When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Bleeding the clutch. I am on the lift pressing the pedal and adding more brake fluid as my friend opens the bleeder valve.
I got some help from my friend figuring out the fuse box inconsistencies. I think I left the relays in the wrong order when I last was checking on the fuel pump by switching the relays. It was back feeding from the Miata stock harness and it won’t shut off with the key.
[QUOTE=overthetop;1655446]
Until this now, I used an electric winch to move the car out off my friend’s garage. On Monday, I drove it out of the garage to the parking spot.
I'm looking to route the harness on the inside of my firewall under the HVAC and I'd really appreciate a picture or link if anyone could suggest.
Thanks
I had figure how to route the harness behind the HVAC. With some help shifting the wire, my friend found another way to make them fit. Finally, after four and half years the dashboard is out of my garage and back where it belongs!
The high pressure line will rub on the powersteering pulley, so I need to get another. I tried to get one locally but could not find one. I decided to make one. I used another fitting and increased the straight hardline section. It needed ti be straight, so I used a brace for the weld.
The clearance is now fine. The other end attaches to the rack with another fitting. The low pressure is also attached. Its not shown and it was much easier to put together. It needed a straight hardline past the pump pulley.
[img alt="This was the regulator I got from the a company in Florida. The lower fitting expands whenthe pump is pressurized. As you can imagine, if the lower lower line has any
movement the fitting would not be tight. "]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/2000x1980/img_1400_51c3bace59f5e02e1bf70a85a8493366c5148c26. jpeg[/img] This was the regulator I got from the a company in Florida. The lower fitting expands whenthe pump is pressurized. As you can imagine, if the lower lower line has any movement the fitting would not be tight. The company sent me the wrong fitting for the return line by the time I got the 5/16 fitting installed, I didn’t remember which was out vs in. My friend saved the day and I thought it good until I saw it when it pressurized. I don’t know who would want this in their car. This is the new one. The lower fitting will not leak.
Nice man, way to go. I can't wait to see some videos when it's ripping finally. Been a long haul but should be worth it.
Yes. 5 years of gathering up tools, supplies, putting them in my car, and driving to my friend’s garage and taking out what I need to do the day’s work, pushing the car onto a lift and then get as much done as I can in a day. Take it off the lift push or winch it out of the garage and then drive back home.
It needs water temperature gauge, tachometer, some wires attached with the dash then the get the engine matched to the sensors. It idles extremely rich and the plugs were getting black. I cleaned off three and left one as a reference.
I bolted the dash to the transmission tunnel. Ordinary, this would be no big deal. When I made the tunnel wider for the GM transmission, also got slightly higher. I couldn’t see this and it was a long day, prying it into position to accommodate that little change.
Last edited by overthetop; Jul 18, 2025 at 10:11 AM.
The flywheel has to be accessed to install a locking tool, so I can install the vibration damper/crankshaft pulley. With the starter out of the way, the tool will keep the flywheel from turning. The tool had to ground slightly to fit because the steel bellhousing is slightly narrower than the factory aluminum style.
5 pin GM MAF Sensor was getting heat soaked and giving a high reading from the radiator. I’m using an additional Air Inlet Temperature sensor for accurate reading. The purple and tan wires will go to the new sensor.
This is the factory Miata clip going the passenger side fan. The orange clip needs to be removed to access the wires. Pulling the orange tab holds the wires. Pressing on the white retainers snd inserting small metal pin will allow the wires to be pulled put of the backside of the connector. Here, I’ve loosened 2 wires and pulled one slightly out and the other all the way out of the connector.