So what you're saying is the 1.6 makes higher power at higher revs? One could even go on to say the 1.6 is more rev happy :giggle:
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10 versus 12 psi should be ignored. 1.6 FTW if you use more boost. Or 1.8 FTW if you use more boost. Or maybe it's more boost FTW.
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Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1521176)
Actually, I finished college and bought a house and have some expendable income. I have spent the last 3 years watching for good deals on 1.8s that are local. I am not spending $800 on a motor that I am going to need to refresh before I even drop it in (cheapest I found was a VVT at a junk yard for $650, turned out it had rod knock). All the 1.8s and good miatas have been eaten up by the drift kids in this area.
As far as why bother with the refresh, the 1.6 in my car is getting long in the tooth. Been semi trying to kill it for 4 years now. High timing advance N/A on 87, track days, autocross, all kinds of things like that. Then supercharged for 2 years, again, high timing advance, never checked it even with det cans. Now it's turbo abd making 190 to the wheels. Compression is getting low, have some blow by, main seal is shot and the crank sprocket is welded on (done by PO). It's time for a new engine. As far as dropping money, $240 for rods, gaskets, rings, maybe bearings, then a dingle berry hone and some valve lapping compound. Figure $500-600 all in for a freshish engine ready for everything a TD04-13T can throw at it. |
Alright, taxes are finally done, time to wait for the money. Return is a little sadder than I thought it'd be, so I'll be ordering everything but the Kraken kit, IC, and piping once it all comes back.
Things to be ordered: Speeduino PnP Supermiata sprung four puck clutch kit Supermiata Radiator (Unless there are comparable options for less money, still a bit of research to do.) Supermiata coolant reroute AEM wideband Low Boost Wastegate (Stock EFR wastegate is "medium boost," and doesn't crack open until 8.8psi) Boost Gauge GM IAT sensor 323GTX PCV valve NGK 4644 plugs 3D printer VTPS bracket and Kia VTPS Please feel free to offer feedback on any of the selected parts! This way I can at least get the car back to a hoonable state for mountain driving as the weather warms up, and for Autocross which is starting up soon while I save for a couple more months for the remaining ~$1200 worth of boosty parts. Clutch is slipping right now, not ideal for powering out of corners. Anyway, here's a fun pic of the car in its pre-spoiler form on the Tail of the Dragon on Cinco de Mayo (note the sombrero) with a whole bunch of my buddies in tow. We do a weekend at the dragon and surrounding roads every spring, it's a blast. This was the first recon pass, otherwise they'd be eating my dust! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e113174791.jpg |
You should also plan on budgeting for some real, non-pool-noodle roll bar padding.
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Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1523456)
You should also plan on budgeting for some real, non-pool-noodle roll bar padding.
To be fair, it is rollbar padding, not a pool noodle, but the super hard, high density rollbar padding meant for helmet impacts isn't gonna do much for me on the street, unless I'm misunderstanding something. I would like to get one of the nice, formed ones from Hard Dog at some point, though. I'll also likely be doing a set of sparco sprints shortly which IIRC should cover my head pretty well. |
Cheap, proper density, and non-flammable. ~$25
https://pitstopusa.com/i-5067431-all...ing-black.html BTW, the higher density is what you want for head or helmets. Low density compresses too easily in a hard impact and will crack your egg when you hit the pole. |
I'm running the hard dog "foam" on my rollbar. I have no doubt that thing will split my noggin' open with light bump from behind. Is that stuff really supposed to be that rock hard? I figured it should be at least a tiny bit less dense than the steel it is resting on.
hell, this stuff "comes in 7 pretty colors" and it IS a pool noodle: |
Dual durometer foam
This is what I run on any street driven cars. Sfi padding like you want below and a softer upper portion. And yes, rollbar padding is supposed to be that hard because you're not supposed to hit it with your bare head. It's meant to be hit with a helmet. |
The supermiata radiator is great no doubt. But I got a used MS2 for that price.
I hate to steer someone away from quality product but it's far from "cheapest I ever did see". Better than stock radiators can be had for less than $200... |
Originally Posted by Scaxx
(Post 1523526)
Dual durometer foam
This is what I run on any street driven cars. Sfi padding like you want below and a softer upper portion. And yes, rollbar padding is supposed to be that hard because you're not supposed to hit it with your bare head. It's meant to be hit with a helmet.
Originally Posted by 90LowNSlo
(Post 1523562)
The supermiata radiator is great no doubt. But I got a used MS2 for that price.
I hate to steer someone away from quality product but it's far from "cheapest I ever did see". Better than stock radiators can be had for less than $200... Edit: please do tell me more about these cheaper radiators you speak of. |
That's what I have. It's a decent unit/brand. Decent. It's better than stock but definitely not better than the big name brand ones. I picked it because I'm on a budget also and several other members here run it. |
Originally Posted by 90LowNSlo
(Post 1523711)
https://www.amazon.com/HPR160-Alumin...a+radiator+opl
That's what I have. It's a decent unit/brand. Decent. It's better than stock but definitely not better than the big name brand ones. I picked it because I'm on a budget also and several other members here run it. |
I would recommend it on something more needed, hood vents are... well, not useless but definitely optional. For the money you could nearly get some injectors...
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Originally Posted by 90LowNSlo
(Post 1523992)
I would recommend it on something more needed, hood vents are... well, not useless but definitely optional. For the money you could nearly get some injectors...
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That cheap radiator will not sufficiently cool a turbocharged car on a track. Anyone who says otherwise isn't tracking their car. This is why options like the supermiata or trackspeed radiators exist. Otherwise everyone would be running cheap radiators.
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Originally Posted by Romba
(Post 1523993)
I do plan to track this car once it's thoroughly shaken down with autocrosses, so I'm thinking hood vents will be a good thing to have.
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Originally Posted by karter74
(Post 1524005)
That cheap radiator will not sufficiently cool a turbocharged car on a track. Anyone who says otherwise isn't tracking their car. This is why options like the supermiata or trackspeed radiators exist. Otherwise everyone would be running cheap radiators.
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That Amazon radiator looks like a Mishimoto with slightly shittier welds. Mishimoto's factory offered their radiator to me without their logo for roughly $65/ea last year. It's hardly better than a stock auto radiator.
If you plan to track the car, there are some things you don't get to cheap out on, even at the beginning. Cooling is one of them. |
I didn't see anything about the car being tracked... So yeah, go nuts on cooling if you want it to last. You'll probably need to upgrade the brakes too.
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