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ChrisLol's Sunburst Build Thread (Should have gone 1.8 from the start)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea32612cff.jpg
I'll be starting with a stock 1992 SBY example. I plan to turn it into a fun little streetable go-kart with occasional track-day use in mind. I've never built a car this way. For me, it's always been about driving the car, not working on it. So I've done bolt-ons and suspension work but nothing really complicated or time consuming. However, a recent job change prompted me to want to give this turbo thing a shot. I chose the NA Miata because it fits the go-kart style handling I'm looking for and the price point and budget friendly parts accessibility factors into the decision as well. Finally, I decided to stick with the 1.6 because, well, because I already have it and it's in really good shape. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First step: Engine Management! So since I could pass this off as a training exercise / R&D project I decided to make a plug-and-play "patch" harness to adapt the factory ECU connectors to the New Haltech Elite 750. It's ugly but the solder joints are solid and it works perfect. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4189455d01.jpg However, It turns out that there can be no such thing as plug-and-play with the Miata. Just to get things going, I had to ditch the stock TPS in favor of a full-sweep sensor. That required fabricating a mounting plate for the full-sweep using the factory sensor base plate sans all of the original guts. The MAF also had to go but in order to disable that I also had to jump the fuel pump circuit that for whatever reason runs through the MAF. Then I had to rework the existing wiring so I could keep using the factory air temp sensor. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7e6886bbf.jpg After a couple days of installation, figuring out problems, and tuning the "Banana Miata" put down 89rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics dyno in factory trim. At this point, the MAF is still in place but the flap door is rigged to stay fully-open since I'm using the ECU on-board MAP for load sensing. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4e9ec5fb32.jpg This will be my baseline. The first "stage" of this build will use a Kinugawa TD04L-15T with a 0.3bar(~5psi) wastegate spring and no boost control. The goal is 140 rwhp on 93 octane pump gas. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I will update this thread as I compile parts and finish other side upgrades along the way! |
Reminds me of my build. Im running a TD04-13T. Interested to see how this goes.
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Last week's project was a coolant re-route using Hawley Performance's coolant re-route spacer kit!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0b98af869c.jpg Replaced the factory coolant temp sensor with a GM coolant temp sensor because the factory would not fit. Had to lengthen the wiring as well. This whole job is a PITA with the engine in the car. Many curses were said. Protip: adhere the spacer, water neck and all gaskets together with coolant sealant and let dry before attempting installation. You will thank me later. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ff81e2aff7.jpg Removed the factory air intake tubing to make room for the coolant re-route hose. Cobbled together a short ram intake for temporary use. Surprisingly, air intake temps are only 5º higher than factory air intake temps. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b7c13cb485.jpg Much cleaner! Other factory items that were binned during this period: - A/C lines, reciever drier and condenser removed to make way for intercooler - Evap emissions canister removed - Idle air valve and coolant hoses removed/rerouted - Front grille removed |
I've been busy.
- Installed RX-7 "red-top" 440cc injectors and wired injector outputs 3&4 to Cyls 3&4 to allow for sequential fueling. (The RX7 Injectors would not idle well on semi-sequential because of the low, split injection times) - Installed a Megan Racing OE-RS procured from the gents @ TH motorsports - Received IL Motorsports bonnet lift struts. (Looks like an OK product, hopefully they are as good as everyone says they are) - Received: Kinugawa TD04, Cast stainless weld els and tees, Stainless T25 and 1.6l Miata exhaust flanges, 2.25" alum. piping kit and used Starion intercooler. Also started installing a Haltech RacePak IQ3 display dash into a spare factory cluster. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33aaea61cb.jpg The faceplate is laser cut black delrin as a temporary tester to check the dimensions. The final piece will be made with textured ABS. I will do a proper write-up on this when finished. Megan Racing did great job on the fitment of the exhaust system. And the sound is great too. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e464d3534c.jpg |
Ballin.
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That air filter is tits.
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RacePak IQ3 Display Install ***PIC HEAVY***
These dashes are very cool pieces. They read values from the CAN Network of most Aftermarket and OEM (OBD-II) ECUs and then display those values on user-configured pages. Specifically I am using a Haltech branded RacePak IQ3 Display dash for this project. I won't bother to cover cluster removal/reinstallation because there are already threads out there for that. I also found disassembly pretty straight forward so there are no pictures to go along with that. I just started removing screws. What I ended up with was a black gauge trim w/clear plastic cover glued on and the white back shell that housed the gauges and lights. The first step was to gut the plastic structure from the white back shell. I found a dremel could do this but made one hell of a mess. I ended up mostly using a razor knife and pliers to score and snap the remaining bits out of the shell. I cut a rectangular hole in the back of the shell to make clearance for the connectors on the back of the RacePak display and I covered all of the un-needed holes with aluminum HVAC tape because it sticks to anything and conforms so well. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e4ac23cf8c.jpg My plan was to sandwich a laser-cut panel between the front black plastic trim and the white back shell so I used a razor-knife to recess the lip of the back shell to give the sandwich panel clearance. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0c6ae1bbea.jpg Here is a shot of test fitting the sandwich panel that was laser cut by a friend using a file I made. Notice the holes for the turn signals. I omitted all of the dummy lights because they are unnecessary. The values displayed on the RacePak like coolant temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure will be programmed with their own warning lights. I left the high-beam indicator out as well because I felt it wouldn't be missed. The RacePak dash can display fuel level, but it would need to read the value from either the Haltech ECU or from a VNet module. I saw this as a waste of money to buy a VNet module just for fuel level, and a waste of an AVI on the ECU so I left the factory fuel level gauge in the cluster. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...410483fa9a.jpg Now black it out! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3657c38e05.jpg I installed a blue LED bulb in the fuel gauge's factory lighting location and built a shield to keep the light from hotspotting: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...579bf78578.jpg Wiring the turn signals. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c7658f0101.jpg Semi assembled product on the bench. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18c0c3c0be.jpg Wire porn on the back of the cluster. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ce56ce5be.jpg As you can see above, I used a DTM12 connector on the cluster to make removal and installation easier on myself. This meant I had to snip the factory cluster connectors and wire some of the OEM wires to the chassis side of the DTM12 connector. This included a factory 12v supply, ground, turn signals, illumination circuit and fuel level signal. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...846c5b0f37.jpg Installed the cluster temporarily to check function and connections. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6e4f1b8e80.jpg Now to work on the front clear cover and black gauge trim. First, I had to submerge the assembly in boiling water to weaken the adhesive used to attach the clear cover to the black trim piece. I found this method in another post and not sure how it works but my hypothesis is that the two plastics expand and contract at different rates and this caused stress fractures where they were joined together and made them much easier to pry apart. Once I had these two pieces apart I put the clear cover to the side and started on the black trim piece. I cut with a dremel until the old gauge circles were gone and then sanded and smoothed until there was a nice edge. I then hit the inside of the trim piece with some flat black to even out the color. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...57c4cbd8a1.jpg The clear plastic on my donor cluster had seen better days and was in need of a polish. So I broke out some 3 stage plastic polish kit and started polishing. I Also added a rubber hole plug to the hole that the tripometer reset stalk used to pass through. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4f318f907.jpg I knew from reading numerous threads that re-adhering this clear plastic to the black plastic couldn't be done with many glues because it would fog so I opted for some 3M "Strip-Calk" This is a butyl rubber adhesive that never really cures but is sag resistant. It is very similar to the black gunk that holds the vapor barriers to the door (the translucent plastic behind your door cards) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d464a738c8.jpg Once I had all of my parts ready to re-assemble I sat down at the table inside. Wearing nitrile gloves and using q-tips and isopropyl alcohol I gave everything a really good clean and dusting before reassembly https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4d6e160657.jpg And here it is installed. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd357f0e0d.jpg During this time, I added three sensors to replace some of the gauges I was losing. - Vehicle Speed - Oil Pressure - Fuel Pressure Since the NA6 uses a cable drive speedometer, it's vehicle speed sensor is in the speedometer. Since I was not using the factory speedometer I needed a way to rob that signal for the ECU to see. What I ended up doing was hacking up the donor cluster's speedometer and mounting it in a project box, then attaching that box to the dash support just behind the cluster. Then I ran wires to the ECU for the signal. However, that does not seem to be working as well as I had hoped. My first and second calibration tries resulted in a PPM of 2million+ and the speed fluctuates quite a bit while driving. I am going to give the NB transmission sensor a try soon and hopefully that turns out better. The pressure sensors were much easier. Fuel pressure is tapped into the fuel supply line and oil pressure is plumbed to the factory oil pressure location next to the oil filter. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5329537b04.jpg |
This makes me extremely happy. This is literally exactly what i had envisioned in my head and im very pleased with how it turned out, looks amazing.
Questions- with the sensors, did the ecu not send the signal from the stock sensors to the iq3? What was the purpose of adding new sensors and relocating them? The grommet that the sensor wires are going through into the firewall, where did you get that from? For the speedo, will the NB sensor you plan to use wire directly to the iq3 or route through the EMS? |
Originally Posted by ChrisLol
(Post 1346419)
First, I had to submerge the assembly in boiling water to weaken the adhesive used to attach the clear cover to the black trim piece.
I found this method in another post and not sure how it works but my hypothesis is that the two plastics expand and contract at different rates and this caused stress fractures where they were joined together and made them much easier to pry apart. |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1360626)
It would be internal shear due to varying expansion rates of dissimilar materials, however both polymers materials wouldn't be drastically different enough to effect the hyper elastic polymeric adhesive. The likely cause is molecular deterioration as long polymer chains experience molecular scission at high temperatures. Basically other constituent materials begin to break down thus weakening the polymeric bonds and reducing integrity.
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Originally Posted by Downmented
(Post 1360579)
This makes me extremely happy. This is literally exactly what i had envisioned in my head and im very pleased with how it turned out, looks amazing.
Questions- with the sensors, did the ecu not send the signal from the stock sensors to the iq3? What was the purpose of adding new sensors and relocating them? The grommet that the sensor wires are going through into the firewall, where did you get that from? For the speedo, will the NB sensor you plan to use wire directly to the iq3 or route through the EMS?
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1360626)
It would be internal shear due to varying expansion rates of dissimilar materials, however both polymers materials wouldn't be drastically different enough to effect the hyper elastic polymeric adhesive. The likely cause is molecular deterioration as long polymer chains experience molecular scission at high temperatures. Basically other constituent materials begin to break down thus weakening the polymeric bonds and reducing integrity.
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Originally Posted by ChrisLol
(Post 1360854)
It turns out my issue is actually a boneheaded mistake on my part. The Elite 750 does not accept a direct input from a reluctor sensor so I will need to get some sort of VR conditioning circuit on there in order to use the signal. The NB sensor would have the same problem as it is VR as well. The VR signal is unusable.
The sensor is a magnetic reed type which outputs an interesting looking signal and may be usable (falling edge) if it wasn't so noisy: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8366b683af.png (The above is without a pull-up on the signal wire) The solution was to pull-up the signal wire and place a VR conditioner inline as well. The end result is usable signal and MPH reading on the RacePak dash! |
This is great, keep up the good work!
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Nice car! Nice work!
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I didn't die. I've been busy.
Finished out the fall by sanding/buffing out the turn signals and the marker lights. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f73f8b2ca.jpg Installed a knockoff R-package lip. Fit was decent. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae594720f2.jpg Bought some 96 M-Edition wheels in rough shape, blasted them, painted them, mounted new tires. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cecac1384b.jpg When winter came, I put the car up on jackstands, plugged in a battery charger and started some big projects. Removed the power steering rack, welded the lines shut, welded the pinion shaft and cut off the internal seal. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3f55cb3c12.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...15df254749.jpg Decided on over-the-radiator intercooler piping. Decided to source a radiator that was shorter instead of cutting the hood or lowering the factory radiator. Purchased a 80s/90s VW Golf GTi dual pass aluminum radiator. Had a friend with a Laser table blast out a custom shroud and mounted two 10" SPAL knockoffs on it. In the process of planning out my radiator mounts now... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9fc2e27beb.jpg Removed the front water neck. Hammered a freeze plug in the hole and capped it with the old water neck base, cut and welded in an aluminum slug to make a solid plate. While I was in there I replaced the front crankshaft seal... twice. It got crooked the first time. Hacked up the water pump inlet and rewelded the cast pipe on the front to re-route the cool water away from the hot turbo area. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a0c3297cc8.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d6abff3d4.jpg Soon... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4df9888bf8.jpg |
Will be very interested to see how the td04l-15t performs against similar 1.6 setups (td04l-13t, td04-15g).
Did you at any point consider the td04h-15t with billet compressor wheel or td04hl-15t with both billet compressor and inconel turbine wheel? |
Originally Posted by MM89
(Post 1393932)
Will be very interested to see how the td04l-15t performs against similar 1.6 setups (td04l-13t, td04-15g).
Did you at any point consider the td04h-15t with billet compressor wheel or td04hl-15t with both billet compressor and inconel turbine wheel? In other news I got the GTI radiator in and plumbed: Brackets made on a laser table, CNC bent and welded myself. (Still learning) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4688d9cb09.jpg Mounted the rad and I/C for a test fit: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f2797dcd69.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a87e7534f3.jpg Fabricated some hardpipes for the hot side and cold side radiator plumbing: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39311c3141.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12ba6c7940.jpg "Burp" Tank fitted and ready to be zapped. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9c17b201fc.jpg The "burp" tank will be the highest point in the system and it has a fill neck and pressure cap since the GTI radiator is not the highest point in the system and does not have a fill neck or cap. The tank feeds into the lower cold side pipe via a 1/2" hose. The top corner of the radiator has had an 1/8" NPT bung welded in as an air bleed point that will bleed air and circulate a small amount of coolant into this tank as well. I should be able to fill into this tank because of the direct feed into the suction side of the system and the air should escape from the radiator via the 1/8" fitting and into this tank. |
Looking great man!
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Very cool stuff, man.
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The NB speedo sensor can be used if you have a VR conditioner inline. Will make life a little easier.
Or you can use the built in VR conditioner that the stock dash has unless you already cut that out. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...6-miata-82518/ |
Originally Posted by ChrisLol
(Post 1394261)
I'm going to be honest, I was slightly uneducated when I chose this turbo. I did so purely because my engine size and intended horsepower goals fit those brackets on the Kinugawa site. It was also T2 flanged and the recirc. valve was built-in which made the decision easier. I was told I was overthinking it by comparing several different turbos so I picked one and pulled the trigger.
Integrated recirc valve, volvo application? Subaru fitment doesn't seem to have this option. |
Cool build! Sub'd.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1394310)
The NB speedo sensor can be used if you have a VR conditioner inline. Will make life a little easier.
Or you can use the built in VR conditioner that the stock dash has unless you already cut that out. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...6-miata-82518/ Over the past couple weeks I had been busy prepping and painting the valve cover and re-assembling everything. Here is an Instagram shot of the engine bay from Friday morning just before the filter went back on: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5fe3c44a98.jpg I also did a few tall man mods (I'm 6'3") to the driver's seat including removing the rear humps and performing a severe foamectomy. My big install this weekend was installing the catch can I fabbed up using an old Haltech CDI case we had laying around. I welded the bottom shut, welded an internal baffle to split the case into two chambers and a punched aluminum screen to keep the stainless pot scrubber from sitting on the bottom of the can and soaking in blowby fluids. I also welded a bung into the bottom with a brass draincock for easy drainage. Scrounged up some old aviation AN hoses for both sides of the can. Took some measurements and had my laser equipped friend blast me out a bracket for the thing. Probably isn't flowing a whole lot right now but once the turbo is on it should do some work with a vacuum on one side. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c2ba4d5c68.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc6d73a78d.jpg Total investment: $20 in fittings and pot scrubbers. I got the fuel system sealed up and got the engine running this weekend. Refilled the coolant and idle tuned the dead times for the 700cc Deatschwerks Injectors I just installed. They idle much better than the 460cc RX-7 Injectors. Confirmed dead times by taking a spirited drive and running the car all through the rev range. AFR's were solid on target the whole time. I am very happy with that purchase. They should feed the turbo fine. Also, I did not have the fan wired in or any radiator ducting installed but temps never went over 200º and I had no leaks. I am very confident in the cooling system. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...129d22d9c1.jpg I have a few more projects to go before she is ready for a shakedown on track:
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Your catch can looks nice. Have you figured out which turbo setup you are going with yet? My only concern is that it may be in the way of the manifold and turbo.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1398630)
Your catch can looks nice. Have you figured out which turbo setup you are going with yet? My only concern is that it may be in the way of the manifold and turbo.
...If it doesn't, I have three boxes full of aviation grade AN hoses to play with to find something that works. I used to work at a small aircraft maintenance shop and they change hoses every 8 years and throw out perfectly good AN hoses. |
Called and spoke with Moti and after a few weeks I had a NB Single Diagonal Rollbar in High Gloss Black delivered to the office.
The first step for rollbar installation is remove all the interior and soft top. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3b4cd837d.jpg Then position the bar and start cutting the hat shelf. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...01f3dec14a.jpg Dressed the bare edges and applied some edge guard so I wouldn't cut myself when tightening the bolts. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ff48a4b0e0.jpg Got the cut right on both sides. Measure twice, cut once! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3631d0a16f.jpg There it is! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fb6e86a282.jpg And some glamour shots after taking it for a quick spin. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...779a8ddb21.jpg Thanks Moti! As promised, I made a color matched logo on the diagonal. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17985f903b.jpg Then into the work trailer for the first track day. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...133fb2dc21.jpg GridLife Track Battle Round 1. Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc454cdc35.jpg I quickly found the limits of the stock suspension and street tires. The car was woefully ill-equipped for any group other than beginner which had a good mix of slow cars and slow drivers. Time for boost, tires and suspension! Here's one at speed in the esses with my passenger waving for the camera: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...065f98342d.jpg |
are haltech making plug and play patch looms now for the elite 750?
Apologies for the thread hijack |
Originally Posted by Neddy
(Post 1407174)
are haltech making plug and play patch looms now for the elite 750?
Apologies for the thread hijack This is a custom loom I made myself. But, we will be releasing an official Elite 550 / Elite 750 patch loom for the NA 1.6 AND 1.8 within the month. 2-plug harnesses only though. (Sorry 3-plug guys.) We already have an patch loom to suit the Elite 1000/1500 for 00-04 cars (Sorry '99 guys) |
Originally Posted by ChrisLol
(Post 1407537)
We already have an patch loom to suit the Elite 1000/1500 for 00-04 cars (Sorry '99 guys) |
Originally Posted by ChrisLol
(Post 1407537)
No worries.
This is a custom loom I made myself. But, we will be releasing an official Elite 550 / Elite 750 patch loom for the NA 1.6 AND 1.8 within the month. 2-plug harnesses only though. (Sorry 3-plug guys.) We already have an patch loom to suit the Elite 1000/1500 for 00-04 cars (Sorry '99 guys) Very nice work BTW, extremely clean car and build! |
Originally Posted by Neddy
(Post 1407695)
Thanks for reply. In a VVT typical track car application what is the practical difference between an Elite 1000 and Elite 1500?
Originally Posted by boileralum
(Post 1407768)
Did you mean 01-05? 00-04 seems a weird range, since 00 is BP4W with a different ECU plug and wiring from the 01-05 cars
Very nice work BTW, extremely clean car and build! But enough about Haltech. Since we don't sponsor this site I don't want to step on any toes. If anyone has any more Haltech questions they can PM me. |
Quick Update:
I'm embarrassed to say I never aligned this car or even inspected the components before getting it out on track... So now aligned and installed some Paco Motorsports eccentric locks with new OEM nuts and bolts. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...befe06bddc.jpg Snagged a set of take-off PWC tires from Tom O Gorman, ordered up some cheapo XXR wheels for track duty. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...264b11886e.jpg Mounted and balanced! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...be8b176a7e.jpg I scored some used V-Maxx Classics from a friend and set them at 12" front and 12.5" rear. Drove on the R-comps to work because I just couldn't help myself. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...51256dc101.jpg That's all for now. My fabricator has set aside some time for my manifold in the coming weeks so the turbo install is finally going to happen and just in time for GridLife Midwest! (Can't complain if they work for free right?) |
So I started this turbo install 2 1/2 weeks out from GridLife thinking that was plenty of time. Ended up dyno'ing and loading into the trailer the Wednesday before we left.
There was quite a thrash for this so I didn't take a ton of pictures of the processes but the major milestones are recorded. Manifold was tacked together a couple weeks prior so there is no pictures of that but I did test fit it in order to tack the t2 flange and test fit/clock the turbo. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9984b1438d.jpg Fabricating lines and test fitting/deciding on routing. I used the handy oil and coolant ports on the 1.6 block for my sources. Talk about convenient! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9338c398ac.jpg In this picture the manifold is now fully welded and all intake piping is complete: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d95f15e63.jpg Another angle: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cba3203969.jpg Another angle: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc8e3a8b16.jpg Yet another angle: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5362a37d0b.jpg Time for a down pipe and B-pipe: Welded and wrapped, everything fit like a glove. I had some great help from my friends on this stuff. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2fb8ee4f80.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9fefab9762.jpg So with confidence I installed everything and started it up! It lit right off but seconds later my low oil pressure warning on the dash started going off and then eventually dropped to NO OIL PRESSURE!!! After several troubleshooting measures we determined the pump wasn't creating any pressure. (Removed the oil filter and cranked and got 0 oil.) My first thought was that the bypass valve was jammed open, I must have sucked up some aluminum shavings from drilling/tapping the pan... That means the motor has to come out. #$@&%*!:vash: So frantically I started ripping and tearing: (GridLife is less than a week away at this point) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d01634f99.jpg The engine was out in roughly 4 hours. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6e4c07439.jpg Dropped the pan (F#$@&%*! windage trays Mazda!) Found I had damaged the oil pickup tube during drilling/tapping and minimal aluminum shavings: :facepalm: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...865c792e14.jpg Thankfully my welding skills are up to this task: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...77fec04c26.jpg Roughly 4 working hours later the motor is back in and everything is re-installed: (Our dyno was currently occupied so I had to wait until Wednesday to tune) :D https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b980c9cb2e.jpg Unfortunately after all of that work it seems I'm going to need to do something about the wastegate. It opens at 5lbs like I wanted it to but the boost just keep climbing and shows no indication of slowing down. Here's a dyno graph of a run that was aborted at ~5600 rpm. We aborted the run because it still made 7 lbs with the wastegate wired open and the BOV disconnected from vacuum and venting constantly... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5940f2a478.jpg Going to start with enlarging and porting the existing wastegate flapper this week. If all else fails It'll get an external gate and weld that to the bottom of the manifold. :burncash: |
Quick update:
Went to GridLife and overboosted on every straight. I kept my foot out of it and still managed to get a few sessions in and have some fun anyways. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5b4704c86a.jpg No pictures of it on track. I couldn't find any. Too many cool cars to worry about pictures of a seemingly stock miata I guess. When we got back I pulled the turbo, ported the wastegate opening and then the turbo would barely make any boost. It turns out I ported the wastegate opening too well and the 5lb spring wasn't enough to keep the exhaust in the housing so the wastegate flapper would blow open as I crossed the 0 psi mark. Instead of clamping the internal gate shut and getting an external gate I decided to buy a couple springs with higher ratings. Finally settled on a 12psi spring that would allow me to make 4 psi. However, that just wasn't enough so I threw a boost control solenoid on it and turned the boost up to 7 psi. It takes about 65% duty cycle to do this though so I'm almost out of spring. I'll need a stronger one when the time comes to increase the boost more. And this is the current state of affairs: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c71fd0c243.jpg We moved to a new building with a bigger, cleaner shop and got a new badass hub-dyno. Also upgraded our old DD dyno controls courtesy of MainLine Dynamometers. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...41ffe7278b.jpg 75hp more than it made stock. It'll do for now. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...302490a51d.jpg With all that sorted I now have a host of non-engine upgrades on the way: Momo MOD.Drift 330mm steering wheel NRG Quick Release and Short hub Sparco PRO2000 Impact 5 point harness Maxxis VR-1 Tires to replace the PWC Slicks. (Wanting to go to Street Mod class with GridLife and need something 200TW) Post again soon! |
You may also want an undertray, idk what your temps look like, but it helped immensely with mine.
Beautiful car and build. I was looking at a turbo from the same people originally. SBY makes me feel fuzzy inside. |
I have a factory undertray and some coroplast panel ducting that keeps air directed into the intercooler and radiator.
With a 195º thermostat the coolant sits at 195º in traffic and ~200º cruising. IAT's hover around 90-100º. On track the coolant gets to be ~215º or so at the end of a session. IAT ~110º |
Oh I see it now in the latest picture.
Great build so far |
What an awesome car!
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Recently hit the track with GridLife at Road Atlanta for the first time and had a blast! The car did a bit of overheating though so searching for solutions for this. Thinking about a couple different mods next including more complete ducting and some hood vents...
Recent mods: Momo MOD.Drift 330mm steering wheel NRG Quick Release and Short hub Sparco PRO2000 Impact 6 point harness Maxxis VR-1 Tires Everything was easy. Except the seat. I ended up needing to do some cutting. But it wasn't low enough so I got carried away with the cutting. Because I cut it so close, I didn't get any pictures of anything except the seat install. Started with this: I had originally removed the rear seat humps in order to get the OEM seat as low as possible. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e056e83592.jpg Cut out the front hump and the CAT hump to get the seat centered on the wheel. But I wasn't as low as I wanted to be. Couldn't pass the broomstick test. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...975de261c2.jpg So I cut more... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd881848ff.jpg And more... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...47fbb7ae1e.jpg And ended up with this ridiculous hole to fill... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...203898445a.jpg So with the help of some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) I ended up with a template: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e07a792bda.jpg The template turned into this sheet metal piece: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2cc582b3ae.jpg Which fit into the hole with some persuasion and clecos: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da28c72cba.jpg Was finally attached with a MIG welder: (My first attempt at MIG, wasn't too bad.) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7115ff82e3.jpg Primed the bare metal, undercoated the bottom and finished the interior with adhesive backed felt sheets: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c96fe4c789.jpg And Viola! Finished 2 days before GridLife South! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...280f07a9a9.jpg GridLife South Paddock: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e535a38db6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...edcbafbf8a.jpg On track sample image courtesy of NVUS Images: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...168667838f.jpg |
So based on my last on-track experience with temperatures being a little high I played with a few options for venting the hood and finally settled on some "Singular Style" NC louvers.
I created a file based on the Singular design but sized for the placement I chose on the NA and had a friend blast a set out for me and bent them accordingly. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f6a9a8adae.jpg Cut a template on my vinyl plotter and I was ready to start cutting: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...280a3ff6a0.jpg Taking a drill/air saw to a perfectly good hood caused me to have a bit of nerves but it was done and it there was no going back: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...16043ee5ad.jpg Both holes now open: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ee68584a4c.jpg Here is a picture of the underside of the hood showing the structure cut out. This is not as flimsy as it may seem but because the IL Motorsport hood struts are so strong It flexes quite a bit if you try to close it by pulling down on the leading edge of the hood. The solution for me was to start closing it by pulling down on the edge of the hood behind the headlights. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da4e49b990.jpg Some paint and some rivets and here we have a finished product: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bb6cc77b3f.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6ed73b8676.jpg I also pulled the intercooler and added some more coroplast panels to complete my radiator ducting. During this process I broke the hood release cable so I pulled the trigger on some Aerocatches as well. Might as well go full racecar now with the hood louvers going in... Removing the stock hood latch gave me a great mounting location for my new horns (These were a christmas gift last year from a loved one concerned people would not see me in my small car) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bcc8af1abd.jpg Loaded up and ready for GridLife Rd5 @ Gingerman Raceway: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...97c2279b35.jpg Glamour shot of NRG goodies, Momo Wheel and Haltech Dash: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea11f2a973.jpg Another on-track sample image courtesy of NVUS Images: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c122c46e49.jpg Now with things finished out for the year I have plans to do a complete engine harness re-wire and use a new Elite 1500 ECU instead. The Elite 1500 is capable of many more motorsport specific features and also supports Drive-By-Wire... More on that later though. |
Great build, and amazing fabrication skills. I'm jealous.
Seeing those shots of the damaged pickup tube sent a shiver down my spine. I was so worried about doing that when I was drilling my oil pan, and took every extreme precaution I could think of to avoid it. |
Originally Posted by Schroedinger
(Post 1446707)
Great build, and amazing fabrication skills. I'm jealous.
Seeing those shots of the damaged pickup tube sent a shiver down my spine. I was so worried about doing that when I was drilling my oil pan, and took every extreme precaution I could think of to avoid it. I've designed all the custom bits myself but DiMartino Fabrication has been great to fill in with his welding skills and we trade his work for me doing vinyl stuff on his drift car so there isn't a whole lot out of pocket for me in the end. He also taught me a great deal so I can weld on my own in a pinch. Without the ECU and IQ3 dash I may have not noticed the oil pressure was gone on first start up until the lifters started sounding funny. It could have been real bad and I'm thankful I went through with the install of all that. |
Great looking car. I saw it at Grid Life. I was there is the loan Miata (grey) in Time Attack group.
For your overheating, I would suggest adding some ducting between the upper core support and your radiator (if you haven't already). With the radiator tilted back for the intercooler piping, a lot of air is by passing the radiator and going else where. You could use some of the cloroplast to make a duct to make sure you get more air through the radiator. The hood vents will drop the under hood temps, but its not going to help much with radiator air flow. |
Originally Posted by Midtenn
(Post 1446887)
Great looking car. I saw it at Grid Life. I was there is the loan Miata (grey) in Time Attack group.
For your overheating, I would suggest adding some ducting between the upper core support and your radiator (if you haven't already). With the radiator tilted back for the intercooler piping, a lot of air is by passing the radiator and going else where. You could use some of the cloroplast to make a duct to make sure you get more air through the radiator. The hood vents will drop the under hood temps, but its not going to help much with radiator air flow. Temps were great at Rd 5. I think max was 215º or so. It also helped that Rd5 was only like 75º ambient. |
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The astute among you will notice in the picture above that the wiring is non-OEM, the throttle body looks weird and many other things are... simplified.
Well here starts my breakdown on the project I overtook this past winter. My goals:
I removed the dash and started cutting into the OEM harness. Before I knew it I had a situation that would cause a heart attack in most automotive enthusiasts: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...098d7333b7.jpg The process I used was pretty straight forward. With the help of an OEM wiring diagram I would identify plugs/connectors that I no longer needed, I would then trace them all the way back to their origin and prune them from the harness. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4de8682b6e.jpg And the end result was a chassis harness that was pruned down significantly. I even removed the OEM engine fuse box and moved the remaining fuses I needed into the cabin. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f480893e07.jpg This is a good shot that shows you just how much was removed from the harness. That circular hanger/clip was completely full with OEM wiring before pruning. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...055dcae072.jpg Here is a pic of the passenger side of the engine bay after pruning and removing the OEM fusebox. Clean. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b0b82c5d15.jpg Here is a close-up of the new fuse panel I made to hold the few fuses from the OEM fuse box and move them inside. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a9fc4e4cf0.jpg The next job on the list was to replace all of the engine wiring that I had just removed with new wiring. The new ECU would be a Haltech Elite 1500 with DBW capability. I didn't take any pictures of this process. What I did was take some measurements, test-fitted the harness a few times until I had all the lengths I wanted, then I built the majority of the harness off the car, on the bench. Below is the finished interior harness. This includes the ECU, DBW pedal, brake, clutch, rolling anti-lag and VSS connections. The coiled bundle of wires with the mil-spec connector is the engine bay harness in raw form. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3a498eb670.jpg I've mounted everything to the glovebox and the ECU is accessible inside the glovebox. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f1843e58f.jpg And here is the new ECU interior harness installed along side the OEM chassis wiring. The Haltech fusebox holds the fuses and relays for the ECU, Ignition, Injection, Cooling Fan, Fuel Pump and Wideband Heater Circuit. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f8b5f9df11.jpg Installing the Toyota coils is pretty straight forward. I chose the Trackspeed coil mount but ended up having to replace the studs with something stronger and metric because I snapped one of the puny studs it came with. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ef3f24239.jpg Moving on to the DBW install. First I wanted to get the pedal situated. I used a Cadillac pedal and everything was pretty straight forward. Pedal seems like it'll be a good fit. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...19e5365a8a.jpg A little cutting... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c2005ef7e4.jpg ... to remove the factory pedal mount https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fdd47dc245.jpg A little welding... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a0c388daca.jpg ...to add the new pedal bracket in place. (After test fitting this into the car I removed it and finalized the welds. Everything you see here is just tack welds.) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d7a1c2546.jpg The next order of business was the DBW throttle body. I knew I wanted something of similar size to my current throttle body and I settled on an Audi/VW unit as it was roughly the same size (58mm) and I could purchase a mounting flange for it rather inexpensively. Since I had to cut the OEM flange off the intake manifold I was going to have to do some welding to seal up the old coolant activated air valve passages. However, once I started down that rabbit hole shit got out of hand REALFAST. LOL Started by attacking the air valve mounting boss with a step drill. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f343bc72d.jpg Decided the best way to patch everything was to cut a big rectangle hole for a simple piping patch. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4c289de4d.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b3b8ff2cc7.jpg Started hacking up the air valve passage and then I got carried away with the air grinder and a dual flute bit... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ee05579417.jpg Started sanding off all the rough bits and welding/grinding off any of the coolant and vacuum ports I didn't need. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2584e94b4e.jpg Half-assed polished the inside of the plenum. Here's a view from the new 1/8" NPT port on the back of the plenum... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...74bd2b9aaf.jpg DiMartino fab welded the patch in for me. (I can't take credit for these fat dabs) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4d46d87456.jpg Then blasted it with a coat of wrinkle grey. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a602806508.jpg Finished product in the engine bay was shown in previous post... |
You're 4 hours from me, we need to get together (mostly for my own selfish reasons). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7de3110595.gif
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Yeah seriously. Let's be friends! I think we have mutual friends in Tuner Tools, actually...
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Do you have a part# or what chassis and year the throttle body and pedal came from?
Edit, I think the the TB#06A133O62D / 06A133O62Q / 028O75006 and the Pdeal#10379038 |
Originally Posted by 90LowNSlo
(Post 1483792)
You're 4 hours from me, we need to get together (mostly for my own selfish reasons). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7de3110595.gif
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1483831)
Yeah seriously. Let's be friends! I think we have mutual friends in Tuner Tools, actually...
Originally Posted by skylinecalvin
(Post 1483953)
Do you have a part# or what chassis and year the throttle body and pedal came from?
Edit, I think the the TB#06A133O62D / 06A133O62Q / 028O75006 and the Pdeal#10379038 |
Also over the winter I completed a few small projects to make the car more competitive.
My Sparco Pro2000 from last year was horribly out-of-date (15 years old) so I either needed to brace it or replace it. I chose to replace it. Murray motorsport shipped this Sparco Grid II across the Atlantic for less than I could ship one domestically and the price was insanely cheap. With a small amount of trimming on the left shoulder bolster it fit right in my lowered seat pan. I made some friends at NRG last year and ended up with NRG's new FIA spec harnesses as well so everything would be in-date and good for 5 years. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5b8855916.jpg Something I never mentioned before was that, practically since I've owned the car, it has had ABS door cards installed instead of the OEM stuff. They cleaned everything up very nice when I deleted the armrest and speakers/stereo. Until now I had not really finished that project so I decided to do that this spring also. Here's the finished product: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...166bfa2c6e.jpg Here is a list of the parts I ordered from McMaster-Carr to complete this project. 1 - 3510T83 - Nylon Webbing, High-Strength, 1-1/2" Wide x 5 Feet Long, Yellow 2 - 13155A24 - Dull Plastic Recessed Pull Handle with Unthreaded Through Holes, 1.75" Diameter Cutout 3 - 92715A620 - Drilling Screws for Joining Fabric to Metal, Black Zinc-Plated Steel, Number 8 Size, 3/4" Long, Packs of 25 4 - 90183A311 - Washer for Blind Rivets, 18-8 Stainless Steel, for 1/8" Rivet Diameter, 0.134" ID, 0.375" OD, Packs of 100 5 - 97447A220 - Aluminum Blind Rivets with Aluminum Mandrel, Flush-Mount, 1/8" Diameter, for 0.1880"-0.25" Material Thickness, Packs of 250 My door panels are 1/8" ABS and were made by a gentleman in Akron? named Jim Marazita. Jim@MGIsigns.com I found him via some other Miata forum thanks to random google searches. I specified with him that I was deleting the speakers and door handle and only needed the interior door latch and window crank holes and he sent me some door cards made to my specification. Top notch work, everything fit great. I scored some AWR Racing motor mounts for a 1.6 from a friend and installed those. I must say, since this is quickly becoming a race car, I am very happy with these mounts. With that said, the NVH increase is *noticeable* and I would not put them on a daily'd street car. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e38aaff82a.jpg The same friend that sold me the mounts also sold me a wrecked 1996 M-Edition as a parts car. I only wanted it for the Torsena nd ended up recouping almost all of my investment parting out everything else from the car. I swapped the torsen into my car at work on the lift and then did a quick clutch dump to verify the diff was working... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...46f3db7997.jpg I made a friend at Powerstop and ended up with a whole 1.8L front end brake setup using their "Track Day" compound pads which I have been very happy with so far. I sourced 1.8L rear brake setup from the parts car so now the car is fully outfitted with 1.8L brakes. Added ARP extended studs because why not? Also added ELBJ hiding behind the rotors now. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...baa907c639.jpg Made another friend at BC Racing NA and ended up swapping the tired, old FM V-Maxx setup out for a fresh set of DS Series (Digressive) Coilovers from BC Racing with prototype extended top hats courtesy of some measurements I provided. These new top hats should be going on their production kits moving forward now that we've verified fitment. We still might play with damper length. At my ride height I do have some room to add to it. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...06a7990a58.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c7871ba120.jpg And finally pulled the trigger on a Treasure Coast Miata lightweight hardtop which is going to be wrapped in gloss black vinyl. Shoutout to Paco Moto :P https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...96a3ac1688.jpg Sold my 2.5" Exhaust and welded up a full custom 3" exhaust with V-Bands and a Vibrant Race Muffler: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9c15e5e6e1.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0d12208b7.jpg Also, I cut a hole in the trunk floor and patched it with a panel. Because my OCD dictates the rear end must be symmetrical without the bumper on. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ab05dcc08.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da110421df.jpg Next up will be Aero mods. Stay tuned! |
Really impressive stuff man, loved looking through your thread. Super clean on everything you do.
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I don't know how things are getting out of hand so fast... This thing was a streetable car just months ago. LOL
Next up: AERO I started out with a Nine Lives Racing 64" DIY element and a rough idea about how I wanted to do this. The mounts had to be swan neck because I like to overcomplicate things. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9751ca921b.jpg I wasn't a fan of the extrusion slots for the screws to hold the endplates on so I fabbed some end caps and put rivnuts in them. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9724cf40d8.jpg I bought a 4' x 1' slab of 3/8" aluminum plate and used a bandsaw to cut the rough shape. Then, using a handheld router, I trued up the straight edges. Then round the leading edge and chamfered the trailing edge. That's right, just a standard household wood router and wood bits took on the aluminum like a champ. The key was shallow, quick passes and TONS of lube. I actually used paste wax because it made less of a mess. So here we are jigging everything up to the car to make sure I like the positioning. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...448c5ae10a.jpg Here I've made a wood jig to hold the two uprights perfectly parallel to each other. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cd879bc26c.jpg In the void between the upright and the rain rail I shoved in a bunch of epoxy putty and let it harden. This was how I created my spacers to keep the uprights... upright. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b6d190e0d.jpg Here we have DiMartino Fab doing his thing adding the mounts to the wing. Special thanks goes out to Paco Motorsports for cutting the mounts and endplates for me based on my CAD files. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3eb4b37653.jpg Then I just had to trim the trunk to fit the uprights and I was golden. My files are my favorite tools. Rough cut and then file to fit is my M.O. and it's why this shit takes forever. LOL https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...568e690504.jpg |
Next Up: Air dam and splitter
First step: Cut bumper so there is no going back: :eek: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f7ef25cc48.jpg Next step: Make template using cardboard, trace cardboard cutout onto scrap mdf, rout and sand to perfection. Take a picture to visualize completed product for motivation. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...05025eee46.jpg Take MDF template and trace onto 1/2" birch plywood. Rough cut and rout/sand to finish. Hoist splitter into position for more motivation. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b311609545.jpg Buy 12ft of square tube and cut it to pieces in a fashion such as this: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ace753c097.jpg Weld all the tubing together, weld tabs on the bumper bar and mount the splitter to the frame. Test fit and mark where garden edging should go. Screw garden edging to splitter and cut off exposed screw length on bottom of splitter. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e1c4a14ac.jpg Finished splitter and frame: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5781c14986.jpg Add paint to splitter and dibond to frame to act as ducting: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...747e59f257.jpg Splitter removed from car: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1d590b842e.jpg Ducting and splitter detail shot: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c1d2c0c6f1.jpg Finished product with air dam installed: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4b9ec175e6.jpg |
I wish I could show you some of the crazy stuff we make at work using the file to fit method. I do optics stuff and for prototyping, regularly had to make things to 0.05mm tolerances using a hand jig saw, files, and a $100 drill press used like a turret lathe....
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Dude wtf, this is amazing. How did you mount the ABS to the garden edging and also to the miata bumper?
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
(Post 1489663)
Dude wtf, this is amazing. How did you mount the ABS to the garden edging and also to the miata bumper?
The HDPE just sits against the garden edging and that keeps the air from pushing the HDPE back. The HDPE sheet is mounted to the bumper with 3/16 wide area rivets and backing washers. |
Why didn't you just get the NLR swan kit? I assume it wasn't released yet right?
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The NLR "Schwan" kit was JUST released. I've had the wing done for a month now. I sent Johnny the first pic of the swan mount and he told me about the "Schwan" kit then but I had already bought the 3/8" plate. Oh well.
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A couple pictures for posterity. It's been fun but it's time to go 1.8L.
Needing to step down to a Naturally Aspirated engine for classing reasons and the VVT makes the most sense. My entire 1.6L turbo setup and Engine are going up for sale. PM if interested. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d3bfb94ae.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d958cd42ef.jpg |
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