Cordycord's epic tube frame build
03-28-2014, 04:14 PM
#943
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How to reset your odometer to zero
Yep, I said it. After this post I will be showing people how to build their own crack pipe.
Seriously, the gauge panel on my "new" Catfish read 161k miles, even though the engine had about 60k, and the rest of the car was new or refurbished. Since I needed to check the DMV box "mileage on odometer is not correct" anyway, I might as well roll that sucker back!
Note: If you roll your odometer back and don't note it with the DMV, not only is it illegal but Karma WILL find you and smack you upside the mouth.
The main reason for the roll-back was not the mileage, but that I'm putting on a new set of Revlimiter.net gauges. These are a modified version of the "Warbird" style, with red/white color, Catfish logo and the old VDO style red line sweep in red instead of green/white. Edit--I am very extremely happy with the gauges as well as with Adam's service. Worth the $$.
To the instructions:
In case the pictures aren't clear, the odometer tumbler needs to be removed from the assembly by bending the tabs that hold the "stopper bar" and the axle of the odometer. Hold the cage on the outside of the odo with your left hand, leaving the mile digit and cage free to rotate. Turn the odo with by the gear. When mile digit hits zero:
a) release the next cage over to the left (ten digit)
b) reverse the gear a half rotation (turn it the other way)
c) hold the cages again and watch the 10 mile barrel reset
repeat for each individual barrel.
PIC 1 what needs to be removed
PIC 2 odometer barrel
PIC 3 bend these pins--you'll know when you see them
PIC 4 this is the "stopper bar".
PIC 5 COOL!
After I reassembled everything and located the "cage fingers" into a line, I held everything together with some painter's tape. I then reinstalled the barrell and located the cage fingers so they were captured again by the stopper bar.
I'm hoping Adam at Revlimiter.net will make a proper post of this procedure, complete with excellent photography and his signature mini-helper.
Seriously, the gauge panel on my "new" Catfish read 161k miles, even though the engine had about 60k, and the rest of the car was new or refurbished. Since I needed to check the DMV box "mileage on odometer is not correct" anyway, I might as well roll that sucker back!
Note: If you roll your odometer back and don't note it with the DMV, not only is it illegal but Karma WILL find you and smack you upside the mouth.
The main reason for the roll-back was not the mileage, but that I'm putting on a new set of Revlimiter.net gauges. These are a modified version of the "Warbird" style, with red/white color, Catfish logo and the old VDO style red line sweep in red instead of green/white. Edit--I am very extremely happy with the gauges as well as with Adam's service. Worth the $$.
To the instructions:
In case the pictures aren't clear, the odometer tumbler needs to be removed from the assembly by bending the tabs that hold the "stopper bar" and the axle of the odometer. Hold the cage on the outside of the odo with your left hand, leaving the mile digit and cage free to rotate. Turn the odo with by the gear. When mile digit hits zero:
a) release the next cage over to the left (ten digit)
b) reverse the gear a half rotation (turn it the other way)
c) hold the cages again and watch the 10 mile barrel reset
repeat for each individual barrel.
PIC 1 what needs to be removed
PIC 2 odometer barrel
PIC 3 bend these pins--you'll know when you see them
PIC 4 this is the "stopper bar".
PIC 5 COOL!
After I reassembled everything and located the "cage fingers" into a line, I held everything together with some painter's tape. I then reinstalled the barrell and located the cage fingers so they were captured again by the stopper bar.
I'm hoping Adam at Revlimiter.net will make a proper post of this procedure, complete with excellent photography and his signature mini-helper.
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03-29-2014, 02:29 PM
#946
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I've never done it before and Adam at Revlimiter said he's tried the "force it" method, with not so good results. Of course if you bend the tabs that hold the axle or stopper bar too far, you get the same bad result.
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04-18-2014, 10:32 AM
#953
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Aliso Viejo
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LPI Racing: About Us, Livermore Performance, Monty, Stephen, Bill, Tammy - LPI Racing
I've run SCCA, and was the 2010 SFR ITE champion in an LS powered RX7 that weighed 2480. (LS7, dog box, 8.8, etc...)
The car turns under 1:50 at Thunderhill and about a 1:30 at LS.
Here is a picture
Would you like to make any more wrong assumptions?
That being said, I really do like the new Catfish. It's a perfect design for a track car. Easy to work on, very light. I'm house hunting in So Cal right now, and when that's done I thinking this will be my next project.
Bill Lackey
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04-18-2014, 11:53 AM
#957
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This is me
LPI Racing: About Us, Livermore Performance, Monty, Stephen, Bill, Tammy - LPI Racing
I've run SCCA, and was the 2010 SFR ITE champion in an LS powered RX7 that weighed 2480. (LS7, dog box, 8.8, etc...)
The car turns under 1:50 at Thunderhill and about a 1:30 at LS.
Here is a picture
Would you like to make any more wrong assumptions?
That being said, I really do like the new Catfish. It's a perfect design for a track car. Easy to work on, very light. I'm house hunting in So Cal right now, and when that's done I thinking this will be my next project.
Bill Lackey
LPI Racing: About Us, Livermore Performance, Monty, Stephen, Bill, Tammy - LPI Racing
I've run SCCA, and was the 2010 SFR ITE champion in an LS powered RX7 that weighed 2480. (LS7, dog box, 8.8, etc...)
The car turns under 1:50 at Thunderhill and about a 1:30 at LS.
Here is a picture
Would you like to make any more wrong assumptions?
That being said, I really do like the new Catfish. It's a perfect design for a track car. Easy to work on, very light. I'm house hunting in So Cal right now, and when that's done I thinking this will be my next project.
Bill Lackey
Love those CCW rims as well. That car is beautifully set up, and has what the Catfish needs for top times at T-Hill; splitter, wing, horsepower. We've got a flat bottom on the car that does create real downforce, and those low track times do need it.
When the test mule Catfish was up there--even with crap suspension and 135hp--it was hilarious to watch people think because "it's a Miata" that they could match braking points. More than one car following it ended up in the weeds.
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04-18-2014, 12:20 PM
#959
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NASA cage
We just finished the drawing for a safety cage for NASA use, and can't wait to get a fully prepped car into the NASA ST class.
If you look closely you can see a custom K-member for a V-8 on this rendering...
There should be at least 2-3 Turbo Catfish at the September Miata's at MRLS in September, and rides will be given.
You'll get to see if mere turbo power is sufficient to scoot you around a race track.
If you look closely you can see a custom K-member for a V-8 on this rendering...
There should be at least 2-3 Turbo Catfish at the September Miata's at MRLS in September, and rides will be given.
You'll get to see if mere turbo power is sufficient to scoot you around a race track.
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04-18-2014, 12:38 PM
#960
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I'm running 20lbs in my tires at the track because the car is so light. Any tire choice should wear like iron. Also, sidewall stiffness and height is important when running these low pressures, as you don't want to introduce too much slip angle.
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