Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

Will commence balling.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I'd legit get whatever extras they wanted to me to pay for. You legit are getting a brand new or reman turbo straight from the manufacturer for whatever you paid for a used one. I'm guessing there's a new warranty on this one too?

You dun good kid.

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

I'll have to check if this renews the warranty. Considering my goal is to max it out, maybe I'll need it lol

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

All this turbo fuss was basically a sign that you should have built your engine in the added time. Jeez.

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

All of the added time, none of the monies

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

So I have a FM2 I was going to use, but now that I have looked at my time frame I don't think I will be building my motor as soon as I thought. Would I be happier as a 100% street car with a 949 organic or FM1? Or don't worry about it.

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

Anyone ever been tempted? https://losangeles.craigslist.org/la...120368323.html


Single GT35 turbo, ~400whp with a bulletproof drivetrain and great driving characteristics? Idk, maybe a pipe dream but, still.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I've seen everyone here recommend picking between those two clutches. I'd just look up what folks say about drive-ability and take it from there. Honestly, I bet you can't go wrong with either.

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I have an FM1 in my NB and other than holding the torque I honestly don't think there's much diff from stock re pedal pressure or driveability. At my boost level (14lb/235hp) it's been pretty bulletproof and my wife doesn't complain (on the very rare days she will actually drive the car). I can't comment on diff between FM1/FM2 but disk is the same. Pressure plate is different.

No experience with 949 organic.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

I decided to go with the FM2 because I launch my car so much and​ I wanted the level 2 throwout bearing, which made the cost difference negligible. It is a stiff clutch but my wife can drive without a problem. I must admit that my Nissan pickup clutch almost feels like the slave cylinder failed after driving the Miata for a while.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Oh! Just realized you said you had an FM2 already.... why not just use it!?

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

Because I love to overthink things, this has more impacts than choosing a clutch.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Are we twins?

miataman04

iTrader: (1)

I've got an ACT now, I really like it but then again I wanted over kill. My last miata made 192hp to the wheels and had a FM stage 1 and I thought it was weak. The pedal was lighter than stock, though I didn't make enough torque to test it, I never had convenience in it. Just make sure the clutch is good for whatever torque is your goal. One time I got an exedy stage one then started adding power mods and ended up with more tq then the clutch could handle. Cutting corners to save money always gets me.

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

Okay, think I will just stick with my FM2 and deal with it. I drove a ~400whp evo X and he had some sort of 6 puck and I am NOT about that life.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

pedal lighter than stock with clamping force higher than stock is what makes a good clutch, a good clutch.

ACT feels like crap. I've tried all of em. They all sucked, felt like leg day at gym every time.

keep fm2. stop coming up with useless worries.

Lexzar

iTrader: (2)

Yes sir. Sorry sir.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

I am a special case, but I had nothing but issues with my flyin miata clutches and tob/release bearings. I had one bearing (partial) failure and the replacement they sent (a level 2) was defective.

It is pretty well documented that the 949 clutches are much higher build quality.

Again, most people are fine with most vendor's parts, but I just always get the defective parts.Just my experience.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

ehh, I'm not sure I would want less pedal than stock. Especially after driving any other car I always think the hydros failed while it was sitting.