Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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-   -   EFR'ed alpine thrill-seeker (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/efred-alpine-thrill-seeker-91807/)

AlwaysBroken 05-28-2018 09:06 PM

Oh yeah, you added back the stock tray, also neato. I thoroughly approve.

Eunos91 06-17-2018 02:55 PM

I made some bonnet vents. Finally no more hood lift!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9e714b5b73.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...32d350b53f.jpg
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Eunos91 06-08-2019 09:42 PM

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5e725ce39.jpg

der_vierte 06-09-2019 06:42 AM

awesome!

DaWaN 06-09-2019 07:00 AM

Haha, looks awesome. Nerdy fact: KKK turbochargers is nowadays Borg Warner, so your EFR logo is somewhat historically accurate :cool:

Eunos91 06-09-2019 07:17 AM


Originally Posted by DaWaN (Post 1537897)
Haha, looks awesome. Nerdy fact: KKK turbochargers is nowadays Borg Warner, so your EFR logo is somewhat historically accurate :cool:

Thanks! I knew about the BW-KKK connection, that's why I did it. I also transformed other logos, but you get most of the puns only if you speak German

Öhlins - Öhldrin ("Öl drin" means "oil inside")
Brembo - Bremse (brake; and the logo was changed into a turbo)
Shell - Shnell ("schnell" means "fast")
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ced0784e4.jpg

Verwah 06-10-2019 09:19 AM

Lots of time and effort, but totally worth it! The livery looks awesome!

Zaphod 06-12-2019 09:11 AM


Originally Posted by Eunos91 (Post 1537898)
Thanks! I knew about the BW-KKK connection, that's why I did it. I also transformed other logos, but you get most of the puns only if you speak German

Öhlins - Öhldrin ("Öl drin" means "oil inside")
Brembo - Bremse (brake; and the logo was changed into a turbo)
Shell - Shnell ("schnell" means "fast")
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ced0784e4.jpg

Very cool Max! I like the "Öhldrin" most...!:bowrofl:

lbatalha 06-12-2019 11:45 AM

What wheels are those? Couldn't find them with a quick scan of the thread.

Eunos91 06-13-2019 02:56 AM


Originally Posted by lbatalha (Post 1538286)
What wheels are those? Couldn't find them with a quick scan of the thread.

Rota K7 15x9 +36

Gn0m4 10-21-2019 05:35 AM


Originally Posted by Eunos91 (Post 1483405)
Bear in mind that I temporarily put in a 6258 0.64 and the spool was identically slow

Did you solvent this?
I´m thinking to buy a nice 6758 offer for my forged 1.6 engine but don´t want spool after 4k

Eunos91 10-29-2019 02:19 AM

In the meantime I got a Kraken manifold and it rips. Starts pulling hard around 3500 rpm, full boost around 3800. I run a 1.8 VVT engine tho.

Eunos91 04-15-2020 10:53 AM

Loads of stuff happening thanks to Corona. Over the winter I built a custom wiring harness that combines my turboed VVT swap harness (based on a 1991 EUDM car) with the airbag architecture off a 1992 USDM and the ABS wiring off a 2003 EUDM, plus specific solutions such as using the AC button as a map switch and replacing the oil pressure gauge with a CANchecked gauge. In retrospective it is the epitomic definition of madness, and I'd much rather get shot in the knee than doing it again. Anyway, I'll cover that later.

As part of all that ("while I'm at it, I might as well do X...") I also revisited the braking system, only to find out that Emilio and Crusher had already done most of this. Replaced the 34 mm rear Sport brake calipers with standard 32 mm ones as I was seeing a lot of rear wheel lockup on the track. As for master cylinder, I was looking for a bigger one, namely 1". Luckily I found out that one from a Daewoo Leganza would fit the brake booster 100%.

This luckily really is a great replacement - the low fluid level sensor is also compatible, and the reservoir holds more fluid (vs. NB): 245 (170) ml at max level, 115 (85) ml at min level. So the effective capacity before a low fluid warning comes on is 130 ml instead of 85 ml, IOW approx. 50% more. This is not only good for race pads and calipers, but because the reservoir also features an additional outlet, that outlet can be connected to the neighbouring clutch master, eliminating its designated reservoir. This in turn frees up space to add a 3" Randall style air intake from the firewall, another project I had planned.

The Daewoo master has the Chevrolet part no.: OE-96245156. It does however come with M12x1 brake line fitting threads, and the port for the rear brake line is on the left side, not the right. So you will need to do some bending to the brake lines, and add an M10-M12 adapter, e.g. from ATE (part no. 03.3511-5200.1)

The brake reservoir unplugs from the master by removing one screw and then simply pulling. It's interchangeable with the NB reservoir in case you don't want to use the Daewoo's additional outlet.
The clutch reservoir can be pulled out with a bit of force. The little nub on the front of the res only holds it in place and isn't connected to the hydraulic system.

With the clutch reservoir gone, you replace it with a fitting of your choice. Any 90° bend that seals will do. I had a spare NPT to AN fitting, that I pushed in and secured it with RTV. A brake hose connects it to the brake reservoir.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8fab848c0.jpg
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Midtenn 04-15-2020 01:51 PM

I'll definitely be looking into the MC as an upgrade. However my opinion is that the brake and clutch should not share the not same reservoir. This is based on how quickly the clutch fluid gets after a full flush. That means the dirt and grime getting into the clutch hyd. system is then shared with the brakes. Not sure if just crappy seals or pickup from the tubing, but I've never seen a clutch master reservoir stay clean long.

Eunos91 04-15-2020 03:03 PM

Fair point. We'll see if the darkened fluid will migrate into the big reservoir or stay mostly inside the clutch master. However, I regularly flush my brakes due to track use, so I might as well flush a fifth nipple.

Eunos91 04-16-2020 05:06 PM

So, I added a small motorcycle fuel filter to keep the dirty particles from the clutch master away from the main reservoir.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...49e06139fb.jpg

I then turned the cappuccino washer bottle around and relocated it towards the center of the car with new brackets. With that out of the way it was time to install the 3" intake. Making the hole solely with a drill, a dremel and a hand file was a major PITA, but turned out ok, given the means I had available.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...07e452b3af.jpg
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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d9b3cbf5b.jpg
Tomorrow I'm supposed to receive the brake prop valve and finish plumbing the brake system. So I called it quits for today.

And then this happened:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...99b51e1856.jpg

Oh cock! The Daewoo reservoir is taller than expected and collides with the underhood bracing. I used some polishing clay to trace where exactly it hit the bracing, and fired up the Dremel once again. God, I love working with aluminium. For the home tinkerer it's a sheer joy to work with.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a1e7c23257.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a5c979a48d.jpg
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Romba 04-16-2020 10:41 PM

Love the livery! Have you by chance done any comparison of IATs of the cowl intake vs intake in the bay?

Eunos91 04-17-2020 03:07 AM

Haven't had a chance yet as I still cannot drive the Miatini yet. I still need to finish the brake system, install an NB airbag wheel, the seats finish the intake plumbing,... Oh my!

Thanks for the compliments!

Eunos91 04-18-2020 05:49 PM

So, underhood work is mostly done. Brake lines are connected to the ABS block, the adjustable prop valve is in, the intake got some heat wrap, the turbo oil feed line was replaced with a slightly longer one and the EFR got its internal BOV back.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9b0594e7fa.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c5316c3752.jpg

a new, smoother and fatter 60->70 mm intake cobra replaces the old, segment-welded onehttps://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f467ca8ef7.jpg

I also started building a new, lighter heat shield. With only a handsaw and a gamer, this is as good as it gets for today. Tomorrow it will be finished. Still need to add some bracing in specific places for improved stiffness despite the 0.8 mm wall thickness. Not pretty, but effective at shielding stuff from heat, I hope.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...949b224647.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...968e5a0861.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3964675566.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...88f5f41f5d.jpg

Romba 04-18-2020 06:12 PM

Where do you mount your heat shield to the chassis?


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