Sclippy96

I thought I would merge info from a few other threads into a master build thread here. The other main thread is about the teething issues I had installing a MSPNP2 and 650cc injectors: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/mspnp2-install-noob-edition-64749/

This is my first Miata and I have owned it for a couple of years now, it was born a 1995 base model with the only option being power steering. I am an autocrosser and built this car for STS autocross rules.



I competed with this car in the 2010 Solo Nationals before deciding I want to learn how to autocross a car that takes throttle control.


The mods from going from stock to STS trim were Monsterflow intake, raceland headers, Trackdog header blanket, Socketed ECU, highflow cat, supertrapp muffler, 6lb battery, kirkey 41700 drag seats, Tein Monoflex 550/335 spring rates, RB Hollow front bar/no rear bar, 15x7.5" SSR Comp-C/Toyo R1R, drilled/slotted rotors, OEM front brake pads/Hawk HP+ rear pads, splitter, rear wing. I'm sure theres stuff I am forgetting but thats major mods for that trim.


Supertrapp exhaust uncorked off of cat:



I got a co-drive in a buddy's Jackson racing supercharged miata and I was instantly hooked on boost. I decided to look for a good deal on a used turbo kit and found a used Gt2554r BEGI-S kit with Intercooler upgrade. It has take a long time to install it once I got it as I am on a ridiculously shoestring budget and have had to teach myself how to do everything on this install, but the search bar here on MT.net and msextra.com has been a lifesaver many times so far.

It has been a few month process since I started tranforming the car from STS trim to Super Street Modified trim. I just finished the install of the turbo last weekend and it took both days and about 17 hours of labor between 2 people in a garage and a set if hand tools. But even before this weekend I had gone in the process recommended by many, install wideband then get the ECU installed and running on stock injectors first, then install injectors and get it to run ok, then install turbo. I first installed a Innovate MTX-L wideband sensor/gauge on the stock ECU and it's worked good and I could monitor the socketed ECU's functionality for a few weeks before I installed the MSPNP2 ECU. I had bad connection issues between the MSPNP2 and the computer initially but solved it once I bit the bullet and got good serial adapters for my computers.


Junk $2 USB to Serial adapter, prolific chip, do not buy:


Expresscard serial adapter much better, what I have learned is look for an adapter with a FIFO chip:


Not pictured is the USB to serial adapter I got from the EFI Analytics that also works flawlessly.

Momo steering wheel, short shifter with extension and MTX-L installed in DIY radio delete blockoff plate:


Currently the car has 17x9" wheels with 245/35/17 toyo r1r tires which required a roll/pull of rear fenders and autokonexion front fiberglass blister fenders with lip cut off and removal of fenderliner... and it still rubs a lil bit but only at extreme steering wheel angles.

Before the turbo was installed:



Post turbo pics:







RCI modified 650cc Ev14 injectors

Drilling for oil was a little scary but it turned out fine:

Bottom and top of heat exchangers need to be sealed I know, CLT sensor doesnt lie:

Meats, dampers, RB bar and intercooler tube, oh my:

They sorta fit, looks a lil monstertrucky but thems the sacrifices I make to get wide street tires:


170k? Perfect time for a turbo hehe:

MSPNP2:



Why?


Just for ***** and giggles an art car that was in the neighborhood:


I'll make a followup post with the install details and what issues I had and how I resolved them. Currently doing the rough road tune and all seems to be going really well so far. The car is miles of smiles already and thats just on the stock wastegate of about 7lbs of boost, I am so hooked.

Sclippy96

Update 6/3/12:

Installed a ball and spring manual boost controller on the wastegate signal line, first time out it was turned down too tight and sent boost up to 15psi as the wastegate was prevented from opening. Good to know the GT2554r can boost that high for short periods of time, but I'm sure it's way out of it's efficiency range up there. I turned the MBC down a bit so now it will surge up almost to 11psi and then settle flat at ~9psi to redline.


I had previously removed the plastic undertray and the intercooler required modifying the plastic bits that help seal the bottom of the radiator and intercooler. I went ahead and used a piece of 6mm alumicore sheet to seal the bottom of the intercooler and radiator.



I used longer bolts to be able to reinstall the "babyteeth" under the intercooler bolts, per SCCA rules which require me to keep them in my autocross class.


I went ahead and cut out a top down front bumper silhouette for a temporary splitter with the protruding alumicore.


In the final version I plan to use this "splitter" to help reenforce and secure a DIY ISCracing style front skirt near the bottom.


Finally Installed a 2" boost gauge in the left vent of the center tombstone, fit like it was made for it.

Sentry

Why uncurable oil leak?

Because turbo miata.

Sclippy96

I figured the grime on the oil pan was from never being cleaned, I burn a little oil but but nothing too major for a 170k engine. Doesn't leave drips where I park it, AFAIK most of my oil consumption is internal with wearing rings. Surprisingly the oil feed and return lines for the turbo haven't leaked a drop yet, neither has the water lines, the whole turbo install has gone refreshingly smooth.

Sentry

I could never get my return leak free. Right before I got rid of the car I considered just buying a brand new pan and doing it completely over. This was on a Civic with a steel pan though, it's probably easier on an aluminum pan with actual material to tap.