Crazy Drummer69

So after my fair share of disappointments with a lemon of a 323GTR, and some silly rice ideas, the car has long since taken a new direction. Forged BP, compound turbo setup (GT2871r & GT35/40), Toyota ST185 Celica GT4 driveline, 10pt cage, new bushings everywhere, coilovers, MS3 standalone, the list goes on. The goal: 450AWHP and a chance to learn what every nut on this car does.

Current status: stripping the dash + front suspension, to be resumed August 14.


Engine: swapped from this car which I will pick up at the end of the month ($500 deposit already paid): http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45614.
H-beam rods, 9.1:1 ceramic coated pistons, MegaSquirt fuel+spark+boost management, turbo camshafts, adjustable cam gears (buying soon), ported & polished head & manifolds, 1600cc low-Z injectors, 21x9x3 FMIC with 2.5" inlets, 3" exhaust, dual 44mm wastegates, dual BOVs (SSQV and type RS), GATES racing belts

Driveline: ST185 Celica GT4 complete driveline, Darryl's conversion kit, ST205 rear LSD, braided SS clutch lines, custom GTR clutch + PP with Toyota spline

Suspension: K-Sport GT Pro Damper Coilovers, 10pt rally cage, sandblast and paint black all reused suspension parts, Superpro "complete" GT-R bushing kit, Mazda MX-3 rear tie bars, front fender frog braces

Brakes: Mazda Millenia V6 front calipers + rotors (4mm thicker, 2pot front calipers), 100% new hard lines connecting to braided SS hoses, dual master cylinders

Crazy Drummer69

I bought the car after being mechanically repaired from a front-end collision. What you see is how the car was when I bought it.







The only real problem area with a couple of spots of rust, a knick in the paint above the wheel, and a dent in the panel.




JDM grill needs paint and a new badge




The intake has since been replaced with a better breathing cone type


VJ23, new rad core and slim fan


J-Spec has a limiter at 180km/h. Apparently disabling that is as easy as removing the instrument cluster and removing a single screw.

Crazy Drummer69

To keep tabs on the engine vitals, I'm building a 5 gauge cluster to be molded into the dash to appear as one big piece. I will make a mold of the wooden original for reproduction in either fiberglass or carbon fiber. I will be monitoring A/F (wideband), oil pressure, boost (one for post GT35/40 pre GT28 pressure, and one for manifold pressure), and I'm undecided on what the fifth will be (probably pyrometer)


The cluster will go here, facing the driver to the right (RHD) where the bowl-shaped divet is on the dash. I will be cutting five holes for wires and gauge cables/wires/hoses


The gauge faces need support while the glue dries, not very clear right now, more pics to come soon!



Unfortunately two of the gauge faces didn't glue properly and are a bit slanted, so I will cut the glue and reposition them.


You can see that #1 and #4 have some minor flaws.






I sanded the excess glue from the front of the cluster and glued on one of two or three final pieces that are part of the structural integrity.

Crazy Drummer69

Here are some shots of the gauge cluster with the old (temporary+horrid) gauges so you can get a better idea of its practical use.







Support in the rear to hold the mounts upright




This is where the gauge cluster will sit. Part of the dash will need to be cut so that the base of my cluster will fit and be level.



Here you can see see the half an inch gap in order to make the cluster level.


All of the dash between the boost gauge and the edge of the platform needs to be cut out.


The dash where the top-left corner of the edge of the platform sits also needs to be cut out.



And lastly, a few POV shots.




I'm very pleased with this idea thus far. The gauges are all easily readable yet they barely obscure my, or the passenger's, field of view.

Crazy Drummer69

1. Stock GTR saddleback fuel tank. Inspect/repair trouble spots, possibly line with a bladder if required by local associations' rules.
2. Dual 255LPH Walbro fuel pumps on either side of the hump in the fuel tank (1), each with 30 micron filters, each with their own 12V 20A relays, each with a -6AN line to the surge tank (4).
3. Dual -6AN SS braided fuel lines from the in-tank pumps to the surge tank
4. Tall, cylindrical surge tank keeps a steady supply of fuel at the bottom during braking, cornering, and acceleration. The idea is that the engine is sucking up so much fuel, that a significant amount of body roll would limit or starve the fuel pumps (2) of fuel momentarily, but enough to lean out the mixture in the engine and possibly burn valves/pistons. A surge tank keeps a steady pool of fuel available.
5. High pressure -10AN SS braided hoses will carry fuel to the in-line fuel pump (6), from (6) to the in-line fuel filter (7), and from (7) to the fuel rail (8).
6. The in-line pump must be able to supply the total amount of fuel needed by the injectors (9) at the appropriate pressure. For this build, the combined pressure of the dual Walbro pumps (2) will keep the surge tank (4) full in nearly all situations and help the in-line fuel pump (6) run more efficiently. I chose the SX Performance 80203 pump for its comparable performance to the Bosche 044 in-line pump and for its larger -10AN input/output connectors. It'll have its own 12V, 25A relay.
7. 60 micron in-line fuel filter is meant to withstand the high pressure fuel, an extra line of protection to prevent the injectors (9) from getting clogged and running a lean mixture, potentially leading to serious engine damage.
8. -10AN fuel rail, big enough to accomodate the high pressure and enough internal space to ensure all four injectors (9) get enough fuel.
9. 4 x 1600CC low-Z injectors are good for ~850HP at 85% duty cycle.
10. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator is located after the injectors (9) to ensure that all injectors (9) receive enough fuel. If you put the FPR before the injectors, it can lag behind the changing manifold pressure and cause the injectors to undersupply fuel to the engine, causing a lean situation and potential serious engine damage.
11. -10AN fuel lines, large enough to carry the high pressure fuel back to the surge tank (4) during low engine stress situations (idling, highway cruising, etc)
12. A check valve is used in case the pressure inside the surge tank (4) is higher than the pressure of the fuel in the return line (11). A second check valve is used to prevent unfiltered fuel from leaving the gas tank (1) and entering the surge tank (4).
13. See (4). Fuel is returned to the top of the surge tank (4), where fuel supply is most important.
14. High pressure -10AN braided SS hose relieves any unnecessary fuel & pressure from the surge tank (4)

Crazy Drummer69

Some parts started arriving ^.^


Vacuum lines


Use 70% isopropyl alchohol to clean the lines when they get dirty


T-bolt clamps to secure the 4" couplings to both 4" turbo inlets


4-ply New black 2.5" intercooler piping


I got lucky, they're a decent thickness, you never know with those eBay kits...


Red couplings + t-bolt clamps



Knicked a roll of heat wrap from work, I grabbed another one clean & new in plastic but forgot to bring it home. I'll probably sell this one for $20

Some more parts arrived
HLA - Hydraulic Lash Adjusters



Wheel arches (stock on the GT-R models)
RHD passenger side wheel arches, but I need the ones for the driver side! A small mixup in the term "driver's side" due to RHD, no biggie, CorkSport has the other halves sitting on a desk to exchange


Hood vents (stock on the GT-R models)


JDM front grill badge - finishing piece, the last item that'll only go on once the entire car is completely finished.


I will be ordering a replica bumper from Corksport when it comes time to do body work. I'll fiberglass a lip to the bottom of it and stick some Hella 500s I ordered last year and have sitting in a box for the fog lights. Here's what the stock GT-R is supposed to look like:


Definitely planning to update the styling, projector HID conversion, clear corners, fab a front lip, Speedline 2020 wheels, Hella 500 driving lights

More parts on the way, but mainly I'm saving to buy the Escort GTR now.

Crazy Drummer69

Worked on the rear subframe the other day and got everything on the right rear loose except the axle bolt, which refuses to come off. Anyways... progress pics, and discoveries about the true condition of the car...


After completely bending one snipe, I used the pipe for my jack and even that one started bending! You can see some of the grinding I also had to do when the tip of a drill bit got lodged trying to pry up the axle nut crush point.


You can see the ice scrappers that are installed on rear GTR hubs, above/left of the top strut bolt.


Squished...


Rear left, notice anything missing from the sway bar linkage?

Crazy Drummer69

Had some friends help me out, made a lot of progress today. Dropped the rear sub frame, got 3/4 of the propshaft hoop nuts removed, removed the exhaust, isolated the rear differential, disassembled most of the rear sub frame (both axle nuts and both interior lateral link bolts refused to come apart, all brake line fittings seized), removed the last interior window, and FINALLY got the rear bumper + lip off the car.

Started the day off properly...




Rear bumper, rear sway bar, and rear bumper lip.



A dent to fill with body filler.






Another dent, though minor, needing my attention.



Bent bolts


The lower bushing & washer were missing when I removed the bar.



A bit of a scrape...

Crazy Drummer69

Yay, the rear sub frame is out! The four bushings underneath the sub frame were crushed and rusted to hell, would prefer to find some aftermarket replacements but I have a feeling that'll prove difficult...



Removed the trailing arms and front lateral links



It's naked!



The rear brake lines didn't make the "cut"



Both axle nuts are seized, and the inner bolts securing the lateral arms are also seized >.<



Anybody need a viscous LSD rear diff?









Also selling these rear struts. The rubber boot is failing, so is the perch, but not bad to the point where they can't easily be restored. The struts themselves aren't leaking and the springs are still stiff.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Why in gods name do you feel the need to do a compound turbo setup? and why would you use a 35R when it is way too big for your goals? and what makes you think a 35R is going to fit in there by itself, let alone run in compound with a 30R?

Crazy Drummer69

Got both fuel assemblies out too, fuel tank will come out soon, along with the filler assembly, and all of the fuel lines. The plan is to replace the sender pump with the Walbro from the built Escort GTR I'm buying, and the main pump will be a 300LPH modified Denso pump (http://www.densofuelpump.com/). I think the extra fuel from the return line will help compensate the Denso's increased fuel draw rate.


Transfer pump on the left, lack of main fuel pump on the right (donated it to my 323GT/Millennium Falcon project)









Got the propshaft off, all of the exhaust (3", need to redo it in stainless and add more joints), and a few rock guards early in the day.







Some of the support bracket for the fuel filler lines are rusted through, I'll need to source new ones.



Saddleback fuel tank




The transfer pump section doesn't have a baffle like the main pump side


There's like a bucket on this side to keep fuel trapped and prevent fuel starvation.


Dirty, dirty fuel. No wonder my filter was black when I replaced it last year. Those japs got dirty fuel, period.


Loosened more of the front suspension, going to have to get creative with the front axles again though, *le sigh*

Crazy Drummer69

Start of the day...





And now for some pictures of the rear underbody...



Rear, left


Rear, right


Rearer, right



I FINALLY got that passenger seat out, I've only been trying for a whole year, effing stripped nut >.<


Didn't get a chance to snap other pictures, but now the only wiring left on the car are the looms running through the fenders and the dash/HVAC loom. Also removed the shifter assembly, pedal assembly, most of the brake/clutch systems, and bought some new parts--but you'll just have to wait for pics of their arrivals! Back to work for another ten days... until then, the GTR sleeps.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Looks promising. Good stuff. Don't stop with the pics

Crazy Drummer69

The GT28 will fit fine in the stock location, the GT35/40 will sit where the battery used to sit, plenty of room in the bay. The GT28 will make it fun on the street, the larger compressor wheel will ensure top-end power and reliability because it won't be stressed as much as a smaller turbo. I don't want to be replacing turbos prematurely, I'll trade the extra $100 for more potential power and less wear/tear.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

This x2

I love the 323's. White is great color, please stick with it.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Stock 3" exhaust!?!? That car is awesome! This thread is win!

aug

iTrader: (7)

Holy zombie jesus..

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

That car must have been hit REALLY hard in the front end collision. Knocked the motor sideways 90 degrees, that ****'s crazy!

Other than that, I want a 323

buffon01

iTrader: (9)

Nice. I just regain motivation to look at my car again.

Splitime

iTrader: (24)

I wonder if those wheel arches would fit a 323 gtx of the US persuasion.... I am planning on cutting out rust and doing 240z flares on the car... but those would be simpler/subtle....