Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
05-11-2011, 10:29 PM
#962
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
My wastegate fell off again today so this is good timing. 
I just put my deposit down on a full new ARTech hotside!
Manifold
Downpipe
Exhaust
Manifold design is yet to be determined. I'm sending my turbo/qsv/WG (which I am exchanging for an MV-R) to Abe to figure out a good design that will fit. Downpipe will flare to 3.75" or 4" depending on what will fit under the car. I can't wait to have a setup that not only will let me make all the power there is to be had with a BP but one that will also not regularly crumble apart and asphyxiate me with fumes each time I drive it. Yay!
I just put my deposit down on a full new ARTech hotside!
Manifold
Downpipe
Exhaust
Manifold design is yet to be determined. I'm sending my turbo/qsv/WG (which I am exchanging for an MV-R) to Abe to figure out a good design that will fit. Downpipe will flare to 3.75" or 4" depending on what will fit under the car. I can't wait to have a setup that not only will let me make all the power there is to be had with a BP but one that will also not regularly crumble apart and asphyxiate me with fumes each time I drive it. Yay!
Reply
0
0
05-14-2011, 06:12 PM
#964
How are you modding the twinscroll turbo for use with a non-TS manifold? Knife edging the flange so there's no flat spot?
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
Reply
0
0
05-14-2011, 07:46 PM
#965
How are you modding the twinscroll turbo for use with a non-TS manifold? Knife edging the flange so there's no flat spot?
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
Reply
0
0
05-15-2011, 01:54 AM
#966
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
How are you modding the twinscroll turbo for use with a non-TS manifold? Knife edging the flange so there's no flat spot?
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I'm debating getting a 3071 or EFT7064, but I can't afford the turbo AND the manifold at the same time, just wondering if I can run it without any detrimental effects to the flange divider or have outlandishly poor performance.
Hmmm...
I don't think running a divided turbine housing with an undivided manifold would be horrible at all.
BTW are you going to burning man this year? I may be going to Transformus in June.
Reply
0
0
05-15-2011, 12:15 PM
#968
No need to use him as a guinea pig, Supra guys have been running them for awhile now at extreme boost levels, no issues. I did see one fail, but Sound Performance said it was the first fail ever; they took care of the guy really well, replacing, and trying to figure out what caused the failure.
Reply
0
0
05-15-2011, 12:43 PM
#969
Did the failed one not GNOM NOM NOM on his turbine wheel? I'd imagine if one failed it would go through and cause some GLORIOUS CARNAGE.
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
Reply
0
0
05-15-2011, 06:53 PM
#972
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
Did the failed one not GNOM NOM NOM on his turbine wheel? I'd imagine if one failed it would go through and cause some GLORIOUS CARNAGE.
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
If I was to run one of these, it would be on an EFR turbo, since I don't care to run an EWG if I can avoid it. Only reason why I'm worried about a failure. Also, I want to know what kind of spool increase he sees. If I run this and an EFR, it's probably going to be the 7064 for some stupid powah. .92 A/R turning into roughly .46 until I build to target boost (probably 20psi), oh lawdy lawd.
Only issue with this thought process is how the hell am I going to put all this power to the road
If the QSV kablooies it will be ok. A replacement turbine wheel is like $100. A journal rebuild kit is $150. Apparently a lot of supra guys are using these with launch control/2step whatever you want to call it and it holds up ok. I am not really sure what would fail. It's just a pole with a plate that's exposed to the exhaust. Abe will have his hands on it and he can tack the plate on more if needed.
I am on a few other non miata forums where my signature links to this build thread. Maybe he came from some non miata scene?
Reply
0
0
05-15-2011, 07:17 PM
#974
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 84
Total Cats: 0
The 7064 is a lot smaller on both the compressor and turbine than the turbo I'm running. It should spool better. The turbine wheel is also If I can hook up some compressed air to the QSV, I will do a dyno pull with it wide open. I have hopes that my turbo won't give up too much power under the curve compared to 28** and 3071 turbos because of the less restrictive turbine. We will see.
If the QSV kablooies it will be ok. A replacement turbine wheel is like $100. A journal rebuild kit is $150. Apparently a lot of supra guys are using these with launch control/2step whatever you want to call it and it holds up ok. I am not really sure what would fail. It's just a pole with a plate that's exposed to the exhaust. Abe will have his hands on it and he can tack the plate on more if needed.
Thank you!
I am on a few other non miata forums where my signature links to this build thread. Maybe he came from some non miata scene?
If the QSV kablooies it will be ok. A replacement turbine wheel is like $100. A journal rebuild kit is $150. Apparently a lot of supra guys are using these with launch control/2step whatever you want to call it and it holds up ok. I am not really sure what would fail. It's just a pole with a plate that's exposed to the exhaust. Abe will have his hands on it and he can tack the plate on more if needed.
Thank you!
I am on a few other non miata forums where my signature links to this build thread. Maybe he came from some non miata scene?
Reply
0
0
05-17-2011, 12:16 AM
#977
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
For the **** of it, I added a little more timing in 3000-4000RPM, low boost cells 1psi-14psi, logged and saw no knock at all. I know that my timing map is not at MBT so that should have gained some power. I also put the boost back at 20psi. Whee.
I am giving my hydramist one more go. I found a "known good" junction board and will be swapping it out for my "known bad" board. I really hope it works this time.
The MV-S is on it's way back to the Tial dealer to be exchanged for an MV-R. Abe recommended that to avoid possible boost control issues.
My PLX DM-100 reads oil pressure, AFR, water temp, and now oil temp. It was a real pain in the *** to get the oil temp sensor working. Seriously, it took me about 6 hours because of various bullshit problems. I also installed a sandwich plate for the oil temp, oil feed, and oil pressure. I plugged the block oil feed. Using the sandwich seemed to be the most serviceable configuration.
Ever since my built motor install, I have always had the sensation that I've really been hauling in my miata. I've looked down at the speedo and it always felt like I was traveling much faster than it indicated. I have always attributed the heightened speed sensation to hopping between my subie FXT auto daily driver and the miata. Today, I was going through a sack of parts and found my 3.6 gearing speed sensor. That means my factory 3.9 sensor is still in the transmission. Argh. It also means that when I topped out 5th I was going 156mph.
It also explains why my speedo needle hasn't been moving as fast around the clock as I expected it would. lulz
I am giving my hydramist one more go. I found a "known good" junction board and will be swapping it out for my "known bad" board. I really hope it works this time.
The MV-S is on it's way back to the Tial dealer to be exchanged for an MV-R. Abe recommended that to avoid possible boost control issues.
My PLX DM-100 reads oil pressure, AFR, water temp, and now oil temp. It was a real pain in the *** to get the oil temp sensor working. Seriously, it took me about 6 hours because of various bullshit problems. I also installed a sandwich plate for the oil temp, oil feed, and oil pressure. I plugged the block oil feed. Using the sandwich seemed to be the most serviceable configuration.
Ever since my built motor install, I have always had the sensation that I've really been hauling in my miata. I've looked down at the speedo and it always felt like I was traveling much faster than it indicated. I have always attributed the heightened speed sensation to hopping between my subie FXT auto daily driver and the miata. Today, I was going through a sack of parts and found my 3.6 gearing speed sensor. That means my factory 3.9 sensor is still in the transmission. Argh. It also means that when I topped out 5th I was going 156mph.
It also explains why my speedo needle hasn't been moving as fast around the clock as I expected it would. lulz
Reply
0
0
05-17-2011, 02:43 PM
#980
Your 3.6 speed sensor was not in the car?? Attention to details, it's one of the things I have always busted your ***** on. Post up some new video of you and the "big speed run" without video it didn't happen!
Reply
0
0
