Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

**** son, I'm scared to go above 120 in my car, though the fact that I also lack a roll bar could be a contributing factor :P

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

Mine still gets front end light once into the 130's range.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I replaced the speed sensor. The tachometer is still pretty inaccurate at lower RPMS but the speedo seems about right now.

Here's some awesome pics of the awesome job.

The speed sensor. The 6speed is not supposed to leak when you pull out the sensor but guess what. Mine did. The sensor is at the rear of the transmission, on the passenger's side.



Here's the old 3.9 sensor and ye olde transmission fluid puddle.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Actually, the sensor was supposed to have been put in by the shop. Blah


Yeah when I was nat. aspirated, fairly regularly, I took the ten minutes to peg the tachometer in 6th and it actually felt pretty stable and solid. Back then though, I still had the undertray. Ignorantly, when I installed my turbo kit four years ago, I ripped out all the factory undertray stuff in the name of FTL weight savings. Since then, high speed has kind of sucked. I would like to seal off the bottom again.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

Me too, me too

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

easy and cheap to do the ducting.( less than 150 if you do it yourself with a good metal supply shop)

Just take your time with a few cereal boxes and a sheet of 3mil 6061 aluminum with some standard hardware store bolts and a set of wide tinbanger pliers for mounting tabs.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Oh please, have you seen his fab skills? I don't want us to make another epic fail thread. We already had the radiator-seal-in-oil kid.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ I have debated putting aluminum all the way back to the rear bumper to reduce underbelly drag, but that'll be a royal pain in the ***..

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

bahahahahahah

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I too am thinking about doing aluminum as far back as possible.

Would aluminum foil work? The heavy duty thanksgiving type? Curly I assume you mean I should tape the cereal box to the foil for extra stiffness?

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

You need the christmas style tape.... the ones that come in 3" lengths otherwise this will all go to ****.

idk where you can get that outside of christmas time, so add this to 2012 to-do list.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I think what you need are those little hot pocket trays. If you get enough of them together you could cover the whole bottom of the car. It should be strong enough to last.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

The Tacho is driven by your ECU, it has no interaction with the speedo drive from the gearbox.

astroboy

iTrader: (18)

Please, if your having cooling problems just lockwire your hood in the popped position.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I ordered 4x 15x9 black 6ULs today. Going to put RS3s on em and start putting down the miles on my "home course". My interest in lateral Gs has been renewed since watching Initial D on Netflix.

I am continuing my quest for spoolage. When I added a whopping 1-2* of timing to my 1-12psi 3000-4000rpm or whatever timing rows, I should have actually altered the 2500-6000rpm 1-12psi rows. Real world, when WOTing on the street, I see 20psi between 3700 and 6000RPM depending on gear and weather. I am going to adjust my map to something like the shaded cells in the tables below and log the **** out of it in 1st through 6th while watching my knock readout and knocklite. The goal is to have a street tested det-free map for those crucial rows where boost is building. Comparing this map to other miata timing maps, it looks pretty damn aggressive, but if it doesn't knock, it doesn't knock.

BTW yes I know the map isn't quite smooth but you should get the general idea. The cells I am talking about are the shaded cells.

Imperial:



Metric:

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I ran the map. Could feel much more power. Logged like a lumberjack. No knock. All good.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Upload a log so I can look it over.

Are you still running WI, I thought the board was fuuuucked?

pusha

iTrader: (5)

faeflora, what method do you use to dispose of all your car's fluids? do you let your old radiator fluid run down the driveway, do you dump your oil near some train tracks? I think you're in the wrong hobby for an animal-loving vegan bitch.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Fae: If you decide to aero the bottom of your car, you can get 16gauge 4x8ft sheets of aluminum for 80 bucks at truck repair depots (the material they use for semi trailers). I'm debating it, but the tranny tunnel gets hot as-is..

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Big *** chaotic log is attached. This is me doing one of my usual thing with the car- driving home from sparring class. The highway was, as usual, clusterfucked so I couldn't quite get in a full 4th pull.

To look at this, use the excel filters. Yes, there is a big knock at the end of one of the pulls. I think it is from throttle lift right before I hit the limiter.

There is some little AFR lean spikes from dwell misfires. Yes, my fuel map is smooth. The Hydra really needs a dwell air temperature trim table.

A man has to choose his battles. Also, Pusha, society frowns upon drinking before 11AM. Get your act together.

When I work on my car at my GF's dad's place, at his recommendation, I dump my old oils/coolant in his backyard grass clippings pile. He says "it will soak it up". The compost pile is adjacent to a stream.


I thought loved hot tranny tunnels? I would like to do some more research before committing to this- to see what the track fellas are doing and if it is that valuable.