Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Yah. I'm not going to put $30,000+ more into this car. Driving my IS-F, I do indeed think I would be happier with an LS setup. But. I already have my built motor, manifold, exhaust. I really did enjoy the GT3071 power. I didn't enjoy losing to chipped audis with an exhaust, but it was still fun. As I said before, Soviet's incoming S256 which is GT3076 sized is calling my name.

Who is pushing 500hp @ 25psi? Clutch is 600ft lb 949 twin disc ceramaic clutch. Even if timing belt is off, car is tuned to best timing before knock.

Note that on the same dyno I just ran on, I made about 300hp. I think that some dynos "read high". Your results relative to other cars on the same dyno are important.

Also. Note that the "400hp" number was the result of a paid tuning session (before I learned how to tune). Before the session started, the tuner asked, "how much power do you want to make". I think that he fudged the numbers. No other log manifold GT3071 other than FM's has come close to 400. Realistically, I think I was 330-360hp with the GT3071.

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

I'm not mediocre. I can only feel like I am partly responsible for Mins goals and some of his fails

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

Or borrow Soviet's MS3+X. I'm sure he'll be OK with small sexual favors in return...

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

I feel like a sac rider, but seriously, follow this post also. You have great support here with the MS system. You know you've wanted to make the switch forever.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Look fellaz. Hydra EMS is not causing problems here. It is not responsible for peak tq @ 6000RPM or no dyno load or fueling fail. EMS is supposed to do 5 things:

Fuel
Timing
Idle
Meth
Knock detect

I would run my car on a slide ruler if it could do all that stuff. Get off the megasquirt dick. It's irrelevant in this situation.


Yes. As I said a few times I think I need cams, IM, and bigger IC Piping. BEGI IC piping for my S5 is 2". TWO INCH.

And I will settle for less power if I don't have to swap transmissions and diffs every day. One day too, my motor will die and it will die a lot sooner with 600hp. I just want to drive my damn car. I own four cars and two of them are off the fuking road. (the other is subie)


Once upon a time I thought I would throw over 600hp on the sheet from the current setup. Not gonna happen without 100% IDC and 45psi.

DeerHunter

I don't think it's the Hydra that's holding him back. I run a Hydra and made about 400 whp at around 21 psig (at 5,000'). Something else is the problem and he should fix that before changing anything else. When trouble-shooting, never change two things at once, or you'll almost never figure out what caused the original issue.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

On what dyno, though? Are you the 2.0 stroker that FM has the charts for from their dyno?

This is a dyno issue, pure and simple. It wasn't set up right, wasn't run right, and just generally sucks.

FM's seemed to be good in terms of how it was run when i was on it, but i'm pretty convinced the numbers were hideously inflated.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Nickt93 did just that, and so did a few others.
Not saying Phil didn't fudge numbers, but it is what it is.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

If you're measuring the boost at the IM, then you still should have comparable numbers. Your turbo puts in 35PSI at reasonably low temperatures. Yes, it will have to work a lot harder to do so through 2" piping, but the turbo working harder will not generate a huge power loss.
You may have to retard timing a little more and the outlet pressure will be higher, leading to less efficient filling etc., but still. 35PSI at the IM should net you more than what you were showing.
The stock 1.8l with 14PSI on a 2560 or some such can get you to 240hp. That's a total pressure of 29PSI. your additional 20PSI over that (50PSI total) is roughly 2/3rd more. That should get you roughly 1.67 x 240hp. That's 400hp. Adding port work, valves etc. I would expect 400hp or more.
You're losing sthg. somewhere and I don't think it's the IC piping, since you are getting the air into the intake. It's just not translating into hp.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Whatever. A given motor and turbo etc can only flow so much air. Only so much variance between motors.


Wut? That is my point. That bigger IC piping, intake manifold, cams would mean same power with lower boost.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

whatever you say boss. all i know is my engine management is not a random number generator when I ask it for duty cycles. maybe you should look into that problem.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

Sorry - wasn't very clear here: All that really matters is the pressure in the IM (boost). At the exit of the turbo you may have 45PSI to get to the 35PSI in the IM. But that's not what you're measuring. So what you refer to as boost is after all the losses from the IC piping. And in the IM 35PSI at 100*F is all that matters.
So IC piping is NOT part of the equation 'same power with lower boost'. Intake manifold, cams, valves, cylinder head design, exhaust etc. ARE part of that equation. They are located AFTER the point where you measure the boost.
Hope that's more clear.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

His car runs like dog d!ck as confirmed by Soviet and has tons of issues needing to be ironed out and 99% of the people on earth think the Hydra is junk, BUT WHAT DO WE KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!

18psi

iTrader: (76)

370whp vs 600whp

potato
pohtahtoh

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

Simplify the system. Ditch the meth for now. Get the turbo running 20 psi on pump gas reliably. Make sure the dual fuel system is working as it should. Get a good tune on turbo only at lower boost. Then add a single nozzle and go 50/50 meth water and tune it there.

Too much plumbing, too many variables. Gotta start removing some of the variables and get the car running right on a baseline and then add stuff back in.

IAG in Westminster are good Suby guys with a dynojet. Go there.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Well that is a very good point. Thank you very much for explaining it to me. One less thing to change out then. The 366 is happy to push over 50psi so I think I will be ok.


STFU you 300hp peon. I have 50 hp more!

If I had my choice of EMS, I would run the new AEM and shiit all over dicks. AEM knock detection is fantastic plus I can trigger my toaster to darken my bread according to my boost level. Also also have you seen their frikken wideband/boost failsafe gauge? Frukking awesome! And and and and when they come out with the driveshaft dyno for import guess who is going to get one?


BTW. I have big valves and ported head.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

The hydra is fine, it just sucks ***** to tune. The issue is that dyno. I've never seen it before but from the dyno graphs it is not setup correctly. Its at the very least not loading correctly, an easy setting to **** up on load varying dynos, and its possibly not pickup up RPM correctly. Get the bugs worked out of the car and get it on a dynojet with the weather station on. At that point you know you'll be getting reliable numbers with no operator error since there is no way to change how the dyno loads up without changing the weight of the rollers. And you'll theoretically be able to compare dynos with anyone else who dyno'ed on a dynojet with the weather station on.

On the IC piping, if he's making 35 at the manifold and 45 at the compressor, he's using more turbine shaft work, which means is waste gate is not as open, which means he has more pressure in the exhaust manifold, and that hurts power. It also means he's heating the air more than he needs to.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

an engine management system is not "fine" if it's not possible to tune it easily.

either find a tuner (element tuning and $$$)
or find a system you can more easily tune.

I dont think the hydra is impossible to tune, I just feel there are easier options.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Well saying sucks ***** is a bit harsh, more like mildly annoying. Though I constantly humble myself by looking at the 90's haltech we have that you have to tune with dos, and shudder.

pusha

iTrader: (5)

Min? Listen? HahahhahahahhhHhahahahhahahahhaa