Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Exactly. Just did a little math, if the pump is up to the task, those ID1000's will flow 700hp at 100% duty cycle at 43.5psi. 400 is nothing. Something isn't working.

FPR needed. Pump maybe needed. You don't need more PSI. You need to fix something.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Hmm, perhaps my morning coffee hasn't kicked in yet then.
Also 70% isn't maxed out. Even conservative folks go to 80-85 easy.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Sigh.

The NB regulator is supposedly 50psi uh, fixed I think? The injectors may have "run out of pump" before 70%DC.

375 wheel not crank. This is not import tuner.

I said the DW300 won't flow enough because from that chart in the DW300 thread, it only flows 25% more than the walbro.

So. What regulator should I get? I found one in purple spec.

http://www.amazon.com/Fuelab-51502-4.../dp/B00378Q1OQ



You make more power if your engine bay is color coordinated right?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I've heard nothing but good things about aeromotive.

One of those that told me good things about it is THIS guy
\/. Listen to him

JayL

iTrader: (12)

Sell your sawzall so you will have some money for a fuel pressure gauge. Pinpoint the problem before trying to throw a solution at it.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

where's the waste of time and money in that?

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Hurf durf indeed. You really stopped at 70% duty cycle? Wtf.

Even the injector manufacturers, who go super easy recommendations suggest 80%.

That means you had another 10% whp you left on the table.

Put on a new pump, FPR and you can shoot for 1000hp all you want. DW300 + ID1000's will be enough to burn out your clutch, blow up your transmission, frag your rear end and turn your engine into a coffee table.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you could also try direct exhaust injection

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-...Q5fAccessories

I've had two. Both were able to take the fuel pressure and adjust/hold it at anywhere from 20psi to 80+psi with the engine off and a battery charger on (13.6 volts to the car).

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

Fuel pressure gauge first and WTF %70i?! Turn that **** up

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

Bitch

*Nice ninja edit pp face*

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

Srsly? That's a heck of a deal if it doesn't blow up in a mile.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I stopped at 70%DC because my AFRS were not richening up despite jacking the fuel map up. With the hydra the injectors can actually be run at 100%DC because the actualy signal will only be 90%.


So seriously, spoon feed me please. What regulator and gauge should I get?

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

If you want to go expensive and legit, Aeromotive. If you want cheap stuff, ebay.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Which aeromotive model/part number?

I have heard from reputable sources that the ebay afprs have plastic diaphragms which disintegrate leading to tears.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (12)

Been on for 3 years now. I could go fire the car up today and it'll sit dead steady at 40psi

matthewdesigns

iTrader: (8)

I used this one in my Talon with both pumpgas and e85. No problems whatsoever.

http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...***-regulator/

JayL

iTrader: (12)

I've seen many of these fail, I'd recommend going with an Aeromotive.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

I'll look up the part number for the FPR later but aeromotive only makes 3 or 4 different ones. I am not positive it is the fuel but it seems to be. I am wondering if you pump was giving up and that is what gives you the up and down dyno. I would put the 300 in there with the FPR and run it again if it doesn't work get a mani and turbo somewhere there is a restriction I am leaning more towards the turbo side of things than fuel but the fuel side is a lot cheaper and what you want to do you need it anyway.