Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
#1161
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The water injection is in a great location directly plumed into the intake manifold so I do not see Faeflora moving that anytime soon.lol I would deff say you need to move that AIT sensor asap because that will make some of your tuning a night mare.
#1163
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Oh Yea. I do not think this is a good idea my experience with W/I is that if you put the nozzle before the BOV or to close to the BOV your eyes will be burning when you drive. I have seen and delt with this before so the only option would be to deal with the burning eyes from the meth or put it just after the BOV right before the throttle body not sure how much help it would really be.
#1164
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OK I took a trip to home depot racing and after much time in the sewage isle I decided I would just cut down the fitting I have now and dangle the sensor bulb in the airstream. I think that will be best. I did not readily find the two foot wide drill bit that is required for a 3/8 NPT hole so **** it.
I went home and cut the stupid BEGI **** in half with my dremel and the JB Weld is drying as I type this. Win.
Oh and BTW in case anyone was wondering how inaccurate my AITs were, in steady cruise, AITs were always 20-30* higher than ambient. Yesterday outside temps were 75* and after being parked for like 3 minutes my AIT sensor read 160*
---Current to do list:
WI street tune w/ washer fluid to get the hang of it before tuning meth on the dyno
-BBBK install
-ducting/splitter/undertray
-oil cooler
-exhaust cam gear
-fuel pump- going to add another Bosch 044 and run both the factory hard line and -6 line to the engine bay, and tee together. i'm not convinced that a single -6 line would flow enough
-redo fuel pump wiring- go to fatty gauge wire, relay
I went home and cut the stupid BEGI **** in half with my dremel and the JB Weld is drying as I type this. Win.
Oh and BTW in case anyone was wondering how inaccurate my AITs were, in steady cruise, AITs were always 20-30* higher than ambient. Yesterday outside temps were 75* and after being parked for like 3 minutes my AIT sensor read 160*
---Current to do list:
WI street tune w/ washer fluid to get the hang of it before tuning meth on the dyno
-BBBK install
-ducting/splitter/undertray
-oil cooler
-exhaust cam gear
-fuel pump- going to add another Bosch 044 and run both the factory hard line and -6 line to the engine bay, and tee together. i'm not convinced that a single -6 line would flow enough
-redo fuel pump wiring- go to fatty gauge wire, relay
#1171
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Yes, VP M1. I would run M3 or M5 but I don't know how my plastic methanol lines would react.
Here. http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-drag-racing.html
I ordered this WI system 4 years ago. It's nice to finally use it and get big results. Tonight, I went out and did a bunch of street tuning. About 25 pulls, looking at the logs after every pull. It took me a little while to get the fuel trims set up aok. Above 13psi I'm at around 12:1AFR. That AFR is leaving some power on the table with about 4% more fuel available to be taken out safely. Knock voltage was nice and low so I went on to the timing trim map and added timing little by little, logging after each change. I ended up with 25*@8000RPM@20psi. That's pretty good and is probably not leaving too much on the table.
I did see some knock on some pulls and had to back off on timing both at 1-12psi and also at peak torque 4500-5500RPM. The knocklite helped. I really want to get much more aggressive with my timing at 1-12psi since that will help spool tremendously. Even with the few degrees extra I was able to add in, spool was noticeably faster. That will be important for optimizing my "big turbo" setup. The issue at low psi is likely due to the pump being too slow. See next paragraph...
One tricky part about the tuning is that the pump and flow does not turn on instantly. The high speed valve (and therefore the flow) is controlled by a 3D PWM map and at 17psi and up I am spraying 100% valve duty cycle. I do have a ramp on the 3D map from 3psi, but unless I'm in 5th gear, 5-23psi spool happens in under a second. The spool is too quick for the pump to flow enough in time and I think that's why I had knock at low psi. I will have to experiment with it again, but I think that it might be best if I ramp to 100% much sooner like maybe 10psi to deal with the pump lag.
Since I am flowing all I can, I think I need more nozzles or bigger nozzles. Fortunately I have a few extras. I think I will definitely use the bung I have on my IC outlet for a total of five nozzles. Either that and/or a precompressor bung when I get my new setup. Wherever I put the nozzles, they will definitely be large nozzles. 1mm or 2mm. They will also flow past the AIT sensor for proper WI AIT trims. Proper temp trimming will be even more important when I go to 100% meth. BTW exposing the AIT sensor directly to the airflow (so it doesn't sit in the stupid brass pipe) worked.
Final results for the night were pretty dramatic. Much faster spool, much faster overall in boost. Yes, I turned the WI on and off and did back to back pulls and anyone would notice the difference.
Next step is to order some more "Y" splitters and rig up my other nozzle(s). I'm also going to rig up my dual stage MBC to cut over to high boost when WI is engaged.
Note: Thanks to JayL for his tuning advice. A little while ago he got me started on logging like mad and making changes slowly and methodically. It's actually a lot of fun fun fun fun fun fun to carefully tune my car.
Here. http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-drag-racing.html
I ordered this WI system 4 years ago. It's nice to finally use it and get big results. Tonight, I went out and did a bunch of street tuning. About 25 pulls, looking at the logs after every pull. It took me a little while to get the fuel trims set up aok. Above 13psi I'm at around 12:1AFR. That AFR is leaving some power on the table with about 4% more fuel available to be taken out safely. Knock voltage was nice and low so I went on to the timing trim map and added timing little by little, logging after each change. I ended up with 25*@8000RPM@20psi. That's pretty good and is probably not leaving too much on the table.
I did see some knock on some pulls and had to back off on timing both at 1-12psi and also at peak torque 4500-5500RPM. The knocklite helped. I really want to get much more aggressive with my timing at 1-12psi since that will help spool tremendously. Even with the few degrees extra I was able to add in, spool was noticeably faster. That will be important for optimizing my "big turbo" setup. The issue at low psi is likely due to the pump being too slow. See next paragraph...
One tricky part about the tuning is that the pump and flow does not turn on instantly. The high speed valve (and therefore the flow) is controlled by a 3D PWM map and at 17psi and up I am spraying 100% valve duty cycle. I do have a ramp on the 3D map from 3psi, but unless I'm in 5th gear, 5-23psi spool happens in under a second. The spool is too quick for the pump to flow enough in time and I think that's why I had knock at low psi. I will have to experiment with it again, but I think that it might be best if I ramp to 100% much sooner like maybe 10psi to deal with the pump lag.
Since I am flowing all I can, I think I need more nozzles or bigger nozzles. Fortunately I have a few extras. I think I will definitely use the bung I have on my IC outlet for a total of five nozzles. Either that and/or a precompressor bung when I get my new setup. Wherever I put the nozzles, they will definitely be large nozzles. 1mm or 2mm. They will also flow past the AIT sensor for proper WI AIT trims. Proper temp trimming will be even more important when I go to 100% meth. BTW exposing the AIT sensor directly to the airflow (so it doesn't sit in the stupid brass pipe) worked.
Final results for the night were pretty dramatic. Much faster spool, much faster overall in boost. Yes, I turned the WI on and off and did back to back pulls and anyone would notice the difference.
Next step is to order some more "Y" splitters and rig up my other nozzle(s). I'm also going to rig up my dual stage MBC to cut over to high boost when WI is engaged.
Note: Thanks to JayL for his tuning advice. A little while ago he got me started on logging like mad and making changes slowly and methodically. It's actually a lot of fun fun fun fun fun fun to carefully tune my car.
#1174
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M1 is really mild stuff compared to its brother's M3 and M5. I do not know of any downside to running full meth instead of water/meth or washer fluid. It is locally available and its not that expensive. As well as I would be surprised if he can burn threw 5 gallons in the next year.
#1175
Methonal:
It is the simplest alcohol, and is a light, volatile, colorless, flammable liquid.
I am scared of having a fire I can't even see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ_UufZ0eZk
It is the simplest alcohol, and is a light, volatile, colorless, flammable liquid.
I am scared of having a fire I can't even see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NQ_UufZ0eZk
#1179
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I would highly highly recommend something to make the flame have color I have personally delt with a fire on and engine running alcohol and had no idea until the person behind the wheel recognized the heat signature and cut the fuel and revved the motor to suck the fire into the engine preventing me from getting burnt. It was inches from me and I had no idea.
#1180
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OK well that makes me not want to run meth until I grab that additive from Justin.
I finally decided on the turbo manifold Abe is going to build. Bread and butter 1.5" runner ramhorn manifold. I would like something crazy and wild but I think that the ram would have the best performance.
Now I just need to find some largish diameter inconel bolts for the turbo flange.
I finally decided on the turbo manifold Abe is going to build. Bread and butter 1.5" runner ramhorn manifold. I would like something crazy and wild but I think that the ram would have the best performance.
Now I just need to find some largish diameter inconel bolts for the turbo flange.