Pics of ring and pinion

3.636!!!! Hmm supposed to be 43 teeth right?

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/ring.jpg

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/ringandpinion.jpg

OK so this is why gaskets are good to use on your stud-type manifold.

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/mani.jpg

FWIW you can see the two EGT sensors on the bottom of the manifold

How does your transmission handles ? Boost levels? I love big turbos.

I greatly abused my 6 speed transmission when stock and then at 200whp levels and it has held up just fine! If it dies over 400whp then I'll get a mazdaspeed miata transmission. The one in my girlfriend's car shifts superbly.

MOTHERFUCKIGN FUCKING FUCK

Solomiata : Transmission : Ring and pinion tooth counts

40 TEETH ASSFUCKSHIT

LMAO shitty.

Man bullshit when buying used parts never ends. I should have just bought the new gear from mazdacomp. :*(

Yup, got yourself a 3.909 set right thar. Unless that pinion doesn't mate with that ring, hopefully you bought them as a set.

OK so the Australian seller is going to send me the 3.6. Uggghhh

I may not have my own car ready for the dyno day I'm organizing :(

ring teeth / pinion teeth = ratio.

I count 11 pinion teeth and 43 ring gear teeth = 3.909

This is probably a retarded question that i think i can answer myself but i have 4.10s right now if i wanted 3.9s i can just swap out the ring and pinion? Willing to sell those ;)

Yes but it is a very fiddly and technical process.

I am a technical man ;) i work at a GM dealership so im sure if i cant do it one of the techs can espically the transmission guy...

I like your persistence after multiple drawbacks and failures. Hopefully my build would have less headaches, but I doubt it.

Surprised no one commented when you uploaded pics of your ring.

Wrenching is both pretty easy and pretty hard. I've never really worked on anything mechanical before so I don't know a lot of tricks and don't have the mechanical "sensitivity" the more seasoned enthusiasts possesses. I mean, I've also done stuff like drive off without tightening my lugnuts many times, leaving the oil fill cap off, chasing "vacuum leaks" which were caused by my throttle being improperly adjusted and hanging open etc..

OK Updates time. No pics yet.

- I returned the 3.9 r&p and got a correct 3.6 r&p. I still need the input flange though.

- The motor is in

- Had mucho problems with the motor at first. Couldn't get it started, blowing a lot of smoke, idling horribly etc etc etc. I had to lean out the FM provided base map by about 30% and it still idled like shit and ran like shit. The problem was fixed by adding fresh gas. Of course, the car had sat for a long time (4+) months?? so the gas was crappified from leaving the cap open.

- The engine was making a horrible clattering noise after swapping the gas and I thought it was motherfucking rod knock. Then I thought it was valves. Then the engine builder said it was some sheet metal thing. The sound persisted. Then the builder said it was my FM cam gear. He put the stock gear on and all clattering ceased. I don't know what the f is wrong with the fm gear, maybe he didn't know how to put it on but I don't think it's -that- hard. WTH but wutever my car engine is ok!

- I've put about 50 miles on it so far doing engine break in- rev to 6k, hit about 2-5lbs boost, snap off throttle, suck 30in gauge vacuum, coast down. No WOT yet. Gonna try to put more miles on before dyno day this saturday!

- Have been putting the miles on with VE based autotune with the hydra 2.6. The new VE autotune fucking rocks. Datalogs show AFRs very close to target! I am happy about it. It is much faster than the old 2.5 autotune and much more accurate. Jeremy did not overstate the tuning capabilities.

- No launches yet (of course) but the act 6 puck w/ FM flywheel w/ ACT XTREEEEME pressure plate is not that nasty at all! It is actually somewhat similar to the ACT XTREEEEEM organic disc. Maybe it has like half an inch less engagement range but it's not huge. It grabs nastily and I like it. The goal of my car mods is to have a brutal monster and I don't want no pussy clutch. I'm pretty confident that I will be able to launch like a mofo and it will grab grab grab. Clutches IMO are actually a huge part of how driving a car feels. So far this clutch is TTU which is not bad for a $150 swap from my disc.

- I have a dyno day on saturday but I won't be running more than 5psi. Don't expect big numbers yet guys!

I have to do a few things before hitting high boost or even WG 15psi and they are:

- engine break in
- install plx gauge for oil pressure, oil temp, water temp monitoring
- get a plx o2 sensor for monitoring too (never thought I'd want a wideband readout but now after all this time and money I don't want to fu shi up)
- hydramist

For future upgrades I now am thinking of the

IGN-1A DIYAutotune coils, ID1000s on the short term, and on longer term

GT35 or PT equivalent.

Alllllllllrighhhht UPDATEALISCIOUS!!!!!


So I've done a few things. Here we go.

PLX gauge "install", water temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, gotta figure out where to put the oil temp sensor. Also picked up a PLX wideband sensor which is supposed to be able to integrate with the Hydra. F yah...

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/1.jpg

This thing is pretty neat. The alerts work. You can set multiple variable thresholds for alerts and then the screen flashes. It can display 4 sensor inputs at once. You can also have single sensor display, and also display graph-type readouts, analog gauge type etc. It's bad as hell.

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/3.jpg

Oh and don't be afraid of my superslick gauge mounting method. I tried to fit in a gauge holder but it just sucked because with the angles the steering wheel blocked the view or it looked like shit etc. Doublesided tape FTW. Let's see if it holds up in the hot sun.

FWIW the oil pressure I see at cold idle is about 50psi, hot idle around 9psi, cruise 30psi, boosting 10psi around um maybe 35psi at 4-5K RPM.

and

FWIW water temp after full warmup is between 190 and 200F. Running the begi "street" reroute.

OK more engine awareness awesomeness:

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/2.jpg

That's the Knocklite XS. Obviously not hooked up. Gotta find the fucking tach signal. Argh. Also am still breaking the engine in-- not going past 5K and only running 10lbs o boost.

Yet another "gauge" adhesive based mounting method.

So. Installing the rollbar was probably one of the more arduous things I've done to the car and that includes pulling the engine. In fact, I think if I did both over again, they would both take the same amount of time. Cutting the carpet was so much fun I thought I would post a picture of my excellent carpet cutting work:

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/4.jpg

Amazing.

Everyone always posts wheels of their lovely shiny 6UL wheels.

Here's one of mine, "keepin it real".

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/10.jpg

I think I will just paint these fuckers charcoal primer. Le sigh

Part of the coolant reroute just kinda doens't make sense to me or I need to buy some better-angled hoses. IF you look real closely at this picture, you'll see that my coolant inlet pipe is literally half an inch away from my AC wheel. That sucks. What to do. What to do?


http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/6.jpg

Now for some meaninful shit. My engine bay as of today:

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/11.jpg

Thinking about removing the evap system. Might also remove AC and PS down the road.

Obviously all that shit is painted or powder coated. Mostly painted. The valve cover and pipes are the only things that are powder coated. Here's a tip. Don't use POR15 velvet on aluminum. It's a fucking waste and the brushstrokes don't smooth out like it says it will. Just spray paint the shit instead.

I decided to paint everything black because I plan to drive the car. On the street. As much as possible. Which means shit will get dirty and I want it to look decent when it's dirty. I want to have a few shiny things in the bay but really just all black. Next turbo and manifold will have to be ceramic coated black too.

Here's my turbie.

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/5.jpg

The detail oriented will see one of the EGT sensors which BTW is fuxored. Note that the thermocouple wiring is fragile. Don't twist it because it will die.

Note the awesome shielding for the braided lines. That's actually there to keep them from cutting into important things like the compressor housing, each other etc. It is supposed to be 750* tolerant but if you look under the chipped-paint heat shield you will see that the nice black coating has melted and is burning away. DAymn niggu! For the interested, that is Thermo-Tec thermo flex. I really have a hard time believing the AIR in there is 750*. If so then DAymn niggu again.

Also note the big fat plate between the manifold and turbine flange. That is a 1/4" plate with a gasket on each side. That was needed since my compressor was bumping into the Tial WG housing. Fortunately, there is plenty of room between the compressor and the frame rail now :)

Annnd some cell phone glamour shots.

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/7.jpg

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/8.jpg

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/9.jpg

Sadly, the new engine does not make the car look any faster when it is standing still :(

Ohhh

So I took the car to Phil Grabow at Element Tuning for a "break in" tune. He tuned my Hydra up to 6000RPM and 10lbs o boost. AFRs are now ok. Didn't do timing or anything, just street tune to get AFRs safe and decent. Also did some work on my idle which is now doing pretty ok. I had a vacuum leak at injector numero 4 (or whatever # is the one closest to the cockpit) which was fucking with the idle but I pulled the plenum, pulled the injector, cleaned it on a towel, lubed the ring with oil and replaced it. So far it is doing aok. Yay. I have about 300 miles on the new engine now :)

Phil seems to be a good hydra tuner and knows his way around the software. Is also a nice car guy. He had some nifty cars in his shop including a T3/60(I think) powered STI with nitrous. Also races in the GRM UTC which is a super nifty race.

ATTN You west coast guys!!-- Phil often makes trips out there so if you have tune issues he might be able to help you.

Phil's the best Hydra tuner as far as I'm concerned. I had a chance to meet him when he was out here and he is super nice guy as well.

So a brief update--

Car is off the road and dead.

Was driving along the highway cruising at 60 and it felt like I ran out of gas- throttle stopped working, speed dropped, coasted to a stop, car died.

It's not the plugs

not fuel pump/filter/injectors

not timing

not the crank angle sensor

there is no cam angle sensor in an 03

i don't know what the fuck the problem is.

Sent the hydra to FM to test in one of their cars today. Hopefully the hydra is fucked so that way my shit can get on the road again. Fucking fuck hell shit fuck.

Yeah there is :) it's just moved, it's on the valve cover at the back left hand 'hump' as you look into the engine bay.

If you didn't have one you wouldn't be running.

check if you have fuel. Fuel pump? Regulator? leaks?

Yes fuel

Yes fuel pump

Regulator is ok i guess??? I mean, I have fuel pressure at the rail.

No leaks.

Well car still won't start and now I know it's not the Hydra. It worked fine in FM's cars :( Auuugh

Teething pains my man just stay persistent. You will get all of the gremlins sorted out. you > :ky: < your car, enjoy it, it is just part of the price we pay.

Updated car woe thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...677

FUUUUUUUUUCKKKK. OK.


So I dicked around with the car some more, drained the battery a few time, charged it a few times, fucked around with the wiring, fixed nothing, just got my compression tester extension stuck down my spark plug hole.

Sean AKA 2JZ Miata came by to take a look at it. He got my compression tester unstuck with a screwdriver and then we pulled the valve cover.

This is what he found:

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/hole.jpg

That is a sheared off bolt that mounts the timing marking plate to the head.


http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/shavings.jpg

And found all this crap


http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/washer.jpg

And this poor washer but no traces of the bolt head. Except:


http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/belt.jpg

For this hole in my brand new gates belt.


Which probably caused this: (couple shots for clarity)

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/marks.jpg
http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/marks2.jpg
http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/marks3.jpg

Car is getting unfucked now by shop.

Another note--- question:

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/fukk6.jpg

See the marks on my damper? What the hell is that fucking plastic tab thing for? Some timing shit? That's not TDC is it?

I believe the mark you're referring to is the lower pulley timing mark? I think it's 10*, with a scale up to 18.

Edit: From what Sean said in the other thread, that's not the case apparently, so ignore me.

Where'd you get the pink pipes and wastegate?

You need to get these sand blasted and I can order some powder to match your piping it would look awesome as long as you can handle driving with pink wheels?

http://mekalummezar.com/carpics2/fukk6.jpg

Argh, this is the shit he's talking about.

Pink pipes is from BEGI with RAL powder coat.

WG is just a purple Tial. Nuthin special. They come in all colors.

Thanks for the pics faeflora

That might be pretty badass :)

What I wanted to do a while ago was have the wheels copper coated and then let them oxidize to a green patina. Copper coating is a part of some place's chroming process but everyplace I spoke to about it wanted like $200/wheel.

Lemme see if I can find the baltimore bead blaster...

Pink wheels FTW! Kinda think copper would just look weird, unless you steampunked the whole car.

The patina would go with the green :)

If I pink my wheels and don't like them will you buy them from me :D

MY FUCKING CAR IS BACK ON THE ROAD.

So the shit died and wouldn't start because the intake and exhaust cam had both jumped like 4 teeth. The cause was probably a bolt that sheared off the timing mark plate which then punched a fucking hole in my gates belt.

Sean Mr2JZMX5 pulled my valve cover and timing belt cover and found this fuckage. The shop replaced the timing belt free of charge which apparently is a major pain in the ass and took them over an hour to just pull the ATI damper. I don't know if any of you DIY ATI damper removals but I might need some tips 70K miles down the road.

So I'm back to breaking in my engine. I think I'm at like, 300 miles now. Gonna go for a drive now and put another 100 on. Let's see if I get back home.

congrats. gotta love happy endings

Before tuning on high boost I'm gonna copy you partially- go to ID1000s and some undecided coil system. We can have east vs west coast, 3071 vs 3076 or something like that :)

If I can actually get my shit to start normally we just might lol

So the other day I was regrounding my water temperature sensor and I saw that my ATI damper was fucking oscillating about a 1/4". I drove it and then looked again and it is not oscillating anymore.

This means the fucker was not pressed on properly. The installer (shop) must not have used lube because they were like OMG it took hours to press it on. The damper needs lube to slide all the way down the shaft properly. They will have to fix it when I go back to have my valve clearances checked in two weeks.

The motor now has about 800 miles on it. Mostly wussy highway driving, stuff under 6k rpm, 5-10psi boost, mostly tried to stay under 5 psi. No WOTing in boost.

I have a dyno tune appointment with Phil @ Element Tuning in three weeks so I am trying to get the car ready for that. Need to do a few things first including:

WI install-
This install intimidates me. I still haven't even figured out how to get to my cigarette lighter power (don't know how to remove the driver side footwell liner). I'm not very confident about wiring shit up and I don't want this crap to fuck up. I am strongly considering individual runner WI but how the fuck do I remove the lower intake manifold while it is in the car? Do I have to jack up the car and get at the bolts from underneath or can i do everything from the wheel well? Urgh.

MBC install-
I have this little fucker for a MBC. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg I figured why should I pay $5 for a perfectly functional home depot MBC when I can pay $200? Because the $200 boost controller comes with this $4 switch! http://www.turbosmartonline.com/images/155.jpg It's used to toggle between the two boost settings. I will put a "nitrous" or better yet a "NOS" sticker on it. My plan is to have low boost be like 18 psi and high boost be like 899999++++ psi. I am running a hydramist and my base timing map will be pretty conservative and my high WI map will be off the fucking hook and high boost ready. I won't run high boost without WI. Hydramist will automatically toggle timing, fuel, AFR targets and a few other maps as well as the turbosmart solenoid if it runs out of water so it will revert to low boost.

Tap my IM for a big fat vacuum hose fitting for my lazy Tial BOV. Right now it chuffs a lot and hopefully a big vacuum source 12 inches away will help with that.

Install Oil temp sensor
I think I will just drill out and tap my drain pan plug. I don't know where else to put it. Ideally I would like to put it up near where the turbo is just because it's easy to get to. But, I don't have a fucking fitting to do so. I ordered one from Begi but the thing didn't fit my sensor. Fuck.

Change oil and look for sparkles of death in oil
I think I will filter my oil through a coffee filter (before it touches my nasty drain pan) so I can see if I have any horrible stuff in my oil. I would cut open the filter but I don't have the tools for that. Maybe a sledgehammer would work?

Tonight I did some shit. My old EGT thermocouples got fucked during my engine pull and reinstall. I got replacement senders from spruce aircraft. I pulled the old nonfunctional senders out (which rusted like fucking mad) and put in the new ones. I have two. Here is one.

Attachment 241590

Amazing. As you can see, I keep my turbo and wastegate in sparkly brand-new-like condition. I think I have the most beat up tial gate and compressor in the world :(



And after about a minute or two of burning off factory coatings or something, it worked! Attachment 241591

Hallelujiahfatawjihad! EGT again!

That is about as stylish as a dual analog EGT gauge gets. For you ******s that think you are supposed to tune for optimum EGTs, HP and knock be damned, there is this awesome piece by Koso. http://www.startinglineproducts.com/.../koso-dual.gif For real tuning though, this should be pretty darn useful for getting my WI dialed in.

Allright updatey time


Car is in the shop right now having a rx7 clutch pack diff, a rx7 housing, mazdacomp diff mounts, and a 3.6 r&p and the proper speedo gear installed. Also having them install frame rail braces. I would have installed the frame rail braces but I don't have any rhino ramps. And I don't have any place to store rhino ramps. I could jack the car up on the pinch welds but those fuckers are so damn mangled already.

I have happy dreams about the new differential. My old torsen must have been a special feller because I used to launch my car shittily over and over and over again with ridiculous CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK wheelhop. It did not die so the newer torsens must be stronger than the old ones. Mind that I did not launch on a strip nor did I launch with drag radials/slicks. Just RS2s and worse. So anyways, this torsen is a beast so if anyone wants it, let me know.

I hope that the clutch pack will not need any adjusting because I really don't want to pull the fucker and rebuild it. Ugh. That is just a pile of unhappiness so let's not think about it.

If I break an axle, and I don't plan to since I will pussy launch. Top end mph ftw! Well if I break an axle then I will just cry.

I really miss driving my car. The weather is so nice now- spring and fall are my favorite times of year to drive.

I have my dyno tune session in 3 weeks. Hopefully I will have a good readout to post then.

Before that though, I still have to install my WI.

I am going to go with individual runner WI. I have a hollowed out plenum and after seeing enough pics of SQUARE shaped plenums on 9 second drag cars I am not worried much about airflow. I think I will do my awesome infrared temperature checking on the runners to make sure I am not super lean, also pull plugs. I am interested to see how good I can get my hp/torque curves with stock cams and VVT. I do have biggie valves and ported head but we will see if cams matter that much.

with a good t00n this thing is going to haul like a raped ape.
18psi is your "conservative" pressure setting? damn:eek5:

yours should be too 18psi.

you have a built engine!

So the shop was putting in my clutch diff when I got a call-

They were like you already have a clutch diff in here. I was like huh?? Did the PO change the stock torsen out?

So I went to the shop and this is what I saw:

Attachment 241560

It took me some googling to figure it out (hint solomiata.com) and it is actually a stock tochigi-fuji clutch diff. The only stock clutch diff for any model year. Only '03s used this diff. And my car is an 03.

So that was what I thought was an unbreakable torsen. I do not road race or autocross so I don't know it's capabilities in that regard but for launching and for drifting, it was great. I am having it opened up and checked for damage though, and also the clutch plates checked for thickness because of this:

Attachment 241561

Broke a pinion tooth. The ring was pretty much ok, nicked up but still usable. Despite the broken ring tooth, it still worked though. I wonder how long it was broken for? Because of that, I sent off my 3.6 gears to Liberty's Gears: http://www.libertysgears.com/ That's where eliminator had his gears done. I got a shotpeen, polish, and cryotreat for $104. Pretty damn cheap IMO. I considered mikronyting (walnut shells) and another treatment but I really want strength and well, strength. The non cryo/shotpeen treatments seemed superfluous. I am having the gears shipped to me instead of the shop just so I can take a picture of them and take a look at the treatment results.

Oh and btw I had to get two new PPFs. I cracked the one in my car, I'm guessing from wheel hop, or being absurd. This is the worst picture ever but you can see the crack.

Attachment 241559

Then I got a replacement from a local board member but unfortunately, it was twisted since the donor car was in a wreck.

I got my gears back from Liberty's. Here they are in all their glory. I got frostburn from holding them for the pics!



Attachment 241551


Attachment 241552

Attachment 241553


Attachment 241554


Attachment 241555

The pinion looks like a frikken mace.

I finally drove my car home tonight. No drama. The 3.6 gears are nice. They make the car feel more "relaxed". I definitely wouldn't want them if I was N/A but with the medium size turbo I have it should be great.

On the to do list for the weekend:

Install hydramist- everything but the nozzles
Wire up knocklite
Redo my hotside IC piping and couplers
Do a street tune for 15psi- gonna try to use the hydra VE autotune

Well so far I have not erm gotten that far.

Completed:

Redid couplers for hotside IC piping
Cleaned and oiled K&N filter
Put on a slip-join exhaust clamp
Re-calibrated my Hydra O2 sensor
Tested my knock sensor and decided the problem is at the ECU not the sensor

Going to go start working on the hydramist and will try to figure out where to mount a catch can.