Florida MSM Build Thread: 225whp and Counting
 

Hey everybody,

Have had my MSM for about 1.5 years now and really love it. I'm a regular over at mazda-speed.com but I figured I'd come over here and start a build thread.

Got the car in Septemeber 2014. I wanted wanted a project car that I could build in to a fun inexpensive track car. Though the MSM has been anything but inexpensive (lot of mods needed to fix the factory issues and bring out its full potential), it has been very reliable and very fun. My goal for the car is 260whp.

I got the car completely stock and in amazing condition. Bought it from a dealership in Daytona with 38k miles for $12k out the door. 2 owners with the first one being a "corporate lease". Guess that meant the dealership owned it.

Since then, I have invested a large amount of money into the car. The list of mods are as follows:
- FM Big Enchilada tuned by Jeremy at FM.
- FM I Clutch/Flywheel/SS Clutch Line
- TEIN Street Advance Coilovers
- Hard Dog Hardcore M2 Double Diagonal Rollbar Bar
- Advanti Storms S2s 15x7
- Dunlop Direzza DZ102s tires
- Portfield Carbon Brakepads
- GROM Audio Adaptor/Cobra SPX5500 Hardwired Radar Detector/USB Adaptor

This has gotten me to a dyno confirmed 223whp and 230wtq.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455092792

In regards to maintenance I have replaced or fixed:
- Clutch slave and master cylinders
- Battery
- Oil, clutch fluid, and tranny fluid
- Brake Pads
- Passenger Side Window Regulator

My plans for the MSM in order are below:
- 3.63 gear conversion
- FM Crossflow Radiator, FM Stage 1 Fans, Water pump, Timing Belt
- FMII conversion with the GT2560R Turbo

HOPEFULLY that will be it and I'll be around 260whp and 260wtq. Not looking to build the motor so I think I should be safe around there.

I'll be updating this thread as the build continues. Pics coming below.

Thanks guys

Stock exterior

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455092792

Stock Engine Bay

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455092792


Current Exterior Setup

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455092792


Current Engine Bay

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455092792

By the way, here is the Carfax for my car. I'm really not cure what it means. Started off with the first owner just being "Corporate" for 6 years and only putting 20k on it. Maybe the dealership owned it? Then the 2nd owner is "Personal Lease". Didn't think you could lease a car after it has been used. I'm the 3rd owner. What do you think guys?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455093217

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1455093217

Good intro :bigtu: Welcome!!

IMO, you should be considering a buffer plan to prevent your rods from saying 'F IT, IM OUT'.

250whp is considered to where you need at least rods to achieve those power levels reliably. I highly recommend manly rods :naughty: I have no ragrets using them in my build. Go snatch some ACL bearings before another shortage happens lol. I settled for cleavite :dunno:

Thanks man. Glad to be here.

I've talked to FM a great deal about this subject. They are confident the bottom end will be fine all the way up to 275. I trust them. I also know many people on mazda-speed.com who run 260whp on stock internals and are fine. Hell, I know a guy running a 3071r on a regular NB making 300 whp for the past 15k miles and it's been fine for him. Not sure how long that will last but just shows these engines are tougher than most think.

If I do bend a rod, I'll pull the engine and just go for it with rods, pistons, bearings and the works. Hope I don't have to since my goal is only 260whp.

You realize rods don't always just bend right?
Often they break, taking the block and head with them.
Good luck

*edit: FM's 275 is 245 on most other dyno's. also I've seen 400 on stock internals. So what

I'm sure as long as FM is tuning you may be right. But then again, 'buffer' or safety net. Better safe than sorry :D GL

I bent rods with subsequent catastrophic failure at 14 psi on an ancient FMII kit. Currently running 12 psi with that same kit at approx 220hp. Anything higher I would be worried.

All these guys are trying to help you out, so I will repeat what they have already said. Ive bent a conrod at 250-260ish whp, I got lucky and it didn't take out my block.You don't want to have to worry about reliability Forged rods and a slight freshen up and 260 will be a lot safer. Just my :2cents: Good luck with the car :)

If you are planning to track the car at all you need to face reality. Sustained full throttle applications at 235wtq will bend your rods - see greddygalants' thread for confirmation.

And you need to move away from thinking in terms of horsepower. Torque is what will bend your rods. You are currently at the limit of what your engine can realistically survive. A turbo upgrade isn't going to help in that regard.

For "street" use, where you are rarely at full throttle, sure the engine can probably survive at "275", or whatever FM quoted you. But it can't actually handle that power. You only get away with it because you're rarely into it for more than 3-4 seconds, and unless you're a complete hooligan, you're not climbing through 4th and 5th with sustained full throttle.

If you ask that engine to deliver that torque repeatedly, the rods are going to fail in short order.

Car looks great. Red with the black wheels works well.