Forced induction bottom end build... AKA the unplanned child.
#141
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So the GF and I are headed to a wedding right now in Parker AZ. It's roughly 280 miles from our house in Goleta CA. The GF's parents didn't want us to drive her giant diesel truck or my miata so they wanted us to take one of their cars. Her dad asked if we would drive his Tesla model s. I think he wanted us to get rid of his charge anxiety lol. So here we are in Indio CA at a supercharge station, charging this giant iPod on wheels.
Car rides excellent, is quiet and halls ***. It's fun to drive once you get the hang of the accelerator pedal. If you're going over about 8 mph and take your foot completely off the pedal it goes into regen braking. Will keep a steady pace of about 5mph. At freeway speeds letting compley off means pretty hard regen braking. So in most circumstances, even when slowing, you have to slightly modulate the "throttle" to keep from slowing too quickly.
Other than the stop and go **** we hit near LA, I haven't touched the brake pedal but maybe 10 times. Kind of wierd.
Going to hit one more super station about 120 miles from here tonight. Then a short 40 miles to the hotel. Hopefully doing this will allow us to skip one charge on the way home. Wish me luck.
Car rides excellent, is quiet and halls ***. It's fun to drive once you get the hang of the accelerator pedal. If you're going over about 8 mph and take your foot completely off the pedal it goes into regen braking. Will keep a steady pace of about 5mph. At freeway speeds letting compley off means pretty hard regen braking. So in most circumstances, even when slowing, you have to slightly modulate the "throttle" to keep from slowing too quickly.
Other than the stop and go **** we hit near LA, I haven't touched the brake pedal but maybe 10 times. Kind of wierd.
Going to hit one more super station about 120 miles from here tonight. Then a short 40 miles to the hotel. Hopefully doing this will allow us to skip one charge on the way home. Wish me luck.
Last edited by williams805; 10-24-2014 at 11:45 PM. Reason: Pics
#144
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I got a chance to see and fondle (but not drive) a Tesla S at a conference earlier this year. The company reps really like saying the word "frunk"
Its a seriously neat car. I read in an article yesterday the line "Tesla is the electric car industry” and the more I learn the more I tend to agree. Thanks for the updates!
Its a seriously neat car. I read in an article yesterday the line "Tesla is the electric car industry” and the more I learn the more I tend to agree. Thanks for the updates!
#145
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Latest oil report.
Only used 2.5 qts this time. Better but I'm not happy.
Will stretch the oil change to 4K this time. If all is good I'll do 5K next time as they recommended.
Only used 2.5 qts this time. Better but I'm not happy.
Will stretch the oil change to 4K this time. If all is good I'll do 5K next time as they recommended.
#146
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Almost pulled the trigger on a MSPnP2 the other day. But I just can't do it when I think the new MS3 based PnP unit is coming soon. Have funds now, just waiting. Hope it doesn't take too long.
Thinking about getting an LC2 and installing soon for one less thing to do later. One thing holding me back is the gauge. I really like having an analog reading. I guess I'm out of the norm there but it's just easier for me to read. I like the AEM unit with both digital and analog style displays but DIY recomened the innovate over the AEM so that's is what I'll go with. Just wish I could get a dual display gauge for it.
Thinking about getting an LC2 and installing soon for one less thing to do later. One thing holding me back is the gauge. I really like having an analog reading. I guess I'm out of the norm there but it's just easier for me to read. I like the AEM unit with both digital and analog style displays but DIY recomened the innovate over the AEM so that's is what I'll go with. Just wish I could get a dual display gauge for it.
#147
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Another 1k miles. Another 3/4 quarts burned. Strapped my gopro to the bumper pointed that the tail pipe and drove the **** out of it. Never saw a cloud of smoke. WOT or hard decel. Never. It does puff a bit in the mornings, but just looks like water vapor to me.
The saga continues.
I had to pull the catch cans for smog. I blew into the vent side of VC and noticed it's very hard to blow through. Maybe I'll take the VC off and then pull the plates underneath to see if there is any obstruction. Maybe it's time to buy another VC and open the holes up to -10 and run VTA breather system, just to see if it helps with oil consumption.
Also will fix a tiny oil leak from oil pressure gauge line at engine block fitting.
The saga continues.
I had to pull the catch cans for smog. I blew into the vent side of VC and noticed it's very hard to blow through. Maybe I'll take the VC off and then pull the plates underneath to see if there is any obstruction. Maybe it's time to buy another VC and open the holes up to -10 and run VTA breather system, just to see if it helps with oil consumption.
Also will fix a tiny oil leak from oil pressure gauge line at engine block fitting.
#148
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Small update. I bought another valve cover to modify. Drilled the passage in between the middle and fresh air side vent cavities of PCV system out to 3/8". Went for a short but hard 40 mile drive in the mountains to see if anything would change. I found the PCV side catch can had more oil in it than ever before. Maybe a shot glass and a half worth of oil. That's probably more thank the 6000+ miles combined previously. I did absolutely nothing to the PCV side of the valve cover. The fresh air side can still has nothing but oil residue in it.
Before the test drive I topped off the oil. This time 1 qt in just 600 miles. No bueno. It's puzzling why sometimes it sips oil and others it guzzles. Probably driving habits.
I also pulled the spark plugs and found they all still look the same. Just a little white flakey residue. Completely bone dry.
Before the test drive I topped off the oil. This time 1 qt in just 600 miles. No bueno. It's puzzling why sometimes it sips oil and others it guzzles. Probably driving habits.
I also pulled the spark plugs and found they all still look the same. Just a little white flakey residue. Completely bone dry.
#149
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Burned another 3/4 quart in 700 miles. I beat the car fairly hard compared with normal comuting.
I've decided to pull the oil squirters when the 4k miles are up for this oil change. Here is my thinking... I could go ahead and spend the time and money to fully disassemble my engine, throw in new rings, re-hone cylinders, ceramic coat pistons, ect. But I really want to do one thing at a time to see exactly what is causing the oil consumption. So in MT.net fasion, I will be as cheap as possible and pull the squirters and plug the holes in the block.
Way I see it, if this fixes the problem, I'm done. I'd rather have coated pistons without squirters but willing to forgo in the interest of seeing what happens. I could spend a whole lot more for piece of mind but **** it. Let's see what happens.
If this doesn't fix the oil consumption, a re-ring will be in order.
I've spent the last few months contemplating and reading many different opinions on this subject. Read many places that oil squirters are a nessecery on boosted engines and many others that say they are not needed with forged pistons. What sealed the deal for me is reading some Supra and SRT related stuff related to aftermartet forged pistons having oil drain back holes near the oil control rings which our factory pistons do not. I have come to believe these oil drain back holes are contributing to my oil consumption. We will see. Also read a few of Bbubdy's post where he has come to the same conclusion and since he has removed his squirters, his engine last longer and ***** rainbows.
Wish me luck.
I've decided to pull the oil squirters when the 4k miles are up for this oil change. Here is my thinking... I could go ahead and spend the time and money to fully disassemble my engine, throw in new rings, re-hone cylinders, ceramic coat pistons, ect. But I really want to do one thing at a time to see exactly what is causing the oil consumption. So in MT.net fasion, I will be as cheap as possible and pull the squirters and plug the holes in the block.
Way I see it, if this fixes the problem, I'm done. I'd rather have coated pistons without squirters but willing to forgo in the interest of seeing what happens. I could spend a whole lot more for piece of mind but **** it. Let's see what happens.
If this doesn't fix the oil consumption, a re-ring will be in order.
I've spent the last few months contemplating and reading many different opinions on this subject. Read many places that oil squirters are a nessecery on boosted engines and many others that say they are not needed with forged pistons. What sealed the deal for me is reading some Supra and SRT related stuff related to aftermartet forged pistons having oil drain back holes near the oil control rings which our factory pistons do not. I have come to believe these oil drain back holes are contributing to my oil consumption. We will see. Also read a few of Bbubdy's post where he has come to the same conclusion and since he has removed his squirters, his engine last longer and ***** rainbows.
Wish me luck.
#150
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Such numbers. Much oil consumption. Wow. Good luck sir!
Per previous discussion in this thread, I called Supertech and spoke directly to a tech. For my described application (boost, trackday bro, no coatings, etc) they recommended 0.0035. Not sure if that helps you at this point but it might help those following along at home. Just another data point.
Per previous discussion in this thread, I called Supertech and spoke directly to a tech. For my described application (boost, trackday bro, no coatings, etc) they recommended 0.0035. Not sure if that helps you at this point but it might help those following along at home. Just another data point.
#151
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Such numbers. Much oil consumption. Wow. Good luck sir!
Per previous discussion in this thread, I called Supertech and spoke directly to a tech. For my described application (boost, trackday bro, no coatings, etc) they recommended 0.0035. Not sure if that helps you at this point but it might help those following along at home. Just another data point.
Per previous discussion in this thread, I called Supertech and spoke directly to a tech. For my described application (boost, trackday bro, no coatings, etc) they recommended 0.0035. Not sure if that helps you at this point but it might help those following along at home. Just another data point.
This is for science! I'm only .0003 above that recommendation on my worst cylinder. Doesn't seem like much to me. My thinking at this point is bad cylinder hone (or break in) or those holes in the Supertechs.
All my spark plugs look identical. Kind of rules out having one bad cylinder. I thought for a while that I had f'd up oil control rings on one cylinder when I put it together. No evidence on this however. I'm lead to believe whatever it is, it's common to all cylinders.
#152
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New thread on oil squirters^ https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...cussion-82895/
Note to anyone planning on doing a/c delete: Do it first!
1) It's cheap. Maybe even pays you if you sell the parts. If you need to evacuate system this costs a little. If you run p/s you need a new belt. And you need this if you still want the blower to work through the ducting...AIR DUCT KIT (PKNA01-61-150A) - $32.95 - PKNA0161150A
2) Easy. Whole thing including evaporator removal should take an hour.
3) Get rid of almost 30 pounds. Mostly in front of axle centerline.
4) There is a cavernous space behind the glove box you can put lots of other **** in and a few holes open up in the firewall and one in the trans tunnel (to run wires through).
I've put a few gauges in and needed to pass more than a few wires and lines from engine bay to passenger compartment. If I would have removed the a/c along time ago, my life would be easier. I'm going to go back now and make one sweet little harness that will pass all connections easily through one or two of the vacant holes.
My ultra long wideband harness can be coiled up and live happily and cleanly out of sight where the evap used to live. Also my sterio head unit will most likely live back there with the help of a infered repeater. And if I ever need to get at anything, simply pull the glove box without any tools.
Note to anyone planning on doing a/c delete: Do it first!
1) It's cheap. Maybe even pays you if you sell the parts. If you need to evacuate system this costs a little. If you run p/s you need a new belt. And you need this if you still want the blower to work through the ducting...AIR DUCT KIT (PKNA01-61-150A) - $32.95 - PKNA0161150A
2) Easy. Whole thing including evaporator removal should take an hour.
3) Get rid of almost 30 pounds. Mostly in front of axle centerline.
4) There is a cavernous space behind the glove box you can put lots of other **** in and a few holes open up in the firewall and one in the trans tunnel (to run wires through).
I've put a few gauges in and needed to pass more than a few wires and lines from engine bay to passenger compartment. If I would have removed the a/c along time ago, my life would be easier. I'm going to go back now and make one sweet little harness that will pass all connections easily through one or two of the vacant holes.
My ultra long wideband harness can be coiled up and live happily and cleanly out of sight where the evap used to live. Also my sterio head unit will most likely live back there with the help of a infered repeater. And if I ever need to get at anything, simply pull the glove box without any tools.
#156
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So I took off March 30th through April 3rd off work. The GF will be out of town. Will be pulling the engine to remove oil squirters. Also lining up parts for cooant reroute. Looks like the CNC spacer sold here will be the last part to arrive. May have to do that with the engine back in. Oh well.
#157
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Pulled the trigger on MS3 basic. Band aids for sale...
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...99-00-a-83496/
https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...99-00-a-83496/
#158
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Got Revs basic ms3 installed. Fired up maybe one crank longer than stock? Do not have my LC2 hooked up yet but car started from cold and idled up to warm. One little hiccup in the beginning but cleared itself up and was fine after.
Ordered Singular ECU bracket today. Can't wait to get that and the O2 hooked to the ecu. This weekend the ID 725s go in.
Ordered Singular ECU bracket today. Can't wait to get that and the O2 hooked to the ecu. This weekend the ID 725s go in.