Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Why is it so damn hard to find any Exhaust manifold nuts? No brick and mortar store here carries them, really? Does nobody take their manifolds off?

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Why not take the front water neck off, now that you did re-route, and have everything apart?

EDIT: Well, actually, you have that part all back together now.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

More progress!

Due to the porting, the gasket at rest sat slightly inside the runner on #4 under gravity and needed some shifting to sit correctly before putting the manifold+turbo on. I used some Permetex High Tack to hold the gasket in place after boring out the holes on two spots on the gasket to let it shift upward slightly. As you can see in the pictures, the change was only slight but enough to require some extra work. The High Tack really does the job holding that thing on, I had to pull the manifold off several times and it did not shift once.

One of the few issues I have had with the pre-order TSE manifold is a stud that goes through the flange hitting the runner behind it before the manifold is fully torqued down. Previously I had ground down the stud to clearance this but since I had it off and the tools out I decided to remove some material in this pocket and open up the gap slightly. Another issue I've had is two studs breaking due to the nuts not sitting fully square against the flange face; One appears to have had a clearance issue with the corresponding nearby runner and the nut connecting just before bottoming out on the flange face leaving a very slight angle to the torque load. Add in heat cycling and you see where this is going. Will have to be reviewed next year.

Got the mixing manifold attached, the new gasket and Gates pump didn't match the NA manifold inlet neck but it still covered the entire thing when they were bolted down.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Dropped the engine in on Wednesday night. Proceeded to get things attached and stressed over getting the rad in but that thing dropped right the hell in. What a relief. Need to find the hardware/bushings for it but that's low priority. Almost there..

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Drilling and tapping the TSE supplied stainless EGR plug (5/8-11 x 5/8") for the EGT compression fitting (1/8 npt). This thing was HARD. I drilled out the bore to 23/64 instead of the 21/64 to relieve the pressure on the tap but ultimately it ended up eating it anyway. I went to the hardware store and got a Nickel 1" bolt as that's the shortest you can get there and cut it to length, drilled it out and tapped it for the fitting. It looks good at first glance but I won't know until the car is run. I will keep a spare bolt on hand to swap it out if it ends up causing issues.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Name: Saki
Born: 6-1-2018

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Mounted the EGT probe, lots of copper anti-seize which admittedly will burn off but hopefully helps keep the threads from galling. Then I went on to make a bracket to mount the OPR to. Needs some finishing touches but I think this will be the location for the time being. I'll be finishing the mount up this afternoon and painting it, dropping the downpipe in.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

It is expensive, but for high temp, nickel based antiseize is best. Can be found at local Ford dealer.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Wiring in the engine bay is done, coolant is filled and topped off with no leaks, oil pressure regulator is mounted up and the wires for EGT, Oil temp and Coolant temp sensors are all run. EGT gets red, white and black, oil gets brown and coolant gets green. I need to address the ECU pinning yet and then put things back in place in the interior so I picked up a crimper tool for 10 bucks and my first pin came out perfect. NICE! ECU gets pinned tonight.

ToDo;
-Cut and attach oil pressure regulator/turbo feed lines
-Downpipe + LC-2
-Review and tighten anything I find loose
-Adjust and upload FM base map in for VVT, adjust for LS coils
-Start ?

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

ECU wires are pinned in for coils and VVT. Picked up a map for the VVT tune and going to plug away at the oil and fuel lines tonight. Might get the downpipe in if I can manage to make time.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

I love your cattle dog. I've had mine for ~6 years, and will be getting another one soon.

Also, great progress on the car!

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Downpipe is mated and torqued at the VBand.

-Need to tighten the downpipe band down bottom and attach the heat shield over the downpipe
-Need to tighten the fuel line fitting (requires priming system to check for leaks)
-Need to run the oil feed/return for the turbo (needed downpipe installed for fitment, routing)

Might be starting tomorrow night, we'll see.. After all that, I have to finish installing the stereo and securing the center console. Trivial work I haven't been motivated to tackle yet.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Not my cleanest work but it will do for now. Oil feed/return lines for the TurboSmart OPR T40. 1 straight fitting, 2 45* fittings, 2 90* fittings and one 180* fitting.

In other news, while the car was sitting the mixing manifold has sprung a leak. I think the gasket is to blame but we shall see later today.. And the crank angle sensor blew up when I tried to set the gap, the plastic must not have aged well. Getting a spare from a friend later today.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Successful start tonight! Need to setup the VVT but the timing is dead on. No leaks from the oil fittings, the mixing manifold weep has been cleared up - I remembered I had left the fittings slightly loose during assembly and after proper torquing no more weep.

To Do;

-Doublecheck wiring and secure things such as the oil lines for the turbo + heat shield for lines
-Stereo reinstall (upgraded HU)
-Install gauges +Install LC-2 for gauges
-Mount new catch can setup and route hoses
-Talk to Jeremy and properly setup VVT on the hydra (cells are grey and can't be adjusted...)

I should have this done by mid-week I hope so I can put some miles on it. Exciting~

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I forgot to mention, while under the car setting gap on the crank sensor, the thing just fell apart in my hands. Found the remnants and it wasn't crushed as the roll pin was still in there, looks like fatigue. Luckily a friend had a spare.

While working on that, I wired in the temp sensors for the VEI gauges. These things are weird and don't have directions for them, the image doesn't do it justice. There's a sensor with a stud on top. Mounted to the stud is a large 1/2" ? Phenolic washer, a regular washer on top of that, a lock washer and lastly a nut. I was advised to put a terminal connector on top of the phenolic washer and the rest on top of that with some locktite on the threads. Additionally, I picked up some fiberglass shielding for the oil feed lines for the turbo, I only have them ziptied for the moment until I get my hands on proper heat shrink. I have an old rubber covered heatshield I will be putting over the heater core lines when I park the car for the season.

Lastly I worked on the interior. Radio is in, tested and sounds great. Wiring was fished and spliced for the gauges, tested things out and they work great. Need to setup the temp gauges as they just report LO at the moment though.

ToDo;

-Mount Catch cans
-Top off fluids
-Undertray and peripheral parts

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Looks like my Hydra did not have the VVT function unlocked. I have reached out to HydraEMS but Phil is on the road to a race so it may be a little bit before it's unlocked..

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Undertray is on. I took the coolant overflow tank off and cleaned it out best I could because it was getting tough to read. I ordered a Cappuccino washer tank to re-locate the washer tank so I have more room for my new catch cans.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

I'm planning to do the relocate shortly for exactly the same reason. Strong work so far. I've really enjoyed following along from the cheap seats.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.

Any suggestions on why my VEI AFR gauge is reading 1.1-1.4 higher than the wideband for my ECU? At 13:1 on the ECU I am reading 14.1-14.4:1 for instance. I have already calibrated the VEI gauge with 7.4 and 22.4 but that didn't affect the readings. My ECU wideband is post-cat in the midpipe and the LC-2 is in the downpipe narrowband bung, having never messed with this I assume there will be some variance but would it really be this high? This is only at idle mind you, I only just a few hours ago got the car back on all four wheels and it's... 38* outside so no driving until sunup. :(

I might sand down the ground some more and test the continuity over lunch..

Edit; Fuel is E85 (more precisely, 71% Ethanol)