Just got a lead on a 0miles rebuilt 6speed that was for a car that was parted out for 700... Thinking about this and a 3.6 gearset eventually. Gonna buy it methinks. :party:

After that and ID1300 injectors I think gauges, seats and harnesses are out for this year :(

Ordered Injectors and pump hardwire kit from Fab9, also picking up the 6spd transmission tonight. I put together a checklist of things to do prior to the trip

-Install pump hardwire kit
-Replace reroute tube and resecure - The aluminum tube rubbed against the throttle bracket and wore down a bit but didn't fail
-Check clearance on lifters (post-breakin check) - want to make sure that one lifter is still sitting at .008"ish - I have a strange tapping above 5k, may be that lifter may not be. Largely silent at idle save for the typical solid lifter tapping.
-Swap to 6speed
-Swap in twin disc clutch
-Swap in FM manifold+6758+downpipe as well as hardlines - Trying to figure out a filter solution right now. Doubt that the FM air filter box will work but I think I can possibly cut the silicone elbow short.
-Get 3" catback fabbed
-Drive car for 2-3 days to iron out any missed things, loose connectors etc.
-Swapping injectors to the id1300 at FM, don't want to deal with fuel map weirdness on the drive. I'd love to see 25mpg on the trip w/ cruise -- The very low vac cells are a little rich so I may dial those down as well.

All of this prior to 6-19 so if anything is missed or needs to be ordered I have a week to get it in before the trip. This is gonna be a tight deadline :party: Anyone know what a set of DW1000s recently cleaned would go for? :P

6 Speed: Acquired

I'm getting speaker whine from my alternator out of the radio, I love tracking down ground faults :(

In other news I'll be going to Colorado for the weekend (sadly, not in the Miata) so I've got that going for me :party:

Picked up the 6speed last night, and got confirmation the injectors are shipped; ETA 5-25. Need to figure out what fluid I'll be running, my friend's been running something by Amsoil and the seller advised half MTL and half Anti-Shock. Decisions..

0 miles 6speed, rebuilt per seller. Local AutoX member and friend-of-a-friend so I'm confident it's legit. Excite! :D
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1463768725

That is indeed a good find!

Still need to meet for a beer and hang out. I almost made it out to the autocross but family need overcame my want. :)

Take care ,T. :)

Back from our mini-vacation, boy are those mountain roads the best things ever. Climbing up the incline I had to keep the poor Saturn in 2nd or 3rd to stay in the torque band. Just not enough torque in that little SOHC engine.

In other news, I picked up the injectors today. Very different appearance compared to my DW1000s, almost look like they don't belong in my car :) - I ordered wiring harnesses to go with the injectors but got plugs and terminal ends instead of pigtails, perhaps this was an oversight? Or maybe this is all they offer? I'm sure FM can crimp terminal fittings while putting these in though. Drove the car today, temps in the high 80s and I found in stop and go traffic my coolant gauge was starting to inch right, may need to adjust my fan kickon times. First issue I've had with any overheating, maybe I'll swap out coolant for water+wetter..

So I guess I need a shifter for this 6spd as the 5spd wont work, debating getting an extension as well as I have been having issues misshifting 2->5 instead of 2->3 under boost. Any suggestions from anyone? Not looking for drifter-spec bendy huge shifters, but not misshifting would be nice :)

Miataroadster angled short shifter. I love mine. A couple of guys at the MOWOG group that ran inside my car said they'd be going out and buying one too because of how it felt.

AMSOIL in the trans, then a proper bled clutch, and properly adjusted. If you still miss shifts after that, you:

1. You Aren't pushing the clutch all the way I during shift, because in a hurry
2. You have Trans. Problem (less likely in 4 gears)
3. Your expecting the 6 speed to shift like a 5. It doesn't. It's ow and clunky.

The gates aren't as far apart as I would like, either. I haven't dropped $300+ on the magical shifter, but even guys who have bought it miss up or down shifts sometimes.

And it isn't the oil, it's finding the slot while pulling G's on track. It takes precision and discipline I must be lacking on occasion (no surprise).

I had the extended, angled, miata roadster shift kit in my 2001 6 speed, full amsoil fluids, still would GRIND into 2nd, I miss shifted very often, then 7200rpm vibrated something loose in the shift rod (maybe a set screw) and then i had 4 or 5 times the slop in the shifter.

Getting the trans rebuilt with cryotreated and coated gears and synchros, hardened shift fork, brass shifter components instead of any bushing material, AND trying out ford motorcraft synthetic... I'll know in a month or so how that helps.

I just backed out the switch that the clutch lever lands on, all the way out, then readjust clutch rod. Gained an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch of pedal movement. Solved mine 95%.

Ended up ordering the MiataRoadster tall slanted shifter after trying a friends out in an evo, I'm interested to see how it'll feel in the Miata :o

The next few weeks are going to be high stress; need to get the shifter from MiataRoadster and the downpipe and turbo lines from TSE, swap in the 6spd and twin disc clutch as well as get the car to the exhaust shop to get things fabbed. All of this must be completed no later than the 22nd of June. Here's hoping things pan out. :eek4dance

Vacation time is locked in, tickets for the concert are as well. Anyone have any scenic routes in the area along highway 70 towards GJ? Things to do around Palisade would be nice as well as the car will be at FM for two straight days :P

Deadlines. What is this, Gas Monkey Garage? Why can't you slow it down a bit, drink some beer, and have a pleasant time?

In my experience, rushing breeds the words "aww screw it, it's good enough ".

I have had two MR shifters. The short one in my 04 MSM and the tall, angled one in my 01. The shifter is miles and miles better than the stock ones in both. The MSM shifter was very tight and very notchy, while the the 01 shifter is considerably looser, but also requires much less force to get into gear. I think it is just the transmissions that vary, it isn't really the shifters fault. My two six speeds felt completely different and the MR improved both of them for the better.

Don't forget to adjust the twin disc properly. I made a throttle stop out of a bolt with a huge nut welded to it.

Hah I know what you mean, I had planned to just go down for the concert on the 1st but the idea of taking the car down after driving the Saturn was too great a temptation. I plan to take my time on this though, hopefully I remember to take pictures during the work this time :P I know you know a thing or two about patience though with your wait for that powdercoat.

I've heard a lot of great things about it, did you have any complaints about the angled one? It's going to block my 2din radio, might be a deal breaker~~

Can you please clarify what needs to be done to adjust this? Is it as easy as just moving the engagement adjustment stuff on the assembly in the car? If there's something I need to know in advance I probably don't know. New to the whole twin disc crowd but I'm pretty excited to get it in gear *cough*

The only reason I still have my 01 is because of that shifter. It is the best shifter I have ever had in any car, ever. The car around it is beat-up, shitty, and the engine has a random misfire that will not go away, but I keep it just because of the shifter.

The only thing that the shifter will block should be your HVAC controls. That is also only in 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. I still have the stock Bose stereo in there, though, so I can't claim for sure that it won't block your stereo...

So, clutch pedal has been moving up the last few weeks, I bled the line just to be certain and flushed the res and refilled with dot4. Lotta grey/black came out, I'll have to do that more often. No change on the pedal or engagement position. I've read up that this usually means the disk is donezo, but I've never had to diagnose the clutch before. Can I adjust out the lever on the pedal to get more out of the clutch? Or am I asking for trouble here?

You can adjust the pedal to move the clutch engagement, I've done it before. It's easy, two 12mm wrenches, pull seat, and do it.

Here is my stopper for the clutch. It uses a hole thats already there, but drilled out to fit an M10 bolt.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465670521
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465670521
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465670521
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465670521
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465670521
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465670521

Engine is pulled, got the clutch off. Need to massage the transmission plate to make room for the 6spd, clean up the back of the engine and slap things back in. Got a clutch line coming from TSE to replace the curlyQ on Wednesday, so that's when I plan to start putting the engine back in. I've got until then to get the 6spd installed, hoping I can pull it without dropping the butterfly brace. :P

Need to start considering an intermediary downpipe and figuring out the oil/water lines in the mean time in case timing doesn't line up. I still have my soft lines from FM, I'm hoping they'll mount up otherwise IDK what I'll do. Can I use the same oil drain fitting on my Garrett turbo on the BW turbo? Don't want to re-engineer things when I have replacement lines coming.

Exhausted, but I have made progress. I got the old turbo off, the EFR connected and clocked and the clutch mounted. Few things I need to remember;

-Need a new exhaust manifold gasket
-Temporary 3' turbo oil feed line w/ 90* end - FM 2' line is too short and comes w/in an inch of the turbine housing. TSE hardware may not be here in time so I'll need a bandaid in the mean time.
-Determine Oil Return bracket compatability - Fitting used on my turbo may work w/ EFR? Unsure but would be ideal. Gasket required?
-Replace heater core feed hose, oil weakened. Return is OK.
-My turbo coolant soft lines are pretty beat up, may need new lines and banjo fittings...

Twin disk installed, had to pull it once to make sure the tool moved freely. Easymode after that. You can see the trimmed starter ear on the transmission plate, like this it still seals the transmission and also allows me to install an NB starter if I choose. Doesn't appear to require additional modifications.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465896419Turbo install trial fit, still need an exhaust manifold gasket. Check out the valve cover/turbo contrast!https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465896419

Sweet clutch man! Looks like one the organic disc model. Made from unicorn hoof and Tyranasaurus scrotum.

Indeed! Very lightly used and at long last being installed! I've been anticipating it since the Japan trip :D First time I torqued it down the tool wouldn't slide back out, glad I checked and adjusted it again or I'd be fighting installing it on the transmission for hours, it's much easier to move now.

In other news, ordered water lines, fittings, oil drain hardware and a manifold gasket. A lot of this is temporary hardware until I put the TSE gear on. Seeing as I don't know when it'll be ready yet I'll just get things running until they're ready to install and I have some time again. I'll torque things down once I get the gasket, until than I will be swapping out the transmission. Gotta fab up the clutch stop, too.

More info on your timing cover please

It's the Maruha carbon timing cover. I cut off the valve cover's timing belt guard and had the machine shop grind down the leftovers until it was flush with the back wall of the timing belt area as seen in above pic. Easily removable and no risk of eating a rock being stupid and jumping teeth. Wasn't even very expensive, I wanna say it was like 175 + machine work to valve cover. Ordered it with my cams to save on shipping.

I wonder if I'll have to hole saw the intake side for vvt to poke through

Pulled the 5spd out tonight, not gonna get the driveshaft in with the transmission installed with the PPF+butterfly still up there, not gonna remove em either. Gonna try installing it with the DS pushed back as far as it can go - so far looks like I have more room than I need. Gonna try to fight in the 6spd tomorrow if I can, need to figure out a solution for the difference between the NA bullet connectors and NB connector.. Planned to try that tonight but had a gear fluid spill that took up an hour of the night to clean up..

Cut off the nb, install bullet connector. Done. That's all I did.

^ Did just that, wish I didn't have to but meh! It's a clean connection now.

- 6Speed is now in the car after gorilla-ing it in from under the car with Lacey's help. Cleaned up the driveshaft and got everything bolted down.
- Shifter gets here tomorrow from USPS, can't wait to get it installed. :party:
- EFR manifold had some clearance issues on the studs/nut/manifold area. The top nuts wouldn't sit quite flush with the surface of the flange on a few studs with a visible gap between the stud and the flange. I had to pull the manifold back off and hit it with a wheel grinder and shaved the nut/flange contact area down until they sat flush with the flange. One area still had a small gap but only on a small portion of the nut's surface wasn't making contact. A couple minor issues that I'll let TSE know about so they can look into it. I don't expect this to be a problem, but I'll keep a 14mm in the car for a few days just in case.
- Going to trailer the car to the exhaust shop tomorrow night, since the coolant bits wont be here in time to do that tonight I expect I might be doing that and the oil return tomorrow before we move the car so I can drive it back home.
- Still trying to figure out if I will be able to use my current filter setup, hopefully I can get the engine in tonight and mated to the transmission, if I can get that far I think I can get the rest of it finished, but that damn heat...

Currently 94* outside, I'm going to wait a few hours before I go outside.

Engine installed, 4 17mm bolts holding things together. Looks like I may need to figure out a filter solution, the elbow from my FM2 kit wont quite fit. Considering cutting it back to see if I can squeeze it in, but I may need a filter-only solution for now.

Can't sleep. Hammered the stock cooling tube attachment bracket down some to clearance the charge pipe. Gotta remember to drill the welds and remove that. Tried to figure out the intake duct a little more, but I don't think the FM pipe will work at all, at least not with the headlight motor in place. :P

Ordered an AEM 21-2011DK as it fits the opening I have (~7.5" max diameter, 7" max length) at 5.5" diameter by 6 5/8" - May have to mash it around a bit to clearance things. Ordered a K&N PVC filter too, wanted to retain the hose to intake connection but ultimately I just don't have time to figure it out. Tonight I'll finish installation and trailer it to the exhaust shop if I can get ahold of a trailer. Intake stuff will be here Wednesday.

God damnit. I found my missing FM package on my neighbors steps, no wonder I couldn't find the stuff. I want to say I'll have everything finished tonight, with any luck that will be the case.

Some pictures I have been neglecting to attach; Clutch pedal stopper, charge pipe position and turbo location images.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1466453472

Tap the little flange on the framerail with a hammer and you can bend it down a little.

^ Forgot to do that before I put the turbo on, I'll smash it down next time I take it off. Luckily the silicone hose handles the relocation of the turbo nicely, there's a very minor bulge around the first bend in the charge pipe that was there with the old turbo too so I don't think I'll worry about it now.

Anyway, I'm exhausted. Spent all night with Lacey in the Garage getting things up and running. To do:

-Install shifter (ran out of time tonight)
-Turbo coolant lines
-Turbo oil lines
-Fill coolant
-Change oil (filter is already done)

Then it's off to get the exhaust fabbed up. The trailer was supposed to show up tonight but there was no answer so I'm hoping I can avoid renting a trailer

Regarding the trip, we'll be staying in Colorado Springs with her sister for a few days, will be nice to save a bit on hotel costs after this Miata parts binge. Going to AirBnB this time, since we had a good experience in Denver in 2015. Going to delay leaving a day so I can focus on making sure nothing's loose or leaking before I head out.

It's amazing that this fits the FM piping. I was trying to mimic this with my setup to no avail since the artech is located higher and further forward. good progress.

On the EFR, are you able to just rotate the compressor housing or does the wastegate just mount to the back?

That location looks promising, I may be able to reuse my BEGi pipes... Though your solution looks way easier.

You have balls. When I first got my turbo going, I drove around with 2 fire extinguishers and never left town for a week.

If you go to Colo Springs, drive up Pike's Peak while you are there. 14,110 feet and overlooks the city.

Compressor housing is independent of the wastegate canister mounting position. The flange at the back is drilled for several locations to accommodate the clocking of the turbing housing, but the compressor housing can rotate any which way so long as the core stays within 20° of vertical.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425056172

Psyber: I have to crawl under the car, I have a concern that the front near the IC is kinked; I have no confirmation mind you, but I want to look to make sure because I can't remember if I actually checked there. The hose is very buckle resistant, the length helps a lot. Their silicone hoses are very robust though and I flex and bend these things every which way; didn't even have to remove them to pull the engine, just (carefully) shove them out of the way.

Six: Oh man, that's a great idea. Though I think I may only go to the end of pavement unless the gravel is in good condition. I'll have to GoPro some of the drives :-)

I haven't verified that the WGA and WG don't bind (can't dial the pressure down enough..) but it's not far from where it was positioned out of the box. It's gonna feel so weird not having my heat shielding for the filter and the MC/Booster. I want to try to solve that when I get the car back from the exhaust shop.

Pikes Peak international hill climb is this weekend 6/26/16 .....

I think it is pavement almost all the way now, or am I remembering the tv coverage wrong? None of it was paved back when I lived there. We hiked up the face from Manitou Springs to the summit and back. I never went to the top by car. It was a 3 day hike.

Everything's done, coolant is in and short shifter installed. I had a hangup with the bushing that was sent with the shifter, it didn't fit in the spot that the factory bushing fits. I had to take the bushing off the base of the stock shifter and move it over for now. I'll have to call Bill in the AM, maybe I got the wrong bushing with my kit? The black tophat piece I'm supposed to put in there is like 1/8-3/16" too big. :o

You got the big ball shifter kit. In the fine print on the shifter page you can read about it. Basically the 6 speed had 2 different size shifter balls over the years. The Mr short shifter all use the small ball, but you can get 2 different sized bushings. You have the big ball bushing and a small ball trans.

^ Makes total sense, the thing was rebuilt for a guy's track beast before being sold to the guy who sold it to me. I think the shifter bushing part(s) were swapped out with an earlier year transmission maybe? The VIN reflects a 2004 so I'm not sure what the deal is. Regardless I emailed Bill.

Took all night but the car has been moved. The dolly and my GV front lip did not agree, had to pull it to get the car on the tire cradles. There's some damage on the edges that need to be glued back in place. Lucky me I have easy access to epoxy.

Exhaust shop has not finished the downpipe yet, I offered them a little extra to get things finished before the trip. Bah!

Holy shit guys, it's hot as hell out. 105* index and HUMID AS HELL. I have almost everything buttoned up, put the dei heat shield back on. Some of the rivets are failing, I was able to secure them for now but I'll have to use wire to secure them to the holder at a later date. Had issues driving the car as I didn't have a stop, but once I get going it's not bad really. Start from a stop is insane, mostly because I was having issues modulating the pedal. This adjustment should help a lot.

Finally cooled off, back out into the inferno I go.

Alright! After an almost 22h drive we made it to our destination in Colorado. I borrowed a friends hardtop (strikers don't fit w/ my roll bar..) and boy was that a quiet ride. I'm buying one of these things. Grand Junction is a nice place, not a lot of tolerance for a weak cooling system though. The car started climbing in temp as we approached the mountains. Halfway up highway 70 to the downhill section my temps actually started to peg the needle; we pulled over and I used the diag box to lock the fan into ON - Combined with using the heater we could manage to keep the temps down, but it was a challenge.

After talking with Jeremy we opted to put in a crossflow radiator and to remove my oil cooler. I added in their SPAL fan kit with the biggest motors I can fit. Since I don't have A/C I considered swapping the oil cooler to in front of the radiator later on in place of the condenser. I also have been considering something someone did with a 3d printer putting the cooler in front of the passenger tire. Really liked that idea, puts the cooler out of the way and reduces chances of overheating.

I'll take pics and post them later, Monday was mostly a sleep and relax day. After this trip I've been considering putting A/C back in though... We'll see how I feel in 85+ weather without running the heater at max to keep the car cool. :party:

I have returned from Colorado! The trip was quite fruitful, the drive was beautiful as well. One thing I can definitely say is it's HOT. Humidity typically in the teens lets you be active (in the shade) though and stay mostly dry lol.

- On the way home from work the week before the trip, I encountered THIS scene... WAT. Driving by, I still couldn't make out how they ended up upside down, maybe taking the corner too quick and got rear ended? Also found out the exhaust was not going to be finished in time. Made some calls to see if I could get it fabbed elsewhere but ultimately paid the guy a little extra labor to finish it Friday night and picked it up the following morning.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Here's the engine bay mostly buttoned up (oil/water lines, some other misc work) for the most part, being prepped for trailering to the exhaust shop to get a downpipe fabbed up. I actually didn't notice the vacuum routing being wrong on the turbo, luckily I had no desire to boost with Lacey and all of our clothes in the car or a WOT would have made some crazy boost. Or it would, the WGA can was binding up at 1/3 open so it never closed. I had to really try to make boost. FM clocked the turbo and adjusted the WG can a little and found the can was hitting the hoot support so that had to be cut out a bit. The FM2 silicone hose held up well, the tiny amount of buckling from making it go where it doesn't belong gets blown round again when I hit boost so it's hardly noticeable.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422
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- Here's the manifold after about 500 miles, the behavior seen here is typical and I was advised it would do this. It's some portion of the coating working it's way out of the coating as part of the curing process, they didn't clarify what it was. All of this material flakes right off with minimal pressure. The coloration changed to a darker shade on the coating, this was also something they advised would happen over time.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Not the prettiest piping but it works!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- After dropping the car off at FM, Jeremy took me for a tour of the shop. I stopped by an Exxocet and snapped this picture from the tire contacting the chassis; my friend recently got one and commented that this could happen with not enough offset, but man is that a lot of deflection! Someone was having fun :-)
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Took this picture while walking up Highway(?) 6 to the Texas Roadhouse for some steak. Took 25 minutes and the sun was brutal the entire walk. Sunscreen highly advised!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Got a nice ice cold Margarita while at the Roadhouse, they throw in a shot of Patrone for $2 so hell WHY NOT?!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Snapped this in Colorado Springs after picking up the car and heading immediately there from FM. I had ZERO issues with overheating and the car ran like a champ. She ran very smooth even in the 90* heat and driving on asphalt. Don't mind the green tape, I forgot to remove it before leaving.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Visiting Garden of the Gods near Colorado Springs on Friday (7-1) with Lacey and her sister's family. This place is beautiful. Lots of space to hike and climb the rock formations. I'll be returning here.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Arrived a little late to our show due to traffic and rain coming from Colorado Springs. Sitting at Red Rocks listening to Shpongle before Beats Antique and the view was amazing. You can see Denver from where we were sitting though the camera failed to pick it up. At night the view was amazing. It was raining off and on during the show but not enough to get us to leave. Food was ridiculously expensive though, even for venue food. $32 for two footlong chilli-cheese dogs, chips, a Coors (ehhhhh) and a Pepsi. Not my idea of value.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- Found this guy had been rubbing on the filter and almost wore through; this line runs from the BOV from my FM2 kit, T's and runs over (under the filter) to the EFR BOV, and then to the CC module after going through a check valve. The CC module might need a vacuum canister after the check valve so it can operate better in the mountains. Worked great everywhere else. You can see the big SPAL motor and some of the crossflow rad in this picture.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- And now the part everyone is waiting for... I got an (uncorrected for the 4000' elevation difference) dyno comparison 91 vs e85. Check out those numbers! 346hp/279tq @ 208kpa on 91 octane and 428hp/338tq @ 230kpa on e85 - WOW! There's more room on the injectors too. The EBC has been setup and maintains boost very well, almost flat from target to redline. Typically I use PSI when I measure boost so I'll have to figure out what that corresponds to. I did a quick log on 91 and made 19psi, so probably mid to low 20s for e85?

At home (800' elevation) the spool moves left a great deal, I didn't get a chance to push the car yet but I was hitting boost at least what felt like 1k rpm sooner. Definitely lost a lot of the lag I was seeing up in the mountains. Shifting WOT->WOT the boost comes on almost instantly. I think dialing out a little more of the cams overlap (probably a deg or so each) will yield more spool as well as vacuum. Curious how increasing the LSA above 115 will affect things. :party: I need to get an After dyno done at the same shop that did my tuning for the 2560 so I have a true 1:1 comparison at some point. Had to buy another o2 sensor because the one they bought for me (per Jeremy) was grey market, it calibrates but the idle AFR was off while running (14.0 vs 14.7). I really don't like this bit though, was not expecting to buy another sensor..
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

- There's also a comparison of my setup (Uncorrected) vs the FM2 2560 setup on 91 octane. It's not a true 1:1 as mentioned but it gives you a good idea.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467751422

Now I sit at work and make money to pay off all of this work, eagerly waiting for my lunch hour. I'll take some logs while out and about so I can get a better idea of what my boost builds like on e85 since I switched last night. Oh, and my K&N PCV breather filter over the exhaust manifold has been getting.... melty. Not quite failure temps but it gets mighty soft and bendy. Is there a one I can find that will withstand heat a little better? I might have to make a heat shield to protect it at some point.

Oh, and the epoxy wont hold on the GV front lip, so we'll be riveting the cracked sections to aluminum sheet to secure it in place. Janky, but it'll work until I get a replacement.​ Now I gotta get things prepped to sell the old turbo and gear to recoup some of this money :party:

Good gawd man! The cams seem to open up some serious power!

Yeah, at 115 LSA I still think I can make power over 7500 RPM but I can't prove it until I get on a dyno. For now I'll play around and enjoy things. :party:

Oh, I had the wrong (too big) poly bushing from MR for the short shifter, I was using the OEM one for the trip and boy was it sloppy. I missed the 3-4 gate and hit 3-2 twice yesterday while trying to shift quickly (stretching my legs) revving to just over redline in one case, thankfully the engine is overbuilt and handled it like a champ. I even see more vacuum now (WAT?). Put the correct one in last night and the drive to work today was MASSIVELY improved on shifting, I can get it into each gate much easier, though going from 4 to 5 or 6 still sucks, I'd rather have reverse to the left of 1-2 like a VW. :P

I'm really looking forward to seeing the local dyno plot. It looks great - except for the torque!

I did a similar trip to yours but with my parents in a Hyundai Elantra so I know how gutless cars can be in the altitude, but I am really surprised to see the 200lb/ft threshold crossed so late in the RPM band.

Did FM let you do the radiator install in their shop since you bought it all from them? Did they do the work or did you do it yourself? I am running a mishimoto radiator as well and it may be contributing to my cooling problems.

264/264 cams will do that. Great for top end power, not so much for the low end. Any comparison to a setup with stock cams is 100% apples to oranges. :party:

All work was completed by FM; ideally I would have installed things myself but TBH, the work they did looks really clean. It's unlikely they would let me use their shop and I was NOT looking forward to installing things in the 100* sun. I would have installed things myself beforehand however I had never had issues with overheating before. And I also hadn't taken by front lip off either.

The tune does need more work, Jeremy wanted more work to iron things out but I ran out of time. My friend needs to get his Exxocet tuned, I've been trying to talk him into cruising down there with both our cars so we can both get ours tuned. "That's a lot of time in the race suit and helmet..." heh :party:

^ This. The cams need to be adjusted to gain more spool and midrange, I expected lower bottom end than normal. My goal was always to push the redline to somewhere around 8k hence the springs, valves, cams, etc. I know this turbo can flow more so I can just dial up the boost to flatten out torque and keep HP on the up and up. That's the goal at least, since the other cams I can source are the same size base circle I can always swap cams, set lash and experiment. Expensive since it requires a tune adjustment, so I probably wont get to this for a long while. The lower torque should I believe also help keep me from breaking the 6speed gears too.

Just got an email a few hours ago from Jeremy, he was looking at my TPS signal and found the signal was... less than stable. This never showed up on my logs, but the issue was rare enough to come up that I likely just never caught it;

My old sensor:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467760020

After he replaced it with one from salvage:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1467760020