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From Germany with Ladedruck
PROLOG:
Hey guys, as already stated i will try to document my adventure of the turbomiata or mx 5 as it is called here in Europe. First of all a bit of history. My first car was a silver Mazda MX 5 1.6 NB. I bought the car for 2200€ from a used car Dealership in Gelsenkirchen. (What was i thinking :bang:). I can´t even remember how i got thinking about buying an MX5. My Dad has always been a V8 Muscle kinda guy. I think at the time he owned a Corvette C6. I needed the car for driving to work in my apprenticeship. So my dad tried to be the voice of reason. Guess what ... that didn´t work out. But being a car guy himself he understood that i had found a cheap and fun solution to my car needs. So i took the car on a testdrive at night and in the rain with my dad on the passenger seat. I was instanly in love with the way the car handled. All my friends were kinda making fun of my newly aquired "Barbie Car". They didn´t see the RWD, 50/50 weight balance, 1.6 liter rev-happy, 110hp driving machine. Well fuck those guys anyway. (one of those guys actually bought himself a Mx5 after seeing how well the car drives). Back to the NB! Turns out the car was complete trash. Different locks on both sides, splittered glass inside the drivers door and a color wich didn´t match the color of the title were just the top of the iceberg. The car burned a lot of oil. Like a real lot of oil. Like 1 liter every gasstop lot of oil. I had lots of fun with the car and got my first sidway action going. After not checking the oil one time a valve decided that it couldn´t take anymore in-n-out action without proper lubrication (RIP). So i was stuck with a broken car. Even though it was a shitheap i still miss the thing quite a bit.Here is a little video of it. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...U50MUdMWHVmakU . Long story short i sold my beloved Cbr600RR to get the cash and buy a new car. Having learnd from my mistakes i bought another Mazda MX5. But this time it was MK1. 1.6 115hp and Pop up Headlights.Long story short: Loved the car, drove it for 2 Years fixing various Problems, wanted to go Turbo, cant because no money for regestration fees in Germany. Then i found a MK1 with all the registration bs already done! Bought it right away. Getting tha Boost: So here i am. Once again owner of another MX 5. But this time i haz turbrooooo. The car is 1996 1.6 90HP MX 5. The 90HP Version is basicly the same with the 115HP Version exept it has lower compression, a different ecu, and different camshafts. It is equipped with a greddy turbokit which was probably installed by the second owner in 1997. He took care of declaring the modificatons at the Tüv. In contras to the standard greddy kit this one is equipped with some sort of Audi intercooler and an Audi pop off. It runs on the stock ECU with just the RRFPR taking care of proper fueling. I dont know what the timing is set to but i belive it has been retarded to somwhat like 6 Deegrees BTDC. Further more i have no clou what kind of boost pressure iam producing. I ordered a boost gauge wich unfortunatly got destroyed while beeing deliverd, so i will have to wait a bit to find out. Previous owner told me it was running 0.3 Bar (equals 4,35113 PSI) which sounds about right for the greddy kit. Here is a quick shot of the engine bay. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...418050376e.jpg Yeah i know, the heatshield is a bit hacked. But hey! I didn´t do that!. For the now it does its job. The first thing i did to the car was taking of the fenders and looking for rust. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...baa7cb3a2c.jpg Looked managable. So i organized a garage to work in. After cleaning up in the garage i had a place to wrench without annoying my room\housemates by taking both parkingspots in the carport. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1d5206fac.jpeg My NA mazda in the garage. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b17543ba2b.jpg After grinding it down and applying rust stop primer. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4104e7533.jpeg This is the stuff i used. worked out quite well i think. I could see the former rustpots being "converted". https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...271032ceae.jpg After the 3rd coat of paint it started to look alright. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5656eb82b9.jpg On this picture you see the tapped oilpan. Iam still confused about what kind of plug this is (Sombody who has an idea?) . I want to replace the turbo oil outlet with a braided line. Not a big fan of pumping hot oil through plastic hoses.... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eeff5369e.jpeg Got a fire extinguisher just in case! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0ebd497fbf.jpg Glorious wiring from someone before me. Take a look at that prestine grounding. Yep that is the black wire wich goes to a terminal strip which then becomes a wire which was slung around the Dashbar. :dunno: i wonder why nothing works. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6dac9b7c98.jpg Redid the wiring, everything running again. Exept the oiltemp. I have since then Wired a new ground to the sensor, maybe this fixes it. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...26124cb229.jpg Installed the beautiful Apexi EL Boost Gauge. Sucks that it´s broken:mad: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f9477dd6.jpeg Hooked it up here. Is that the correct way to do it or should i switch to the back of the manifold? Well that´s it for now. I will try to keep this up to date. Build progress is mostly dependend on my income and my money spending habits.:2cents: If you have red this far: Thank you! I hope to get some feedback and suggestions for my build. I plan to go standalone ecu. But before that i want to get a good baseline. Next big purchase will probably be a AEM X Series WB. So i can monitor my AFR. Since im running an intercooler i might get away with turning up the boost a couple psi and/or playing with the basetiming while keeping the afr´s in focus. After going standalone clutch,flywheel and diff will most likely be the nexts steps in the search for more boost.(Rip money) Till then: much todo before cranking up the boost. PS: Please take it easy on grammar, and spelling. * Cheers |
Sieht gut aus und willkommen! :)
Few random comments you may find useful: -To keep rust away in the rear please check if the watering holes in the rear sill at the jacking points are free and check if the hood drain tubes are free (but I guess you already did) -There are quite a few differences between European MX-5's and US Miata's. Diffs and ratios is one of them: so please pay attention to this when looking for a diff! As far as I know, all 1.8 (sometimes called 1.9 in Germany) 5 speed NBs (1999-2000) came with a 4.1 Torsen, at least my MX-5 1.8 from Germany did :) And your plan to start with the ECU and clutch seems a very good idea, I would have done the same. And your language is fine, don't worry! Keep posting! |
Thank you for reading DaWan,
rust in the rear is a whole other story. The right sill was done badly by the po to pass the inspection. I will probably have to get that done by a professional since i only have an electrionic welder and no fabrication skills. For now the car is in the dry so i don´t worry about it to much, but for the future i want this car to be done right. Front drain holes are clear, will check the other ones though when im at the garage the next time. For the diff´s i am looking for the 4.1 Torsen. This is rather far down on the list because going standalone comes with a few other things i need to take care of like new injectors, new tps, iat sensor. I also want to do a coolant reroute to keep the temps in a safe level and prevent cylinder 4 from overheating and seizing under more boost. As already stated i am now in the process of baslining the care for future performance upgrades. Doing maintanance first is a part of this :( . Not the most fun but will keep me happy in the long run. Cheers |
Your turbo drain lines in the picture are rubber, not plastic, so they are not likely to melt unless there is a fire.
Speaking of fire, when you have an accident your fire extinguisher will become a projectile and likely cause serious injury. I do not like the way it is mounted. Mount it in the trunk since that is a wall mount holder and not designed for movements or impacts. Or buy one with a better mount and secure it in the passenger footwell or down low behind the passenger seat somewhere. Please don't turn the boost up until you have a standalone. Having an idea what the AFR's are is good but being able to control the timing properly is critical as the manifold pressure increases. Detonation is too easy with unknown timing. "ECU erste." EDIT: Near Muenster (no umlaut on my keyboard)? You are way up north. There's someone on the forum here from across the border in Enschede, NL and a few others around Deutschland and NL. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1463121)
Your turbo drain lines in the picture are rubber, not plastic, so they are not likely to melt unless there is a fire.
Speaking of fire, when you have an accident your fire extinguisher will become a projectile and likely cause serious injury. I do not like the way it is mounted. Mount it in the trunk since that is a wall mount holder and not designed for movements or impacts. Or buy one with a better mount and secure it in the passenger footwell or down low behind the passenger seat somewhere. Please don't turn the boost up until you have a standalone. Having an idea what the AFR's are is good but being able to control the timing properly is critical as the manifold pressure increases. Detonation is too easy with unknown timing. "ECU erste." EDIT: Near Muenster (no umlaut on my keyboard)? You are way up north. There's someone on the forum here from across the border in Enschede, NL and a few others around Deutschland and NL. |
Originally Posted by TobiKi
(Post 1463136)
Okey, thanks again for the input. So i shouldn´t be worried about the oil drain? And you are right about the fire extinguisher. Mostlikely much more of a security hazard then benifit. I will check if i can mount it in the trunk. Boostbug bit me but i will try to follow your advice "ecu erste" :D Thanks again
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^What he said. The second most important thing about a drain hose is that it doesn't have a "belly" in it that holds fluid. It should drain completely and not block airflow.
The first most important thing is that it is made of material that won't fail, and you have that. |
Subed. Good luck with your Build. But really mount your fire extinguisher on another place or get a real one with a good quick release
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Quick Update.
I have reassembled the car after fixing up the front sills. I drove it a couple of times and now i have a better feel for the car. Only thing that annoys me is the fmu. You can feel it dumping gasoline into the engine at around 3k, wich makes the motor run kind of wonky. When boost builds at like 4k i dont notice it anymore. But it still feels like its losing power on the top end. Other than that it runs pretty nice. I think the cheap audi pop off is leaking air. It makes a "whoosing" sound when stepping on to the accellerator a bit. Thinking about junking it and just run without a blow off. Bought a rollbar that i wanted to install on the weekend but it turned to a total shitshow. Turns out there was already something mounted in the car previously. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fab16cda1.jpeg I have no idea what. Someone welded threads onto the chassis. After removing the softtop from the car i cut the headrest (?) to make room for the rollbar. Turns out that when the rollbar is in, the seatbelt holder things (lost for words right here) are hitting the rollbar. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ad16b4886.jpeg The next fuckup is that i cannot mount my hardtop because the latches hit the bar aswell. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b158491e2.jpeg Sooooo i ripped the rollbar out again. The manufacturer told me now that the bar can only be used with aftermarket harnesses and the hartop latches need to be cut. It was actually my fault that i did not research before i bought the thing. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c5b359a9c.jpeg I ordered Fluid Film to undercoat the car and coat the inside of the rear sills. I took a peek with an endoscope through the hole in the inside (behind the seats) and of coures the sill wich was "repaired" by the po is already rusting again. Iam thinking about giving it to a shop to get that fixed as i do not have any welding machines nor skills. I think the next upgrade will be a me221 ecu and an aem x series wideband + new injectors. Im hopeing this gives me more drivabillity by controllig the afr´s better and also being able to run a better timing map. Maybe i will order a clutch and flywheel at the same time. But i am worried that i will blow up my stock diff chasing more boost. Also i need to take care of cooling. Would a coolent reroute be more efficient than buying a bigger alloy radiator? I am really struggling with getting a list of upgrades and in what order i should go before running more power. Maybe anyone has had a similar experience and can share his ways. Cheers https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...26f9c9007.jpeg |
Herzlich Wilkommen. Sieht gut aus aber die Kabelbinder für den Feuerlöscher? Echt?
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1469229)
Herzlich Wilkommen. Sieht gut aus aber die Kabelbinder für den Feuerlöscher? Echt?
But thanks for mentioning it again😅 |
Where did you get the roll bar from? Sps or Parts33?
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Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1469293)
Where did you get the roll bar from? Sps or Parts33?
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There are slim Beatrush latches that work for this situation. That's what I've done because rollbar in my 2001 didn't work well with OEM ones.
https://rev9autosport.com/beatrush-h...e-latches.html It's a good bar, so I would say work around the issues - there are solutions. |
Here's a european source for latches. Saves shipping costs an customs:
jassperformance.com Interior : Hardtop Brackets - Rear It's a pitty that there is so much trouble to get a street legal turbo setup in germany. And it's extra expensive too ... Your car is a really special one over here! Heiko |
Originally Posted by 2slow
(Post 1469396)
There are slim Beatrush latches that work for this situation. That's what I've done because rollbar in my 2001 didn't work well with OEM ones.
https://rev9autosport.com/beatrush-h...e-latches.html It's a good bar, so I would say work around the issues - there are solutions. The bigger problem for me is the harness situation. My car has an airbag, and i don´t know if its safe to run harnesses and airbags in combination. I will have to look into that before. Also i planned on declaring the rollbar modification at a later point in time to the tüv. This means risking points on your license. But the way things work over here in germany are a pain in the ass. Declaring modifications is best done when EVERYTHING is done and EVERYTHING can be inspected as a whole. Otherwise you have to do multiple trips to multiple engineers, who all tend to have their own opinion on your modifications.( And that shit aint cheap either). But messing with saftey features like seatbelts without approval from tüv is a no go for me. So i will have to find a way to do this properly and rightous. Cheers |
Originally Posted by HerrKah
(Post 1469561)
Here's a european source for latches. Saves shipping costs an customs:
jassperformance.com Interior : Hardtop Brackets - Rear It's a pitty that there is so much trouble to get a street legal turbo setup in germany. And it's extra expensive too ... Your car is a really special one over here! Heiko Cheers |
Originally Posted by Eunos91
(Post 1469293)
Where did you get the roll bar from? Sps or Parts33?
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1463247)
^What he said. The second most important thing about a drain hose is that it doesn't have a "belly" in it that holds fluid. It should drain completely and not block airflow.
The first most important thing is that it is made of material that won't fail, and you have that. The shop that installed my turbo kit also installed my drain in this location, on the corner, with the same kind of 90* elbow. I bought a silicone replacement hose that I was going to route and wrap in heat shrink. Is the location on the corner usable? Or should plugging and re tapping on the side be considered. Thanks! |
It's a good location.
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Did some things.
I installed a new mohair softtop. It was alot easier than expected. Unfortunatly the fixing i did to the rainrail did not hold up and now it is leaking. Great. I was thinking about doing this "gonzo" fix but all the pics in the thread are gone and that makes it a bit difficult. It sucks that i got to take the top of again just because of this stuipid rail.Looks great though.https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c58ec71a9.jpeg Does anyone have some DIY fixing suggestions? Also i removed the top heatshielding for the turbo to take a look at the wastegate actuator. Checked it for "Wiggle" while still being mounted to the flapper. Everything was nice and tight. But then i took of the actuator arm from the flapper.... the flapper was not closed at all with the arm attached. So i tightned the wastegate 4 turns. It´s still not fully closed because i was scared of overboosting. But the car now produces boost much faster. Boost is now hitting 0.31 if i guestimate from my shitty boost gauge. I wonder how the flapper got this lose. Cheers |
Back from the dead
Hey guys,
i excuse my lack of posting in the past. I did get around to do some things to my car. These are -changing to ME221 ECU -AEM X Series Wideband -Installing BMW E36 VTPS -ditching the old RRFPR -Installing 700cc Injectors -Installing VW/AUDI IAT -Installing the Rollbar -Installing some Sparco Sprint Seats -Installing Sparco Harnesses ME221: First about the ECU. Frist of i know you dont really like it here in the Forum. I ordered it anyway because of two reasons. First: I wanted to do the install Plug and Play. Second: Pricepoint. About the plug and play thing... I was worried about that from the start. Mainly because my car is this weird 90hp euro model. It is from 96 and has a 2 plug B6HA ECU. ME offers two Versions of the MX5 ECU. One for 1989-1995 Models with 2 Plug ECU´s and one for 1996-1998 Models with a 3 Plug ECU. I asked the seller a few times about this problem but he assured me that it is no problem and i should order the 2 plug version. So i did. To cut things short: No it does not work plug and play with this ecu. The fuelpump is always on and the crank angle signal is not wired to pin 2e but pin 2f. Which means you have to depin the wires in the connector to the ecu, and switch them around. Took me a while to figure that out. Talk about PnP.... Other then that i really like the me221 and the meite tuning software. Although i must admit this is my first standalone ecu. I am currently running 0.4bar of boost on a basemap which i tuned the ve table to get decent afrs. AEM Wideband: Getting the old narrowband out of the exhaust was a major pita! Other then that i really like the AEM. It has some minor difference to what the tuning software shows me but i got this minimized by grounding it to a ecu ground.(the one for the injectors). INFO: THE AEM X SERIES DOES NOT HAVE NARROWBAND EMULATION! I know, iknow... It never said it does! Well, i thought since it was the sucsessor of the UEGO that this feature would still be there, but it turns out it didnt. Not a real problem just something that suprised me. BMW E36 VTPS: Be careful with this thing... i broke one trying to fit it. The center does not rotate 360 degrees and if you rotate too much you will break the sensor. Also, the polarity is wrong. In my case this does not matter because i just edited the VTPS Calibration Table. 700cc Injectors: Not really sure about those. Bought them from a german company which sells these rebranded. It did not come with a datasheet or any sort of deadtimes. They do work okey but it sucks that i can´t really calibrate them. In hindsight i would just have bought some DW or other Injectors that come with a datasheet. IAT: Fitting the IAT required me to fabricate some kind of bung. This really sucked because i have now welding skills nor fabricating skills. Luckily i have some good friends who helped me out on this one. The bung looks like this: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...82bd0fa097.jpg Rollbar/Harness/Seats: Rollbar still takes too much space for the hardtopmounts. I just run a softtop for now. The seats are mounted on the stock sliders on brackets which are diy. I mounted the harness to the stock lower seatbelt mounts and the upper to the harnessbar. This works well but i think the waiststrap sits a bit high. Its almost in my stomach area. Any ideas how to mount the harness better? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d2d703acb2.jpg Future stuff: I picked up a rear 1.9 nb subframe with a torsen diff. I plan on installing the torsen for maximum drifto. I thought if i already have to unbolt the propshaft i can also change the clutch and flywheel while im in there. So i ordered a Competition Clutch Stage 3 Clutch and a Competition Clutch 1.8 6.2kg flywheel. The clutch is a segmented ceramic one and i am really exited to see how it works with the lightend flywheel. When i have upgraded the clutch and diff i plan to run more boost using an electronic boost valve. For this i ordered a N75 Pieburg valve. The next thing on the list would be changing the exhaust system. Right now it is just the greddy mani and its restrictive downpipe, stock midpipe and FOX backbox. I plan on going with a cast T25 Kraken manifold, ellbow, downpipe and exhaust. The big bummer is that i have to upgrade the turbo because my turbo has a t25 flange but a strange td04 exhaustside. Again sorry for not posting for so long, i hope you liked this update. TobiKi |
Harnesses have guidelines for installation. If the lap belt isn't low on your hips and pulling downward you will die in a frontal crash. You rupture internal organs and bleed to death in just a few minutes.
This is also why 4 point harnesses are deadly. The shoulder belts pull the lap belt upward off the pelvis in a frontal crash when there is no submarine belt. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1497935)
Harnesses have guidelines for installation. If the lap belt isn't low on your hips and pulling downward you will die in a frontal crash. You rupture internal organs and bleed to death in just a few minutes.
This is also why 4 point harnesses are deadly. The shoulder belts pull the lap belt upward off the pelvis in a frontal crash when there is no submarine belt. thanks for checking by my thread again. I know about the danger of incorrectly mounted harnesses. It is a 4 Point Sparco Harness. Is it entirely impossible to mount them correct/safe using the stock lower mounts? I feel like alot of peoole run dangerous harness setups. Thats why iam asking if there is some advice to mount these. I guess you would suggest to change to 5 point harnesses? |
5/6 points are safer.
For the tunnel lap belt mounting point it was necessary to drill a new hole lower and add a backing plate to the backside to keep it from pulling through in an accident. |
Just to give this thread a few updates.
I installed a new clutch and Flywheel to prepare for more power. I went with a Competition Clutch Stage 3 and a 6kg Flywheel. I would advise getting the lighter Flywheel since the 6kg one feels mostly the same compared to the OEM one. Clutch bites hard but i like the way it feels. I also got a Torsen Type 2 Differential from a crashed 100k km NB2. Best 500€ spend on the car yet. I love the way it locks up and sends the car sideways without the usual twitching when you try to transition in a drift. Furthermore i did quite a bit of maintanence. I changed all Belts, OEM Waterpump, Cas Oring, a dozend of Seals and so on. I also cut the valvecover to show off the camwheels. I really like the look. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...174053ac40.jpg I also installed a new 550x180x55 Intercooler. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...235de5b972.jpg It sits there totaly sexucre. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da24fcaba0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...87f0f4fadc.jpg Routing the piping was quite a challange. Everything is super tight. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c4ff6ca857.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bb5de6c215.jpg Now i just need to hook up the Cold Side piping and redo the Turbo oil drain. Regards TobiKi |
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