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I'm ready to start up this week and I'm trying to adjust my ignition map and fuel map. I'd love for someone to take the time out to look at my ignition map above and give me some feedback on it. I also had a question on my fuel map, was wondering how much I should add to my fuel map for startup? Andyfloyd got me concerned running this ignition map based on his motor. . . which is similar to mine.
Well I’m running. Diy base map for ignition and boost maps. I liked the startup boost map because it looks like it holds building boost in the normally aspirated cells. i added like 15 points to the fuel map and it seems spot on, scary close as auto tune brought some cells up and some down only one or two. Now on to the stuff I’m no good at, tuning . . . Anyone know a good tuner around Punta Gorda Florida, Joe Perez???
Hurray for you. Be conservative with that fresh motor. It'll be interesting to see how your headwork performs for you. I'm running on autotune with match afr's. I have not logged it to compare the previous tune.
I’m having trouble with my idle suddenly. I’ve put a 99+ throttle body on that I suspect is either faulty or as I suspect I have no clue how to tune. I have been running off this setup from startup. On open loop it is running at like 2500-3000 rpm, but on closed loop it will control the idle. I’ve put it on open loop, which I typically run because I deleted everything that draws, then disconnected the idle valve and it drops down to a reasonable rpm. Does this mean my idle valve is acting up or does this mean my tuning skills are horrible. Couple things, I adjusted the valve frequency to the highest I can on my mspnp2. I think it’s like 480hz. Everything else I’ve left alone. I really don’t know how to tune closed loop so it’s all a guessing game for me. Any help or a point in the right direction would be appreciated.
Last edited by whiprsnapr; 12-08-2018 at 06:35 PM.
Need some help on my air idle valve. Finally getting some time to figure it out. I had it disconnected, but now when I went to configure it and tested it on the idle valve test, it seems at 100 steps down to 95, it keeps idle without raising. At 0 all the way up to like 75 it revs to like 4500.
My question would be do I have the air idle valve wired backward, is the valve not working, or do I have the valve mode wrong. It’s set to normal, 0%=off.
Its an nb 2 throttle body 96 motor, 1.6 car.
edit— from what I read when I wired and now, the wiring can go either way.
Last edited by whiprsnapr; 12-30-2018 at 05:54 PM.
Well I tried inverting the mode which changed the tables to act the right way, but I still don't understand why at 100 it will rev up. Seems everything I read it should only change rpm in a certain peramiter.
Well I ignored the fact that I couldn’t get a top step and assumed (not really it did) it just opened up more all the way to 100. The bottom step was 25. I set up my idle based off this info and this morning when I started up I just had to tune up the idle just a little under the cooler conditions through warmup. It also helped setting the stupid throttle screw so my butterfly wouldn’t stay open a touch. Nice solid 900 idle now. Why are things so difficult until that moment when things become much easier.
Last edited by whiprsnapr; 12-31-2018 at 05:19 PM.
I have yet to get mine figured out. But I had that moment with open loop idle. I figured it out and my idle is so stable I haven't bothered with closed loop.
Yeah, but stupid me is jumping from that moment to closed loop right away. I seriously need to slow my excitement down. It’s not like I’m in a rush. I dial it in just right, but the weather changes things and it bugs me. Just want to be able to dyno tune soon instead of running safe low/rich boost.
I have a question about launch control. Edit, mspnp2, need to pull the jumper or wire it in. Edit again, jumper is put in place back to my original problem. Works in neutral not in gear. Oh well I’ll work on other things till I find the answer.
I also want to give a shout out to the guy who did this blog. Really helped me out with some basic tuning. I’m running on closed loop and I think I’ve got a grasp on much of what each setting was for and why. I still have much to do, but am happy with where I’m at now.
I’m kinda sorted with my miata, decided to save some money and get it tuned by a guy down here in south Florida. It will get me over the hump with my lack of tuning skills. Any suggestions on tuners would be welcome. Lots of guys recommended a guy named Carlos Rivera, he seems to have good reviews from a few of the clubs down here.
Before i I blew up my 1.6, I was in process of building an rd400, and I’m excited to get back on it.
14.4 psi. I’ll meet up with my tuner today to go over the details. I was more concerned with getting a decent tune rather than maxing everything out. This is beyond my pay grade, so I’m still learning. He did say I did a good job with the initial setup, which I have to thank the community here. Still learning. I still don’t know what dyno gives what kind of numbers, so I take this as just numbers to go forward.
So I was thinking about upgrading to a 2871r, and I keep crunching the numbers $. Wanted to get some feedback on what would be a reasonable price for a BEGI Mani (new MaxG), 2560r, rebuilt and ported by gpop shop about 5-6 k ago, Artech 3" DP. If I were to sell these and purchase an EFR, I'm not to far off the numbers to go efr. . . I think. I like the idea of a 2871, just because it's basically plug and play to the setup I have now. Pics are in this build thread. Everything is clean, functional, and 0 issues. This is no rush for me as I've got everything set up pretty sweet right now. I've got a squaretop, 99 head, and 6 speed sitting at my shop when I get around to putting them in. If I'm going to pull the head off and upgrade, it's not much work to fab a few parts and upgrade to an efr. . . Any feedback would be appreciated.
11-13-2018, 05:58 PM
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