H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
11-25-2013, 02:06 AM
#841
All-round "Good Guy"
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 993
Total Cats: 245
^
Interesting:
a. Would 18psi use a NitroDann fabrication even if it proved to be the superior product?
b. Would NitroDann even make it for 18psi?
Yeah right, when hell freezes over
Interesting:
a. Would 18psi use a NitroDann fabrication even if it proved to be the superior product?
b. Would NitroDann even make it for 18psi?
Yeah right, when hell freezes over
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11-27-2013, 10:18 AM
#846
Moving on,
Word of caution to those that will be DIY seating/lapping their valves: make absolutely sure to measure lash after you're done, chances are you'll need new shims or need to grind/sand/polish down your current ones.
Measured them yesterday, and realized I completely forgot to do that when I assembled the engine. I was too excited to finally install it into the car that I completely forgot.
They are so tight the feeler won't even go in on some of them, meaning the valves are not fully closing, which explains everything.
I wasn't going to post this, but figured those folks actually taking my thread seriously and replicating the DIY semi-build need to know this so they don't repeat this mistake.
Word of caution to those that will be DIY seating/lapping their valves: make absolutely sure to measure lash after you're done, chances are you'll need new shims or need to grind/sand/polish down your current ones.
Measured them yesterday, and realized I completely forgot to do that when I assembled the engine. I was too excited to finally install it into the car that I completely forgot.
They are so tight the feeler won't even go in on some of them, meaning the valves are not fully closing, which explains everything.
I wasn't going to post this, but figured those folks actually taking my thread seriously and replicating the DIY semi-build need to know this so they don't repeat this mistake.
Last edited by Braineack; 11-27-2013 at 10:28 AM.
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11-27-2013, 11:10 AM
#849
Moving on,
Word of caution to those that will be DIY seating/lapping their valves: make absolutely sure to measure lash after you're done, chances are you'll need new shims or need to grind/sand/polish down your current ones.
Measured them yesterday, and realized I completely forgot to do that when I assembled the engine. I was too excited to finally install it into the car that I completely forgot.
They are so tight the feeler won't even go in on some of them, meaning the valves are not fully closing, which explains everything.
I wasn't going to post this, but figured those folks actually taking my thread seriously and replicating the DIY semi-build need to know this so they don't repeat this mistake.
Word of caution to those that will be DIY seating/lapping their valves: make absolutely sure to measure lash after you're done, chances are you'll need new shims or need to grind/sand/polish down your current ones.
Measured them yesterday, and realized I completely forgot to do that when I assembled the engine. I was too excited to finally install it into the car that I completely forgot.
They are so tight the feeler won't even go in on some of them, meaning the valves are not fully closing, which explains everything.
I wasn't going to post this, but figured those folks actually taking my thread seriously and replicating the DIY semi-build need to know this so they don't repeat this mistake.
So is it just a matter of pulling cams again, and remeasuring then ordering new shims?
Cool Story: If you guys order shims do it the right way... don't have a machine shop make your shims and realize the hard way that they are supposed to be hardened. "Why won't my valves open anymore?"... because the custom shims you put it now look like t1000 play dough, that's why. [/T2 Judgement Day reference]
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11-27-2013, 11:16 AM
#850
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 6,606
Total Cats: 566
Nice vlad, glad no harm was done (hopefully). I'm going to get some quotes around town to see if someone could take care of my head refreshing for me, but I still may end up doing it myself in the end.
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11-27-2013, 12:38 PM
#851
Yes basically.
I'm going to measure each one, figure out which ones I need or how much I need to take them down, and either carefully sand down the bottoms of them or just order new OEM ones in the proper size. I think they're somewhere between $3-4 each. Then throw in Supertech stem seals and hopefully be done.
No damage was done to anything, and looks like the rest of the engine is fine, no leaks no issues.
I'm going to measure each one, figure out which ones I need or how much I need to take them down, and either carefully sand down the bottoms of them or just order new OEM ones in the proper size. I think they're somewhere between $3-4 each. Then throw in Supertech stem seals and hopefully be done.
No damage was done to anything, and looks like the rest of the engine is fine, no leaks no issues.
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11-27-2013, 02:17 PM
#853
I didn't do compression test on this built engine. Yet.
I just installed it a few days ago. I'm sure compression is super low because it takes a while to start up and runs really rough. As I would expect from an engine with valves not fully closing. I only ran it for like 5 minutes at a time a couple times and shut it down. Didn't want to take any chances.
I just installed it a few days ago. I'm sure compression is super low because it takes a while to start up and runs really rough. As I would expect from an engine with valves not fully closing. I only ran it for like 5 minutes at a time a couple times and shut it down. Didn't want to take any chances.
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11-27-2013, 05:01 PM
#857
Cool Story: If you guys order shims do it the right way... don't have a machine shop make your shims and realize the hard way that they are supposed to be hardened. "Why won't my valves open anymore?"... because the custom shims you put it now look like t1000 play dough, that's why. [/T2 Judgement Day reference]
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11-28-2013, 10:12 AM
#859
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,193
Total Cats: 29
I've got the same thing to figure out. I had my valves & seats redone and to save money I said I would set the valves.
If you find a nice way to remove the shims while the cams are torqued I'd love to see it.
If you find a nice way to remove the shims while the cams are torqued I'd love to see it.
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