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Old 11-28-2013, 02:18 PM
  #861  
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Yeah I noticed that when I read the FSM the other day. I'm just going to pull the cams since I want to replace the valve seals anyway..

*edit: and I just ordered ST seals from 949Racing

Last edited by 18psi; 11-28-2013 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by miata2fast
If you are using shim under bucket lifters, it is a pretty easy operation to grind down the shims to get just the right fit using nothing more than sand paper, a flat surface, and a dial caliper. It might be possible with the larger shim over, but I have not tried it.
It was cammed sr20de. The aftermath: non hardened shims looked like a concave side up sweet tart from the rockers tap dancing on them
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:11 PM
  #863  
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Alright so I feel like I haven't changed my setup enough times yet, so here we go

New (temporary) setup that's ordered and in the mail:

Garrett GT2871R turbo
BEGi log manifold and S downpipe
FM silicone intercooler piping
Vibrant 350HP intercooler
Turbosmart bpv

I decided I wanted something basic and simple to run for now until EFR kits are finally available to us, so once this stuff comes in its getting installed right away, and as soon as my valve seals and shims are replaced I'm driving the car as much as possible. Tired of constantly wrenching on the car and not enjoying every day boost.

I'm really pushing to be completely done and driving/enjoying before Christmas.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:47 PM
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That's basically my setup. Is the S downpipe the 2.75" outlet?
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:55 PM
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Regular is 2.5 but you can opt for it to taper to 3" for an extra $80.

Also just ordered stainless braided clutch line and aluminum lower shifter bushing
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
Regular is 2.5 but you can opt for it to taper to 3" for an extra $80.

Also just ordered stainless braided clutch line and aluminum lower shifter bushing
Awesome, I have the clutch line as well. it gets rid of the curly Q line which is damn awesome, and is worth it for that alone.

Not sure how much could be felt in pedal feel, but it always felt nice.
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
I decided I wanted something basic and simple to run for now until EFR kits are finally available to us
So, it's a perma install? :P
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Old 12-02-2013, 04:21 PM
  #868  
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But seriously, I bugged Andrew like 3 times already, so I'm pretty much giving up hope til proven otherwise.
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:30 PM
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Our resident King Of Churbos bought a genuine Garrett? Say it ain't so!

Have you used the FM silicone yet? It's seriously easy mode, well worth the cash.

Originally Posted by 18psi
I'm really pushing to be completely done and driving/enjoying before Christmas.
I need goals like this, good luck mang
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:50 PM
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Once you get the new valve seals and such on, the entire community will thank you if you do a sticky-worthy write-up on the "rods only" rebuild. Speaking of that, supposedly the stock pistons can take 300 whp. The 2871 is right at that in its efficiency range, right?
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:21 PM
  #871  
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Originally Posted by EO2K
Our resident King Of Churbos bought a genuine Garrett? Say it ain't so!

Have you used the FM silicone yet? It's seriously easy mode, well worth the cash.

I need goals like this, good luck mang
LOLWUT? I used a churbo once, and before/after used 3 genuine garretts
Not on my own cars, but others' and really liked it.

Thanks man
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
Once you get the new valve seals and such on, the entire community will thank you if you do a sticky-worthy write-up on the "rods only" rebuild. Speaking of that, supposedly the stock pistons can take 300 whp. The 2871 is right at that in its efficiency range, right?
Sure, no problem.
And that 300 figure is on pump. I don't think anyone has ever found out the stock pistons limit on e85. The 56 trim 2871 .86 should be good for high 300's

*edit: to be clear, I don't intend to reach high 300's, but here's the compressor chart anyways:


Its quite a bit more potent than a Disco Potato 2860
Attached Thumbnails H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G-472560-15comp.jpg   H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G-743347-1-2comp.jpg  

Last edited by 18psi; 12-02-2013 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:34 PM
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The stock pistons can handle more hp just because of e85? How does that work? I thought a power limit was a power limit, no matter the fuel.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:39 PM
  #873  
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I think you're misunderstanding me (and likely I'm mis-stating what I'm trying to say).

1) we don't really know what the limit is. 99.99 fell apart from detonation or heat or something else. savington threw out the 300 figure because he's seen 1 or 2 fail past 300 without any obvious signs of detonation, so we just kinda "went with it"
2) e85 reduces detonation to nearly non-existence, and is cooler. Neither of those properties make the pistons "stronger", but I'd bet it would handle more power due to this. My previous NB is still chugging after many years of boosted abuse, and put down 307 in my possession and I was sandbagging it so bad its not even funny. Basically the turbo wasn't even in its efficiency range. 14-16psi LOL

Again, I'm not claiming or stating as fact anything. This is all kinda "what we've seen/learned" type of scenario.

*edit: anyway, the ST valve seals came in from Emilio. Time to start wrenching on this thing

Last edited by 18psi; 12-03-2013 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:45 PM
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Going to bother with trying to emulate the SST or just pull the head and completely disassemble the beast?
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:53 PM
  #875  
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SST? Drawing a blank here.

No I really don't want to pull the head if I can help it. I'm going to try to either pressurize it or do the rope trick to keep the valves from dropping.

I actually had an idea that could either be genius or retarded:

Get a strong/tough inflatable baloon to pressurize the chamber, so I don't kill my compressor trying to keep up with the escaping air for the 20 minutes I"ll need per shim. Think something along the lines of tire tube.

I haven't seen it done here, but having a hard time seeing any flaws in this logic?
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:59 PM
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Sounds like it would work to me. Get one of those inflatable punching balloons, they are super thick and should still fit down the spark plug holes deflated.
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
...aluminum lower shifter bushing
This is the piece to replace the little plastic bushing on the bottom of the shiter itself? I've been meaning to order one to replace mine, but I keep forgetting. Let us know if it makes a difference in shifter feel.
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:38 PM
  #878  
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Originally Posted by Corey
This is the piece to replace the little plastic bushing on the bottom of the shiter itself? I've been meaning to order one to replace mine, but I keep forgetting. Let us know if it makes a difference in shifter feel.
I believe the bushing on the bottom of the ******* is made of wax, not plastic
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by EO2K
Mazda actually lists a SST (Special Service Tool) in the FSM to do exactly that, but I figured like all SST's it was probably $140 and not worth the effort.
Originally Posted by 18psi
Yeah I noticed that when I read the FSM the other day. I'm just going to pull the cams since I want to replace the valve seals anyway..

*edit: and I just ordered ST seals from 949Racing
Originally Posted by 18psi
SST? Drawing a blank here.
I'm a ritard and fail reading comprehension, but anyway

The balloon thing might actually work. It makes sense, you are just trying to keep the valves from falling into the cylinders, right?

Whatever you do, get pics. I want to see how/if you manage to do this without removing the head.
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Old 12-03-2013, 04:41 PM
  #880  
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Originally Posted by turbofan
I believe the bushing on the bottom of the ******* is made of wax, not plastic
It damn sure feels that way. Haha. Honestly, my 2001 SE transmission feels better than my MSM with 1/3 the mileage did.
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