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Hold my beer, I'm going to ruin a car
Got a Eunos a while back. 91 BRG, RHD, auto, 45k original miles, straight and unabused.
Started with the basics, tune up, general maintenance: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...21614819fb.jpg Had to dremel my thick walled 'Murican spark plug socket to fit my tiny asian car. Ordered new hoses as part of the refresh. Wanted white, got yellow. I hate yellow. Rather than ship them back to carbonmiata in china I got some silicone mold making material and added paint. I was going for tiffany blue, I got like a robin's egg kind of shade. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fdb8fc73fe.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f646bb17d3.jpg They now look like ass because oil and dirt love silicon for some reason, but they keep air in and shit out, so idgaf anymore. Pulled the charcoal canister at the same time and routed the lines back to themselves. Wheels and tires came next, Enkei RPF1s 15x7 on 195something Dunlop Direzza DZ102's Also put on my MOMO Prototipo at some point https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bb51790f98.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3bdf82830c.jpg |
Replaced the headlight housings with Cibie H4's and sylvania silverstar bulbs, much better visibility was attained.
http://i64.tinypic.com/ohpabm.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c1f5ac8d7.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b8a7b487b.jpg |
Picked up a new diff to replace my 1.6 glass POS.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...563216ac8f.jpg Mentioned a P/S delete to the guy, who referred me to Bob Bundy, a local Miata gent who knows his shit. Called him up and schedule the P/S delete with him. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a6f03b8ed.jpg It just wants a hug https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4f272c54de.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/106x5sh.jpg Also pulled the A/C and anything else I could pull out without breaking things. |
Bought brakes and accompanying thingies, some bushings for the diff, other stuff...
http://i65.tinypic.com/fekv87.jpg Pimped my diff that nobody is going to see, probably the prettiest part on my car now... http://i64.tinypic.com/2565tz4.jpg Called Bob up, scheduled another weekend to work with him, did the diff, axles, driveshaft, brakes, rear hubs, probably other things I cant remember and don't have pictures of... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...24656d8b9f.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/2cqd55f.jpg Kind of weird how a 12 hour day of busting the fuck out of my knuckles can be summed up in two pictures... Centric Rotors R6 pads (bad fucking idea) Lines from whoever I ordered this all from, probably 949/supermiata ARP 7077(?) studs which are actually for mitsubishi or something, check the "have you replaced your rear hubs lately" thread for info, towards the end (if I figure out how to link and remember and care I'll come link this) Motul RBF 600 for the brakes Redline for the Diff Did an oil change too, Royal purple and K&N filter The pads were the screechiest god damn pads on the planet and whoever I ordered them from did not in any way indicate that, I had to go to the manufacturer website to find out this bullshit. Replaced them with whatever autozone's top tier is, they still had better bite with the new rotors and stainless lines. As far as braking goes, the R6 were great, perfect modulation, nice pedal feel, exactly how brakes should feel. Maybe if I was a little more deaf I could have kept them. Did not replace the driveshaft bolts with OEM bolts, went to the hardware store and picked up some grade 10 with nuts and lock washers. They hold together fine, but I get this weird 2-5 clicks from underneath the car anytime I accelerate from a stop, no other issues. I assume it's a slight difference in the diameter of the hole and the diameter of the bolts, and the driveshaft just loads slightly every time. Probably not great, but my 90ish hp isn't bending anything anytime soon (or torque, whatever number that may be) |
Started putting together parts to turbo the car, put that on hiatus and then subsequently sold them because I thought a baby was on the way. Considered selling the car, got some garbage trade offers from CL and a flame war here, so I kept it.
http://i67.tinypic.com/518sat.jpg MS3 from Rev AEM Uego |
Then I decided I needed a project that would destroy my savings and make me consider setting my house on fire, so I built a fastback hardtop from scratch with no experience in materials engineering, aerodynamics, molding, or fiberglass. I had also never seen any sort of hardtop on a miata in person, and had no idea how they attached except that there was a silly bolt.
At this point I'll let you go find whichever meme you find appropriate... My first idea was to mock it up with cardboard and maybe even build some sort of cardboard frame which I could fill with foam and use as the plug for the mold. That was dumb. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3df950bb1d.jpg Then I watched some more youtube videos about how fiberglass works and took notes. Stripped some of the interior and took the soft top off http://i63.tinypic.com/2gx2uso.jpg I started building a structure to support stuff, but I wasn't really sure where I was going with it or what it would support, I just knew I would need it. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...06d977d47f.jpg I started running some lines to get an idea of the shape. This was a waste of time honestly. http://i65.tinypic.com/2w397o9.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/33etw6c.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/10p85yo.jpg Kept building the platform to support whatever it was I was going to do. http://i67.tinypic.com/2aewl1w.jpg Finished that and sealed it all up (poorly), masked some stuff off. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...54692c6604.jpg And then things got janky af because I started using spray foam to make car parts, and we've all seen the horrendous pictures of how that works out... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c38ec6cea0.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...00c489cfdd.jpg Masked more and made it into a fastback http://i68.tinypic.com/2lldkj7.jpg |
Kept foaming to create a basic shape, then...
That reminds me, the only thing I used to shape was a pocket knife, so keep that in consideration while you're passing judgement... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...460d0fb492.jpg I tried to sand it which worked very poorly, but did smooth it a bit... which I guess is what sanding is supposed to do now that I think of it... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c61ea5c93f.jpg Ran a string down the centerline to try and make things symmetric. It didn't really work that great, but then I figured that a 200lb driver sitting on one side of the car would make the car more off balance than slight irregularities in the hardtop, so I said fuck it. http://i64.tinypic.com/5twfgj.jpg I kept wasting time on the rear window which was dumb since I was just going to cut it out of the final fiberglass anyway and I couldn't mold around it. I bumped it out to keep it at the same level as the foam 3 times and finally just foamed over it much later when I was already laying other shit down. http://i65.tinypic.com/35jz7rb.jpg the sides started pulling away from the car as the foam dried more over time, so they had to be secured in place, ran some 6" bolts into the support structure to keep them down and in place. http://i64.tinypic.com/1629mzc.jpg did some trig when I thought I was being slick measuring things to make it symmetrical http://i66.tinypic.com/105wbok.jpg The final can of foam. This was a big moment for my sanity. http://i63.tinypic.com/2z71qtg.jpg It went to build this ducktail lots of you will hate. (this caused untold amounts of complication for the mold. Apparently sharp corners like this and molds don't work together well.) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b79475ec13.jpg The foaming process goes like this: add some foam into a basic shape cut the foam into a more complex shape check if that shape is what you want if not, either cut more or foam more woops you cut too much, add more foam you added another 3 cans of foam but probably only needed 1, cut more off is it symetrical? no, add foam to the small side or cut the tall side rinse and repeat... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3446c84987.jpg |
After the foam comes the drywall patching compound. The green lidded bullshit has a 24 hour dry time at 75 degrees. Meanwhile here in Washington state, our early summer is running in the 50's. So it took 5 days to dry and wasn't quite done when I laid other shit over it.
http://i68.tinypic.com/dqi1zn.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08e67d19e6.jpg Over that I used basic ass plaster of paris which greatly simplified my life. Also the exothermic reaction created enough heat to finish drying the drywall patching compound. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4b60011c5.jpg Filled the rear window http://i64.tinypic.com/33u3bqs.jpg Figured out part of my mounting solution. Grade 8 eyebolts in whatever thread pitch and diameter the frankenstein bolts are. http://i64.tinypic.com/15fn2nn.jpg Started designing windows for no reason since I couldn't use the drawings since they would be further covered, and I couldn't make them part of the mold. http://i68.tinypic.com/16h0ojk.jpg Started sanding, so I painted in contrasting colors to see where my valleys and hills were. Also filled most stuff with drydex, which was amazing because it dried in like 3 hours and sanded like a breeze. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6ae8bd9e9d.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/bi5no2.jpg Ducktail glamour shot because I was enjoying the fuck out of these curves http://i64.tinypic.com/2v1oy6h.jpg After a few weeks we arrived at this point, which is the final stop before the trainwreck that is fiberglass laying for beginners. This is the cheapest latex house paint home depot offers. I should have tinted it something other than white because the plaster under it was white, it is white, and the fiberglass gel coat is white, so I had no idea where I had enough coverage and where I had gaps. This matters for reasons that you will see later. http://i67.tinypic.com/20uq0kp.jpg |
I started precutting my fiberglass so it would be easier when it came time to resin it down.
http://i68.tinypic.com/2dm5vkk.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/20t1iyv.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/qn1mxi.jpg Then the PVA mold release (green stuff), this in theory creates a layer between the plug (what I just built) and the mold (the fiberglass I'm laying). It didn't work for shit either time I used it, I may have done something wrong though because I have no idea what the fuck I'm doing. http://i66.tinypic.com/mmtsle.jpg Let that dry for a bit, then lay the gelcoat down http://i68.tinypic.com/noa913.jpg fiberglass down mostly: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...66b8792849.jpg some support pieces that made no difference whatsoever in the rigidity of the mold: http://i63.tinypic.com/xmjpfn.jpg Pulled everything off, which required me to wiggle my way inside the car through all of the support pieces, lay down, and leg press it off the car while my assistant wiggled the stuck ass end. It cracked a bit at the high stress corners, but came out fully useable. This all should have been done on a wrecked donor car because my paint is so fucked now, and everything is and will be covered in small pieces of foam, fiberglass dust, and other debris. http://i63.tinypic.com/11ug5tw.jpg And voila, hardtop mold (after 3 hours of chipping out plaster, pulling out foam, and sawzalling out wood, plus lots of water because the PVA mold release is water soluble, and plaster weakens) http://i65.tinypic.com/214cn6w.jpg |
A couple important points for interested parties:
Fiberglass is actually cheap as fuck. A light weight chopped strand mat is like $1.70 a yard, a nice S2 glass which is what I made the actual top out of (mostly) is still only like $11 a yard. You'll need 10-15 yards depending on the width and weight. Epoxy resin is about on par with beluga caviar. Polyester resin is cheaper but brittle like the fiberglass you always hear horror stories about. Epoxy resin is impact resistant and more chemical and UV resistant. However a general purpose 1:1 Epoxy Resin costs about $200 a gallon, and you'll need 2 to 2.5 gallons. A nicer marine grade epoxy resin with a variable time hardener costs more like $250 per gallon. Buy more rollers and mixing buckets than you think. You can mix maybe 3 or 4 batches on one mixing bucket in one sitting before the leftovers start making the new stuff kick off too fast. Rollers last about 1 layer of fiberglass before they get clogged and stop rolling and start pulling the fiberglass (bad) DO NOT try to lay hot nearly gelled resin. It will hit the glass, gel faster, not penetrate, and you'll end up with a big fucking mess that you have to wait 24 hours to dry, spend hours sanding down, and then continue laying glass. Don't get slick with the ratios, do what the bottle tells you. Put too much hardener into the epoxy and you can literally make it catch fire. Chopped strand mat takes about twice the resin to saturate it as woven cloth like the S2 because there are more voids to fill. This sucks ass for a few reasons: CSM is omni-directional meaning while the overall strength is somewhat low, it is strong in all directions whereas woven cloth is bi-directional, meaning it is strong front to back and side to side. CSM doesn't print it's pattern through gelcoat like woven cloth does, leading to a nice exterior finish. CSM is about 1/5th of the price of woven, and is great for bulking up parts that need thickness and rigidity. Resin is stupid god damn expensive. That said, cloth is much easier to work with because it lays more nicely into the mold, cuts more easily, you don't get hairballs when you use the roller, and it takes less resin which means you save money. |
test fitted it on the car:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e16eba48b5.jpg Interior clearance: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...af9afbf3f9.jpg For reference, I'm 6'3", I constantly tapped my head on the soft top frame. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...362d1586d2.jpg made a ghetto frame to keep the mold in the proper shape while I was laying the hardtop https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0319eeb565.jpg Prepped the pieces to lay the actual hardtop. This was 4.5oz CSM on the exterior, 2 layers of S2 glass, some core mat in certain spots for rigidity, and another layer of s2 glass. The mounting pieces were laid on top of the CSM and under the S2 glass. The front mount is the soft top front mount cut off of the soft top and chopped up to drop the weight and give more grip to bond with the resin. Also laid fiberglass tape around the edges for strength and in x patterns on the main roof, and the curve of the ducktail. http://i65.tinypic.com/110vfyp.jpg I fucked up and laid too hot of a batch on top of the main core mat, so I had to wait, sand it, and continue later. I also ran out of resin for the second time. http://i64.tinypic.com/2nq8idz.jpg Spent some time sanding my mistakes away before laying the final couple of layers. Had to sand the entire thing because once it has cured new resin doesn't like to adhere and the layers will delaminate. http://i65.tinypic.com/mhgkqt.jpg Picked up a new slap and continued the inevitable process of ruining my car. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...999c1d452d.jpg Had a bitch of a time getting this thing apart, took the better part of 3 hours just like the original. http://i65.tinypic.com/51rd4p.jpg Got them apart, spent some time cleaning them up. Which reminds me, one of the sides of the mold was too short next to the window, so I made due and cut up some plastic sheeting and taped it in place, hoping it would be taut enough to keep the fiberglass in position and fill the gap. It didn't. the gap is filled, but it's all warped and curved on that side. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d0acbc1b1a.jpg Got it on the car though, trimmed pieces a bit, used some garbage home depot weatherstripping as a seal while I worked on my mounting solutions. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9ff1aadb05.jpg Side mounts, which are by far the strongest of the 3, and the least likely to fail. 1/8th inch mild steel bar, hammered into shape and drilled, bolts, big washers to spread the force, lock washers to keep them in place through vibrations https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7145f1218c.jpg Rear mounts. Eyebolts thread into the frankenstein bolt holes, on the top there is a drilled galvanized steel plate with a T nut sandwiched into the fiberglass, and another set of eyebolts threads into that, they are connected on opposite sides by cables with a tensioner in the middle. This setup didn't last. The ferrules that clamp the cable onto itself need a special tool called a swaging tool. They cost 250 bucks or so. The internet said I could get away with a hammer and dull chisel, or a vise to crimp them down. I did both. I was tensioning one of the sets and the ferrule failed and I got whipped in the face with high tension cable. Not a fan. I was thinking of another solution when my army side came out and I'm not using 550 cord. They eyebolts are only rated for like 220kg (500 something) each, 550 cord is rated for 550 lbs obviously assuming you have the real stuff and not the pretty shit you buy on tactical websites. SO, I figured I didn't need 1000lb test cable when the eyebolts wouldn't handle those loads anyway. Same setup is currently in place, including the tensioners, just with 550 instead of cable. it's holding better and not slipping thus far, which is more than can be said for the cables. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5336195a19.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...87b76aab4a.jpg So the leading edge delaminated from the front mount in a couple places which is obviously the kind of issue that leads to catastrophic failures and liability claims. So I got fancy and riveted it in place. http://i67.tinypic.com/2coljzk.jpg It was looking like smashed ass, so I decided to paint it for now. I call this particular shade "good enough". It's flat black high temp grill paint sprayed by an autistic monkey. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e3f6c4769.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4c84c4d210.jpg And now you have arrived at wherever the fuck I am now until I make another update. Have a nice day, and please be merciful. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5264249c6c.jpg |
A couple thoughts:
I stopped here because I'm broke as fuck now. In the future: the entire things will get stripped down and fixed up, the exterior will be reglassed, the interior will receive more reinforcement as well. Currently there is a large gap between the vertical portion of the windows and the hardtop, I'm going to chop the bottom edge of the top and remake the mounts to have the top closer in line to the windows. I need to figure out a solution for window weatherstripping, though so far rain storms haven't gotten in even with the windows cracked. The windows need to be cracked to open the doors because the glass will hit the top, so the top needs to be trimmed when I figure out the weatherstripping solution. It needs a rear window definitely, and side windows maybe, so I need to get the polycarbonate custom cut, mounting hardware, reinforcement, more glass around the edges to handle the drilling and flexing, etc... At some point I would like to line the inside with dynamat, or its cheaper summit racing counterpart, and maybe even do a headliner (crazy, I know). If anyone in the Seattle area wants a Jank Ass hardtop (copyright-ish), I can churn out another one for like $750 ($500 materials, $250 working fiberglass sucks ass), and I'll sell the mold for $1500 |
This is quite an ambitious project. Fiberglass does suck, huh? Cold showers make the itching stop!
I suggest using some sort of flat bar (steel or aluminum) molded into the top to secure the Windows and weather stripping. So long as it's malleable I think you'll have any easier time getting a consistent edge. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Wish I was closer as I've wanted to do something similar. |
I don't care for the fast back top, but I won't deny the amount of work and effort you put in to it. Good job.
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Jonbmet: It was definitely fueled by inexperience, but it was a great learning experience to jump in head first. I eventually got around to picking up a pair of tyvek coveralls which helped a lot.
That was my plan too, I'm thinking polycarbonate on the exterior, with maybe an inch and a half of overhang, then the fiberglass, which I will reinforce in the local area with more coremat surrounding it and fiberglass tape right along the edge. Then on the interior an aluminum square backer. weatherstripping adhesive between the fiberglass and the polycarbonate. I'm more worried about the mounting hardware being expensive as fuck. I'm thinking I'll just rivet it. If I were going to do it again, I would lay a single layer of glass every day, or maybe every 12 hours. I think that would have prevented a lot of the ripples and bubbles that were caused by rushing to lay more glass before my resin cooked off and not spending enough time squeegeeing it down. That reminds me, it cost me about 1500 total to build the plug, make the mold, and make the final top. I have tons of glass leftover, and a fair amount of all other materials I bought except for resin. It's easily doable in your garage at home, plan about a month total to do it right, maybe less if you know what you're doing and don't go off on tangents. I did spend 5 days just waiting on one portion to dry... Shuiend: You and me both at this point. Thank you |
Hardware should be pretty cheap. If you aren't dead set on rivets I'd get some hardware from www.mcmaster.com. I'd use hex drive button head cap screws. Are you're planning to use lexan?
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Same boat. I think it looks like doo doo but i build and fuck shit up all the time for the sake of learning so right on.
Different, Entertaining. Would read again. |
Would you be willing to build me a boat? It needs to be strong enough to get my family from Havana to Miami only once. I don't have much money but would be willing to do yard work for a couple of years. LMK.
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Jonbmet: Those look pretty perfect, though I may go with the flanged version to spread out the force on the polycarb.
Yep, it's more impact resistant than acrylic, so even though it scratches more easily, I'd rather have a scratched up rear window than a broken rear window. Art: Thanks man Krissetsfire: I'm nothing if not entertaining Six: shit yeah, a boat would be cake after this. I'll even throw in my 1.6 so you don't have to paddle. It would probably take longer than paddling, but you could relax in the sunshine! |
It's a bummer, because it seems like you did a pretty decent job with the actual fiberglass. The mold just looks like total ass. Would like to see a second go at a mold.
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Aidandj: It might happen in a couple months if I can put the funds together and have the time to do it. I would definitely go about it completely differently if I did it again.
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Start with a stock hardtop. And build off of that. It will give you the right curve up top, and then you just have to send it back down to the rear.
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I saw someone do that in the DIY aero thread, I just can't afford the $1000 and up hardtop to start with. If I could convince someone to let me borrow theirs for a couple weeks I would be set, I just don't know anybody locally. I agree though, I would much prefer that curve to the BS I've got right now.
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several :likecat:s awarded for entertainment value. Looks like absolute ass though. I wish for your sake it looked better because that was an insane amount of time you spent on that thing.
Thanks for sharing! I'll make sure to never attempt something like this because it would look like fat black ass (not flat black ass, like yours... mine would be worse) and would probably never get finished. |
Haha thanks man. Hopefully in the coming months it will look like slightly less smashed ass.
I had seen several other DIY attempts and most were failures and never completed, so even though it's not great, I count myself among the winners. |
I'll bet you learned a lot during this. Looks like you put forth a lot of effort. If you can make a good looking fastback it would be worth your while..
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Ok, updates:
Built an intake, along with piping. Figured I could use some home depot dryer ducting (spoiler: you cant) used some pvc and some polycarbonate for a pod filter adapter to afm adapter. ended up running a tube made of duct tape for a couple weeks, I broke down about twice a week, though it was actually from a different problem that I had a bitch of a time figuring out. The duct tape liked to collapse under load when heated, and choked off the engine with it, so I had about 15 minutes of driveable time before I had to stop and let it cool off. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf2ac0bd07.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...92a7daf9a1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...13bcca4e4c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e4e8cfa850.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...520eda92c2.jpg |
Mount built for the AFM since I was angling it away from its initial position. Still holding, but I'm working on something more stable.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...77aa11e903.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...333de7e217.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...be8d9a57d5.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5e437a2fa.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...74e7391711.jpg |
Found a hard top for $500 bucks, had a busted out rear window, been sitting for a couple years off car so it was slightly warped, and the paint was rough, but it was cheap. Picked up a lexan rear window from treasure coast and installed it.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ff1bf7203.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3c19fdee36.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d061c85caa.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f3341be708.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...491f65a1e4.jpg |
Got into 3D printing and printed an intake courtesy of my school's makerspace. Went in and asked what programs I needed to learn to design things, and how the printer worked. Started designing the next day, taught myself the program and fleshed out the intake. Printed it in 5 pieces over the course of a few weeks.https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...91ba8aeaca.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bbda1b0fd7.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cec55fe277.jpg Original design was too fat and long to fit, redesigned it and printed the whole thing again: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0df978b7ff.jpg The filament I had available at the time was PLA. melting temp is plenty high, but it has a glassification temp of 65C (140 ish) so I wrapped the whole thing in DEI gold so it could handle the temps. It did fine for several months but I melted it by letting it idle for too long without airflow, so I reprinted the outer ends in PETG for now. PETG has an even higher melting temp, and a glassification temp of around 85 (160 ish) which will handle the temps much better. ABS (glass temp 110 (220)) would be an even better option, but my printer doesn't like it and PETG works for now. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6e2d3b7dc8.jpg silicone couplers and Vibrant clamps. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...975e639ac3.jpg |
Had a really bad stumbling, idle, throttle droop issue for a while that I couldn't figure out. Figures it was an air issue given all the changes I made, but it was there beforehand too. Finally figured out it was the rear temp sensor. A bad rear temp sensor sends your car into a limp mode of sorts, and it runs stupid rich as a safety. Replaced it and problem solved. No A/C or PS or airbox in the way made getting to it way easier than it would have been otherwise. Replaced the completely black plugs and added new wires while I was troubleshooting.
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Picked up another AF/R gauge on sale
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...369cf6293a.jpg Status racing 6 point cam locks https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f2204db20.jpg FM rear cannon brace. The jdm cars apparently already have that lower brace found in the later cars which I didn't realize. I ended up just sawzalling the mounts off to install this. Figured it would be better to have a fully boxed rear even it wasn't much of an upgrade now. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c756edd80d.jpg rear bumper cut to go with the new rear end goodies: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17d247d967.jpg It's a little cleaned up from this picture, but not much honestly. Take a look at the rest of the car and you'll see why I didn't bother.https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...75a5f399c9.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b1342c39a1.jpg redid some of the loom where wires seemed shitty https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1088c4a837.jpg fixed a leaky bit with lots of silicone https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d9555b19ae.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...055a77c08c.jpg Picked up a 323GTX valve cover that'll need some modification to work, stripped the crinkle black paint. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d1dab0dbfc.jpg Pulled my gauge hood and started leather wrapping it. 3 months later I'm not done and I'm probably going to say fuck it and just 3d print a new one. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da7a03c36a.jpg caution: graphic images ahead went the hacksaw route on my muffler. I actually really enjoyed the sound. A little deeper and a little louder on throttle, but no drone and minimal rasp. I was quite happy with it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f35f79af78.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bdfeb21602.jpg |
Prepped and painted the valve cover. Went with what I thought looked good at the moment since I apparently have no color scheme on this car at current.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...feee2dae36.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70335be981.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7e53f0febd.jpg Started designing this years retarded summer project, a complete front end redesign, completely 3D printed. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ddf455cb4.jpg Picked up a racing beat header. Really happy with the quality, but it started me down a dangerous road exhaust wise. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ccdff590e5.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...20d5cb8932.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a3917092b.jpg |
Purchased and built my own 3D printer so I didn't have to wait in line at the one at my school to make parts. Kind of hoping I can take it off into a business. I'm really enjoying working with the design program and printing things. Just finished a radio delete panel for my car, my intake obviously, and a bumper intake duct for my buddy's prelude. Hoping to make parts for other people, so let me know if you have ideas.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f93c0db31.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b69cd84112.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ab084d6c91.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7266223c60.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d3558d4510.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6fbf78cbb8.jpg |
First radio delete panel prototype. Ended up finalizing it on the 4th iteration. Fits perfect now, bolts in cleanly, no tight edges or rubbing, so I'm pretty happy with it.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c972cffc1.jpg current iteration: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...61c80499e9.jpg FM butterfly brace installed, exhaust was rattling really badly against it, so I got a new exhaust. No cat, no resonator, no muffler. Please don't do this. It's fucking atrocious. I just picked up a new cat and muffler that are going to go on it. How I haven't been pulled over yet is a fucking mystery. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...581afd85bb.jpg Video of exhaust (not running, you don't want that) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4aedd3b2a8.jpg Vodka wash on the headers turned them a really beautiful gold, it's only gotten deeper with time and I'm in love. side filter now because I snapped a piece of the intake off and decided not to reprint it. Just filled it with silicone and got one of these. less engine clutter. No oil weeping from it, so that's a good sign. I'll have a proper catch can recirc when I install the new valve cover. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...39202e650a.jpg For anyone else with an auto and no header options, the racing beat will fit with slight modification. you can see in the video above where it was cut and spliced into the new exhaust. Even a semi competent exhaust guy can do it for you. I walked out the door for $200 bucks with the modified header and full new exhaust. Tipped the guy another 100 because it was done same day and i was honestly shocked about the price. At a different place, I got a new cat back installed in my old BMW 6 series, cost me $700 out the door for nothing but 2.5" pipe and 2 bends welded to the existing cat. Anybody in western Washington, check out Mike at Shoreline Muffler. (yes it currently sounds like shit, but that's what I asked for, and I bet you I'll come out the door under 200 again with it fixed and new parts installed.) |
Ate some dope ass sushi (ikiiki, bothell, wa)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cdfb8c3871.jpg lusted after pretty parts: https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...22bd76b193.jpg Helped my buddy get his mazdaspeed 6 running with a bigger turbo and shit tons of other parts: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...86fa4b5bd4.jpg Decided that when I take it in for the new exhaust it'll be going out the side now. Props to Tommy (@bossroadster) for the tips on routing and sharing his setup with me https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...119a290697.jpg Needed a bigger hole after some thinking about it: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...40f99fc969.jpg bandanas are OSHA approved, right? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f48d6e4110.jpg heat shield plate ideas: figured I'd make the inner hole bigger than necessary to eliminate and interference or rattling. Air gaps also allow it to stay cooler, and it'll be getting some sort of heat protection back there. The heat shield is where i'll make the outlet fitment nicer. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9da88a8c8a.jpg bought more stickers: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...700fb9fcba.jpg |
Bought an RX7 AFM, which might be plug and play into the harness, but is certainly not plug and play to the intake. Luckily for me I can just design a new intake end and plug it in, so I'll get to that eventually. It'll need new couplers and clamps. I might do a whole new intake design, in which case my current one will be for sale.
Bought a carbon kevlar bride vios 1, help with mounting thoughts would be appreciated. (my driver seat, your passenger, will be for sale when I get it mounted. Tan leather, decent shape, no rips, could use leather conditioner) picked up some engine bay dress up hardware from racethetix.com. He makes stuff specifically for the speed 6, but the bolts are the same sizes. Installed his stuff on my buddy's car, it's quality, prices are low, show him some love. Still need to install my AF/R meter (can anyone point me towards a comprehensive install guide?) I'll be running it by itself until I get another MS3, so I assume it just needs to be plugged into the exhaust, and a 12v source and ground for the gauge? anybody know of any convenient unused 12v sources? The radio should have one, right? So I could use that since I'm deleted. Waiting to install the harnesses on the new seat and a roll bar (anybody want to sell me a hardcore x brace or blackbird bar for NA with hardtop?) |
Got my dress up bolts in. Ran out of good places to put them since I can't install them under the hood lifts, so I just started putting them in any random hole I could find (sounds familiar). Ended up plugging some old airbox mount holes and whatnot. I like them, but I would like a nice uniform place to put them so they really stand out, they seem kind of random right now. I'm looking into getting a set for my rear window bolts, and a set for my valve cover when I get around to the install.
I'm kind of leaning towards a BRG/gold color scheme. It seems pretty nice and I would just need some body work, detailing and a respray instead of a full paint job. Probably switch any non accent pieces in the bay to black, clean up the BRG paint, and pick 2 or 3 pieces to be solid colored to cement the scheme with little pieces here and there like these bolts. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b587a75f06.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c9be04b099.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8e35f8d356.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa147746fd.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...45493058d1.jpg |
The gold of the finish washers nicely accentuates the brown of your radiator.
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watch out for those allen bolts iwith the gold washers. I have had a few strip out. super annoying, like less than grade 2 hardware.
reading your thread, i saw your first printed parts and thought, " i wonder how it prints compared to my Prusa?" and then you unpack a prusa. nice. |
Concealer- Don't get me started, I was dreaming about a brown/bronze and gold scheme
Ryan- I agree for the most part, there are plenty of janky version out there. These are A2-70, it's a 304 SS bolt, with a strength between grade 5.8 and 8.8 (700 N/mm2 vs 830N/mm2 for grade 8) Racethetix makes good pieces. Which Prusa do you have? I've had tons of trouble with the mk3, ended up turning it to silent mode which doesn't run the skipped step sensors, and unplugging the filament sensor. Essentially I have a quieter mk2s. The intake parts were done on an ultimaker before I had my Prusa, the radio panel and new white intake endcaps were done on the Prusa. I prefer the direct drive of the Prusa over the bowden of the Ultimaker. Once the Ultimaker was calibrated though, it stayed calibrated, I have to recalibrate mine every 3 or 4 prints or it starts getting sloppy. |
Starting to print these any time my printer isn't tasked. Radio delete for NA (and any other that has the same mounting, no idea about NB, etc...). I can do blank ones, any design you want, switches, gauges, etc. Working on a single gauge with hex pattern for mine right now, will post when complete. Can do other colors too, I have dark navy blue, vibrant orange, sky blue, and this in stock right now (filament color names "dark blue", "true orange", "blue glass", "HD smoke", or whatever spray paint you'd like. If you'd prefer a custom color non painted, I can do any of these: https://www.makergeeks.com/collectio...ilament-1-75mm
$15 plus shipping, or $10 for the file if you have access to your own printer. Hit me up for any custom designs or idea you have, I'm trying to turn this into a side business. Front side, Hex pattern https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7daf5e8121.jpg These are unfinished directly off the printer, supports removed. Back side. Directional up arrow so you can't fuck it up. Mounts with the same screws as the radio that it replaces. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...239d64f318.jpg |
More parts and updates:
Amazon muffler, got good reviews, might suck ass, might be great, youtube videos sounded good, was definitely cheap and it'll fit where I want it. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bfcea89f9.jpg Bride Vios 1 in carbon kevlar, super stoked, mounting might be a pain in the ass. Probably taking it to a local shop for install so I can get provisions for the sub strap and proper mounting. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f519b86430.jpg Fabric is pretty rough, figured worst case scenario I could redo it myself, I've got a sewing machine at the house so I should be able to disassemble it and pattern it out and redo it. Might 3d print new belt guides. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0e25399035.jpg Newest iteration of the radio delete panel to fit my new A/Fr gauge. AEM uego, fit like a dream on the first try, so that was cool. Confirmed that I can do gauge pods in these for anyone interested in one. Went 15 degrees up and 15 degrees over for better line of sight, forgot the slight angle of the tombstone, so it's probably more like 20 or 25 degrees up, but I'm tall as shit, so it still works great for me, might need to angle down a tad for shorter drivers. Might start working on an HVAC delete panel next, but that would require pulling my HVAC controls every iteration and that's a fucking pain since I'm keeping mine. If anyone is interested and in the Seattle area, let me know as I'd like to prototype one, I'll give you one free if you let me use your car to design it on. Would be a better eye level gauge platform. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...70f26844f1.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...58c8412aa6.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33e5cb1b85.jpg Yes it's an auto, take your bullshit elsewhere. |
Anyone know if I need a back brace to safely run a carbon seat like you do with an aluminum seat? I feel like carbon would have more similar properties to an FRP seat, but I'm not sure.
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Got my exhaust installed, outlet needed more trimming, but is finally finished 15 dremel discs later, was rattling really bad for a bit, got that solved, the noise cleared up which let me notice a different rattling under the car which I assume to be my ill fitting butterfly brace, might pull that in a bit and trim it to fit properly without binding.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b0d2b7c08d.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...494938ccdd.jpg Pulled the seat apart, pulled the stitching out of the cover, removed all of the old foam, I'm lazy and busy, so everything is just in piles in my workroom. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...865ff110db.jpg Tried to go to cars and coffee at 425 motorsports, but it was dead. On the plus side I picked up a set of seat brackets. Ended up going to Driftcon instead which was fun, spent more time working on my buddy's car this weekend. He blew his air ride at the show, then we redid all of the hardware on his 3 piece wheels. Do you research if you're getting a pair, and double check the shop's work, they stripped 1/4 of the hardware, clearly use an impact to install them, and no loc-tite on them, so 3/4 were loose. Took about 4 hours to pull every bolt one by one, clean the threads, and loc-tite all of them (blue) Finally got my seat installed just in time to drive to school and take my evolution final exam. Pretty damn happy about it, I feel so much more connected to the car, the car feels happier, there are less rattles for some reason, literally everything just feels better. Might be one of the best purchases I've made for the car. Bride Vios 1 carbon kevlar Status racing 6 point cam lock harness (need mounting point for 6th point installed still) planted seat brackets https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...056da8bffe.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...565c22fb55.jpg Isn't there a seat mounting thread somewhere? These seats are old and thus slightly rare, but it might help someone out with fitment. |
yo you still need/want to prototype that hvac delete panel? None of my hvac works, I just use the ac button as a stupid aux fan switch. My car is stored in SODO and I typically only drive it on the weekends, I live just behind the lakeview exit, off i5 north.
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I do, but my car is down for at least 2 weeks waiting on a new lower rad hose from FM, so I'll probably just pull it out and prototype on mine. I can hook you up with one with a hole for a switch if you want to wire one in. I'm just up in Edmonds, a couple miles north.
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Can’t wait to see that front end.
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Shit, me too. At the rate I'm going currently the 3D printing business is taking all the printer time, I'm going to need to pick up a second one to get anything done. I do finally have my entire front end apart though, so I can start getting mounting point measurements and an idea of how much room I have to work with.
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Quick update:
Mounted the rotrex and checked all the fitments, needs work on the intercooler tubing, it's plug and play on the 1.8, but my intake doesn't line up well, and the lower radiator hose interferes too. Got the proper belt as well. Only a 4 rib unfortunately, but I don't have the money to replace all my crank shit with 6 rib right now, so I'll keep it chill and wait to upgrade. The only belt slip I've seen reported with 4 ribs has been from improper install. Still plenty to do to get the rotrex running. Shooting for the end of the year. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c6d826be8b.jpg Went to Stancewars Seattle, Friend of mine won best air ride, and another guy I know won best fitment, so that was super cool. Went out the next day and did a photoshoot with the only 3 bagged mazdaspeed 6's on the west coast. I was the camera car driver for the rolling shots. I know y'all hate stance, but I can't even get a light flip from other miata drivers around here. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b100108b3b.jpg Opened her up to change the valve cover, really hoping all is well when I start it back up and I didn't do anything wrong. Pretty new to opening up engines, even just valve covers. You can see my coolant reroute pretty well from there too. Not too bad of an install with a completely empty side of the engine bay. It was done with the valve cover still on, so no coolant in there. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7826fec401.jpg Plugged the coolant neck at the block. Trusting this block off plate, didn't have a freeze plug handy. Didn't call for silicone, used a light coat anyway to preempt any uneven surfaces causing leaks. (didn't say not to either) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...81591479cf.jpg Better shot of the reroute block at the rear of the engine. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0bc52abc28.jpg Tried this trick to pull the timing belt off and the gears to pull the backer plate to get at the bolts holding the coolant neck on. Pain in the ass. Wrenches slipped, would not recommend. Timing shouldn't be more than a tooth off if at all. We shall see. Retained tension, so it's still on the crank at least. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0bf12e5a98.jpg most shit back together. trouble shooting, problem solving, excessive zip tie usage. Looking fly as fuck though. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b2af864df2.jpg Until.... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a1b2e53975.jpg Because fuck me right? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...824e173239.jpg Got tired of all the shit talking. Also realized the c30-94 was set up for a really well cooled setup, so it was time. trans cooler installed as well since there were no provisions for it. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a0601c7a69.jpg Got it repaired because I wasn't about to try to source another. Some porosity and residue, probably from lack of preheating and contaminants in the pores of the cast aluminum. Not amazing, but it's not load bearing so as long as there's no oil spraying out I couldn't give a shit. Not my weld. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e31a714d98.jpg Had to strip it for the weld job, was considering keeping it the old color with a raw area and the weld for a wabi-sabi kinda thing, but decided to go a different way. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fbe3023596.jpg IACV and air valve deleted. Don't want to hear it unless you want to help me troubleshoot it. I know the plates are ugly as fuck, my dremel wouldn't do 3/16 aluminum and my jig saw hates me. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2514f7e378.jpg Someone find me a new oil cap, I hate this thing. anybody know the threading on these bad boys? It's big AF and coarse. If I can figure it out I'll just print my own. Rerouted some hoses and shit. Need to find some angled hose bits for the PCV valve, or better yet catch can. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...720a769d77.jpg |
Thank the lord you got a radiator before boost. Lol. Nice 30 rounds btw, bad dreams?
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Yeah I hate to admit my car having a weakness, but it probably would have blown.
Just habit, ready to take over small countries at a moment's notice |
People who neg-cat build threads are little bitches. If you don't want to see my car or hear my opinion, go elsewhere, I'm not intruding on you.
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Originally Posted by Zajicek
(Post 1498726)
People who neg-cat build threads are little bitches. If you don't want to see my car or hear my opinion, go elsewhere, I'm not intruding on you.
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