hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Or even just rtv

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Or even just hold the nut there....</p><p>How much thickness do we need between the nut and the spindle. Whats the engineering math behind that.</p>

rleete

iTrader: (21)

You're gonna strip the nut long before you have enough force to pull it through.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Why?</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Will the cutouts increase the CNC price?</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Because it's gotta pull 5/8 square steel through .200" aluminum.

Nuts let me use 3/4 material, cheaper material, less milling total.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>How do you math that?</p><p>Shear strength? Something else?</p>

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

My concern wouldnt be the nut pulling through the aluminum, but the bracket pulling away from the counter sunk area. Needs good radii.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>So like the nut moving around?</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Are you talking folding the entire caliper mounting ear off the thicker side of the bracket?

Also, the reason I don't want to stake the nuts in is because I don't plan on completely countersinking the caliper mounting nut, so there won't be material to stake it down there. The nut is proud from the bracket there, the reason rtele made them from 1" is because he wanted an extra .100" or so of aluminum thread, I'll leave the nut slightly proud, any more and it would be in the rotor, that just leaves extra strength in the ears.

Also, the rotors I ordered measure around 21.8mm. I got my BP10 pads today and there is clearance, although only 1.5mm or so as Relte found, no drag though slips over just fine. Score!

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

Thanks! I can really feel the love!

I made some steel inserts for my first set of brackets that I made out of 3/8 coupling nuts. They worked, but only held 5ft/lb more torque before stripping compared to at least 3/8 deep tapped aluminum, during testing I did.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Were you by chance using coated hardware?

I guess worse comes to worse, you could use bolts or nuts as I imagine a bolt with flange nut would hold better. Either one will be better than aluminum though, at the cost of complexity that doesn't bother me much with CNC.

Rallas

iTrader: (9)

This is close to what my steel inserts looked like. Willwood uses a similar looking insert on their brackets. I have the part number for it somewhere.

I would be more worried about those square nuts stripping than pulling through. Also you are significantly reducing the material left on each mounting ear. The reduced crossectional area will significantly weaken the bracket. The threaded aluminum is just fine ad long as it is >3\8 thick. Thinner than this and you will strip it with 30ft/lb of torque on a 3/8-16 bolt. This is really only a concern on the caliper mounting ear since you are limited by Tha space between the rotor and the mounting face of the caliper ears. The part that attaches to the spindle allows almost a full inch deal holes. I needed over 60 ft/lb to strip those guys.

I did these stripping tests by tapping different depth holes in different materials. I even tried manual vs. machine tapping. I would then install a washer stack and bolt and use a digital torque meter to capture the peak torque before each bolt started stripping. Was pretty interesting. I need to dig up my results.

Did I ever post a link for the threadserts?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>You talked about them. Not sure if I remember a link.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>found em</p><p>https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...0/#post1258452</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>You're link is broken though</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Again, I am not fully recessing the bolt/nut on the caliper mounting ear. I'm gonna use 3/4 material, then leave the nut proud from the bracket, as far as I can before it starts hitting the rotor. I am removing approximately .100" from the entire bracket (moving to 3/4 and won't need to mill thickness) then recessing the nut 1/8". The caliper ears are .33", and the nut pocket is far enough out to not detract from the overall thickness where they meet. That's about enough aluminum for threads, right?

Threadserts, positive locking helicoils, right? I don't remember a link, but those things are spendy for the installing hardware, no?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Key locking?</p><p>McMaster-Carr</p>

deezums

iTrader: (3)

******* hell, those are spendy. I'll make brackets of stainless before using those.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>5 bucks each?</p>