deezums

iTrader: (3)

Oh, I thought you might be able to paypal the guy $30 or something.

I just randomly saw that this morning during the daily search.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I don't trust cl for shipping.

I mean if you wanna pick it up and ship it to me with the new brake brackets

Would need to figure out the resistance curve.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

It is in the same general direction as the metals by the foot place...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I gotta see if the resistance curve is published.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Big thanks to yank. Manifold is welded, ground, gusseted. And back on the car.



1/8" stainless plate as a gusset. Lots of welding and grinding to get rid of the crack. Even backpurged this time.

Tried to put a v-band on my downpipe, and there literally isn't any room. :(

Found out we just read the diagram backwards on the vr conditioner so now yank has a speedo too.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I no rite? Its all radius or would get in the way of things.

yank

iTrader: (1)

The inside of the manifold looks better than the outside luckily. Ha!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Yes. Yank and his collection of long carbide bits made my manifold much sexier on the inside.

Also backpurging helps a lot on stainless.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

ewww say no to saturn coolant temp sensors. The newer ones, like newer than 1992 are plastic closed ones, the 1991 model year are the all metal good ones. I may have that backwards, its been like almost a decade since I drove a saturn.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Huh, the one I used was all brass case.

It was a 1997 sc1 1.9, this the exact one I bought

Valucraft/Coolant Temperature Sensor SU1131VC at AutoZone.com - 1 reviews

A computer motherboard header uses the same pin spacing and fits down in there...



Also, I swapped to a 180deg thermostat (super easy with ls2 coils and spacerless reroute!) and my temp spiking issues in boost are gone. It runs 182 down the highway rather nice now. I might switch to a new 192 unit, might not even bother.

I also modified the stock coolant sensor to get rid of the flat spot. 200c is 12o clock and 220 is off the chart to the right. Parralax error probably happens, but it swings hard enough to not care. 180 is around 10:30-11, so the swing between running temp and the fans coming on is rather large too. I like it, all stock looking.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

IIRC you can get that connector kit still, because the version that used a plastic sensor used to keep working even after the plastic broke, for a little while, but then the coolant would flow all into the connector and **** and would corrode it all out. Maybe it is the earlier 90's ones that have the plastic ones, I know my 94 was plastic.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

That's a price I can dig.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

The connector kit is like $30 bucks, motherboard connectors are freee.

Is this plastic?



Seems like it might be a thing the aftermarket has taken care of, hopefully.

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector Airtex Fits 91 02 Saturn SL1 1 9L L4 | eBay

Next time I go to a junkyard I plan on grabbing one.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I think thats plastic. The metal one is a brass cylinder with the end squared off, the plastic one looks like that but is more of a brown color.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

There are a ton of Saturn's in the junkyard by me. I'll go sometime.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I missed something here, why are you buying Saturn sensors?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Oil temp. GM resistance curve in a 1/8 npt body.

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Because 1.6 master race head is **** and can do reroute without spacer with it while still keeping the sensor on the right side of the thermostat.

I don't think you can do the same on the 1.8. I'm not entirely sure what Aidan is doing...

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

IN for seeing that engine run at 200c