Savington

iTrader: (31)

Truthfully, the MBSP is just a pain in the ***. By the time you drill it to clear the ARP mains, it's lost a bunch of structural strength, and it didn't have much to begin with (I broke my main bolt with an OEM MBSP in place). I much prefer using the 94-00 pan/windage tray just for ease of installation.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

you want the least amount of overbore in case you have to do it again later.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I already have it. It's easy to install. Extra protection.

This is true. But I want that 1.9L lyfe.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Just got off the phone with the machine shop.

Basically looking at $600 in machine work.

$100 bore/hone
$75 hot tank/clean
$50 check main bore
~$200 main bore (if needed)
~$200 balance (if main bore not needed)
$30 clean head
$50 surface head

~$530 +/-$50

Is this a good deal? Should I be looking elsewhere. This shop is reasonably well known and @curly had has good results with them.

codrus

Are 84.5mm pistons readily available? When I rebuilt my motor after the throttle body failure, the only 84.5mm pistons I could find cost double what the 84mm Supertechs did.

If you're concerned about the number, 84mm == 1883cc, which rounds up to 1.9

--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

AFAIK they are. They have a part number. I haven't checked availability with my supplier. I guess that might make the decision for me.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Skip the main bore check and put some money into the head. You should probably do .25mm grind on mains and rods, then definitely balance everything from main pulley to PP bolts

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm. I talked with clackamas auto parts and they wanted to do the bore check.

I'll sleep on it some more. Its basically either balance or main line check. One of them is in the budget.

I am using ARP main studs.

Why do a grind on the main and rods?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Prices seem very fair to me.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

What is the process for checking the main journal. And is it something I could do myself with the correct tool?

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Its usually done with special tools, but there are "ways" to do it at home if you have precisely ground rods, or a Bridgeport or something.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Its not just buying a bore gauge and measuring?

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-0-000...1292462&sr=1-2

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

OK, you need to specify

You just want to check diameter and roundness of each hole? Or are you talking about checking the alignment of the journals to each other?

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

They should be checking alignment of one main journal to the others not just diameter and or roundness.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Roundness. I am installing ARP main studs and would like to make sure they don't change the bore.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

Then yes, dial bore gauge is what you want as long as you aren't taking absolute measurements and are just comparing the measurements to each other. Unless of course you have a ring guage.

If you want to measure the actual bore, then you need a gauge mic (or the ring gauge for dial indicator at the exact size you are measuring).

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

You could also use plasti gauge for that.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Will plastigauge tell me if they are out of round?

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Rent FM's torque plate if you are worried about it.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Mine will be bored with a torque plate. I believe I have a line on one locally.

But that wont affect the crank journals.