codrus

You don't use a torque wrench of any kind on rods, you use a rod bolt stretch gauge.



For mains, I use a beam-type to calibrate my click-type. There's a particular size of 12-point SAE socket that fits a 1/2" square drive. Put that on one torque wrench and put the other in the 12-point end, set the click-type to break at your desired value and twist the beam-type against it. Observe the value when it breaks, and adjust the click-type until it's consistently breaking at the value you want. Then use the click-type to torque the mains. (in 3 or 4 steps).



--Ian

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Ian. Do you happen to know someone with one of those gauges?...

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Mmmm meat

codrus

Indeed. Mine has spent more of its life in E02K & gesso's garages than in mine though.

--Ian

soviet

iTrader: (10)

I built my motor with a cheap beam type wrench, you can do it too!!

I think it is way more important to re-torque all the fasteners several times (several torque cycles)

http://www.jegs.com/PDFs/ARPAssemblyLube.pdf

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I literally bought beam torque wrenches while reading your build thread.

This is going to end up embarrassingly like yours. Twin disc, wittyworks manifold, 6758. Maybe I'll beat you to VVT.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

I have one you can use. Fits in a small flat rate.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'll let you know ryan. I asked Ian because we had already talked about borrowing his.

afm

iTrader: (3)

Is the one listed for the RX7/G8C Subaru the correct one? That part looks like a really nice find and I'm considering buying one.

for NPT avoidance.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

No thats the wrong one.

Wrong one: An 6 Fuel Rail Adapter Mazda FD3S RX7 Series 6 | eBay

Right one: An 6 6 JIC Fuel Rail Adapter Toyota 4EFTE EP Starlet 4AGZE 4AGE | eBay

I think. I haven't received the right one yet.

afm

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I was about to pull the trigger on the first one so yay for saving me $$$. I'll probably just wait for you to pave the way while I'm still gathering parts

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

The seller was very helpful, and gave me a US address to return it to. So I'm not out too much money.

I should know next week sometime. Customs takes a while.

You can get blue ones all over ebay. But some of those are wrong too.

For the miata you need this drawing (I believe):

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Manifold is welded up. Off to the touge.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Managed to slip my twin disc real bad tonight twice on some launches. Wonder if it has anything to do with this:

Oh well. Still doesn't slip at full boost. I'll run it for the rest of the season and pull it to check the discs.

@emilio700 any updates on the organic replacement discs? I would love to send you some money for a set.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Probably overheated it after a few launches? I've done that many times myself. If that's all you did, it will be fine after you put a few regular miles of driving on it and it cools off.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

FIrst launch of the night. With like 180ft/lbs. On a supposed 4-500ft/lbs clutch.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

I am taking it easy until next Wednesday.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

What alternator do I need for a 1.8. Can I put the grooved pulley on my FC alternator? If not, anyone want an FC alternator for cheap?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I think I either need to swap pulleys. Or find an FD alternator.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Welds are looking really good.