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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 01:42 PM
  #421  
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Originally Posted by SimBa
For those zip ties on your BOV/Intake I can't recommend getting a set of flush cutters enough. $3 at Harbor Freight and they are so worth it. They'll cut the extra zip tie without any jagged edges to cut yourself on.

If I had $3 to spend and my choice was between those flush cutters and a beer, I'd get the flush cutters, and I enjoy beer more than I should.
Originally Posted by Roda
+1 I use these things all the time, and bought a couple extra for the shop so I don't have to chase one pair down all the time. Also put a set in the trailer toolbox.
Ok I guess these are better than regular dykes (that's what I normally use, and I'm pretty sloppy and could just cut the ends closer)? I will definitely consider it but I should probably go back and cut these closer with some dykes to begin with.
Old Mar 17, 2026 | 01:45 PM
  #422  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I had venting issues in my NA8. Heat shielding the exhaust under the fuel tank helped a lot. Fuel could be heard boiling after driving :cringe: .

Never found a sticking valve but didn't look too hard.
Hmm that's an interesting point and something else to think about... I will definitely look at how close the exhaust is and if it's a problem. Not something I thought about at all or considered but would make sense if it's cooking the tank that it excessively raises the pressure and causes more fumes..?
Old Mar 17, 2026 | 01:49 PM
  #423  
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Originally Posted by Z_WAAAAAZ
I never had a fuel starve issue with my DW200, or my DW300 for that matter. My NA could run laps until the needle was squarely on "E". I thought I read a lot of people saying the 1/2 tank fuel starve was often due to running a different shape aftermarket sock as opposed to the OEM one..?

Also, do you still have the check valves above the fuel tank installed in your EVAP line? I know the NA/NB's had different setups, but those valves are known to stick closed when they get old and cause tank pressure buildup. My NA8 had two and they both clogged. I ended up just removing both and running a short length of vacuum line in place and it cured my tank venting issues.
Ya I'm pretty sure I'm running the DW200 sock. I posed the questions on facepage and seems like it's hit or miss with some people regarding fuel starvation. A couple people said the switch to a walbro solved the problem, whereas someone else said running a Holley Hydramat was the real fix. Did any tracks have a long sweeping left hander you visit Zak? I think I recall you have a long right handed sweeper. I haven't touched anything close to the pump hangar so I should probably inspect those. Based on the gas smell in my garage I think the vent is "working," the issue is just how to make it less strong the odor. I will check it though thanks.
Old Mar 17, 2026 | 05:57 PM
  #424  
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IIRC, the DW200 fuel sock may be the same shape as the OEM one? Would have to look at a picture again to check. I remember running whatever sock came with my pump and it looked the same as what came out of the car.

We do have one track that has a super long (9-10 seconds) sweeping left regardless of being run CW or CCW. I'm actually fuel starving there at under 3/4 tank in my current car ever since going e85/turbo. The NA never had an issue, though. I should look into a Hydramat a bit more...

Wish I could help more with the odor concern. I've got the same general evap setup as you (tank venting straight to atmosphere and no canister/canisters), and haven't experienced the same thing in my small garage. I'd think it's gotta be the exhaust heating up the tank and causing pressure buildup like Six said...
Old Mar 17, 2026 | 06:20 PM
  #425  
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Originally Posted by SlowTeg
Ok I guess these are better than regular dykes (that's what I normally use, and I'm pretty sloppy and could just cut the ends closer)? I will definitely consider it but I should probably go back and cut these closer with some dykes to begin with.
I will literally Venmo you $3 to go buy some .

Death by 1000 cuts


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Old Mar 17, 2026 | 10:22 PM
  #426  
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Even if there's space between them, if there line of sight then the radiant heat will cook the tank. And the diff, and the trans.
Old Mar 18, 2026 | 07:57 AM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by SimBa
I will literally Venmo you $3 to go buy some .

Death by 1000 cuts

Peace and harmony
Ha ok you made your point! I will DM you my venmo now. I guess sometimes the extra sticking out provides me some mental reassurance in case I need to adjust it tighter in the future I can grab it with some pliers and tighten it? I'm grasping at straws, I know..

Originally Posted by sixshooter
Even if there's space between them, if there line of sight then the radiant heat will cook the tank. And the diff, and the trans.
Oh for sure. I will have to take a peek under there and see how much surface area is close to the tank and what the possible solution is. The easiest solution is just header wrapping the sections that pass close to the tank. A nicer solution would be making some heatshielding material out of the embossed Al, but I'll have to see where I could go about attaching it to the chassis.
Old Mar 18, 2026 | 12:21 PM
  #428  
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I'm just giving you a hard time... but they are worth it.
Old Mar 18, 2026 | 05:01 PM
  #429  
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Originally Posted by SlowTeg
Ha ok you made your point! I will DM you my venmo now. I guess sometimes the extra sticking out provides me some mental reassurance in case I need to adjust it tighter in the future I can grab it with some pliers and tighten it? I'm grasping at straws, I know..
I have a small pair of side cutters I use for that purpose, and I grappled with your dilemma too. At first I would cut them long, telling myself I will come back to trim when I am certain I don't need to tighten them - but I never tightened them, and never came back and trimmed them either. So now I just pull them tight, trim them, telling myself it's only a zip tie FFS, cheapest item on the car by a country mile.- and I don't think I have ever had to replace one because it was not tight enough.
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