Is it better to have a short intake that sucks air from behind the rad, short 180* intake that sucks from the side of the intake plenum, or long-ass intake that sucks from in front of the radiator? What about water down there? I know nothing about NA tuning stuff.

Substitute the term "felch" for "suck" for all you lady-boys out there.

Unless you plan to cross rivers I don't see any problem with using current coldside piping with filter in front of rad. How often do you race in the rain anyway?

how much low-end torque do you want?

All of it, I guess I'm going long to get all the low-end Santorum felched-up. Then again, I'm running a 6-speed with a 4.10 so the car may never see anything below 4k.

I should probably get a crank pully from 949 or TSE considering the abuse this poor engine is about to recieve, with it's knife-edged crank.

I'm doing this later:
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...32/#post818252

N/A serious business track car + Absurdflowed street car = Charlie Sheening.

For a filter you can order a k&n from an oreillys or somewhere and usually get it the next day. K&N may not be what your wanting to run but they have crazy amounts of sizes and shapes and you could have it by Thursday.

Awesome, thanks.

When will the ITB's go on?

Ban!

Simple is good. I think you've made a sound decision. You ... you used logic! Profit.

Take a look at an S2000 stock filter

https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/im...iuoZ559paxfkmV

You should be able to pick one of those up at any kragen/autozone/o'really if you dont want to wait for someone to order you a K&N. I believe Amsoil makes one of their synthetics that is direct fit for the S2k as well.

What about water/rain and mounting the intake in front of the radiator?

Don't drive race car in rain? No sense sacrificing performance 95% of the time to plan for the 5%. If its going to rain on track day change to simple 180 degree cold side filter. Loss of low end torque will be like traction control :giggle:

Super simple solution for a super simple problem. Very nice.

Occasion=straights?

Regarding water in the intake, I've heard extremely mixed views.
A number of s2ki.com forum members seem to have 'heard of a guy' who hydrolocked their engine. One member is sure that his CAI-equipped engine bogged and then blew after he splashed through a big puddle on the street. However, I've never encountered such horror stories anywhere else on the web, which makes me wonder if this hydrolock phenomenon is just an idiosyncrasy of this particular forum.
Another example: my friend once told me he was penalised during an intake design module of his motorsports engineering course for positioning the trial vehicle's air filter in an exposed position. So, edumacated people do not recommend it.

Yet, there must be thousands of cars out there running cold air intakes, who would seem to be doing just fine. Which is a bit of a limp argument, but hey ho.


I'd be really interested in any other anecdotes/evidence/facts people can bring to this, as my air filter is currently in an incredibly exposed position and I do not want to blow the engine of a car I've been waiting a year for.

I do nothing "straight".

In for more FUJI ITB pictures.

Obviously hydrolock is a real thing but I havnt seen an example of it happening without the filter being fully submerged. Unfortunately I've tested my miatas resistance to water. I drove through about a foot of water (don't ask) in my car this spring. When it happend and I realized how deep it was I was certain I had just hydro'd my motor but surprisingly not even a hesitation. I have my filter mounted over/between the ps pump and the left headlight and no bottom tray. Not cold air location but probably the worst spot in the bay for water. Oh and I'm lowered, front lip is about 3.5-4"

Why not just reuse the existing intercooler piping that used to go from the IC to the TB for now? Stick a cone where the IC used to be. One less hole to patch in your ducting. Add polish later with Abe.

Hustler has already started losing sleep on this project and we're still building the car! lol

In for badass reliableness.

We ran our intakes over the rad for a while but kept getting surprised by rain. We may have hurt one motor by running the filter out front in the rain. Reverted to a 22" 180° 2.5" pipe with the filter next to the manifold. Might make 2-3whp less on top but the filter stays clean. Try to keep the length under 23" TB plate to transition area in filter.

See that's what I said, but now that you've said it, he'll probably actually listen.

Changing intakes for a few lower rpm torques should be the bottom of your priority list when it starts raining. You need to protect sensitive tools and electronics, and switch tires.

I CANNOT FABRICATE ANYTHING SO I NEED SOMETHING OFF-THE-SHELF!!!!
If you have one of those lying around the shop that you're willing to sell me, I'll pay top dollar. I'm about to just buy something from some company making shit intakes.

Exhaust is still a huge problem, the one we planned on running won't fit. Right now I think my best bet is to order an RB from 949 or get something cheap from Ebay. I'd like to get something fancy that will make ultimate power, but I don't have the time nor money...and I need to stay under 99db. The FM muffler looks huge and over-quiet. the RB looks lighter and still under the sound limit.

949 doesn't list the Fujitsubo RM01A on their website any more, but 949 is nearby to TEIN,so that might be an option for you...

you need to keep in mind the car will get a lot louder without the turbo. A LOT.

Do you want my 2.5" exhaust? Lol.

And why can't you fab anything? Too nervous? Man you would save so much money if you lived near me. Or near anyone that can fabricate.

I don't own a welder, don't have space for one, and don't know what I'm doing.

All of Trey's working space is represented in the photo he posted earlier. The car has to go in there. He doesn't have a dedicated workspace other than that.
Edit - correct me if I'm wrong, Hustler, that's my understanding from previous posts you have made.

Speaking as someone who has only just recently ever welded his first stuff together, sure anyone can start welding thin mild steel together for about $150 total investment at harbor frieight, but welding stuff together for realz, stuff that you have to depend on, requires a minimum skill level in welding and an investment in decent welding equipment. I totally understand why Trey doesn't want to try to throw together a manifold or an exhaust that he intends to compete with, as his first foray into welding.

Yep, this is my workspace:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346044687
I have the tire trailer in there too.

I just bought a silicone intake from TDR for $100, I had to pull the trigger on something.

CX Racing on ebay is a good source for tubes. That's where we get most of our stock to start messing with. A plain 180* U shape, silicone coupler and a few hose clamps is all you need.

For street cars needing an EO for emissions we offer the K&N kit but its $180. CX is the way to go for a simple non-emissions compliant track intake.

I also may have to sell the turbo stuff at this point, I am very out of cash. Big time. The good/bad news is that I'm probably going out of town on Friday for 1-2 weeks. I still need to get the radiator in the car, get exhaust bought and installed, get a test-pipe made, road tune, dyno tune, corner balance, align, and mount one set of tires prior to 9/14. This is going to be tough, I plan on sleeping at lot on the track weekend.

Ideally the less than optimum exhaust and less than optimum intake can be used on the daily when I do the VVT swap in that car...which I'm really not looking forward to. Again, really not looking forward to that. Unfortunately the fuel economy has gone to shit, telling me it's pretty much over for that engine.

We were discussing the intake. Can you drill and tap? That doesn't require welding.

You need more tool storage and shelves. I have a similarly sized garage, looks almost exactly the same size. I have two tool boxes, two shelves, welder, drill press, table top grinder, and plenty of other tools. Just gotta orgainize.

+1 I did this exact thing on my spare 99+ manifold, took all of ten minutes, never had a problem with it.

Buy tube from CX Racing, overnight from where ever, order IAT bung from McMaster-Carr, overnight from Atlanta, find local welder, have job done for $50. Make friends with said welder and maybe they'll be nice and do it for free.

Agreed. Get that stuff off the floor, and you'll have more room to move around. Cheap (Horrible Fright) tool chests are cheap.

Water injection. You can get dust/water bags for filters. My filter is often waterlogged after a drive in the rain due to my naca duct and positioning.

How much power am I giving up by going with an RB exhaust over something fancy? ARTech can do something for me soon, but I just don't have the time.

Why won't the turbo exhaust work for now? Is it just too loud? I wonder if you could have Abe weld up a cat. But instead of a cat it's a small resonator to cut down the noise without the power sacrifice of a real converter. Also, you could reuse your turbo exhaust on your DD turbo'd car once you get something more permanent for the track car.

Just a thought. Although, you might not have time for that either.

I've got a 2.25" Enthuza I'll trade you for 3" stuff.

None. The RB makes power it's just heavy. The Enthuza trade from Midtenn isn't a bad idea.

FWIW, we just installed one of the new Borla race exhausts with optional rear muffler. Very quiet and nice tone. It's reasonably light but a bit too expensive for most. They have a kit for every year 90-05. We'll add it to the website. but I'm grinding on Borla to maybe lower the SRP a bit to bring it more inline with the other exhausts on the market.

A turbo muffler without turbo or cat..... 97.9dB. It isn't too pleasant and there's a loss of low-end tq lol.

No time to have a muffler shop do a quick fab of 2.25" piping to a resonator in place of the muffler? Should stay under 94dB with a high flow cat or another res. Should only weigh around 13lbs as well.

Sub'd for awesome small penor N/A build!


Not only do I personally know a guy who hydrolocked TWO engines in the same car, I was with him both times. Was a VERY low mounted behind bumper cone filter on a VR6 Jetta.



Or does the turbo catback have accommodation for a cat? Replace the "test pipe" with a resonated pipe?

I had an Springfield Dyno exhaust on that motor and the people at HHR said it was too loud at 117dB, but I call BS because the person doing it stood only 20 ft behind it. They told me to floor it in neutral and with the light weight of the motor it quickly shot all the way up and got very loud very quickly. It scared the person with the meter enough that they ducked away.

Well I have the intake but TDR did not have the RB rear section. Should I just order one|?

Yup. The SD.exhaust is insanely loud. We measure 110db @ 50'

Fwiw, I ran an rb header, no cat(straight pipe, mandrel bent), with a single 14" spiral flow resonator in place of my muffler for many years. Measured 92-93 db at every event. Sounded fantastic, not too loud in the cab, and cost me about 25$ from the local exhaust shop. I liked it so much that I keep three in my garage at all times, lol.

I find that very difficult to believe unless you were measuring from way past 50' at a funny angle and not at WOT. For the rest of us, that's a 108db exhaust unless the resonator was partially collapsed or otherwise occluded.

For reference, a bone stock 49 state NB1 is about 92db.

Flowmaster hushpower muffler, great flow and sound. Mine, a 2.5" weighs 7lbs i think.

frsrsly

Jason at Enthuza says his XR light-weight puts NBs at 91-92 dB. So take out the cat and the mid-pipe muffler NBs have and you're well over 99dB....

trey if it's an emergency I'll loan you my 2.5" cat back...no res and a big magnaflow muffler. I'd need it back sometime in the next 6-8 weeks though :)

This is with the 6 speed and 3.63, the gears are way to big, but the bitch is fast.

It revs fast too:

I appreciate it man, but I got it covered. Thanks a bunch for the offer.

Baller intake is baller.

Which plugs should I run?