LowFlyin'

iTrader: (3)

You are missing 5 and 7.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I was trying to remember if the curb was fat enough on 5 to get the outside rubber on. The left tires leave the track over 7 when I hit that curb so i stay away from it now, lol.


What kind of times do you put down in the CRX?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Next week I plan to remove the soft top and locate another 25-1lb items to remove. This should get me down to 2250lb.

LowFlyin'

iTrader: (3)

1'31.8 ccw
1'31.6 cw

CRX is getting a cage this winter, then I'll be giving some Hoosier slicks a shot out there. A friend of mine put down some 28's out there in a relatively stock FC non-turbo, so I've got that to shoot for. Especially since I'm lighter and have about 30hp on him.

5 is pretty narrow, but if you're not touching grass with the inside tire, you're leaving a few inches out there. Though, I did find a rough spot between the curbing and the track last time I was out. Only happened once, so I don't know exactly where it is.

I haven't had any issues with 7, and the CRX is sprung pretty tight. Though 8 has caught me off guard a couple times when I'm closing in on slower traffic. lol

hustler

iTrader: (6)

hoosiers? I need 1:27's on the next trip,...bad.

Don't you love braking into #3-2 in CW?

LowFlyin'

iTrader: (3)

Both of those bests were on 225/45-15 NT01s.

I love CW! Yeah, braking into 3 and downshifting to 2nd, then back to full throttle into 2. It's a quick sequence, but I'm amazed at how many people coast through there.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I lost 40lb or so today:

I can't seem to get the front latches off due to factory threadlocker. I'd really like to replace them with my aluminum brackets.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Get a man to help you.





EDIT:

Sorry. Are you talking about the actual latches on the hardtop, or the striker plates on the top of the windshield frame? Phillips-head or torx-head?

thasac

iTrader: (3)

Good luck ... I mangled mine pretty bad when attempting to remove the brackets. I ended up having to heat the bracket and use an easy out ... first time I've ever stripped a torx fastener. I think the hardware on Mazda has to be some of the cheapest **** available because I've sheared/stripped more bolts than I can count and my car has only seen one winter in it's 20 years of existence.

My real issue at the moment is figuring out how to tighten the frankenstein bolt since it's decided break the tack welded nut on the back side of the body.

What brackets did you end up using? I'm looking to ditch the factory latches for a lighter and more secure method.

-zach

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I bought the Advanced Autosport stuff but they have a different picture than what they sent. I wanted the lightest possible brackets.

I managed to break the heads off 2-bolts and even with heat I can't get them off and I'm worried about damaging the fiberglass bonded thread bungs. I may have to leave all that nasty 8lbs of latch up on the HT.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

If they are that soft, can't you drill through the center and use an EZ-out?

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

2250lbs. That's cute. It is a hell of a lot better than it was at MSR when we weighed though.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

you got an impact gun with torx bits that can hammer at it for a while?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

all the heads are breaking...apparently the thread locker is stronger than the metal when using a screw driver or impact driver.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

2335lb back then...I'd love to get 100lb out of the car and keep it streetable. Last night I was toying with the idea of pulling all carpet and gutting the dash, then painting the interior metal light gray. I need an NC or 330ci vert and I can go further with the gutting but I'll probably always drive this car to and from the track.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

very hard, I gave up on drilling 2-bits into one bolt.

curly

iTrader: (25)

You're getting ride of the latches, yes? Grind off the heads and slip the latch off. Then use good vice grips to twist the rest of the bolt out. It's the combination of tension on the bolt along with the lock-tite that makes it impossible to remove.

The Mazda bolts aren't the cheapest hardware around, their lock-tite is the most expensive around. It's called "gorilla glue" these days.

jeff_man

iTrader: (7)

i spent 6 hours drilling the screws out of the hardtop latches. started with a small bit then 4 holes and bits later i was up to the size i needed to tap.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

I know it's a different spot, but yesterday I was driving around testing out the new suspension (whoops, time for a sigline update), and had this terrible rattle coming from the top of the windshield. I was convinced it was the sunvisor...I was all ready to pull in the carport and remove them. Then I noticed that one of the striker plate screws was about to fall out. And I'm missing one on the passenger side. Guess they forgot the threadlock that day.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Do you still have a/c or use the heater? If not, then you really need to take all that crap out back there. Taking the dash out is super easy.