Padlock

nothing more than preference really i suppose. its not going to hurt anything, but not going to help anything either. i'll save the life on the higher flow pump for when i need it if the OEM one is fine for now. it's not like changing out all of this stuff takes any longer than 30 mins regardless

Padlock

started with this on Friday



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a few beers later I removed some things
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and here we are








Also, pretty much stole this brand new Sparco Evo 1 from a friend who bought it, used it for a few weeks, then sold his BRZ he had it mounted it.. Fits me perfectly, now just need to figure out how I want to mount it.

astral

Still gay.

I like that weight reduction, and the blackbird black spoiler. Looks real nice on the black car. Those Sparco Evo seats are great too, I sat in one at Sonoma Raceway and nearly bought it on the spot.

But seriously, still gay.

icantlearn

I have that exact Evo in my car. Im using a PCI adjustable mount. You have to hammer the tranny tunnel to make the mount fit. I had to bang mine in a ludacris amount. If I were you, id try the garagestar mount.

I LOVE the seat though. It fits me perfectly and I daily it with no issues. (25min commute each way). The slight modifications are so worth it for the support. IMO its the most comfortarble seat I've sat in.

Padlock

Thats the goal. A man does not sell his Caddy to become less gay....

Do you have any pictures of the hammering needed to get it to fit? I've been looking into mounts..

Honestly, I'm half tempted to try and fab my own for how ungodly pricey they are.. I have Pro-E software access and access to friends with laser tables and press brakes.. These guys are making a killing on these given the $150-$200 sale price

icantlearn

I don't have pics. I was too frustrated with the damn thing. The front right of the mount would not sit flush with the bolt hole no matter what I did. The tranny tunnel was sitting too far out and up for the seat mount to even be remotely in the right position. I had to bash the **** out of the tranny tunnel with a sledge to get it to fit. I heard that you had to do this, but it was just mind boggoling how much needed to be pushed in. I was thinking to myself, "Whats so hard about making a fu&*ing mount that just drops in?".

cal_len1

When I did my PCI mount in my '99, it required some hammering, but not a ton. Unfortunately I did not take pictures. With that being said, I despise mine. The sub belt mounts are too close to the seat, so you have to mount them to the floor anyway, and because I'm short I can only pass a broomstick test with the cushion out of the seat. If you're willing to do the work, I would just copy the OG Racing super low mounts, or something similar to the Garage Star ones. Regardless of what you do though, you will end up clearancing the tunnel to some extent so you can center yourself properly.

Mech5700

Do your rear brakes have the little "M" clips on them like this? Mine were missing when I bought it and that noise was driving me nuts.

icantlearn

I didnt know that the sub belt mounts were too close to the seat. Makes me what to just sell mine and get the garagestar mount even more now.

I also have to remove the cushion to pass the broomstick test. Im only 5'8"-9"ish. So that's just sad.

I'm probably going to modify the seat mounts in the floor to make me sit low in the car.

cal_len1

I'm 5'7", and I think my problem is that I sit too far forward. If it was further back, I think it would be better as it is on the passenger side. I have a friend who is 5'10", and he has no issue with passing a broom stick test on the passenger side in my Momo super cup.

The problem with the sub belts being too close, was that the opening in my seat (Sparco Rev) was very small, and the sub belt attachment on the bottom side were​ pinched in the opening. As in, if a crash were​ to happen, the belts would crush part of the seat as the belts are pulled tight. Also with no cushion, the buckles were​ touching my legs

Padlock

Thanks for the fair warnings on the seat mounts guys. I'm 5'9", so i'd be skeptical that the PCI mounts would work. For as low as I would like this seat to fit, the Garagestar ones seem most attractive even though i still hate the price. It would save me a lot of time designing if someone had scanned the floor into a 3D model. I dont think that has occured in the 3D parts thread though.




They did not. I didnt have any clips for the pads in the rear either. Went and picked up a $9 hardware kit at the parts store and tossed it on. NOISE IS GONE! Where i went wrong when i first diagnosed the car was i had it on jackstands with the parking brake on, so the pads weren't loose and making the rattle when i was hitting things with a dead blow hammer. The next closest thing was the control arm bushings (which are bad regardless and to be replaced soon) but not the source of the noise I had.

Mech5700

You're welcome

Padlock

+1 poscat for you

Padlock

installed a CF13 JL-02 flasher relay to prevent hyperflash. neat little trick to use one of these instead of adding resistors on every turn signal circuit once you add LED's like I have done. The less wiring and clutter I need to deal with the better.

Padlock

Had an opening weekend at the local drag strip. Car club I was part of in college has an 85 firebird junkyard build that they work on, and they wanted to get some early season runs to test out some changes they did. I decided to attend as an alumni to give them a hand and some pointers. its nothing special, but runs low 12's which is plenty for most students just getting into cars. Anything faster gets pretty sketchy for someone thats never drag raced before.




Decided as long as I was there that I was going to get some stock baseline performance numbers before the build gets stupid. I was quite happy with results which is hysterical considering the last time i was at this track in the fall I had the Cadillac and was running 11.9 @ 120.. that was a fun car.. Alas, I was hoping for a 15.9 in the miata and walked out with this.



Also, for anyone that cares to know.. that ET is VERYY close to what this silverado of my buddies was running. He had a 5.3 with 3.08 rear gear fwiw. We were racing all day. I'd get him out of the hole, but then he'd sneak up on me on the back half. Made pathetically slow straight line racing somewhat enjoyable lol



also, decided to give these a shot.. still need to adjust them as my drivers door doesnt like to shut quite right since the install, but there seems to be slightly less rattles than before. Every little bit counts and it was an easy mod. Not as good as hyped to be, but still would say its worth it.





Also, got spotted on my way to the track... this picture just exemplifies how worn down and beat my OEM suspension is.. having 2 dudes, a full tank, and a wangg doesnt help with the squat situation you see here.. working on saving to do all the suspension at once in a mass frenzy of "corner balancing, aligning, go-kart creating" greatness. Rome wasn't built in a day, and neither will this car. Its nice having a project I can drive everyday with the top down though!

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Good times. My car crashed against the bumpstops with the stock suspension. Terrible ride over bumps.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

dang, almost a tenth faster than i ran, and the same 60 foot. I got 15.59@ 87.3

Nice drivin!

Padlock

realized I never really shared how the headlights came together from a performance perspective...

heres how the "angry eye" and switchback turn signal look together. In person it is noticeable that there is a color temperature difference between the white LED's, but my phone really seems to pick up on it. It's not quite as bad in person as the camera shows. In daylight they appear pretty close. both the angry eye and the turn signal turn blink amber while the turn signal circuit is active. The ambers match perfectly. Looks pretty nifty and is very visible. Headlight bulbs arent even on in the video to give you an idea on brightness


Switchback Angry Eye's and Turn Signals


quick shot of LED's and retrofit headlights at work during night time hours




and then finally heres the wall shot of Low Beam & High Beam.. please ignore the fact the parking lot isn't perfectly level, you get the idea.





Overall, very happy with output. Makes night driving on country roads so much better when you can see far past the width of the ditches on both sides of the roads. Also a good way to fight back at the trucks with light bars. They don't seem to like it when I toss my high beams at them.

icantlearn

That's awesome.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

That's from a TRS kit right? Looks rad!

I think I may have seen your headlight build earlier in this thread.