Padlock

A few questions for anyone reading this after driving the car 2 days...

First and foremost, on sustained higher G left-hand corners, I'm getting what seems to be a fuel starvation. It doesn't happen on right-hand turns The car cuts out almost as if you shut the fuel pump off for a second then flip it back on. After some digging, I think it may be related to either of these. Never had this issue in any of my miatas
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=611304
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=609144

Secondly, does anyone have any feeback of Sadfab bronze bearing converted Poly vs the Sadfab Delrin? Lead time is going to kill me with this one as both of my RUCA-O bushings are hating life right now. Looking at the best option..

Thirdly, I believe my rear brake dust shields are making a noise/rattle. What exactly is the purpose of the dust shields? I intend on upgrading the rear brakes eventually, and the rattle is annoying.. Any disadvantage to removing them?

OptionXIII

2. Friction should be about the same on either if you're greasing them regularly. I'd imagine the biggest difference to be the poly gives you a bit of compliance to maintain some degree of streetcar and vibration control, and delrin lets you do offset bushings for camber. I fully intend to go sleeved poly on my car, but I'm also installing sound deadening right now so...

3. Mostly dust control, plenty of people pull them off. If you're not having problems otherwise, I would at least try to check the clearances and pull them away from any potential contact. Are you sure it's the brakes and not a heat shield from the exhaust or similar?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Delrin is available (although with a lead time), poly is unavailable (supplier issues).

Very little nvh gets transmitted through the bushings. But for a street car the extra bit of compliance you get might be worth it.

Padlock

I'm not too concerned with the additional NVH that delrin may have over sleeved poly. Had poly in my last miata and they didn't bother me at all from OEM (granted I didnt have a lot of creature comforts in my last miata and I didnt care). Seeing as poly isnt available right now I guess that makes my decision easy..

Positive its something with the brakes. Went under the car and could hit the rear vertical with a deadblow and hear a familiar sounding rattle coming from around the shield. Putting my hand on the shield and hitting it the noise was still there, but no idea what else it could be if it wasn't the shield.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like you are already getting the delrin, but I have the delrin kit on my street car, oem exhaust and intake (quiet as a miata can be) and i didn't notice any increase in nvh, and actually noticed better ride quality over bumps.

The dust shields are for rocks to get stuck in, score your rotors, and create noise. I really never understood what they really did... I mean there isn't a shield on the outward facing rotor surface.

Padlock

Pulling the trigger on the SadFab NASA Full Package..

interesting experience today.. noticed the rattle over bumps going on in the rear end somewhere (what i'm perceiving to be some sort of dust shield rattle) goes away if I ride the brakes.. regardless i think replacing all the suspension bushings is a good start to eliminating variables on rattles/clunks. Looks like I'm definitely going to be behind schedule for the lofty Gridlife goals in April I was hoping for..

Go Blues

Based on your experience, do you think it is possible to retrofit the Corolla LEDs to a NB1?

MetalMuffins

iTrader: (1)

If you get rid of the reflector in the NB1 headlight, there is a ton of room. I'm sure you could make it work. Not simple, but I'm confident that you could do it. (I've got FX-R's in my NB1 mounted to custom brackets with the reflectors removed)

Padlock

Corolla LED's are low beam only projectors, so I'm not sure you'd want to do that on a car you drive often at night. I dont drive the bike often at night and even when I do I rarely use the high beams. With the heavily upgraded low beams that are now brighter than my previous high beams were, I think I'll be fine (at least thats how i justified it). Parts were only $100 so the build has been cheap which was one of the main driving forces in giving this a try, but its a very labor intensive projector to install. The OEM shroud is sort of a pain to make work and it would be an odd shape to have in your round curvy miata headlight. I'm sure you could make it work in an NB1 and it would definitely be easier to install in an NB1 than my CBR, but I'd personally go with a Morimoto MH1 and call it a day. They are virtually plug and play and give you better performance than an LED projector will at the only expense of costing more. just my .02

icantlearn

Nice start! Im personally not a fan on those tail lights. I would get some NB2 tails and smoke those out. That would look the best IMO.

Go Blues

Thanks for the replies!

Padlock

They cost about what a set of used NB2 tails cost and I wanted to give them a shot to try something different. I could likely sell them for a profit and pick up NB2 tails which I wouldn't be opposed to, but its not exactly high on the priority list anymore. I don't have cracked NB1 tails, that's all I care about at this point. Time to make it fast(er)

Padlock

received my sleeved poly RUCA-O's today.. hopefully once installed this fixes my bad rattle i was having over bumps. the rest of the bushings should be here in 4 weeks or so.. big props to Sean at SadFab for expediting those 2 bushings for me!

Padlock

Installed RUCO-O's last night. the OEM bushings came out with a few swings of a hammer which only goes to show how shot they were, but it made removal easy without needing any sort of press. I still have the rattle however. I'm thinking its the rear brake pad clips now as I found out that if I ride the brakes over bumps the rattle goes away

Padlock

Pictures of what I'll have to deal with in the somewhat near future





The RUCA-O that i pushed out by hand. You can see where the control arm was contacting the vertical.. its where i thought my clunk was coming from but i was wrong





Got the car all washed up and installed the Blackbird Fabworx Tow Strap..






Also, its friggen amazing working on rust free miatas... everything came apart so easily... no bolts snapped!!! it truly is the little things in life

icantlearn

looks clean.

Padlock

Had a MT member see this thread and ask if i could bring some life back to his NB2 headlights.. He liked how the MSM headlights looked.. ask and you shall receive


Started out chrome...



A view of the terribly weathered lenses



After a little TLC.. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out for a budget restore on NB2 lights that were pretty rough to start with









In related news to my project... I know i have some fuel pickup issues during hard left turns and the fuel level sensor only goes up to 1/2 tank.. knowing that something is goofy in there, i browsed CL and ended up finding this whole NB1 assembly for $75 so I should have everything i could possibly need to fix the fuel issue in the tank (unless god forbid the tank is ****). The DW200 should work nicely for future plans as well

icantlearn

Why don't you just drop in that unit instead of taking it apart to fix yours?

Padlock

I could which is why i picked it up.. i have no idea what's wrong with my current installed one.. If its an easy fix, i'll fix it and let the OEM pump do its job.. If not, i have a drop-in unit to make the job even faster. I don't see the need to put a aftermarket pump on an otherwise bone stock NB if i dont need to

icantlearn

Why not do it tho? its not gonna hurt anything. Its better than OEM.