Padlock

Thanks!

Not to derail the thread, but I've considered going for my MBA.. My employer does a tuition reimbursement program where they would cover $5000/year. In a way you can look at that as "free money" to take advantage of. The drawback to that deal is for every reimbursement I take, I'm contracted in that money for 3 years of employment. That would mean if my MBA takes 3-4 years to complete, I'm contracted in some level of money for 6-7 years with my employer. The other drawback is, I'd still being going into debt even with the reimbursement and I don't see the payoff for an MBA to be as worth my time as my BS was from a salary standpoint. It's not like you get an MBA and then automatically get a raise at your job.. I'd be giving up a lot of free time for the next 3-4 years... there's definitely an opportunity cost there where I could be doing much more enjoyable things (like racing a Miata) for a potential salary increase that may only be marginal at best.

TLDR: I feel like spending my free time in getting more in-depth business world experience at work, hands-on fabrication experience (future Miata projects *hint hint*), and pushing myself up the ladder in my current career path with a BS has a better long term payoff than running myself into the ground to get another piece of fancy paper and more unsecured debt.

mreakus

This is a difficult conundrum many people face. In my industry an MBA is valuable, but only after credentials have been successfully obtained regarding one's particular area of expertise. Presumably an MBA would pay for itself over your life's career if it provides leverage for compensation discussion in your next positions (read: either promotions or new positions outside this company).

Padlock

It's definitely not an straight forward situation to balance out. Let's say for example sake my MBA costs $40k and it takes 4 years to comfortably complete while working full time. for my case, that would be $20k out of pocket (so presumably $5k/year) and I'd be contracted in $15k for 3 years after I get the degree (with $5k being "forgiven" each year after).

There are plenty of management level people at my company who do not have an MBA and have proven themselves to get where they are... then again there are a number (albeit smaller) that have the MBA... In a nutshell, an MBA never hurts you, but it doesn't necessarily help you if you're good at what you do (at least where I am).. so that's where I sit.. as a whole, i really dislike our secondary education system and am rather disappointed with how poorly they truly set you up for the "real world". I don't have any sort of higher expectation for me to gain any more real world knowledge in an MBA classroom program, but maybe that's a naive statement to make?

Padlock

just been commuting back and forth to work with the miata and the slave cylinder decided to rage quit at life today.. that made for an interesting limp back home through traffic for 45 minutes (rev matching all the things FTW). Trans actually shifts smoother than I'd expect with no clutch as long as you hit your rev match on the money. car is sitting in my garage now as I contemplate what I'm going to upgrade to "as long as I'm fixing things".

Leaning towards this setup with ATE replacing RBF.
Miata MX5 clutch HOK

Padlock

....just when I'm verifying the order on the saved parts I've had in the shopping cart



Lead time is looking like ~90 days.. welp, there goes this season of racing boys!

KMiata

These parts are pretty available, I'm sure you can find some if you shop around.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

I'm bored, so here you go...
Ask them if they would bundle the longer clutch line with this kit for a discount.
Clutch Hydraulics Combo for Miata

You want this one anyways...
Techna Fit Complete Replacement Stainless Steel Clutch Line for Miata 1990-2005

Padlock

I should've clarified...

clutch parts are all ordered and in transit right now without issues..

The bigger cause for concern which i'm referring to is the wheels that I want which are on back order. Unless someone can find 4x Beryllium 15x10 6UL's hidden somewhere in the depths of the internet?? 949 is saying a 90 day lead time (they are completely exhausted of 10" inventory).. FM doesnt sell 10's from what I can see.. Good-Win has Charcoal and Tungsten in stock as long as their website is up to date, but I was pretty set on Beryllium. It looks sexy as hell on a black car and appearance matters.. The mirror finish of the tungsten is something I don't really care to pay any extra for over the beryllium finish, but I suppose that compromise may have to happen..

currently the tires on the car are VERY dry rotted.. I'll casually DD on them, but i refuse to load the sidewalls heavily in any sort of competitive environment

Padlock

Installed new slave cylinder, master cylinder, and replaced the 3 piece factory clutch hydraulic lines with a braided stainless single piece line. Car runs and drives again. Woot!

Padlock

Spent my entire weekend moving this last week. Commute to work went from a 50 min one-way to a 10 min one-way so that means more racecar time!. Feels awesome having another 1+hr to my day. Important decisions were also made last week, so multiple shipments coming in between wednesday and thursday has me like this dog

Padlock

took a final "BEFORE" shot before the teardown began tonight to get an idea on ride height. Last pinch weld measurement was 6.25" F / 5.25" R on my very blown suspension. The new garage is an awesome work space.



Hover-mode engaged




Front bushings dont appear to be the worst, but they are binding up pretty badly. Front upper control arms took quite a bit of body weight to move up and down. I'll get to fixing all this later



No huge rush on tearing it down as I'll be waiting on a tire back order regardless. Fun parts finally coming in hot tomorrow.

Turns out my drivers side tie rod end boot is shot as well. I have spent very little time researching if there is a "upgraded" tie rod end option to get for an NB rack. Does anyone have any insight to this?

x_25

Ummm... The stock busnings are rubber and are always "bound". The rubber is moulded around the steel sleeve and it moves by flexing....

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

^yep.

Stock bushings essentially add to the spring rate, because the arms only move by twisting the rubber.

x_25

They also subtract from the spring rate in droop since they are supposed to be clamped when the car isnat right height.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

true.

Padlock

I stand corrected on my late night post... read too many poly bushing binding threads apparently.. good thing I went to bed not long after.

the front suspension is pretty tight overall, but the rear suspension is a mess. Hoping to get to that tonight, along with dropping the diff if all goes well.

Padlock

So many happinesses arrived at my door this afternoon!!!


15x10 Jongbloed's. 6UL's were out of stock and the earliest estimate was late August for when I could order. I decided to take the 1.5 lb weight penalty and get a wheel I like the design of better anyways. The concavity looks awesome. Beryllium 15x10 6UL's were my primary choice, but after seeing these in person I'm happy I went this route.
Xidas 800/500 with helpers and coaxial tophats
ELBJ's
949 Racing sway bar kit with endlinks
949 Racing SS brake lines
"Supermiata" windshield banner to make the car wayyyy faster

Doing some test fits prior to ripping the car completely apart to get an idea what I'm working with. The car looks so much meaner already with these wheels. Can't wait to see how it rides once this is all on

DeerHunter

I luvs me my Xidas on my MSM. Same spring rate as yours and I'm just amazed at how nicely it rides, even on our bombshell-pocked roads.

x_25

You are gonna love the Xida. I just put my 700/400 ones on a few weeks ago and the car rides amazingly.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

You don't need the elbj unless you can't hit your camber targets. They skyrocket your caster, and put a lot of strain on your power steering pump, or if you have a manual rack, they create immense steering effort. (I couldnt get lower than 8* caster with the elbjs)

I wasn't that low (5in pinch weld height) and I could easily get -3.4 front -2.8 rear camber, which gave a perfect temperature spread across the 205 RE71Rs I was using.

just fyi.