Here's a crappy night video of a 1-2 pull with a little of 3rd gear. I was just testing out the gopro trying to get video of how the exhaust sounds and trying to get less wind noise.

I will get some better day time video of the speedo and what not. Anyways...

Nice job with the wire tuck. I want to try it myself once my car no longer needs inspection.

Yeah luckily where I'm at we don't have inspections so I don't have to worry about it.

The wire tuck isn't really hard, just time consuming. Plan on not driving the car for at least 2 weeks once you start. I probably could have done it quicker but I kept procrastinating so it took longer than it should.

The engine has been running pretty good but I have been dealing with some break up in the high boost/high rpm area. I have tried several things with the tune but nothing really seemed to help. So I did some messing around and made the stock Miata spark plug wires fit the ls2 coils better and then ziptied them in place and the break up pretty much went away entirely. So today I looked around locally for some ls coil boots and crimps so I could try and make my own wires. But I couldn't find anything so in the end I ended up buying a spark plug wire set for a 2004 corvette and they fit perfectly. The wires are also much shorter so it even looks better. The spark plug boot is small so it doesn't seal the spark plug wells really at all but it shouldn't be an issue since I don't drive this car in the rain or anything and I'm under the hood everyday checking things. Now the engine pulls nice and hard with no break up. It bogs a little at redline but that's a tuning issue that I can now fix now that it's finally running properly. I guess the stock Miata wires weren't making good enough contact with the ls2 coils and were arcing and not generating a good enough spark.

I'll get some more/better videos up over the weekend.

Corvette spark plug wires installed

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421296976

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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421296976

:party:

Finally got a decent video of a couple 2-3 pulls since it is running a lot better. It was hitting about 15psi then immediately dropping to 10-11 and staying there. So these runs were basically on 11psi and its still pretty damn fast. Once I can get the EBC to behave properly it will be turned up to about 20psi. That should be scary. Anyways heres the video

Ok a little update.

Finally got my hands on a 6 speed from a 2000. I was tired of breaking 5 speeds and being scared to get on it and it assplode again. Pulled the engine and trans out this weekend and got the 6 speed put in. Filled her up with the Ford trans fluid. Finally got to take her out for a spin last night and all I can say is 6speed is sex. It shifts so much smoother than any of my 5 speeds. Of course the powerband and gearing is way different but in a good way. I like it. I still have a 4.1 diff so that may get changed out one day. It so nice to not have to worry about the trans blowing up. But now 1st and 2nd are pretty useless and 3rd gear is not much better.

I also finally got lucky with finding a 99 miata in a local pick n pull that had only been there for a couple of weeks. The car had rear ended someone I guess as there was damage to the front core support and radiator but everything else was fine. The engine was very clean. It had just got a new timing belt, oil change, etc. So I tore the cylinder head and intake manifold off of it and walked away only paying $148 for an entire 99 head and intake manifold, fuel rail and also cam and crank sensor for future use.

My question for you guys since I don't have any experience with the newer heads is this. I checked the clearances on all of the shims on top of the lifters with feeler gauges and there were a few that were in spec but the majority of them were .001 on the loose side. Now is it ok to clean this head up and run it as is? Or should I take the time and figure out which shims I need to order and re shim the entire thing? I would rather not as I know the shims are pretty expensive and it is kind of time consuming. I did quite a bit of searching about running a 99 or newer head that had slightly loose clearances on the shims but couldn't really find anything.

6speed
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99 head and intake
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422902960

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Ok time for a crappy update.

I got the 99 head from the junkyard cleaned up and checked and installed. At the same time I installed a FM 36-2 trigger wheel and a crank trigger sensor I got off the same car I got the head from. Got it wired up and fired up the car and it worked like a charm. No more spark scatter or drifting with increasing rpms. All around it seemed to just be smoother and have better throttle response. Test drive was amazing. I wasn't expecting a huge difference with the 99 head but I guess since it's turbo the better flowing head helped big time. Car was definetaly the fastest it has ever been and Virtual Dyno showed it to be just over 300whp.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427602486

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/q...4772C55628.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427602486

I also got rid of my DIYPNP and got this to replace it since I needed more I/O's and features like boost by gear since now with the new head 1-3 were pretty useless and still spun in 4th.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427602486

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427602486

I drove it around for a few more days and then out of nowhere it started making a semi loud knocking noise. Car still ran strong. I was hoping it was just something in the junkyard head and would be an easy/cheap fix. I tried troubleshooting but didn't really come up with anything. So I parked it and started tearing into it. I pulled the head off hoping to find something there but everything checked out. Then I found this in cylinder number 2 which wasn't there last time I had the head off a couple weeks ago.

http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/q...F8AA2BE09F.jpg

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So out the engine came so I could take the oil pan off and pull that piston out to try and figure out what happened. I was thinking a cracked ringland or something but was really surprised when I found this.

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It turned out to be a broken wrist pin! snapped cleanly in half! I emailed supertech and they pretty much admitted to it being a manufacturing defect and told me to send the piston and wrist pin back to them so they could check it out. They told me that they would replace the piston and also send 4 new wrist pins.

So basically the engine is f*@ked. I have to get new rods. And new pistons since I'm scared to put these back in. And since it scored the cylinder wall I have to have the block bored and honed to the next size up. I have to rebuild the entire engine that only had 5000miles on it because of a manufacturing defect. Needless to say I am quite pissed off.

For the next build I am looking at the 84mm Wiseco 10.5:1 pistons since I'd like to stick with the high compression setup. Will also be going with Eagle rods this time. It will be at least a month before the new engine is done do to money restrictions at the time. It sucks not being able to drive it again. But hopefully the new engine won't have any parts with defects this time. I'm also tempted to build a high compression N/A engine for as cheap as possible since I recently acquired a 95 block with pistons, rods and crank. Do you guys think I would be ok running new 01 pistons that are 10:1 and stock rods while trying to make as much hp and spinning it to 8k? I like the idea of a light, all motor, autocross miata so I am looking for a cheap shell or miata with a blown engine I can put this other engine into. It's not a high priority so it will probably be a few months before that happens and I also want to get my engine rebuilt and get my car back up and running asap.

That really sucks dude. :(

Seems like they should offer more than to just replace the part with the defect. At the very least they should pay to repair all associated damages. If they were really interested in making it right, add for time/ labor as well. That's BS!!

Nobody is ever going to cover associated damages, that's part of playing the modified game. I do think perhaps a whole new set of pistons would be reasonable since you now need a larger set due to the overbore.

It's also part of the OEM game if you are foolish enough to buy heavy machinery from Caterpillar as opposed to a manufacturer who cares about their customers. A contractor who bought a 938G loader had a manufacturing defect in the pin that held the bucket to the loader arms. When the pin broke it bent the arms. Caterpillar gave him a new pin (~$250) under warranty. When he asked about the bent loader arms, they said they would gladly sell him a set for ~$14,000.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427638123

Most manufacturers treat their customers better than that.
Kawasaki treats their customers better than that.
http://www.mylittlesalesman.com/Cont...Z7-3039609.jpg

+1

All that from a wrist pin failure jeez that sucks. How is the cxracing manifold holding up?

Yep all that from a broken wrist pin. I'm going to send the piston and pin off tomorrow and also shoot them an email saying that I want a new set of oversized Pistons since it now needs to be bored over and having a set the same size would pointless. I do have a spare block that hasn't been bored over at all that I could use them in but like I said I'm scared to use them again. And in the emails they said that that those Pistons (the 11:1 compression) are not made for turbo applications only N/A or nitrous but I figured that was because they were such high compression. They also said they are designed differently and the "turbo" pistons which they say are their two lower compression sets, come reinforced and sometimes the wrist pins are even made out of different material that's stronger. I call bs since basically and forged piston and wrist pin should be able to withstand basically any power the BP can throw at it. Maybe I'm wrong but I would think the wrist pin would be the absolute last failure point in an aftermarket forged piston. I'm hoping they replace all 4 Pistons with the next size up but either way I highly doubt I'll use them as I have lost faith in their products even though I'm sure I'm in the very small percentage of failures like this. I will however, use them in my spare block for a high compression, all motor build I'd like to do. Shave the head and block to get it up around 12:1 and run e85, other supporting mods like intake, headers, etc. it would be nice to see around 150whp.

Oh and the CXracing manifold is still holding up like a champ. No cracks or anything. Like the description says it's pretty thick stuff. My only complaint is that the number 2 runner is to close to the lower radiator hose causing it to contact it. For now I have just been running it like that with DEI Heat tape wrapped around it and it's been fine. It's not optimal by any means and now that the car is down for a while I will be taking the mixing manifold off and cutting about an inch long section out of it and rewelding it back on. This should give it a nice clearance and will fix the problem. Last complaint is the turbo flange came warped. I have been running it like this without to much problem but now that the car is down I will be getting this milled flat as well. You get what you pay for. By no means is it perfect but it works great and has held up very well so far with 5000+ miles on it. But at the same time I wish I would have just waited on Abe to make me a tubular style log manifold with external wastegate and dump tube and 3" downpipe for not much more than what this setup cost. That's the one thing I do regret as I'm having a hell of a time having decent boost control with an internal wastegate. I just upgraded to a turbonetics dual port internal wastegate in hopes of better control with the EBC but this happened right after it was installed so I didn't get a chance to try it out. Sorry for the long posts lol

Surely the difference between the two scenarios is not lost on you though. Caterpillar made and assembled the whole thing, so of course they should fix the whole thing. Supertech built and sold an individual part, so they are only responsible for that part. As mentioned above, however, offering a whole new set of pistons would be a great gesture to make it right. Expecting or hoping for anything more than that is a little ridiculous IMO.

Yeah I totally agree. I never expected them to replace anything besides the piston. I actually wasn't even expecting them to replace the piston or wrist pin. I figured they would argue that it wasn't a manufacturing defect and it was improper pin to rod bore clearance or some bs like that. So I'm quite happy that they are replacing the piston even though I won't be reusing them. And they can't go back now since I have in writing from them that they will replace the piston. I am still going to try and see if they can't replace all the pistons and wrist pins to the next size over. Either way I still have another block that hasn't been bored over so I will still be able to use them on my high compression N/A engine build no matter what, because at this point I don't trust those pistons enough to put them back in my higher $ turbo engine.

I just read this cover to cover, nicely done. Hope things work out and you have it back on the road in the next month or two.

I would push for exchanging them for oversized.

Great build thread, Ian's a great guy and has helped me a ton. Look forward to seeing where your build goes from here.

My precious :jerkit: :burncash: :burncash:

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Waiting on the machine shop to finish my block up and check my crank. Once I get that back it will be time to reassemble and get this thing back on the road. In the mean time I'm taking a shot at midly porting and polishing the 99 head since I had to tear it down anyways to put in new valve seals and the dual valve springs and titanium retainers. I am far from finished but this is what it's looking like so far. Will post up more pics later when I'm done.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429537797

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:drool: ermahgurrd.

Subscribed.

Just a thought... It shouldn't be too difficult to add an EWG connection to the CX Racing manifold. Just need a SS weld elbow or short piece of straight pipe. Cut a hole in the CX manifold near the turbo flange and in the collector area. The weld new SS pipe/elbow to manifold, add 2 bolt or v-band EWG flange, profit! :-)

Obviously you will have to put some thought into how the EWG will sit, clearances, dump tube routing, etc. However, this will allow you to rig the IWG to stay shut (spot welds on the WG flapper door + fixed rod to hold WG arm from being forced opened by boost pressure, if the welds crack) and run a much more robust EWG.

BTW... I am going to add an EWG connection/flange to the MkTurbo manifold which I just received. In my estimation, by the time that I port the IWG/housing and still have a good chance of some boost creep, the $300 for an EWG will be money well spent.

Good luck with it!

I actually was seriously thinking about doing that. I had the same thought of being able to weld a 2 bolt flange right on the collector. However I just got a Turbonetics iwg with dual ports. Hopefully using this with my ebc I will get better boost control since it will have the help of pressure pushing the wastegate closed until its close to my boost target. I will play with this setup to hopefully get it working much better than a typical iwg but I won't get my hopes up. If this doesn't work I will go the external wastegate route with open dump tube. I held up my external wastegate to the manifold a couple months ago and there is plenty of room in there. Only concern is having all that extra weight hanging off the end of the manifold and it cracking eventually.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1433116685

Well its been a while since I had an update. Been having to much fun with this car now that I finally have the second engine rebuilt. The engine has roughly 1300 miles on it now and everything has gone great so far. Runs and sounds as solid as it looks. Just switched to T6 at the 1200 mile mark.

Had a couple issues on the first start getting a crank signal but after going over several things on the MS3X I finally found the problem and cranked it up shortly after that. Break in when great, engine ran great and MS3X is the shiznit. Not much else to say other than its been running great and I've spent the last month tuning and enjoying driving it around and butthurting many muscle cars. It's definitely the fastest its ever been and Virtual Dyno shows the car to be around 325whp on 18psi. Hopefully I can get it to a real dyno soon once I get a few other things worked out such as boost control and being close to being out of fuel.

Some recent pics for you guys

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435790819

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<p>E85 only or running flex fuel?</p>

E85 only due to 10.5 wiseco's. Was running Supertech 11:1 pistons in the last engine but was to scared to put them back in because of the wrist pin snapping in half. Instead I will be using them in a different n/a build for my other miata at some point.

I would like at some point to install a flex fuel sensor though. That way I'll be able to take into account the variances of the ethanol content, like 70% ethanol in the winter and 85% in the summer. Being a high boost/high comp I need to know exactly whats in the tank. I try to ask the manager at whichever gas station I'm filling up at but none of them seem to know how to look up what they currently have, either e70 or e85

Intro turned hopefully epic build thread
 

The mobile app is excruciating, so I'm going to just ask what transmission you are using?

I am running a 6 speed with a 4.1 rear end. Not ideal but it's ok for now until I come across a 3.9 or 3.63

So recently I've been trying to figure out how to go about adding an adjustable fpr. I still had the stock one on there and I needed something to allow me to bump up the base pressure because I was nearing 80% DC with my ID1000's. I searched a bunch and didn't really come up with anything. Everyone that was doing this was running an after market dual feed fuel rail like the FM or M-tuned rail. I would much rather go this route but it seems that no one makes a fuel rail anymore for the 99+ heads. Maybe FM still makes them but are just out of stock for now so in the mean time this is what I came up with for the stock rail.

Looked around for an adapter to fit the fuel rail but all I really found was crappy ones from Hong Kong that weren't even the correct size and people were having to modify them to get them to fit. After measuring and doing some digging I found this little gem made by Turbosmart. Part number is TS-0402-1002. Got it from Summit racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tbs-ts-0402-1002
It's actually made for Toyota/subaru but looking at the dimensions it was exactly what I needed. I received it today and it fits perfectly, bolt holes line up and fits nice and snug with no leaks and is a quality piece.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435988944

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435988944

Installed a 1/8" to -6an 90degree fitting and installed it on the fuel rail.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435988944

Then -6an braided hose to the Aeromotive Fpr.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435988944

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435988944

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1435988944


Works great! Set base pressure to 60psi and then started the car up, adjusted the fuel map and then checked for leaks and all was good so went for a test drive and everything works perfect. DC is now about 15% lower so now I should have the headroom I need on these ID1000's to get close to 450whp. This adapter should also work great on the earlier 1.8 and the 1.6 if anyone is looking to add an afpr without having to spend money on a fuel rail. I do however plan on getting a dual feed fuel rail if FM ever gets them back in stock or if I come across one in the classifieds but for now this seems to work great and it was much cheaper.

Exactly what I'm going to run. But with a flex fuel sensor thrown in.

Yes same here one day when I eventually get around to it! Im just glad I found that fuel rail adapter. It made all of this so easy. I wasn't sure what I was going to do before I found it short of finding a dual feed fuel rail.

Yeah I posted about it in the VVT thread a bit ago. My build thread too.

Dang well its been a whole year since I've posted anything in here. Life has gotten in the way and got my first kid on the way so things slowed down on the miata for a bit.

Main thing was after I rebuilt the engine the last time with Wiseco pistons and manley rods, shortly after my last post above from a year ago the engine started making a random semi loud knocking noise that sounded like rod knock or a spun bearing or something. I changed out everything out that could possibly make that noise, new water pump, new alternator, even pulled out the engine and checked the bearings and replaced them all with some Clevite bearings even though they all checked out fine. Everything else inside the engine looked fine and nothing stood out so I put it all back together and low and behold, it still made the same noise. At this point I was frustrated and out of ideas and I was scared to drive it, being that this was the second built engine I built in the last 6 months. So long story short, the car has been sitting in the garage for the last 9 months as I walked by it pissed off everytime I looked at it. And in the mean time I had bought a 99 silver NB and scored a used FM2 kit for it and have been daily driving it at 10psi and enjoying a nice, reliable, fast daily with ac.

Well I finally decided to get this miata back up and running and to see if I could figure out this knocking noise. I guess I needed that 9 month break because as I was putting it back together I found out I could rotate the crank pulley back and forth a little bit. I checked the 4 small bolts that hold the pulley to the crank pulley boss and they were all 4 loose. For some reason I had never thought to check it. So I tightened those 4 bolts back down and amazingly the knocking noise from 9 months ago went away! I was super excited and continued to drive the car around to make sure that really fixed it and it has yet to make that noise again. So after all that time and checking and replacing everything it just turned out to be a loose crank pulley bouncing back and forth. Also the walbro 255 to a crap after sitting in e85 for 9 months. It started making the death whine, so I ordered a new DW300 pump to replace it. Its much quieter than the walbro and is working great.

So now I am slowly getting back the car back together completely since some small parts were taken off to be used on the new NB. I forgot how fast this thing is and now driving around I remembered why I did all this in the first place. RIght now I am trying to get the car retuned and back running 100%. I am so excited that the fix for the noise was so easy as I was very close to selling it, and I would have been really pissed finding this out after I sold it. More updates to come as I keep adding things. I would like to get this thing on a dyno soon to see where its currently at. Some Virtual Dyno logs show it to be roughly somewhere between 325-350whp at 17-18psi.

As it currently sits
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DW300
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Cut out a SADFAB coil bracket at work to replace my shitty bracket. Fits perfect and much more compact and sturdy
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And my silver NB that I now have to sell as I cant fit a car seat in it :cry: :mad:
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Bracket looks great! Glad we could contribute to your build.

MMmmmm car porn :drool:

It's always something stupid isn't it... Say, you ever gonna replace my 6speed? lol.

You ever get that Borg Warner EFR on there yet? I need a new turbo cause this old journal bearing turbonetics spools so slow. Same size compressor as a gt3076 but the turbine wheel is 65mm compared to the 60mm on the gt3076. Doesn't start spooling till 4k and can only reach full boost in 3rd and after. Need something ball bearing with a t3 turbine housing and 5 bolt exit so I don't have to change manifold or downpipe. I can get a ball bearing gt3076r with a t3 5 bolt turbine housing but it's $1500. As much as I don't want to I'm looking at a gt3076 sized cxracing "ceramic ball bearing" turbo for $400 but I'd like to know if it's actually ball bearing or not. Just can't afford a $1500 turbo with a kiddo on the way

Please try it out and let us know.

Lol I was already the Guinea pig for the cxracing new tubular turbo manifold and downpipe. And while it's been holding up great it does have its downfalls. I was hoping someone here has either tried one or know someone who has one that can actually confirm that it's ball bearing and worth the extra $200 over the regular journal bearing eBay churbos

If it's listed as ball bearing it probably is. But who knows if it will actually hold up.

This is the particular one I'm looking at. It's the closest one to a gt3076r that I could find. Only bad part is it doesn't have the internal wastegate hole in the turbine housing so id have to drill one in just the right spot. CXRacing Stage III Ceramic Ball Bearing T04E GT35 Spec Turbo Charger T3 5 Bolt

Looked very fun while it lasted. Very shitty about your engine grenading due to manufacturer defect.

That video was on the old motor with the supertech pistons and eBay rods before the wrist pin broke. The new engine runs even better and makes way more power and is the engine that is currently in the car running. I figured out the noise it was making which turned out to be a loose crank pulley. I have now taken those 4 small bolts out, loctited them and retorqued them down so hopefully they'll stay in place now. I'll try and get some new video up soon of the dash while doing a couple pulls. I can tell you it's way faster than the last video

Your spool isn't poor because of the journal bearing. It is poor because the turbo is too large for the amount of exhaust you have available to operate it. You are throwing a hot dog down a hallway, if you get what I'm saying.

Sell it to someone with an engine over 2 liters and get a t3 like Braineack and others are using. They spool well and make great power and are journal bearing. Chinese ball bearing turbos are known to be unreliable.

I agree that the turbo is really to big. I just had it laying around for my old eagle talon when I had it, and I got it used for a cheap price. It was either that or put a super small eBay turbo on there that i also had laying around and I choose to go with the bigger turbo for now since I was aiming for 400+hp. All though it does put a big ass grin on your face when there's nothing, nothing and then bam it kicks in really hard and then it pulls like a freight train. I'll get something more appropriately sized when the time and money is right

Well, that's been an interesting read, lots of ups and downs, mostly downs it seems. I wish you had stuck another set of 11:1 pistons back in there with the new block, and I will say to go with an EFR, however I think I am a bit biased lol.

Also, in regards to the wire tuck, I like where you bolted the fuse box, when the dash went back on did it make access of the fuses difficult or was fitting the dash back on hindered by the location of it?

My one single complaint is that you need to fire the machine shop that sends out garbage finishes like that, the finish on your short block looks like absolute poop in my opinion. I would have been extremely unhappy if I received that as a finished product. And since I like to whore out pics, and its relevant, here is the finish of my block. Excited to follow this build now!

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...09c93a905e.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7dd89d8f7e.jpg

That's does look a lot better than the deck on my block but in the machine shops defense they didn't actually deck it. At the time I didn't have a lot of extra money so I just had them check to make sure it was flat within tolerance and then I cleaned it up the best I could. Looking back now I wish I would have waited a little longer and just had them deck the surface but I have had zero issues from not having it decked.
Also after the first engine got messed up I was hesitant to put supertech pistons back in even with all new "turbo" wrist pins. I would have also had to source another block. It would have come out close to the same price reusing the supertechs, finding a new block and then having it hot tanked, magnafluxed, bored, honed and decked and new rings. I got he next size up wisecos in the highest OTS compression they had and just had the old block rebored and honed.

The fuse block there didn't get in the way of putting the dash back on at all. The glove box still has plenty of room to open and close and when I do need to get back there it's just removing the 2 screws holding the glove box in, drop it out of the way and then it's right there easy to get too. Although I haven't had to get to it yet.

Car is still running freaking awesome. Currently dealing with what feels like a slight hesitation close to redline/full boost. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't. Hopefully I can figure it out this weekend and hopefully get some videos posted.

Oh and an efr would be lovely but that would require new mani, turbo, and downpipe. Maybe one day I'll upgrade but for now I have a baby due in November to worry about.

Totally understandable on the finance front, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do :)
In regards to the hesitation, is it more of a sputter? Have you considered possible spark blowout? Check you plug gaps and possibly lower them slightly and see if that improves. Worth a shot!

Congrats on the upcoming rugrat!

It does kind of feel like spark blowout but I have d585 coils and the spark plug gap IIRC is between .030-.035. That was the first thing I was going to check was spark plugs/wires and go from there. Can't find anything in the logs that would cause it.

It has the same kind of feeling as if it goes pig rich and stutters just a bit and then picks back up and keeps pulling. It is a little rich when it happens but not rich enough to cause a sputter/misfire I would think. It's around 11.2 afr when it happens on a gas scale wideband

Just got through the whole build. Good read, and thank you for documenting the ups and downs.

Any updates?