Originally Posted by matthewdesigns
(Post 1170127)
What spring(s) do you have in it? I got sick of trying to adjust the flutter out of mine and yanked it. Went back to a 1g DSM valve.
It would only flutter slightly if I shifted when it was at like 0.5-1psi |
Hmm, ok thanks.
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Finally got some decent tuning in with the help of my buddy ianferrell. We spent about 2 hours last night getting the idle dialed in and most of the fuel table dialed in better. It still needs a little bit of tuning in the upper rpm range but it feels pretty good.
Working on an issue with spool time. It's way slow. I'm thinking that the wastegate pre-load isn't high enough causing it to open slightly as soon as it starts building boost. This is my first time messing with internal wastegates. Anyone have any ideas on that? I'll try and get a video up sometime this weekend. |
pretty easy to tighten it. you want it just tight enough to hold the flapper shut....with maybe about 1-2mm worth of "pulling" required to connect the arm to the flapper.
also you need to hook up an mbc/ebc to properly gauge spool. with/without makes a HUGE difference on an IWG setup |
I'll see if I can tighten it more.
Anyone know the proper way to hook this POS up? Universal Adjustable Racing Turbo 30PSI Manual Boost Bypass Controller Kit Black | eBay It's all I had laying around and so far it has made no difference lol I think I'll end up making my own. |
the proper way to install that is to chuck it in the track and then either buy or make a proper ball and spring mbc
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Haha done and done. Just checking to see if anyone might have got it to work somehow.
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I did extensive modification and got it to work. One click was waste gate pressure, the next was over boost.
Throw it away and get a standard ball and spring. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1170893)
I did extensive modification and got it to work. One click was waste gate pressure, the next was over boost.
Throw it away and get a standard ball and spring. |
I feel like an idoit! After trying everything to get the spool time to be quicker I finally figured it out today and man it's a whole other animal now.
Basically I used the old 5 bolt flange steel gasket between the turbo and the v-band adapter. It had a hole cut out where the wastegate hole in the turbine housing is when I had that weird external wastegate setup on the old engine. It is like this gasket. T04E T3 T4 Turbo turbocharger Outlet Pipe Steel Flange Gasket Kit 5 Bolts MSRA4 | eBay It had bent slightly at the small area between the small hole and the big hole allowing the exhaust gasses to escape behind the gasket since the internal wastegate actuator wasn't strong enough to flatten the gasket out. Took that gasket out and boom! Spools like it's suppose to and I also found out that my DIY boost controller works. From now on I am going to check all the simple stupid stuff first if something isn't right. In this case it was a simple as removing a damn gasket. Oh well, I'm happy now. |
you live and you learned. glad it was so easy
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Car is still running good, except for when the clutch master cylinder decided to take a shit on the way home the other day. Brand new unit with only about 2000 miles on it. Got a free warranty replacement and installed it and all is good now. Guess thats what happens with a heavier pressure plate. Are there any good aftermarket master and slaves that can better put up with the increased pressure of an aftermarket clutch?
My diy mbc is enjoying spiking to 14 then settling back down to 8 then back up again so I ordered the ebc kit from diyautotune. It'll be at the house later when I get home and I hope to have it installed and get it dialed in over the weekend. Also have the sequential injection board to install, might as well do that at the same time. I'm out of outputs now though. I'm already running sequential ignition and could tell a pretty good difference going to that so I'm hoping this will do the same. Almost forgot, no cat pics yet. My cat https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412276869 |
I don't think anyone had to upgrade their clutch cyl here, and there are people running some serious pressure plates. I think you just got a bad one
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Ok guys I need a little help.
Drove the car around last night doing some tuning and it was running fine. Went home parked it in the garage and then this morning when I started it and started driving it started making a clicking/rattling type noise ONLY when accelerating and ONLY when I got around 3000rpms. It sounds almost like HLA clatter. I checked the oil and it looks ok, level was good too, oil pressure is good. I watched a couple videos of other miata's with rod knock and a spun bearing and it doesn't sound anything like that. This is a higher pitched knocking tapping sound. It didn't do it at all last night. Pulled the valve cover and I don't see anything that looks out of the ordinary. I'm going to change the oil/filter later and see if that helps. If I drive normally and shift around 3k it drives fine, no noises. |
Sounds like detonation/pinging/knocking. Have you done anything different? Fill up with different gas last night? Anything else?
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I swapped CAS sensors because of a weird high rpm hesitation I was having. I put the sensor on and did the timing. It drove fine last night after I did that, it wasn't until this morning it started doing that. I did fill up with a couple gallons of e85 yesterday afternoon. Again it was fine all last night.
I will double check the timing again when I get home and also perform a compression check. |
old cas coulda been all janky and now you might be running a ton more timing or something.
hard to say really. get videos or audio clips |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1173767)
old cas coulda been all janky and now you might be running a ton more timing or something.
hard to say really. get videos or audio clips This is a thing? |
I have no idea.
I don't waste my time with terrible trigger setups :giggle: |
Well I do plan on going with a crank trigger setup shortly. Oil pump is already tapped for it.
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