g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

Working on my 2.0L BP4W and run into issues, so to document them all, I'll list them here (with photos eventually, I promise).

1)Intake manifold head stud broke. Can not get a nut threaded on to it. Just managed to get it out with a set of vice grips and swearing.

2) FPR from a 91 doesn't bolt up without some hacking

3) Alt bracket from a 91 doesnt' fit (new one on the way)

4) AC bracket from a 91 doesn't fit either


5) It appears the cam gears are indexed wrong.

5A)On the intake cam, with the dowel pointing up, the lobes on cyl 1 should be in 9oclock position correct? with I on cam gear pointing up and the E on the same gear pointing at approximately 4oclock.

5B) For the exhaust cam, with the dowel pointing up, the lobes on cyl #1 should be at 3oclock. The E should be up and the I should be at 8 or so correct?

http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/M...00/305914L.gif

shows I'm right. Set the cams to the right direction, unbolted pulleys, rotated them, bolted back on. Now to wait for parts.

Finally got some time to work on the car this week and it is just painful slow sadly.

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

Timing instructions. Should work fine. I've always just followed what the Haynes manual said. Timing Belt Change

I hear ya on painful and slow. I just started my miata for the first time in almost two years last week and still have a lot of work to do before it's road-ready.

What are your plans for this engine? Don't see too many 2.0s floating about.

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

Engine will be run NA for a year or two. Goal will be to put it through One Lap of America and not win "all the rest" award (for the team that has the lowest points of all entrants that finished every event). I've won the award once, my buddy has won it 2x (once with me), we won't win it again. Maybe after one lap I'll slap some form of FI on it, but that will be after ECU upgrades.

Specs:
CP Pistons 85mm, 10.5:1
Pauter Rods
ARP Rod/Head/cam
Upgraded main caps
Crank knife edged/balanced/worked to 88mm stroke
BP oil pump
Head work by Replika Machinen
Supertech valves, black nitride coatings
Eibach beehive valve springs
Ferrea titanium retainers and locks
Mazda comp lightweight buckets and shims
262 degree cams
Timing Gears
Crank Scraper
Custom Header (Keith Tanner's 2.0 Header that was on his targa car)
2.5" exhaust
Custom Intake manifold (still in design, using OE to get everything running).
LC-1 WB O2
Tec-2 ECU (on the replace list but for now it will work)
450cc DSM Injectors (another upgrade point when the ECU gets done).
Mtuned Fuel rail
Fidanza Flywheel
Max-5 Clutch (PBC unit, was on my turbo 1.6, works well)

I've got some photos to put up, but it'll be a few days. Timing belt and other junk go together tonight, maybe even hanging from the hoist by the end of the night...

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

So the motor fired to life last night.
I have a few issues left in the car so it hasn't moved more than a few feet under its own power yet.

1)Small fuel leak in the dual feed T block (now fixed)

2)No IAC. I'm using the 99 throttle but don't have an IAC pigtail.

3a)Motor won't stay running without some throttle - Not sure what is up here.
3b)around 1500 rpm (where I can keep it running by breathing on the throttle) the map is showing around 60kpa. Not sure if this is the cams or ?
3C)Want to confirm the cam. I know they are Elgin cams. I have the cam sheets for like "all" the cams he sells/sold for the miata. Thankfully the combos of lift on each cam combo is unique so I <should> be able to solve this if Elgin doesn't respond to my info request (10 y.o. cam order afterall). I have access to calipers to take measurements but that will be early next week.
3D)Need to confirm timing. Tec-2 receives timing from a 60-2 trigger wheel. I need to confirm the alignment of the wheel is as expected.

4)I have a smaller K&N filter on the car. Shouldn't be an issue but will upgrade that once I get it running.

Progress is happening. Feels damn good to get this motor running but the high vac and failure to run at idle are a bit troubling. However I only have 10-12 min on a running engine so after 2 years of build & time, a bit more work is expected.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

8 months, no pics This thing sounds like a beast! Custom rods/pistons and reweld & regrind on the crank? I always wondered what happened to that header...

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

quasi progress shots:

This was the 12 pin connector, I replaced these with 16 pin connector. The tec-2 has 14 pins. When I go to another ECU (MS 3.x?) I will pull the harness apart at that point and wire the side of the 16 pin shown connector to the MS3x to mate. Easy swaps since I long ago ditched the 1.6 in place. Photos in progress so visible wires have been removed, cleaned up, etc.


Cam gears, header, etc. That thing BARELY passes the steering shaft. Right now I have a fairly loud clank for the area between header & steering shaft (maybe the cat area?) but until I get the motor running reliably I will have to leave that at a lower priority.

To answer your questions the head was worked by Replika Machinen (first 2.0 builders for FM, yes I had the head cleaned and the intake is NOT worked by them). The head had a silica mold take and sent to CP for pistons manufacture. Reweld & regrind on crank was done by Tennessee Crank? (I have receipt in garage) and they left it slightly oversized on mistake. I found the issue 10 years later. Had to mill the timing cog and main pulley to fit.

I have more photos, so stay tuned....if I can get this damn thing running right. Between kids and work getting a few hours on the car is a challenge.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Oh wow, I remember that header.

Gt2560rMiata

iTrader: (-2)

+1 didnt read his build list. saw that header and knew right away where it came from. I have pictures of that header in my bathroom (grassroots motorsports)

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the header needs to come out and get sandblasted/powder coated/cleaned up with something not that flaking white junk. All in time. It has taken long enough just getting here. I still have a custom intake manifold to build yet.

Funny how the big nasty header photo gets peoples attention

-Greer

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

We have "idle". The failure to idle without throttle input was the missing IAC. However that is stupid loud due to the frequency mismatch (91 ecu powering 99 throttle). Once I could idle and set timing, I was able to drive the car around the block and got 0vac to 22+" vac done at 2,3, and 4k.

New Problems:

The Alternator I have is putting out 11.5-12.2V so I'll have to swap to the other alt I have and see if that fixes the voltage issue.

Idle is still lumpy, and vacuum is terrible at 1100rpms I'm seeing 64kpa (oof).

I am experiencing some bubbles in the coolant overflow tank on engine shutoff. On the drive around the block resulted in the temp gauge climbing towards hot. With hood up and idling there is no heat issue. I'm suspecting the radiator cap (old) is bad, or I have some air in the line from the coolant reroute. Any tricks to getting air out of the hose?

Once I get those issues set, I can work on the base fueling and start driving this thing around the neighborhood. First time it moved around the block in 18 months, felt good.

-Greer

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Did you jack up the nose and let it burp? You may still have air in the head, or as you said, in your reroute hose.

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

After some IAC and other issues, I'm back and running.

The IAC is now a GM IAC (for the TEC-2) running. This took a GM to Ford IAC adapter: GM to Ford IAC adaptor
The ford IAC pattern is the same as the 99+ mazda, so that bolted up, and the tec-2 controls IAC's natively.

I got the new alt in and it is putting out 13-14v so that is solved.

However, the stinking thing overheats at idle now. Even after swapping a new radiator cap in. I managed to drive the car for a few miles without overheating but it did start to creep up again while sitting still.

To do list:
Wire fans to come on in parallel
Buy/Wrap heater core pipes in heat shielding. The header gets damn hot.
Dial in IAC so it will idle at a reasonable setting
recheck timing. Was showing near 0, even when set to 10 with adjustments in the tec-2.
Buy a battery for the laptop. If the engine stalls, the laptop dies, makes data logging a bitch.

Overall it drove about 3 miles, got a bit of sense of the motor, a few runs up to 2, 3, 4, 5k and hard throttle off to make vacuum and get some breakin done.

-Greer

2ndGearRubber

When the header comes out, can you snap a few pictures of the runners and collector(s)? I've only seen pictures from above, and I can still only theorize as to the design.

Every pic is from the same angle!

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

I went ahead and got a Lisle on order...will see if that doesn't help solve the overheating at idle issue. The coolant overheating at idle but coming back to temp while driving is troubling. Full burp of the coolant and wiring the fans should solve that. Then I can get back to timing and tuning issues.

g_reichow

iTrader: (2)

Lisle came in, and after using it, I got several huge bubbles out. However, the overheating at idle was not due to a coolant bubble, but rather a timing issue. I was running ~10 atdc.
<backstory>
The tec-2 uses a 60-2 tooth wheel for ignition timing. The mag pickup should be aligned at the trailing edge of the 11th tooth AFTER the missing 2 teeth. If you aren't perfect, you can set the offset in software.
</backstory>
After finding the timing was off, I ensured all timing zones on the base map around idle were set to 10deg. I rechecked the trigger wheel alignment and found I was off by about 4 teeth. The wheel is not slotted so I can't make quick adjustments unfortunately. So 6 (deg per tooth) * 4 teeth = 24deg. I put 24 in as an offset and reloaded the firmware.

Result: nothing. no change when checked with the timing light...WTF... Repeat from 0 to 30 deg offset with NO ******* CHANGE.

For some reason, it looks like the serial->usb adapter that I have isn't writing the tune file correctly (TBD) as it was not taking any offset at all. I fired up my old laptop, loaded a similar firmware from that and started the car. Boom, idle about 11 deg. The old laptop is garbage (dead fan, no battery), but it proved the issue. Serial to USB fail here it appears? I'll continue to troubleshoot tonight. But at least I know what is up.

-Greer