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Any interest in making another set of your diff and trans mounts? I want to ditch our current setup with the ppf . Good luck at your enduro, our first ecotex swapped tace is this weekend.
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Sure. It will probably be another 2-3 weeks until I have the trans mount ready.
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Well I think I fucked up again by buying used ebay parts. I started playing with the 2011 equinox wiring harness last night and a few of the connectors are wrong for my 2017 motor, and some of the connectors are partially broken. So now I can either buy a new/correct harness for the 2017 motor, buy some new sensors and a new throttle body to match the 2011 harness, or buy connectors and pins and start cutting and splicing.
I put my engine's VIN into one of the gm parts websites and found this: https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-p...g-harness-scat For $80 more I could have had a brand new engine wiring harness that's specific to my engine. Dammit. I'm going to play around with the 2011 harness a little more this weekend before making a decision, but I think I'm going to just order that 2017 harness. |
So I've had an NB2 ABS pump sitting in the garage for a while that I was too lazy to install on my old NA, and I decided I was finally going to use it on this car. I wouldn't complain about having it for street tire enduros. I bought a 929 master cylinder to go with it-- the one with only 1 port for front the front circuit. Now that I'm way behind schedule on this car and I really want to get on track, I've decided to skip the ABS for now and revisit it this winter. I still want to use the 929 master though, so I need a way to tee the front lines.
I really want to use this factory 929 fitting, but it looks like mazda discontinued it and it's NLA everywhere. I tried searching for used 929 masters on ebay hoping one might have the tee still attached, but no luck there either. Does anyone know of a source for it? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...acd15e9599.jpg |
I've spent the last few months finishing up a huge project at work and then spending a ton of time living in hotels for the project install, and I haven't made any progress at all on the miata. While traveling alone and trying to kill boredom, I've been watching the ecotec miata facebook group and seeing more and more racers and track guys having problems with the swap. Most of the problems are relatively minor or could be avoided with a specific preventative maintenance and replacement schedule, but they still slowly killed all of my confidence in using this swap for an enduro car. At one point I convinced myself to ditch the oil pan from the swap kit and go to a dry sump. I even designed a dry sump pan that would fit around the stock subframe but I couldn't get excited enough to start machining it. Then WRL released their 2019 rules, which now require dyno classing to get onto the podium. This kills the small loophole that my LEA engine fell into, which was my main source of excitement for the ecotec swap. With the old rules I was able to legally class the car at 182 factory rated hp while actually running at 200-210whp. New rules force me to class at the 200-210 number, which is a roughly 300lb difference in comp weight or a very heavy detune. Sucks. So I decided fuck it, I'm selling all my ecotec stuff and switching to a standard Kmiata swap. It's more expensive than the ecotec swap, but seems to be much more proven and reliable, and the K series has limitless potential if I get tired of nasa/wrl in a couple years and want to build it into a crazy time attack car or whatever. Only downside is that it's not NASA ST4/5 legal and has to run ST3 with an unfavorable mod factor because of the aftermarket subframe, but whatever, I decided I didn't care. Then, about 3 days after deciding to go Kswap and almost being ready to pull the trigger on a huge Kmiata shopping cart, NASA went and announced that 2019 Nationals is at Mid-Ohio. Mid-O is one of the 3 tracks closest to my house. It's possibly my favorite track that I've driven and I won TTE nationals there in 2012. There's no way I'm not going to have a car to race at Mid-O nationals. The options I came up with: 1. Finish the ecotec swap. The smart choice that's already 95% paid for, but is the least exciting to me and still has potential reliability issues that need figuring out. 2. Go back to a BP setup and run ST5. Surprisingly expensive since I've already sold almost all of my BP stuff, and I would be starting from scratch then shooting for 160+whp. 3. Go back to a BP setup and run ST6. Too slow, and too close to the same car I've been driving for 5+ years now. Not interested. 4. Go back to a BP setup and run ST4 with a TSE turbo kit. Would be an awesome car that's 100% capable of winning Nats at mid-o, but again, would be really expensive since I'm starting back from the beginning with BP stuff. Also I still want to enduro the car a few times a year, and turbo fuel economy is a problem. 5. The nuclear option that I've been dreaming about for over a year but didn't have the balls to take a gamble on: dry sump K24 with stock subframe. The power potential of a TSE turbo miata but with n/a fuel economy for enduros. Lots of development work and potential reliability issues in the beginning, but not much worse than the ecotec and will be way more awesome once finished. Surprisingly, cost ends up about the same as the ST5 option and not much more than a standard K swap. I only need 200-220whp for ST4 so stock TSX engine with bolt-ons will be plenty. I finally said fuck it and placed the order for the dry sump kit this morning. I'm still not 100% sure it's going to work, but I've studied a ton of build thread pictures and taken a bunch of measurements off my ecotec swap, and the only thing left to do is try it and see what happens. 3-5 week backorder for the dry sump kit, so plenty of time to start organizing parts. I'm nervous, but also really excited. Tl;dr - Broke brain. Selling ecotec stuff and attempting a dry sump K24 swap with stock subframe. |
The Pace dry sump kit that I'll be attempting to use:
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2bf6a5c53e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6cbe6bd39f.jpg |
This sounds pretty wicked. If you need a completed one to look over or take measurements from I'm up in Indy and head down that direction every so often.
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In an effort to make this even more complicated and dumb, I'm going to use an S2000 transmission. I can't stand the miata 6sp shifter, even with the MR short shifter, and the adapter plate and flywheel are already available for the K24 and S2000 trans combo. I was already planning to do a PPF delete and custom trans mount with the Ecotec, so trans mount is no big deal. The S2000 trans has the slave cylinder on the driver's side, which should help quite a bit with exhaust routing. Driveshaft is the only thing left to figure out. I was talking through this idea with a friend today and he had the realization that since the S2000 and miata ring and pinions are interchangeable, the pinion/driveshaft flange might be a straight swap into the miata housing. That would mean I can just use a shortened (or maybe even unmodified) S2000 driveshaft instead of starting from scratch with something custom. Rockauto says the S2000 and miata use the same pinion seal, so I'm pretty optimistic. Found a used S2000 pinion flange on ebay today for $37 shipped and jumped on it. Hoping to find a cheap 1.8 NA/NB flange that I can take measurements on and compare to before disassembling one of my miata diffs.
Biggest thing left to figure out is the header. I won't be able to run the exhaust under the engine like Kmiata does, so their headers won't work. David says the OEM TSX header should fit and easily reach my ST4 power goals, so that will likely be my starting point. The best option I've found for the future is to weld a K24 flange onto the big primary Good-win NC header, but I'm still not sure that one will fit. I'll probably buy a stock NC header to test fit this winter. |
Nuclear option indeed!
I did a custom PPF solution when I switched to the BMW trans kit from KMiata. It's probably not what you want to do but it is holding up well. Check the end of my build thread. |
Ballin... Maybe I'll see you in ST4 at Mid-O?? |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1508377)
I did a custom PPF solution when I switched to the BMW trans kit from KMiata. It's probably not what you want to do but it is holding up well. Check the end of my build thread.
My trans mount will be very similar to what hingston did on his F20 swap, see below. Haven't decided yet if I'll do poly engine mounts with rubber mounts for the trans, or delrin engine mounts with a solid mounted trans. https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...e2/#post512327 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...n-p1010114.jpg |
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1508389)
Maybe I'll see you in ST4 at Mid-O?? |
I got all excited when you said you were using the S2000 trans, missing the part where you switched to Honda power, doh!
In the long run, I think you'll appreciate that engine more. |
This makes me so happy.
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I'll be following this, and helping wherever I can
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Lol, props to whoever made the thread title change.
Made some totally unexpected progress this weekend. I learned last week that a friend of a friend has also been working on a K24 swap with S2000 transmission and I spent some time talking to him about it on Friday. A recent job offer in a different city and the accompanying relocation meant that he’s putting the project on hold for a few months and was very interested in clearing out some of the big parts that will be easy to re-purchase later. So I now have a 2NRS adapter plate, good AP1 trans, damaged AP2 trans (was part of the package deal), AP1 driveshaft, and a blown K24 (with all of the steel internals removed so it weighs nothing) that I can use for mockup purposes. Shibby. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2235b167d8.jpg |
Awesome build so far. Cant wait to see moar!
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Received the S2000 pinion flange. I think it's safe to call it "confirmed" that it will be a straight swap into a miata diff housing. The critical diameters are identical and the critical lengths are within a tenth or two of a millimeter of each other.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3361275348.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3311cc938c.jpg The for sale ad wasn't labeled AP1 or AP2 but I got lucky and this pinion flange is from an AP1, which matches the driveshaft I have and the transmission that I prefer. The flange ("companion flange") is only around $120 new if you can't find a used one. The small amount of research that I've done says that the only difference between AP1 and AP2 is that AP1 uses M8 driveshaft bolts (front and rear) and AP2 uses M10 bolts. You can mix and match parts between the two generations by swapping trans/diff flanges or by swapping the ends on the driveshaft. The S2000 has an interesting driveshaft (propeller shaft in honda speak) design with CV joints on both ends instead of u-joints. The CVs are attached the usual way with splines and c-clips so it's super easy to disassemble. S2000s are known for problems with the axle CVs but I've seen very few reports of problems with the driveshafts, so fingers crossed. Now the only question left is driveshaft length. I don't have an exact measurement yet, but so far it's looking like the S2000 shaft will be ~5" too short. Does anyone have experience getting a driveshaft lengthened? I'm guessing the original tube section will go in the trash and they'll just weld the old ends onto a new tube. Custom driveshafts are completely new to me, and I'm not close enough to purchase time to start calling around and bugging driveshaft shops. https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-un...KHdz6gZrpDkEyg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e88a0de6f7.png https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ec8cf4af7.png https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5e8b5593f5.png |
I had a custom driveshaft made for a Ford 302 in a E30 with a....something something not a T-5 transmission. I provided the stock driveshaft and output yoke, but they used their own tube, and sourced a new rear U-joint.
No need to cross your fingers on the stock driveshaft, the axles break when S2000s are lowered without spacing the axles out. It spaces the CVs incorrectly to a point where it damages them and they go ka-boom. Hence no known issues with the CVs on the driveshafts, which is also a BMW thing. |
Sweet. I remember seeing all the little axle spacers for S2000s now that you mention it. Thanks Curly.
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I hope this build works out!
I've been scheming this up ever since the TT4 rules came out, but don't have the cash/cajones to buy a bunch of parts just to see if it fits. My plan was/is to buy the bellhousing adapter from Kmiata and a junkyard K24 and take off the pan/oil pump/balance shafts and just see if it fits with just a block and head. Then if there is any room then I could start working on a dry sump pan and buy a pump/belt setup. |
Received the fine thread M12 bolts yesterday and was able to get the engine/adapter/trans bolted together and dropped in the car last night. This would be much easier if I'd used a miata trans. The S2000 trans is about 3" shorter from bellhousing to shifter, so I'm having to move the engine about 3" farther back than a standard k-swap. That's a good thing overall, but adds some complications to the swap. First is some light interference with the frame rail corner gussets (the things the v6 and v8 guys cut out) on the firewall. I'm unsure whether NASA rules allow me to cut these out, so I'm just going to do some cutting and grinding on the engine block and adapter plate to get the clearance I need. Not a big deal, but wouldn't be a problem with miata trans. Second is that, with the trans so far back, the bellhousing has a slight interference with the top edge of the trans tunnel. NASA rules say I can't modify the trans tunnel, so I'll probably end up cutting a notch in the top of the bellhousing and then welding in a little filler piece. Again, not a big deal, but wouldn't be a problem with miata trans. Third, and worst of all, is pan clearance. With the engine 3" farther back than a standard k-swap, the front pickup point on the Pace pan is very likely going to be a problem. At a minimum I think I need to switch to a dry sump system with the pump and hoses mounted on the intake side, which Pace offers, but I'm afraid I also need to switch to a sump pan with pickups in the center and rear instead of front and rear. That pan design actually exists for the ecotec but not for the K20, lol. Things have been moving surprisingly fast in the past week but this is the point where I'll probably slow down and just stare at things for a while. Pictures below are with the S2000 shifter centered in the miata tunnel hole, and with the block resting on the steering rack. Engine has a good 40-50mm clearance to the (gutted) hood, and needs to be raised about 30mm to get the bellhousing flush with the bottom of the subframe. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...268dafa315.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...742bca5bd6.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...62261bb955.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8ad2782f6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b887edd2a8.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...71f85f6d7f.jpg |
Ecotec pan with a shape pretty close to what I think will work. This pan wouldn't work on standard ecotec swap with miata trans and engine 3" farther forward.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc3cd3ae3f.jpg A.R.E. K20 pan might be able to be modified to work. Cut off the front section of the sump and weld in a flat plate to sit above the steering rack. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6ce4e7d9a4.png I also just discovered that the pictures I've been using for the Pace pan are actually the old, original design. Here's the current design that I have on order, which has even more shit on the front of the pan and therefore less chance of working. The only drawings they have for the pan are the fully detailed internal manufacturing drawings, and they won't share those with me. So I've been kinda working blind. Thankfully my order is placed but they haven't taken my payment yet, so I shouldn't have any problems cancelling if I decide to. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2b5b452b6e.jpg |
Went ahead and bought a skunk2 manifold from Kmiata to use while test fitting. Also dropped in my supermiata crossflow with my custom lean brackets to see what hose routing looks like. The dry sump tank is going to fit nicely right beside the motor, behind the sway bar. I have it mocked up as a 5x20" tank that's available from a few vendors in Europe, but I think I can squeeze in one of the more common 6" diameter american tanks too.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5acde3403.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...947a956444.png Picked up a JDM K24A off ebay earlier this week and it just arrived today. I was looking for a <100k mile USDM K24A2 on car-part.com and all of the ones that looked good were $800 minimum with $300+ to ship and no accessories included. I was getting ready to send payment for one when I found this "62k mile" JDM K24A was on ebay for $950 shipped with full accessories included. I'm still unclear on the exact differences between this motor (RBB-2 head stampings) and the 06-08 USDM TSX motor, but this motor should easily hit my ST4 power goals... if it lasts through my dry sump learning period and I don't blow it up first. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f2a1dc2b99.jpg It came with an OEM TSX header that I was able to go ahead and test fit tonight. No chance it will work with the stock honda outlet flange, but I might be able to cut the flange off and then weld a tight-radius 3" tube directly onto the collector. For anyone looking at these pictures in the future, remember I have an S2000 trans which puts the engine 3-4" farther back than the standard Kmiata setup. Clearance for this header would be worse with the kmiata engine location and a stock subframe. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...80babb7ab5.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ad67fabfcd.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e5116d405.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d940930e90.jpg I've spent a ton of time searching for K-series headers and only found one that I thought had a chance at working for my specific setup: the K-tuned "Ram Horn" header for EG swaps. It sweeps the primaries back a little toward the flywheel and I was thinking I might be able to delete the slip-on 4-2-1 lower section and replace it with a short 4-1 collector. So I found a vendor with a very open return policy and decided to give it a try. It looks super sexy, but the exit angle of the primaries isn't what I expected based on pictures. I was expecting the primaries to be pretty tight up against the block at the collector entry point but they're actually angled away from the block quite a bit, which means a nice quality merge collector would hit the subframe. The cylinder 2 pipe also gets pretty far into my dry sump tank space. I haven't given up on this one yet, but it's looking pretty likely that I'll send it back. I think I'd rather just make a custom header from scratch than hack on this ($550) header until it kinda works with a compromised collector. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...507754ea83.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a43b10d3b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...30dc0eb561.jpg Still not sure what I'll do. The hacked on TSX header will probably work but who knows what kind of power it would make. I'm getting less and less scared of just making my own header, but a friend also had the idea that I could just switch to one of the K24Z motors with the header cast into the head. They suck for trying to make big n/a power, but they can easily hit ST4 power and would make the exhaust routing a piece of cake with the stock subframe. And thinking toward the future, they seem to handle boost very well and it's super dooper easy to bolt on a turbo... |
Ide hack that ram horn. F it.
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I'm finally finished with all of the work travel that's kept me busy for the past few months so I'm making some progress on the swap again. Biggest news is that the dry sump pump arrived on Saturday. It's beautiful enough that I temporarily forgot how much I paid for this thing. My first order of fittings arrived today so I was able to start getting things mocked up. Pump is currently mounted on a piece of 1/4" scrap I had in the garage. The final mount will be 1/2".
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...51fc9b83c9.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d04319ad3d.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...23f0d45b4d.jpg Unfortunately my planned location for the oil tank in the engine bay doesn't work. Things got way too tight with the pump in position, and these -10 and -12 fittings are huge and the hose needs more bend radius than I expected. Tank will get mounted in the passenger footwell, probably attached to the A-pillar downtube of the cage. I checked all the rulebooks for the series I plan to run and the only stipulation I could find for oil tanks and lines was that hoses in the cabin must be braided metal. Fuel tanks have to be separated by a bulkhead, but I can't find any similar requirement for oil tanks. Someone please tell me if I've overlooked it. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ac79d6a7a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...46d7e60100.jpg I started to order bulkhead fittings to get through the firewall, but I need to pass 5 hoses through and the total came out to $250 for 5 bulkhead fittings plus 10 hose ends. 10 hose ends means 10 potential leak points. Passing the hose through cheap rubber grommets was the next thing that came to mind, but then I found this product. It's a nylon plastic "cord grip" used for passing cables into industrial electrical panels. We use them all the time at work, but we use really small ones that are an ugly industrial grey. I checked our suppliers and found this black version with 1" max ID, which is perfect for -10 and -12 hose. Best part: $5 each. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...50c49b0bce.jpg I keep having thoughts of adding boost to this car in a year or two, so I decided to go ahead and overbuild the fuel system since I need to run new lines anyway. -Converting to return style -Karcepts rail with feed in center and return in rear port. Front port will probably get a Jiffy-Tite QD for draining the tank, for racing comp weight and/or E85. -Radium Direct Mount Regulator on the rear port of the rail -Fuelab 818 and flex fuel sensor under the car somewhere -DW200 for now https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5b3228a123.jpg Took the water pump housing to work and did some milling, and plugged the PCV port since it isn't needed with dry sump. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4fe05df813.jpg Returned the K-tuned header from the previous post and ordered some custom header fab parts from Cone Engineering. Collector for 1-7/8" primaries with 2.5" exit, 2.5-3" transition, and "bullet vanes" that supposedly make this cheap formed collector perform pretty close to a $300 merge collector. Total was right at $100 for all of it. I'll cut a head flange on the waterjet at work. I'm going to try to get the header design pretty close in CAD before ordering tubing bends, but that's probably going to be a waste of time since I'm aiming the collector into a pretty small hole and I don't have CAD for the unibody or subframe. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9cb9c897ed.jpg That's all the pictures for now. The JDM K24A that I bought ended up not working very well. All of the accessories are different from the USDM version, and the K24 water neck location on the back of the head was giving me firewall clearance problems. I started asking around locally for a PRB head and some of the other parts that I needed, and ended up finding a local Honda pro who had a K24A2 bottom end and a PRB sitting on his shelf in the garage, waiting for the right customer to come along. He was interested in the JDM engine for his personal racecar, so we struck a deal for him to build me a "refreshed" K24A2/PRB frankenstein motor as a trade for my JDM K24A. That engine should be ready in a couple weeks. Many excites! |
Slow progress again since I've spent the last 3 weeks assembling and shipping a bunch of hub orders (I'm half of miatahubs.com.)
I placed a few hose and fitting orders and finally settled on the scavenge fittings for my oil pan. I was planning to use the Dailey Engineering machined flange elbows, but at the very last minute when the pump was shipping, I found out they're only made in -10 size and not -12 like I wanted. I'm trying to keep all of my scavenge lines -12 with as few restrictions as possible. Should have just cancelled the -10 Dailey fittings when I found out about no -12, but they're returnable and I wanted to see them in person. I tried a -10 ORB to -12 male AN adapter but it was still smaller ID than the hose, and the -12 wrench flats were too big and interfered with the pan. Setrab banjos were the next best option I could find. They come in M22x1.5 with a face seal, which is super easy to machine and works well with the thin wall of my pan (doesn't need a machined o-ring pocket like ORB fittings.) They're sexy and awesome, but $170 for a pair of fittings and have 3 o-rings and a constant swivel to potentially leak. Aeroquip -12 to 3/4NPT elbows have potential to leak at the threads, but they have less restriction and fewer total leak points, so they're the winner. They're also only $20 each. Since I'm making my own pan I'll be able to control the NPT tap depth and get the fitting roughly the same installed height as the other options, which gets me a safe amount above the bottom of the subframe. And I'll also be able to control the tap depth to clock the fitting where I need and still get good torque for a good seal. Returning the Setrab and Dailey fittings this week. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1c29e93b45.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6aa546b4c6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...92df8f273d.jpg Made a quickie laser template to confirm oil pan clearance before starting machining. Hoping to get it machined in the next couple weeks, but our machine shop is SLAMMED right now with no signs of letting up soon. Shitty timing, but I have plenty of other stuff to work on while waiting. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...68706ee421.jpg And some pictures of hubs, just because. In a couple weeks these will be on pretty much all of the fastest miatas in the country. :) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da3840a48f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e1720ead95.jpg |
And at least 1 slow miata! Those hubs seem like the answer. I know Aaron has had a ton of luck with them.
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The OEM hubs look so inadequate in comparison
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Scratch what I previously said about not getting the pan machined for a while. I found out thursday that we were going to have an unexpected opening in the machine shop this weekend, so I rushed to get some material ordered and delivered on Friday. Spent most of yesterday and today working on it and I'm pretty happy with how it came out, especially the fact that it fits! :) I intentionally left the finish a little rougher than what's possible since I didn't want to overstay my welcome with the boss letting me use the machine. It took about 7 hours total for the top and bottom setups; could have easily been 10-15 hours or more for a mirror finish. Started with 42lb of aluminum and ended with 7lb. Pictures speak better than words...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd52961ce2.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7fa1d74842.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f95e96abcd.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d6aec9118.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89d953ed01.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...55c1f79386.jpg Test fit in the car. It's hard to get decent pictures without a lift, but I tried. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9918935602.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...03d9907d2c.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c07db26550.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...425b26c4f1.jpg |
.... In for kit....
Just playing. Amazing work as always! |
that oil pan is hot!
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Excellent design work on that pan!
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