Yup. And why I decided to stick with pump gas. Don't need the extra power. As a bonus, we can run a capacitive fuel level sender (Aircraft Spruce Motorsports) like we did in Crusher a decade ago. Much more accurate and fluctuates less.
Capacitive sensors don't work with E85.

Also decided to ditch the trans and diff coolers. We'd get a little bit of temp in the diff with the turbo, but trans ran cool. Drops about 25lb and a handful of failure points.

I can see the light at the end of tunnel on Vegas. I miss driving it.

I wrote out a post but deleted it saying the same thing lol. You'll hate yourself if you make the car too fast in LD. Our bone stock (with less weight) 330ci runs decently in B class. I realize you'll be running in A, but yeah, fully agree with Curly

Interesting info about the trans. How long was it ran for? We’re adding FI power too*, and figured diff and trans coolers would be a good idea.

*while I say don’t make your car too fast, it’s much easier to pass or keep the position on straights than corners, something we were lacking in A. Our main rivals were a couple of LS mustangs, turbo 5 cyl, and an ungodly amount of S54s against our 180hp Miata.

The Quaife has maybe maybe 10 hours on it. But it never ran hot even when the the cooler pump was turned off. Since we'll be running about half the power we used to run, we figure we can delete the cooler.

Two strategies for gaining track position budget enduro. One is just having more straight line speed than everybody, getting in front and blocking. That describes most of the big cars with a lot of top end speed and so so fuel economy. They still handle pretty well but they are dead in the water without their top end speed.

Our strategy is to be not quite as fast as the cars with a lot of power but get much better fuel economy. A K24 being shifted at about 6500 RPM with the close ratio sequential transmission in a 2100 pound miata with slick aero and 15 gallons of fuel capacity might just do it. Or maybe not and we'll just get our asses kicked. Either way we'll have a lot of fun and have some cool videos.

We're putting a live video and telemetry set up into the car. The hope is that we can stream some of this stuff. Seeing a bunch of other teams doing it so I figure why not.

Rapid progress now that we have ditched the engine relocation tangent.
Mated our existing 3" turbo exhaust to the Kpower crossover pipe. Next is installing the EPS. Our kit utilizes a Chevy Equinox motor thing. Hoping we can get the feel dialed in.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f46701913e.jpg

EPS is on my list, I keep forgetting about it. It would come in handy at NCM particularly because of that damn fish-bowl turn, even in the ~20min sprint races.

One tip on the exhaust, cut this little guy off. It's a known failure point on several others. Ends up leaving a hole in the down-pipe. Unsure if your flex-pipe would help or not.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...79d2076128.jpg

Sub’d for reference

Also, are you guys planning to run the SM crossover radiator with this build? That’s what I have now and hoping I can re-use for my K24Z3 swap.

Dunno. We'll see when it starts going together.

Progress, now with 100% more Quaife Sequential.
Flex joint touches the trans, as its a bit wider than the OEM trans. We can adjust things to fix that. Cut the brace off the DP that attached to the bellhousing. Wiring in the Haltech 1500. Fitted an 86 DBW TB with Kpower adapter.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4e875837fc.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d852b4c4aa.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...35a88d8a83.jpg

Wiring diagram stuff for those who really want to suffer. For the Accord, but it all matched the harness that came with the engine.

Alternator
1 BLK/YEL IG FUSED +12V
2 WHT/GRN C PCM Alternator Control, about 7.5V
3 WHT/BLU L PCM Alternator L Signal
4 WHT/RED FR PCM Alternator FR Signal
Wiring Diagram | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide
Alternator Control Circuit Troubleshooting | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide
Charging System Circuit Diagram | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide

Throttle Body
1 RED/BLK TPSA Position Sensor A
2 BLU VCC3 5V
3 RED/BLU TPSB Position Sensor B
4 GRN SG3 GROUND
5 GRN/YEL ECTSM- Motor -
6 BLU/RED ECTSM+ Motor +
Cruise Control Circuit Diagram | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide
Electronic Throttle Control System Diagram | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide

Wiring Diagram | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide ECM/PCM Wiring diagram 1/2
Wiring Diagram | Honda ACCORD 8G 2008-2012 DIY Repair Guide ECM/PCM Wiring diagram 2/2

So...you going to make it to LDRL @ Laguna in a couple weeks?! I'm crewing for two of our BMWs. Finally have some decent renters, so I'm hoping they'll perform well.

We campaigned our NA ecotec swap in A class for as long as we could at 185hp, but a turbo is in the works. We needed to take a year or two off to achieve some of the details you've got into this chassis, so I'm loving the video, thanks.

At the Thunderhill race in November, the top 10 A class cars were either S54 or turbo powered, if it weren't for the bracket racing SD elicits, it would have been a more enjoyable event than the T25 a couple weeks later.

Ha, no. We are a bit behind schedule. I think we can have the car fully sorted by March or April.

What did you guys end up doing on the flywheel?

Got one made eventually. It's a one off and that supplier doesn't want to make more.
So we'll run the Quaife with our light weight twin clutch.

Vegas is for sale. I have run of desire to go racing. Hopefully someone local buys it so I get to drive it later.

https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale...3/#post1630336