I will be getting a OEM hardtop on mine pretty soon, so I will delete the soft top then and go with some Home Depot carpet, as well.

Almost forgot. Threw it on the scales. 2441 lbs with 1/4 tank as shown in above pics. Reckon we can get it to 2370 dry w/o driver when all the rest of the bits are on. Not super light but it'll do. Decided against the trubo. Too many $ and lower reliability. I think we can hit 175-180whp on E85 with bolt ons. Bit less lbs/hp than Blub, our 86 project but Kaiko should turn and stop a bunch harder to make up for it. That would put it 5-7s under Spec Miata lap records on most tracks I think. Should be fun.

Oh and there's this option if we can't hit 180 with the stock IM..
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...99aaceedc2.jpg

No turbo now? I sense a 2.5 swap coming along!

I know the 2.5 is popular but frankly it doesn't appeal to me. The donor engines are cheap but the swap itself isn't. Bone stock they have a truck kind of power band.

You sound like a 1.6 guy talking about how much better it is then the 1.8.

I still love you, and I think you will come around to the 2.5 eventually.

Also not sold on 2.5 reliability on track after watching multiple people go through countless engines lol.

You're missing a nice Moon Dyno mostly.

What exactly do you mean by internal mods E? I've done 200 whp multiple times with just cams and bolt ons in junkyard 2.5 long blocks on 91 octane SAE corrected. It's a simple and cheap formula with no internal mods needed. Plus the powerband is so much fatter, average power is WAY up compared to any 2L build. I do swaps turn key in 200 whp spec for $3500. Much cheaper and less fussy than a turbo setup by the time you make it track reliable.

Also, the only way those ITBs would do anything for you is on an engine with MUCH bigger cams and more compression than stock, 2L and 2.5L. You would be slower around a track with them using any stock camshafts, period. At that point if you are doing cams, why not use the larger displacement as a base - enjoy a cheaper donor engine, more average power everywhere, more peak power and a great powerband peaking around 7k rpm?

Dyno of junkyard 2.5L with cams, header back exhaust, intake pipe and tune on 91 octane: https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachmen...2&d=1623201584

Adding the Dynosheet vteckiller linked inline. Curious to hear thoughts on this, I'm trying to get my NC knowledge up to scratch in case I end up with one LOL
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3a5c7c69a0.png

I consider opening an engine, oily bits "internal mods", cams for example. But that's not important.
190whp on the 2.0 is ITB's and E85 on stock cams. 210 or so with cams. No swap needed. Or 175whp on E85 with unopened 2.0, stock IM/cams. I get that the 2.5 ultimately has greater power potential due to the displacement increase. Not rocket science. I also get the actual swap isn't free. Everyone talks about the power potential but it just seems like a lot of $ and time for 20whp. Not to mention the possibly questionable reliability of a stock internal 2.5 at 7500rpm full load use that the NC2 motor will shrug off.

Lay out the dollar per whp for me: 2.0 with vs 2.5 with assuming reflash, I/H/E, unopened engine, E85.

I would love to see these dynos. My understanding is that the MZR is not super det limited with stock pistons. I know your normal gas is shit in Cali so maybe e85 provides you some benefit but it's definitely not adding much if any power over good 93 elsewhere. I have never seen dynos that support the numbers you are giving in this thread for the associated mods. I am planning on keeping my 2.0 myself and will be putting cams, PPE LTH, and something for the intake side (have not decided on ITBs or plenum). I'm only expecting to be able to get 190-195 genuine whp out of it on 93.

Edit: a 1/4 mile timeslip to support any moon dyno results would also be appreciated.

Not even close. Stock cam 2L with any intake manifold will struggle to make more than 160-165 whp on any fuel. The ITB would do nothing but hurt you on a stock engine, period. I've tuned and tested nearly every combination of engine parts for NCs in existence. The stock cams are incredibly small for the head flow and the most I have ever made or seen on stock cams in a 2L is 168 whp with unicorn bolt ons on a STD correction and race gas.

Slap an esslinger oil pan on and limit revs to 7300 and you would have no difference in reliability over a 2L MZR of any vintage. BTW you will need that oil pan on a 2L as well with your proposed chassis specs and tire size if you want it to live a life measured in more than a few track hours.

Stock cams per your request (which is silly with the gain/$ cams deliver):
2.0L - 160 whp/130 wtq - roughly $3000 in parts for full exhaust, intake pipe and tune for E85
2.5L - 180 whp/180 wtq - roughly $5500 in parts and labor assuming you dropped the car off with me (for argument purposes only) and asked for a turn key swap, E85

Here's the thing, add cams and you are in a different ballpark entirely:
2.5L with cams - 200whp/190wtq - roughly $6500 turn key on 91 octane. +5/5 at the wheels on E85

And for the fun of it:
2L with ITB and stock cams - 165whp/135 wtq - about $6k including the bolt ons you mentioned above (you might be able to stretch to 170, MIGHT). Not a good value.

If you are able to install a BP in one of your other cars, you can install a converted and cammed 2.5L, it drops in like stock. I am sure one of the vendors who specialize in 2.5L NCs or myself would be happy to send you a pallet with a ready to install cammed 2.5L for considerably less than the stated amount above as well if you are concerned with cost that would more than meet your expectations and save you the ~12 hours of install labor cost.

For further data, this is the highest output 2L I have ever seen and it was max effort, cams, highly tuned header, E85 with an intake manifold that would perform similarly to the ITBs:

https://forum.miata.net/vb/attachmen...8&d=1560964784

E85 will do nothing on an otherwise stock 2.0.
You should see no gain over 93 octane which is where MBT is reached.
Tested live on a dyno where I tuned my base versatuner maps for my customers (I am on their Pro program so if anyone needs some help with maps etc on a NC, reach out).

And I would only swap to a 2.5 if your 2.0 breaks.

E85 will make 5% just from the additional hydrocarbons, regardless of MBT.

It's more like 1-2% if you're referring to a stoich mixture of E85 vs a stoich mixture of 93. You're talking like 2-4hp maybe. Besides, the above posted Dyno of a 2.0l with e85 tells a different story. You absolutely need cams to make it to 190whp.

On my 182 whp NC street car which was at MBT on pump 91 I measured a 2-5 whp delta in power with E85 with various runs.

I'm not trying to poop in your Cheerios, just level set your expectations with what the data has shown possible with your proposed combos over the last few years.

1-2% from E85 does not match my experience on the dyno and tuning stuff myself. Not just Miatas. Keep in mind CA is 91 so we don't always reach MBT on any production car. But that's academic at this point. Still not sold on the 2.5. Agree that it's a great option for most and still recommend it often. Just might not be what I personally want. Thanks for the input in any case.

Exhaust bits coming in. Hooker header, Magnaflow 5571437 CARB resonated midpipe, GWR street single muffler.
Header looks well made. Hope the whole setup isn't too loud. Plan to do some A/B dyno pulls to see what the header makes on a bone stock NC2.
I'll be happy if we hit 175whp after E85, reflash and intake. I'd rather not open it up for cams and valve springs.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...50fbdacd0c.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b90c52e1fb.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f80021c27.jpg

Progress on drivetrain. New driveshaft, prototype Supermiata Sport clutch. Production Supermiata light aluminum flywheel (in stock). Trans is a blueprinted NC1 6spd from Walter Motorsports in GA. We have been using WM for our built transmissions for a while now. Highly recommended if you're going to be beating on it.

5spd 78.5 lbs
6spd 95 lbs
OEM flywheel 16.1
SPM flywheel 8.3

Clutches should start shipping around May of this year. 5 and 6spd variants. Puck or hybrid (Kevlar/organic) disc.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b94a4a087.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0dc6cda919.jpg

That's some great news on the clutch, if that would be at the same price point as the exedy it can be the new industry standard.

Wow, I didn't realize the 5 speed was so much lighter than the 6 speed. Are you using the 6 speed because it should be stronger?

Better gearing primarily.

Sneak peak of our new wheels. Still many months away. The final wheel will have further machining detail on the spokes and be tilt cast + flow form. The VIA test wheel is actually forged.
Standard load is 690kg and 100k cycles for forged, 125k cycles for cast. Normal cornering fatigue test just goes to 125k cycles and stops. We're going to test two identical wheels until failure to better correlate to our in house FEA fatigue sims.
We'll test at 830kg. We hope to be able to more accurately correlate our FEA data to real world. Anyway, the clear coated and otherwise rough test wheel is still damn pretty.

Looks cool. What sizes and applications will be first?

TBD
On the hot list currently
17x9/10 5 lug
18x10/11 5 lug
15x8 4 lug
15x9 4 lug

C5 Corvette offset maybe? :party:

Brake things.
12.88x1.1
Superlite
7420 pad

Many bump travel

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f96cff5bb.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f8914981a5.jpg

What, those pads don't come in orange? I am disappoint.

They do in some compounds :)
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f998a494ab.jpg

I hope those brakes will fit my 17x8's for when I drive on the street. They look massive, so probably not...

These are a pair of Coto test wheels. We're using these to run a VIA test protocol here in the US. We'll use the resultant data to refine our in house FEA results.
These are 18x10 +40. Rear has a 12mm spacer.
They were too pretty to not mount up and take some pics. These test samples are a bit different than production wheels will be. No 3D ball mill in the "U", thicker outer flange and few other small changes. We'll also paint the production wheels. No plans for the bare CNC & clearcoat finish of the test wheels.

Meanwhile, Kaiko's header is getting ceramic coated. Once it's back, we're on the road. Planning the first track day in a few weeks at Buttonwillow.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8ddf31a8cd.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a143d13cad.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...68a3575f11.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...803188e0b5.jpg

First track day with engine mods
 

First track day with the engine mods last weekend at Buttonwillow. Weather conditions weren't ideal for fast laps but we had fun. Very windy. Base set up was really close right off the trailer. Only change we made was bumping front RB sway bar from middle to stiff setting and playing damping settings with pressures. Ended up 6 clicks front, 5 rear. 600/400 springs. I want to try 700/450 next. Also swapping to the larger Progress sways for next event. RB is 25.4mm and we had a 16mm Whiteline rear. Progress are 28.6mm and 17mm. Needs more front bias sway bar rates than what we had.
Still rubbing rear tires on inside pretty heavily despite 15mm spacers. That's with 18x10 +45 and 265/35 RT660's. Bumping to a 20mm spacer to see if that cures the rubbing. Less rubbing in front (no spacer) but I think we'll need to add a 5mm there too. Gearing way too tall with the 6spd x 4.1. Barely got halfway through 4th. Needs like 4.77 diff with the power we have. Nothing OTS so we'll have to get an RX7 R&P adapted or something custom made I think.

Also needs more power. Too much tire for the 155whp I'm guessing we have now. Would have been faster with 245/40 on 17x9's I think. Ran out of time to get the big G Stream wing on but glad now. It would have just slowed it down. Really don't want to pour a bunch of money into this build as it's just an occasional toy for us. Definitely no turbo, Not a fan of 2.5 swaps because I like revs and don't necessarily want to build a full forged 2.5 longblock. ITB's, maybe, but they're not cheap and I don't look forward top getting it tuned. Cams actually make sense along with the flexfuel kit we ordered. Maybe 165-170whp with cams, dunno. Haven't had it on the dyno since we put the exhaust and intake on.
Currently
Hooker header
Magnaflow catted high flow midpipe with resonator
GWR street single muffler
CPT (ebay) CAI with AEM dry filter
Ecutek race rom with my tune. Got a little coaching from Matt at Orange Virus. Was struggling with MAF calibration, crazy lean no matter what I did. Gave up and called him. After a few tries he gave up on MAF and switched to SD too.
I finished up safe base tune for this weekend. Need to get on dyno and start proper tuning. Doesn't feel much faster than stock now, maybe 5-10whp bump from stock. We'll see once we get it on the rollers.
Big Superlite 12.88x1.1 prototype brakes were bitchin. No ducts or anything so we plan to fab some defectors. Balance/bias with R12 front and R10 Gloc pads was perfect. Castrol SRF.
Kaiko is pretty porky. 2440 lbs w/ fuel, no driver.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...409e78d186.jpg

Nice to see it finally on track. When it comes to the ITB's, the complaints I see are just for street drivability, but fine on track. For the 4.77 rear, how about just doing the RX8 rear diff swap? The S2 RX8's had a 4.7 stock and the rear hubs are stronger on the RX8 or something like that.

Our diff already has a custom tuned OSG and we already have RX8 hubs/uprights with custom axles. NB/NC are 7" gear. RX8 is an 8" gear, much heavier and more than we need for <200whp.
Ben Herne (Puddymod) just responded to an earlier msg and he can do a 4.77 swap in our NC diff so we'll go that route.

stupid question maybe (& I've probably missed the info if posted:bang:) but, whats the origin of the NC diff? is there parts interchangability with NA/NB 7" or larger like the Bongo / Ranger diff?

Rich.

AFAIK It does not share any internal parts with anything else. Seems like any miata or S2000 bits require internal mods to adapt. No PNP gear options other than the EU.

Your MAF issues are likely a dirty MAF sensor. I usually can get the MAF dead on within 2-3 flashes unless the sensor is nasty. Building a SD tune for a header and intake pipe engine is lulzy, but I am glad you have gotten it on track :)

The correct scaling for the CPT intake is stock*1.1873 FYI.

Thanks for the tip!

G-Stream 800 fitted. The included mounts are universal so we needed a base to adapt to the compound curve of the NC trunk. John scanned the trunk and printed these. If anyone here is planning on G-Stream wing for their NC, email us for the STL file. You can then CNC or print your bases. Not much else done to it since last post. Ran it at Buttonwillow a month ago without the wing. Was good right out of the box but still needs some fine tuning on the set up. We're upping the spring rates, probably 800/500 and swapping the Whiteline 24mm FSB to a Progress 28.6mm. Also Trackspec hood louvers and fender vents. Oh and the C30-94 Rotrex from BBR. Should be fun.
https://www.g-stream.com/collections/comp800

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69a5b05757.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cebf9afb65.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a9203563f7.jpg

We definitely need details on the Rotrex!

That is one nice looking kit! I'm always excited to see you guys playing with Rotrex stuff since it's usually so simple/reliable. A NC with good suspension, tires and 300 WHP sounds like a riot.

Forgot to mention, we're also adding a Xero Limit oil cooler and flexfuel kit. Mike was responsive and helpful on getting the right hardware for our install. The Rotrex install will interfere with the oil coolers filter relocation brackets so we did something a bit different.
We'll post details on the solution once its in. Probably ID 1050XDS injectors.

New shifter
 

So our car had a 100% new from Mazda shifter assembly. Bushings, shifter, everything. Was sloppy as hell. Hated it. John found this https://www.gracingshifters.com/
Run by Keith Goldin. Same dude that brought the crystal mod for NA/NB to the community about 20 years ago.

Maybe 100mm taller rod than OEM. Throws are tiny, maybe 20% of OEM. Zero slop. Centering spring firm enough to allow really fast 2-3 upshifts without fear of the moneyshift. Reverse lockout is unique. You twist the shift knob clockwise about 25° and it pops into reverse gate. Slick.
The knob on this one is a proto of the upcoming weighted Delrin Supermiata and 949 Racing (86) knobs. We'll have two designs. This is the big one. The other is smaller, close to OEM shape.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...181b88fb6c.jpg



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...468a89b834.jpg

Videos

I second that that shifter is awesome. I replaced my very well-worn stock shifter before my first track day and it helped a lot. I will definitely pick up one of those delrin shift knobs when you release them.

I'll be interested to hear your long-term review of this product - their shifters are interesting, but any more I wait until a product or vendor has been around for a while before I jump in. Well, aside from the K-swap. And the boxmount brakes. And the 863.. aw dammit.

If anyone is wondering why we swapped the standard aluminum knob for Delrin, metal shift knobs get very hot on track or long highway drives. Enough to burn an ungloved hand in our experience. So for race cars where you always wear SFI gloves, maybe OK but they still get hot. But for a street or HPDE car that's mostly driven without gloves.. Ouch.

More bits arrived or on their way.

BC cams BC0401, stage 2 - here
Motoeast/Xero Limit flexfuel kit - here
Stage 2 BBR Rotrex kit - on its way

Neal Mckay will do the base map once we send the current ROM and a few datalogs (ecutec racerom). I'll finish up the tune if needed. Looking forward to some horsepressures.
No particular power goal, just want it to stay together for a least a year. If it goes pop, we'll have Esslinger build a new longblock. Should hit 300whp with ease and not need to rev it past OEM redline.

Toys!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...563c0c9e2f.jpg

Big Bootied Racecars?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ff23fa8402.jpg

Most likely a new steering wheel

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...802b0cdbe8.jpg

That's way more fun

@emilio700 I didn't know you hired Jhony C onto the team

I was unaware that one glowed in the dark

Lmfao have a cat.