Maybe 150 miles. Familiar with the materials. We are a Supertech and Wiseco dealer. Having built many engines with both over the years we always find better oil control with the Wisecos even though their relatively loose fit when cold should theoretically increase oil consumption. But if the 2.3 Wisecos aren't the right geometry, we'll use ST's with Wiseco XX rings.

But yeah, things don't add up with the failure. We'll know soon and share findings.

ITT carnage
 

Anyway to differentiate NC1 and NC2 longblocks externally?
Guessing it got some blowby, which led to det, which led to snapped rod. Or maybe not. Off to Keegan and we'll see what he says.

There is something you don't see very often when looking at an engine.. the other side of the shop.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b9adf73e40.jpg

boom
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...765dab7c75.jpg

hmm
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c62921ad9.jpg

That does appear to be the correct forged crank. What was the P/N of the long block you purchased?

Also the right P/N. Dead end assuming you got what you paid for.

Can you put the original engine back in the car? Honestly the late ones are very hardy and I wouldn't hesitate to bolt the Brotrex to the original one.

Nope. We damaged the original head trying to put the cams in. Bottom end is fine. Plan was to just use the original 100k motor as it very healthy. But I want to put it to bed so we're putting forged rods and pistons in.