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kb10AE's Kaizen
1999 10th Anniversary Edition #1371. 200,600 miles and counting
Engine: 2001 block with OEM 9:1 pistons, Manley forged rods, ACL main and King rod bearings, Boundary billet oil pump gears, Motorsports oil pan baffle Gates WP and Kevlar racing timing belt 99-00 MS3PNP Supermiata crank pulley/damper with 36-2 trigger wheel Self port/polished 2001 VVT head with Volvo/VS855 springs. ARP head studs OEM Mazda COP's Skunk2 throttle body Squaretop manifold CXRacing/custom intake AWR Engine mounts 4-2-1 Header with DEI LR heat wrap Roadstersport V3 midpipe + muffler CSF 42mm aluminum radiator Garagestar flow panel Drivetrain + Safety: OEM 6-speed transmission (2001 donor with 47k miles swapped in after engine rebuild) MiataRoadster shifter kit 3.9 Torsen LSD I.L. Motorsport 15lb chromoly flywheel Supermiata organic sport clutch and pressure plate Hard Dog Double Diagonal roll bar and harness bar Corbeau FX1 Pro drivers seat on PCI brackets Corbeau 5-point camlock harness Autopower seat back brace Jass Performance hardtop brackets Suspension: Hard-S Bilsteins rebuilt and revalved by Whitener Racing with extended top hats; 700f/400r Hyperco springs, coilover sleeves, roller bearings, 5x Racing bushings and bump stops ( Energy Suspension Poly bushings all-around including differential Bauer extended lower ball joints OEM R-package tie rod ends IL Motorsport shock tower brace with incorporated brake master cylinder brace Racing Beat tubular front sway bar with support blocks 5x Racing 14mm rear sway bar Supermiata end links Wheels/Tires/Brakes: 15x8 6UL's in bronze | 205/50 Bridgestone RE71R OEM calipers, stainless lines, PowerStop track-day pads, Centric coated rotors, Motul RBF600 Singular motorsports brake ducts Aero/Cosmetic: OEM Hardtop | GJRacing bikini top Track Dog Racing front bumper lip Galvez Customs duckbill spoiler Custom fog light intakes for engine air and brakes Morimoto HID headlight retrofit Lifeline side mirrors on Jass mounts https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d27bf953f.jpg 2019 SCCA Time Trials Nationals at Portland International Raceway https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b484589739.jpg 2019 NASA HPDE at Utah Motorsports Campus |
Brief background on myself and the car:
The first event I ever did was in 2015 at an HPDE in my 09' Subaru Legacy GT at Pikes Peak International Raceway. I had only just completed my first-ever oil change and basic car maintenance a few weeks prior to that. Even though I had always been interested in cars, that was the first time I ever worked on a car myself. It only took that one HPDE to realize how different and more difficult track-driving was compared to "aggressive street driving". So from that point forward, I knew without serious modifications, the Legacy GT would not be suitable for a track car. About 6 months later after moving to Washington, I bought a 91' Mazda 626 to teach myself how to drive a manual. I knew "how to", but had no experience driving in traffic or anything that would prepare me for what I ultimately wanted to do - drive a manual on track. I ended up fixing it up a bit and sold it for a minor profit so win-win! I continued to teach myself car maintenance but it was still all pretty basic. After moving again to Idaho in 2016, I sold my Legacy GT and bought my Miata. The plan was to autocross in ES the following year, so that winter I continued my self-education and replaced the shocks, sway bars, exhaust, etc. I believe I completed in 5 different autcross events but learned it isn't really for me...I need to go faster and have more than 1 minute at a time to drive agressively. In 2018 I only did one autocross and one sanctioned Hill Climb event put on by the Northwest Hillclimb Association. That was fun but still too much standing around and not enough seat-time for me. Going from 2018 into 2019, I continued modifying my car and preparing for track events. The summer of 2019 was the first time I ever took my Miata on a race track and first time since 2015. I don't have a trailer so I drove to them all from Boise and would swap some things around once I got to the track. I ran the following events: April: HPDE at Utah Motorsports Campus. Only ran 1 day (4 20-minute sessions) but I was signed off by my NASA instructor for HPDE2. June: SCCA Time Trials Nationals at Portland International Raceway. 2 days August: HPDE2 at Utah Motorsports Campus. 2 days. 6 hour enduro was going on on Saturday so lots of teams were testing, leading to lots of fast traffic. Super fun To be completely honest, during that last track event in August 2019, was the first time I started feeling truly comfortable on-track. I wasn't uncomfortable before, there is just simply so much to take in that its easy to get overwhelmed and lose your concentration. A little visual history... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c836d13f58.jpg This is in the Spring of 2017, a few months after I bought it for $4500 from a guy in Baker City, Oregon. 187k miles, no rust (except for front sway bar mounts) and included the original hardtop and a side-braced deuce rollbar. According to the carfax it was originally in Missouri for about 7 years before coming to Oregon and staying there until I brought it to Idaho. Drilling out the front sway mount bolts while replacing worn out OEM Bilsteins with Koni sports, RB front sway + blocks and RoadsterSport 3 exhaust (Goodwin's "ES Autocross" kit)... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...308b2639b2.jpg Going for a drive in the mountains... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a7ba79c823.jpg |
Misshap coming down the mountain...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...693286d38f.jpg Spun out and smashed a guard rail coming down the mountain. Had to wait an hour for a tow truck. Many lessons learned that day. Replaced the right rear lower control arm + long bolt and wheel for a few hundred bucks and good to go. Upgrading headlights while fixing the car... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5917b473f.jpg Ditched the spoiler and back on the road... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fb63ee00bd.jpg |
Playing with dash lighting with various LEDs...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...67a3ab9fd5.jpg Interior improvements.... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a223da308b.jpg Taking it out for a spin after picking up some new wheels... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8a8bf0d87e.jpg |
I got backed into while sitting in traffic. Surprisingly she did buff out okay, minus a dent...
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c5bff7c6e4.jpg Another opportunity to upgrade! NB2 headers... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8588073749.jpg Completely destroyed OEM engine mount... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b28fd36eb2.jpg Nothing special here, just a beatiful Idaho sunset reflecting off the hood and a little glimpse at how the headlights look... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de422f2830.jpg |
Trying to get rid of some rattles...little did I realize the sickness had taken hold and I'd be bashing the shit out of the trans tunnel within the year to fit my seat in
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d7cc894522.jpg New midpipe... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7434383a63.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bf34b25e75.jpg |
Doggo inspecting VVT engine from yossi overseas. Eveything checks out!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba6cece2b9.jpg Another visitor inspecting the area... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b932b9304.jpg Installing FM springs and some Supermiata top hats just to get that sweet sweet orange even though my originals were fine... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...835f7f9dc7.jpg Prepping for the inagural dual-duty track car season... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e489a63881.jpg |
Camping out at UMC in April. Love that place...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...73564aba50.jpg Garage kitty welcomes us home... https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b66b9058a.jpg Living that 200,000 mile plus track car life... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7542e39a89.jpg |
Winter overhaul has begun...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4913692f42.jpg Money-shifted to 3 instead of 5 and went above 8k rpm for a second when in Portland...I suspect that is the main cause of these toasted rod bearings... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...baa6b59ce4.jpg |
Things I'm doing as part of my winter overhaul and current status:
Building a VVT motor and replacing the original Swapping 3.9 diff for 3.63 Replacing original 6-speed trans for 2001 donor with 47k miles and adding a MiataRoadster shifter kit Replacing all OEM suspension bushings with poly I'm going to be dropping some things off at the machine shop soon. Getting a hone at the minimum and potentially balance the rotating assembly. My goal with this build is a solid dual duty street/track car with the potential to add mild boost in the future but main goal of being a higher redline N/A build around 7500-8000 rpm that can consistently be ran to redline with insurance against a catastrophic failure. |
Most of you I'm sure will also be happy to hear I'm having Whitener racing rebuild my original Bilstein's and doing a DIY coilover setup to ditch the Koni's :riaa:
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I’ve run race-valved (I believe by Whitener) bilsteins on DIY coilovers on my NB1 race car and was very happy with how they performed.
Not quite as good as XIDAs or other proper race dampers, but really very good for the money. Car looks nice, the bump in power with the new engine build should be nice. Quick question: why the 3.6 rear end? Are you planning for big power/forced induction longer term? If you’re planning on staying N/A around ~150whp, I’d highly recommend a 4.3 rear with the six speed. That sh*t is rowdy. Not great for a highway cruiser but is awesome on track.... |
How are your control arm bushings looking after 200k miles?
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Car looks excellent.
Indeed, i wouldn't recommend going to 3.63 without turbo power. I had 230whp and 3.63 with a 6 speed in my 10AE and that was still marginal, often wished for a 3.9. Would definitely stick with the 3.9. |
If you're sticking to NA, go the other direction on the final drive. I went from a 3.9 to a 4.1. If I was going to stay NA I'd go to a 4.3 after riding in a few similarly equipped cars.
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Hmm well that seems to be a pretty overwhelming consensus...I was thinking the 3.6 would make the gears more useable and help with my long highway trips to the track. The speed limit out here is 80 and I don't know if I stand going much slower than that. I'm around 4k rpm at that speed. Honestly it's not that bad, and you guys are confirming my why I was planning on keeping the 3.9 in case I didn't like the taller gears...sounds like I wouldn't.
Not entirely sure why, but I never really considerding going shorter than the 3.9. Time to do some research... |
Would just have to determine what's more important to you. Yes, the 3.63 will be better on the highway to and from the track, but will significantly negatively affect the car's performance on track.
Considering how far you're driving to the track, I'd say just keep the 3.9. You can go shorter but those are long hours at high RPM. |
The path you’re going down KB eventually leads to a tow rig and a small open trailer.
Might as well stop fighting inevitability and bite the bullet now. Then you can swap to a 4.1 or 4.3 rear end and have more fun on track. If budget for a tow rig is tight...I’d recommending looking into a Kia Borrego. Little known body on frame SUV with a V8 and 7k pound tow rating. Higher mileage ones are dirt cheap. If no budget for a trailer you can rent u-haul trailers in the interim. Things to consider... |
Thanks for the Borrego tip!
I have a 4.3 rear assembly with an OSGiken diff in it for sale, if you are indeed sticking to NA. The gearing and diff would make a huge difference on track. |
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1559593)
I’ve run race-valved (I believe by Whitener) bilsteins on DIY coilovers on my NB1 race car and was very happy with how they performed.
Not quite as good as XIDAs or other proper race dampers, but really very good for the money.
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1559593)
Car looks nice, the bump in power with the new engine build should be nice.
Quick question: why the 3.6 rear end? Are you planning for big power/forced induction longer term? If you’re planning on staying N/A around ~150whp, I’d highly recommend a 4.3 rear with the six speed. That sh*t is rowdy. Not great for a highway cruiser but is awesome on track.... The problem is I keep changing my mind on what to do with the car. First bought a Kraken kit and was gonna turbo it. Got the MS3 and played with the tuning. Bought and installed some FlowForce 640s and retuned. Sold the Kraken kit with the plan then being a Rotrex for smooth power delivery and reliability on track. Then a few months back I saw the "Purest Miata" youtube video from Quinn and nearly orgasmed when I heard to sound of that NA motor scream to 8k. The plan then evolved into what it is now...a semi built motor that is capable of supporting 250-300hp if I ever go back to the turbo or supercharger option in the future, but if nothing else, it will be a solid motor for the next few years and HPDE seasons with a raised redline of 7600. Possibly cams and other headwork in the future. One thing is for sure is I'm going to take the car on track! |
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1559670)
The path you’re going down KB eventually leads to a tow rig and a small open trailer.
Might as well stop fighting inevitability and bite the bullet now. Then you can swap to a 4.1 or 4.3 rear end and have more fun on track. If budget for a tow rig is tight...I’d recommending looking into a Kia Borrego. Little known body on frame SUV with a V8 and 7k pound tow rating. Higher mileage ones are dirt cheap. If no budget for a trailer you can rent u-haul trailers in the interim. Things to consider... |
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1559601)
How are your control arm bushings looking after 200k miles?
Originally Posted by Chilicharger665
(Post 1559673)
Thanks for the Borrego tip!
I have a 4.3 rear assembly with an OSGiken diff in it for sale, if you are indeed sticking to NA. The gearing and diff would make a huge difference on track. |
4000 is definitely on the low end for towing a Miata, but with a light trailer and minimal other bits you'd be within the rating. Gonna be sllloooowwww but you'll get by.
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Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1559643)
You can go shorter but those are long hours at high RPM.
Originally Posted by turbofan
(Post 1559706)
4000 is definitely on the low end for towing a Miata, but with a light trailer and minimal other bits you'd be within the rating. Gonna be sllloooowwww but you'll get by.
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There's a reason I didn't quantify my statement :)
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Cleaned up pistons
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b7b9ba9968.jpg Is this marking anything to be concerned about? https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9f18491adb.jpg |
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Decided to go with new OEM Mazda 9:1 pistons instead of the 10:1 I pulled out of the used motor. Boost is almost certainly in this cars' future. I'm sure many of you will question why I didn't go forged but with all current and future plans considered I felt this was the best option for me.
Three of the pistions weighed in at 286g and one at 287g, with all wrist pins weighing 79g. Mazda be doing the balancing for me! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...666f27140.jpeg Still waiting on my block to come back from getting honed and surfaced at the machine shop but I got the head back and installed/shimmed the camshafts using the Volvo springs. Intake was all in-spec and exhaust was all out of spec except for one. Used some shims out of my original head and was able to get all exhaust in-spec except for one which is only .03mm tight. I plan on rechecking the clearances within 5k miles of the rebuild so I'm not too worried about that one being slightly out. In the process of replacing all the bushings in the front control arms I decided to replace the ball joints with Bauer ELBJ's and got some R-package tie rod ends from Mazda. Neither felt outrageously sloppy but the replacements were significantly stiffer so I'm pretty excited to see how much tighter the car feels. As far as I know they were still original parts. I'm probably going to repack my front hubs with Amsoil Dominator too. |
Updates:
Decided to use the Supermiata clutch and PP instead of stock Exedy. Got all suspension components installed, ready to be dropped on the ground once I put the wheels on. The front hubs were visibly toed-in pretty badily with the new tie rod ends so I visually straightended them out, hopefully good enough until I can get to an alignment shop. I zoned out while chasing the engine block accessory bolt holes and accidentally tapped the 1/8 BSP oil feed/sensor port with and M10x1.25. Major oof :facepalm:. I tried to correct it by tapping with NPT...don't think it made it much worse but didn't fix it. When I try to tighten the VVT banjo bolt it backs out before getting tight enough. Without the crush washers there are more threads to engage so my current plan is to use Seal + Lock thread compound and gasket maker instead of the crush washers. I was able to tighten it sufficiently but I'm paranoid about it bursting with oil pressure so I'm going to be watching that like a hawk on startup. Cleaned up the donor 6-speed and installed new gaskets and throwout bearing. Still need to figure out what the gear sensor is it came with, kind of doubt its for a 3.9 ratio. It's from a 2001. The gear sensor was the one thing I failed to disconnect when pulling the engine so I'm planning on trying to swap the actual gears from my 3.9 unit to the good one that came with the donor. Got my rebuilt and revalved shocks back from Whitener Racing. He recommended 700/500 rates with no rear bar but I opted for 700/400 and am going to run either the stock rear bar or my 14mm 5x racing. Here is a mostly complete mockup including extended top hats and QA1 torrington bearings... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6463a3a8cf.jpg |
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Hold on, what? You've got a vvt banjo bolt that won't tighten down because the threads are damaged and you're hoping sealant will hold it together? Did I read that right?
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Yeah. Don't, you need to fix that properly, and it is much easier to address it now that the engine is out.
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OK I reread it... if all you have in terms of decent threads is the equivalent of the thickness of two crush washers, it ain't gon work.
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I'm not really sure how many threads are truly engaging. I can't pull it once I start threading it in but it's fairly wobbly until it gets towards the end. I also modified the banjo bolt by chasing it's threads with the same M10x1.25. But yes this is all sort of a band-aid and I would prefer to fix it properly.
What do you guys suggest? Helicoil? I've never used one of those. I don't think simply chasing with an 1/8 BSP tap will work. And going the next size up would require a reducer which would then interfere with how the VVT line feeds into the block. There are lots of options if I make a custom AN line with banjo fittings but I'm just not sure what the best way to go about is. |
Checked the tightness after the sealant cured and it still slipped out before torquing down enough. Thanks for making me deal with it before I put the engine back in.
I'm going to give this a try... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0b375f3576.png |
I'm not an expert on how to fix that type of mistake but that looks like a good way to go about it.
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Not entirely sure how helicoils will cope with sealing oil pressure, but worth a try. The other alternative that comes to my mind would be re-threading both the block and the VVT actuator, throw away the hardline and run an AN line directly from the engine side to the VVT oil control valve.
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Well I got the helicoil in and the banjo bolt torqued with the crush washers without it backing out or feeling loose. Fingers crossed it holds up to the full oil pressure.
Pulled the dash to redo the crappy wiring job I did on the wideband and install an oil temp gauge as well as wrapping it in black microsuede aka "flocking" https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ca2df35dc2.jpg Dropped the engine and tranny in as a unit by myself last night, installed the slave cylinder and bled the clutch, and installed the MiataRoadster kit and felt everything out. Feels pretty damn good so far, probably even better once I get it on the road and let the Ford special sauce work its magic on the tranny thats been sitting dry for years. I was worried how the angled/raised shifter would be but my initial impression is that I like it a lot. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5ed00304a5.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48e8216653.jpg Just updated my tune to account for the new trigger wheel, VVT etc. and buttoning things up on the car. First startup on the rebuild should be within a week!! |
Mostly successful first start up and break-in!
Cranked the engine over without plugs and with the fuel relay pulled until I saw oil pressure on the dash, then hooked everything back up and she started right up. Small coolant leak from the heater hose and the bleed nipple on the reroute housing but I got those tightened and then set the timing while it was warming up. Spent about 25 minutes driving around revving to 6k and engine braking, everything feels and sounds real good!
The VVT port I helicoiled is holding up well but unfortunately there is a slow leak from the front right of the engine, I believe it's coming from the oil pump housing as the crank is dry but haven't had a chance to take a closer look yet. I wanted to feel the car with the new poly bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends before throwing on my rebuilt Whitener Bilstein's so I was already planning on putting her back on stands to change those out, so I'll be able to inspect everything then. I just traded that 3.6 diff I was going to use for a header and $300 so I'll be installing that at the same time as the shocks. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...19c2e4198b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...77c2e88fe9.jpg Last thing I did was install this bikini top from GJR racing. I think it was only $100 on a black friday deal. Highly recommend! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b45a9deaa.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...51075f7323.jpg |
The front end of your car looks great. Did you do the headlight conversion yourself?
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Originally Posted by viperormiata
(Post 1565210)
The front end of your car looks great. Did you do the headlight conversion yourself?
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Started the car up on stands and waited for the leak to show itself. I was actively watching the crank when oil appeared beneath it and starting flowing out.
Assumed it was the main crank seal but was still confused how the oil wasn't getting flung around on the crank. Then I took things apart and removed the crank pulley and timing gear. It then became apparent where the oil was coming from: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...02c67e2000.jpg It's coming from the area between the pan and the bottom of the oil pump housing! Best case scenario maybe? I tightened one of the oil pan bolts and am slathering this bitch up with some silicone and gonna see what happens: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...740dd1ea36.jpg |
Oh I also drained the oil and checked the magnetic plug...no shiny bits but there was a small amount of dark metal filings that like look iron filament. I assume this is from the piston rings seating?
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Success
Got the engine running again, no leaks!! It's so cool seeing how precise the timing is when using the timing light because of the 36 tooth wheel. It's completely stationary when using the timing light instead of wiggling around when I had the stock 4 tooth wheel. One thing I need to figure out still is the VVT...it's not working. Not sure if it's the unit, my wiring, or my ECU settings yet. Oh I installed the new headers too after wrapping them.
Got the coilovers installed and I need to lower my ride height a good bit but the one drive I did with them was promising. The car feels alive now and I have better control. The koni setup I was running was smooth but there was very little movement. I'll report back once I've put some miles on them. Last thing I did over the weekend was installing this duckbill spoiler from Galvez Customs. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...543b02dc04.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d06b2ba7ed.jpg |
Adjusted my bushings and top hats as they were clanging around a bit. The rears showed evidence of spring rubbing against the coilover sleeve. Much much better now, really excited about the potential this suspension setup has. Can't wait to get on track with these, I can feel the road and what the car is doing so much better now. Very confidence inspiring. Also got the hardtop back on and changed the mounting of the spoiler...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a31bde355f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a60a07f269.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c3379fd4a6.jpg |
Got the VVT solenoid wiring figured out and took a drive without any errors showing up, but the car didn't feel much different. That's because it still wasn't working. I had 'range check measured values' turned off, turning it on caused a VVT1 error. I then properly calibrated the min and max angles and turned error checking back on without it coming on and could feel the difference right away.
I played with the VVT intake table some more today and felt even more of a difference, especially once I calibrated the settings further by setting my min duty cycle. That seemed to help just as much as setting the angles, it has significantly more zoom zoom in it. I've put about 250 miles on the motor so far and 200 since fixing the oil leak; it's been a pain getting here at times, but I'm finally starting to appreciate it :party: |
New mirrors installed and gave her a wash for the first time in over 6 months
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...328c83fca5.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0da77d3a6d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e69a99bd23.jpg |
car looks great.
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I swapped out my 7" 700/400 springs for 6" 750/450 with zero rate helper springs. Wasn't able to get as low as I wanted with the 7" springs unless I bottomed out the sleeve nut to the point where not all the threads were engaged. The new spring setup feels noticeably smoother/composed. I also just got my set of SadFab poly bushing sleeves, not sure when I'm going to install those but I am very pleased with how the car is handling.
I think I'm going to switch back to the nb2 header instead of the header I recently put on. I don't like that it rubs against the chassis (and probably the transmission at times) and the reliability, fitment, and heat shielding of the stock nb2 header will make me feel better than the few horsepower the new header might give me. My VVT is now working intermittently. It started happening after an oil change to Amsoil and a K&N gold filter. I can see in tunerstudio (and feel in the engine response) that the VVT angle is stuck at 0 even though the target is not. Then it just starts working out of nowhere. It doesn't seem like its related to anything, I've tested a bunch of potential associations over the past few days and it seems totally random. It doesn't seem related to oil pressure because when its working, it works whether im at 30 psi around idle or 60 psi at WOT. The car feels great when its active and much more "meh" without it, so it's definitely bothering me. The troubleshooting shall continue... |
Got the VVT working again and no issues with it in the last couple hundred miles of driving. Car feels great. I did put the nb2 header back on too.
Went autocrossing for the first time in a couple years this past weekend. It's great seeing all the different cars and getting to talk to people, but man, I can't help but thinking how stupid it really is. There is absolutely no comparison to track driving. I was running just under 40 seconds on the course setup but it felt like 20 seconds, and also looked like it only took 20 seconds when watching my dashcam videos. The only thought I had in my mind after watching my videos was "wow, this is fucking stupid". I really need to get back on track with my new setup but I am between jobs and money is really tight for me right now, can't justify the expense until I get my shit together. |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d59506bf9b.jpg
Went to my first track day of the year and since the rebuild this past weekend. Oregon Raceway Park. What a fun track!! Drove 6 hours there Friday night, tracked all day on Saturday and drove 6 hours back that night. Other than a weird issue that I thought was fuel starvation when trying to downshift and rev-match, the car performed flawlessly. During hard braking and trying to blip the throttle, I would get no throttle response...which caused me to keep the clutch in and try it again with the same result and eventually the car dying. It caused me to go 4 wheels off during the first session. I had a bit under a half tank, filled up to a full tank and it seemed better, but still died on me once or twice. I resorted to not rev-matching and just downshifting, which worked, but definitely not a solution. My only thought at this point is there is too much slack in the throttle cable (which I've been loosening to try and combat the shitty Skunk2 throttle body high-idle, even though I have a new spring hole drilled) and maybe the cable is binding up when I'm blipping it and its still retracting from being at WOT. I'm going to try tightening it back up and see if that helps. I still don't understand why the car was dying with the clutch left in though, so maybe there is some sort of fuel issue. Maybe time I swap out the fuel pump for the DW200 I've had sitting around. The best lap I managed at ORP was a 2:10, I can definitely push it harder but had a blast and didn't break anything, so that's a success in my book. Its no excuse but having to drive 6 hours home does stick in the back of my mind and keep me from "sending it". |
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