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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1415532)
Yes, the turbo housing not being ported is why you get creep and hit boost with the waste gate wired open.
I would probably max out the turbo you have now, then upgrade later. I mostly say this to save you $200 right now. You're right, that's what I'll be doing first. The current turbo has maybe 300 miles on it, if that. So it should have plenty of life left in it if I don't push it too hard. Reading Sonofthehill's thread, I can see that these little turbos can take a beating though. I'm not too far from him either, maybe I can get some tips on the porting that he did on his. |
I am happy to share my porting experiences with you.
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I bought a few more shiny bits for my build. These will add more bling to my car :cool:
On the table I have:
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I decided to paint the block black before putting it all together. First I sprayed a few coats of Rust-Oleum engine primer and I let it dry overnight. The next day I finished it off with another few coats of Dupli-Color semi-gloss black engine enamel. I think it turned out pretty good.
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It had been a while since I had actually driven the car so I decided to take it out for a drive even though it's smoking out the exhaust.
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Not too long ago I purchased a 3.63 R&P to put into my spare torsen LSD. This probably won't be going in until later this year or early next year. We shall see.
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I also bought a pair of discontinued PIAA 960 lamps to retrofit into my RS Active type 2 headlights. This should be a fun project.
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1420911)
Did you paint the oil filter sealing surface and around the stud?
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Originally Posted by konmo
(Post 1420960)
yeah I got some paint on the oil filter sealing surface and around the stud. I was planning on just removing the paint on the sealing area, but didn't think about the paint around the stud. I did tape off the small port in there so it not entirely covered in paint. You think it'll come off with the oil once it's ran?
I would not want any paint in that area. Best bet is to remove any paint on the seal surface and inside surrounding the port. |
Originally Posted by M.Adamovits
(Post 1421309)
I would not want any paint in that area. Best bet is to remove any paint on the seal surface and inside surrounding the port.
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Next I started working on putting the head on the block. I purchased ARP head studs to use on the engine. I chased the threads on the block using an old head bolt even though they looked clean. Then screwed in the head studs hand tight and used the supplied ARP lube to torque them down to 65 ft-lbs in three steps. I also ditched the supplied ARP washers and used the stock washers instead since they have a slightly bigger outer diameter.
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I was not planning on getting a better turbo until I wore out or broke the MK turbo kit I bought, but I ended up getting a Borg Warner EFR 6758 Aluminum Supercore from @psyber_0ptix so this means I'll be soon running a EFR setup. I already purchased a turbo manifold and downpipe for it as well as the exhaust turbine housing.
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I removed the water nipple at the back of the head since I was no longer going to be using the stock oil warmer and I also wasn't going to use the stock throttle body. No coolant lines are needed on that side for my setup. I purchased a 1/2" NPT tap that already came with the 23/32" drill bit that is needed from amazon and also purchased a brass plug. (Thanks to @aidandj, got the info off one of his threads)
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Next was installing the coolant reroute. I purchased a Begi reroute spacer and the Kia water next. I am using a Stant superstat 180* thermostat with this.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4289/3...44cf3e35_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4272/3...dabe6bb6_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4289/3...af14a3fd_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4231/3...af5e5251_b.jpg I purchased a front water neck block off plug/plate from TrackSpeed Engineering to clean up the front of the engine. https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4267/3...5f8d2497_b.jpg |
I am pretty sure that 100% of my customers who have decided to build a motor and upgrade their turbo setup's have ended up with TSE. I have zero issues with that and I think it is the perfect upgrade path. I would love to see you max out my setup though.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1421346)
I am pretty sure that 100% of my customers who have decided to build a motor and upgrade their turbo setup's have ended up with TSE. I have zero issues with that and I think it is the perfect upgrade path. I would love to see you max out my setup though.
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Originally Posted by konmo
(Post 1421350)
Lars, I got you, no worries! I am not going to run the EFR setup until I have the engine on a good tune, I also have not figured out what I am going to do about the exhaust. I'll probably have someone fit your mkturbo exhaust with the TSE downpipe if that can be done easily. Until then I will be running the MK turbo kit and most likely will be hitting the dyno with it as well.
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The TSE manifold and downpipe arrived yesterday. Still waiting on the exhaust turbine housing and a few more bits to arrive.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1421351)
Exhaust should fit up reasonably easy. I would cut off the standard flange off the bottom of the TSE down pipe and add a v-band flange there. Then chop off the end of the mid-pipe and mate it up with the new down pipe.
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Downpipe is stainless? I honestly can't think of any local exhaust shops that actually know what a TIG welder is, let alone trust them to get a v-band flange on straight. :sad2:
If the midpipe is mild and you don't mind keeping that flat 2 bolt flange, that opens up some options. The last mind steel exhaust I had welded up locally was for my 73 F250 by Howard (iirc?) over at All American on Abbot. He's oldschool guy, drives a super nice 66 Mustang GT350 (probably clone, but still well done) when the weather is nice. I know he can at least get a flange on to a piece of mild, and he's not the type of guy who is going to text his buddies when a Miata with a turbo hanging off of it gets dropped of for exhaust work. Just make sure you tell him exactly what you want and he'll get it done. He does decent work, but unfortunately he's not exactly cheap. If its stainless, I can shoot out a couple emails and see who people recommend for such things. I haven't had a local go-to since the shop where I used to work closed up. Hope some of that blathering helps! |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1421579)
Downpipe is stainless? I honestly can't think of any local exhaust shops that actually know what a TIG welder is, let alone trust them to get a v-band flange on straight. :sad2:
If the midpipe is mild and you don't mind keeping that flat 2 bolt flange, that opens up some options. The last mind steel exhaust I had welded up locally was for my 73 F250 by Howard (iirc?) over at All American on Abbot. He's oldschool guy, drives a super nice 66 Mustang GT350 (probably clone, but still well done) when the weather is nice. I know he can at least get a flange on to a piece of mild, and he's not the type of guy who is going to text his buddies when a Miata with a turbo hanging off of it gets dropped of for exhaust work. Just make sure you tell him exactly what you want and he'll get it done. He does decent work, but unfortunately he's not exactly cheap. If its stainless, I can shoot out a couple emails and see who people recommend for such things. I haven't had a local go-to since the shop where I used to work closed up. Hope some of that blathering helps! |
Made some more progress on my engine. I removed the paint that I got on the block around the oil filter area. I also installed the front accessories which included a Boundary Engineering oil pump, a new water pump, garage star water pump pulley, and a 949 Racing Supermiata damper. Still need to pull the VVT engine that is currently in the car since I need the valve cover and oil pan from it.
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I've been lagging on this build, but here's a few more things I've purchased to be installed onto this car:
ArtWorks Dewa vent rings climate control face plates/surround ring and K.G. Works pieces for the climate control knobs https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/...23db54e2_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/...dd56773c_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/...2d6a2c5a_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/...b6f916e3_b.jpg |
I traded my friend my old 1.6 engine for his 1/2" digital Snap On torque wrench. He's going to be running it on his 67 VW beetle.
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On July 15th I finally got the miata into the garage to start pulling the old turbo'ed VVT which is smoking on me.
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Within the next few days, I started pulling apart the older VVT motor to see why it had started to throw smoke on me. I was hoping it would just be a headgasket or maybe valve seals or piston rings. Turns it it was much worse than that.
Circlip holding the wrist pin for piston #4 somehow came out the groove and gashed up the cylinder 4 walls. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/...4485778e_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/...d6b61554_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/...f307d034_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4352/...04bba2c1_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/...9cbf37c5_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/...750e1ddd_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/...68c11648_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/...71d59a80_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/...b4322d39_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/...f68acb95_b.jpg Piston 2 and 3 seemed okay. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/...2f5c5351_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4410/...ab60f26d_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/...6dbec485_b.jpg Piston in cylinder #1 was broken in two spots. Looks like detonation occurred in that area. I could be wrong though. The cylinder wall seemed okay. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/...844ef84e_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/...ba4bd640_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4423/...322fabff_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/...2bee31e6_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4343/...d514f085_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/...c62440c4_b.jpg Excuse all the pictures, but I just wanted to show you guys the carnage. Does it look salvagable? The crank wasn't all scratched up so I think at least the part is good. Head also look good, I'll will have it checked later on and can post pictures. |
Next thing I did was swap out the long 1.8 oil pipe that the oil filter and "oil warmer" screw onto and replaced it with the 1.6 version since I was no longer going to be using the oil warmer sandwich plate. I used the double nut method to unscrew it out of the block, it came out pretty easy.
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Next I sealed the oil pan and installed the vvt line and the 1.6 oil pressure sensor.
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I should really get you a MKTurbo sticker to replace that FM one with.
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Originally Posted by konmo
(Post 1437100)
Next thing I did was swap out the long 1.8 oil pipe that the oil filter and "oil warmer" screw onto and replaced it with the 1.6 version since I was no longer going to be using the oil warmer sandwich plate. I used the double nut method to unscrew it out of the block, it came out pretty easy.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1437120)
I regret not doing this when I had the chance, seeing as I deleted all the other water lines. /sigh.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1437111)
I should really get you a MKTurbo sticker to replace that FM one with.
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Do you plan on running a mocal style oil cooler thermostat plate?
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Next up was installing the alternator and accessory belt. I am using a 100 Amp alternator from a 94 RX7. Removed the factory pulley and replaced it with the Garage Star Pulley.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/...c6330fc5_b.jpg I mocked up the TSE manifold and also installed the mixing manifold and heater core hard line. Thinking of wrapping the hard line with some DEI reflective gold tape to help with heat from the turbo manifold. Opinions? https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/...b70613f9_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/...cc157bf4_b.jpg |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1437125)
Do you plan on running a mocal style oil cooler thermostat plate?
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Early last week while I was still waiting for my parts to be painted, I mocked up the turbo (with zipties since inconel studs hadn't arrived at the yet)
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After a long 4 weeks, I finally got my parts from powder coating. They lagged and I wasn't to happy about it, but at least I have my parts back now. I got the Intake manifold, valve cover, turbo compressor housing, and VVT mechanism powder coated.
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This Sunday I worked on swapping the VVT hardline for a braided -4AN line instead. I cut the line on top of the valve cover and I drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. I did the same the metal line on the side on the block. I didn't have a 45 degree AN fitting for the side of the block, so the 90 will have to do for now.
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Yesterday I wrapped the heater return hard line with DEI Reflect-a-Gold tape to hopefully help a bit with heat radiating off the turbo manifold.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/...e5c08c82_b.jpg I also started replacing any orange fire sleeve with black DEI fire sleeve. My OCD wouldn't let me have the extra mix of colors in there. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4399/...31814b78_b.jpg I pulled my extra MSM 6 speed transmission out of the shed and degreased it in preparation for seal replacements. I didn't finish replacing the front seal, but did replace the rear seal. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/...746fcc2a_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/...bb968266_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/...f780fb99_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/...c25c1e0f_b.jpg I finally got the engine off the engine stand and installed the rear main seal using the handy Flyin' Miata RMS installer tool. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/...6ca0617e_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/...f8d117a5_b.jpg Last thing I got done was install the 1.6 Fidanza flywheel and a ACT HD clutch kit. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/...a4058eed_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4365/...2cb1c06c_b.jpg Now I am just waiting for some NPT to AN fittings to arrive so I can finish this up and put back into the car. Should be driving this soon if all goes well! |
WTF? Who is powdercoating your stuff locally? Everyone I talked to wanted a billion dollars to do something a simple as a valve cover.
I need to unsub this thread. You've done everything I wanted to do but didn't have time. Also, Mocal sandwich on the left: http://www.trackspeedengineering.com...roducts/19.JPG If you don't already have oil temp, I'd recommend finding a solution for that now, before you get too far. After the turbo install my temps skyrocketed on track and there are only a couple of oils (Amsoil Dominator 15w-50 for example) I'd trust at the temps I'm now running without a cooler. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1437794)
WTF? Who is powdercoating your stuff locally? Everyone I talked to wanted a billion dollars to do something a simple as a valve cover.
I need to unsub this thread. You've done everything I wanted to do but didn't have time. Also, Mocal sandwich on the left: If you don't already have oil temp, I'd recommend finding a solution for that now, before you get too far. After the turbo install my temps skyrocketed on track and there are only a couple of oils (Amsoil Dominator 15w-50 for example) I'd trust at the temps I'm now running without a cooler. I looked into the Mocal sandwich plate and at the moment, not sure that I will be needed one since this car will be primarily a street car. As far as oil temp, I do have a 1/8 NPT bung welded on the passenger side of the oil pan for a sensor, but not sure which one to use. I was trying to tie it into my Megasquirt PNP Pro ECU, but I'm a little confused about which sensors will play nicely with that ECU. Guess I have to do a bit more reading. I did read that I can use a GM temp sensor and that the calibrations in TunerStudio will already work fine for it, but I could only find that in 3/8" NPT. I might end up just running a standalone oil temp gauge and not integrating it into my MS ECU. What are you doing for your oil temp monitoring? |
I picked up these Bellof headlights a few weeks ago. Not sure whether I'll be installing these on this Miata or the 93LE.
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I installed the Transmission and the starter.
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Next up was finally putting the engine/transmission back into the car. I installed it back with both the motor mounts already attached to the block. It took me a little bit of moving the engine around and jacking up the transmission side to get it lined up into the motor mount holes on the sub frame.
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Once the engine was bolted up, I proceeded with connecting all the electrical connections and vacuum lines. Also got my Koyo radiator installed with the coolant reroute and last thing was plumb the inter cooler piping. I redid the hot side for better clearance around the sway bar and lower radiator hose.
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Here it sits waiting to be filled with oil/coolant so I can do the first start and break in the engine.
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This is the first idle. It started on the first crank with out any issues. Sorry about the potato cam video. Didn't realize my phone was recording at such a crappy resolution when I took this.
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This past weekend my buddy helped me get the TSE down pipe connected to my 3" exhaust from the MK turbo kit I was previously running on this car. We mounted the pipes, measured, cut the old flanges off and installed the new stainless steel v band flanges I bought. It turned out pretty good.
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Since I hadn't noticed any leaks after a few hundred miles, I decided to put the bumper back on. Also washed it for the first time in months.
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I've been having a problem where my Spal fans are stalling the car when it is idling. I have been able to tune it so there's a small dip in RPM when my lights are off, but if I have the lights on and the fans turn on the RPM will drop so low that it wants to stall. I want to say that half of the times this happens, the car does stall. I have messed with closed loop idle and got it to the point where everything idles fine. I can power on the lights and heater fan motor and the car does not stall and it reacts pretty quickly. From doing some research others have also had problems with large spal fans, it seems to be the high load that the fans put on the engine. I have tried swapping out to a 100 amp RX7 alternator, running a 30A spal relay to each fan, put in a new Marathon AGM battery purchased on Amazon, I even added a 1 farad capacitor to see if that would help ( it didn't seem to make a difference). I can even feel it while cruising on the freeway, there will be a slight sudden buck when the fans first turn on. Datalogs show that there is a 1.0 spike in the AFRs for a split second, but the battery voltage does not show that it's dropping neither do the pulse widths or anything like that. I can post logs and my tune later if that helps. Any ideas? I know my tune still needs some work, but I don't think it should be this bad when the fans turn on. Today I switched back to open loop idle so I can better tune my idle without IAC changes. Then I will switch back to closed loop and continue trying.
Fan information: SPAL Fans (30101522) 12” Medium Profile Puller Fan Curved Blade For use w/ 25Amp Fuse @ 13V Airflow (CFM) : 1328 Size : 13.19in x 12.56in x 2.44in Part# Description Length Depth Width CFM Current Draw 30101522 12" Medium Profile Fan - Curved Blade - Pull 13.19" 2.44" 12.56" 1328 13 Amps |
Post tune
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1442036)
Post tune
My setup is a 2003 VVT engine with 84mm 8.6:1 CR supertech pistons/manley rods. Supertech +1mm oversized intake/exhaust valves, Supertech double light valve springs, MMD SUB lifters, BE oil pump, ID1000 injectors, stock VVT coils, Fidanza 7 pound light weight flywheel, koyo 37mm radiator, two12"spal fans, (but only one is currently connected), coolant reroute using begi spacer. |
Turn on idle RPM timing correction. Increase the fan idle up delay, and idle up duty.
See if that helps. |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1442055)
Turn on idle RPM timing correction. Increase the fan idle up delay, and idle up duty.
See if that helps. Increased fan idle up delay from 500ms to 1000ms (that's the max it lets me raise the delay) Increased idle up duty from 3.1% to 6.3% Will try this out after work and take a data log, can post results soon after. I've already tried similar settings though and it didn't help much. I will try this though and report back. |
Fan no longer stalls the car when my headlights turn on. I ended up having to add more fuel around the regions where I would idle while the fans turned on and that looks to be what helped the most. It's not perfect, but at least it doesn't stall the car anymore.
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I was able to make it to Miatas at MRLS this year and the car was running pretty good. I didn't take it on the track, but still had a blast. Before the day of the event, I worked on ducting the radiator/intercooler and adding some Singular Motorsports hood louvers. It took a lot longer than I expected to make the ducting. I used PVC sheets from home depot to make the ducting. So far I ducted the bottom and sides, but will also be adding some ducting from the top of the intercooler to the top of the radiator.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/...9769f80f_b.jpg 20171001_165637 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...240bcbfa_b.jpg 20171001_165645 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...a06faf90_b.jpg 20171001_165706 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...1b8e257a_b.jpg 20171001_165711 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...bf524ee2_b.jpg 20171001_181738 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...a8ee9603_b.jpg 20171001_181754 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...9e702201_b.jpg 20171001_182433 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/...7e7a0b3d_b.jpg 20171001_183112 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/...918174cb_b.jpg 20171001_183129 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...bb92c2c1_b.jpg 20171005_192057 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/...49d5206a_b.jpg 20171005_214340 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/...a14a67cb_b.jpg 20171007_172625 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...8f8f5745_b.jpg 20171007_172631 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr |
I noticed that I was getting oil in my intake charge pipes. It was coming from the compressor side of the EFR 6758. I had read about this issue which other people had also experienced. What I did was step up the drain line from -8 AN to -10 AN. I made the line a few inches shorter to avoid any kinks/sharp bends. I also used a treadstone -10AN fitting instead of the -8AN that screwed into the drain hole on the CHRA. This seemed to have fixed my issue. I was getting oil all over the intercooler pipes and surrounding areas since it would jizz out the Forge BOV. So far things look clean.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...ce401b51_b.jpg 20171014_123444 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...41afe8b2_b.jpg 20171014_123500 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...723185a9_b.jpg 20171014_132814 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...82038535_b.jpg 20171014_135739 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...c41f9e5f_b.jpg 20171014_140427 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...85e5f015_b.jpg 20171014_142444 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/...9d63e572_b.jpg 20171014_142536 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...502332d0_b.jpg 20171014_142541 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr A Few more pictures of the ducting https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...20066e0a_b.jpg 20171014_185341 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...c1be041c_b.jpg 20171014_185336 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/...3a515510_b.jpg 20171014_184421 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...1ba04cfd_b.jpg 20171014_184413 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr |
Last week on Monday, I drove it 9 hours from Salinas, CA to Yuma, AZ. It drove very well, however the coolant temps did rise a bit higher than I'd like them to when I was driving up the Grapevine. The ambient temperature outside was about 90-95 F and while driving up the mountains, I saw coolant temps go up to 227 F. I didn't worry too much because I needed to stop for gas, and let it cool down for a little bit. Besides that the car was mechanically fine. However, about 15 miles away from my destination I ran over a damn pallet. It was already dark and they were doing construction on the road. I had no space to swerve around it.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...2c72eb5d_b.jpg 20171016_210708 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...8d1ee242_b.jpg 20171016_210649 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr I was able to get a replacement overnighted from Good-Win Racing in San Diego. They were awesome and got to me quickly for no extra charge. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...868288ea_b.jpg 20171018_184852 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr On my way back, ambient temperatures were a lot cooler and coolant temps never went above 215 while driving. Also I drove under a rainbow while I was on Interstate 5. Snapped a pretty cool picture. https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...57e3b256_b.jpg 20171020_102740 by davidruiz1023 Ruiz, on Flickr |
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