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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1421351)
Exhaust should fit up reasonably easy. I would cut off the standard flange off the bottom of the TSE down pipe and add a v-band flange there. Then chop off the end of the mid-pipe and mate it up with the new down pipe.
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Downpipe is stainless? I honestly can't think of any local exhaust shops that actually know what a TIG welder is, let alone trust them to get a v-band flange on straight. :sad2:
If the midpipe is mild and you don't mind keeping that flat 2 bolt flange, that opens up some options. The last mind steel exhaust I had welded up locally was for my 73 F250 by Howard (iirc?) over at All American on Abbot. He's oldschool guy, drives a super nice 66 Mustang GT350 (probably clone, but still well done) when the weather is nice. I know he can at least get a flange on to a piece of mild, and he's not the type of guy who is going to text his buddies when a Miata with a turbo hanging off of it gets dropped of for exhaust work. Just make sure you tell him exactly what you want and he'll get it done. He does decent work, but unfortunately he's not exactly cheap. If its stainless, I can shoot out a couple emails and see who people recommend for such things. I haven't had a local go-to since the shop where I used to work closed up. Hope some of that blathering helps! |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1421579)
Downpipe is stainless? I honestly can't think of any local exhaust shops that actually know what a TIG welder is, let alone trust them to get a v-band flange on straight. :sad2:
If the midpipe is mild and you don't mind keeping that flat 2 bolt flange, that opens up some options. The last mind steel exhaust I had welded up locally was for my 73 F250 by Howard (iirc?) over at All American on Abbot. He's oldschool guy, drives a super nice 66 Mustang GT350 (probably clone, but still well done) when the weather is nice. I know he can at least get a flange on to a piece of mild, and he's not the type of guy who is going to text his buddies when a Miata with a turbo hanging off of it gets dropped of for exhaust work. Just make sure you tell him exactly what you want and he'll get it done. He does decent work, but unfortunately he's not exactly cheap. If its stainless, I can shoot out a couple emails and see who people recommend for such things. I haven't had a local go-to since the shop where I used to work closed up. Hope some of that blathering helps! |
Made some more progress on my engine. I removed the paint that I got on the block around the oil filter area. I also installed the front accessories which included a Boundary Engineering oil pump, a new water pump, garage star water pump pulley, and a 949 Racing Supermiata damper. Still need to pull the VVT engine that is currently in the car since I need the valve cover and oil pan from it.
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I've been lagging on this build, but here's a few more things I've purchased to be installed onto this car:
ArtWorks Dewa vent rings climate control face plates/surround ring and K.G. Works pieces for the climate control knobs https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4429/...23db54e2_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/...dd56773c_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/...2d6a2c5a_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/...b6f916e3_b.jpg |
I traded my friend my old 1.6 engine for his 1/2" digital Snap On torque wrench. He's going to be running it on his 67 VW beetle.
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On July 15th I finally got the miata into the garage to start pulling the old turbo'ed VVT which is smoking on me.
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Next thing I did was swap out the long 1.8 oil pipe that the oil filter and "oil warmer" screw onto and replaced it with the 1.6 version since I was no longer going to be using the oil warmer sandwich plate. I used the double nut method to unscrew it out of the block, it came out pretty easy.
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Next I sealed the oil pan and installed the vvt line and the 1.6 oil pressure sensor.
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I should really get you a MKTurbo sticker to replace that FM one with.
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Originally Posted by konmo
(Post 1437100)
Next thing I did was swap out the long 1.8 oil pipe that the oil filter and "oil warmer" screw onto and replaced it with the 1.6 version since I was no longer going to be using the oil warmer sandwich plate. I used the double nut method to unscrew it out of the block, it came out pretty easy.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1437120)
I regret not doing this when I had the chance, seeing as I deleted all the other water lines. /sigh.
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Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1437111)
I should really get you a MKTurbo sticker to replace that FM one with.
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Do you plan on running a mocal style oil cooler thermostat plate?
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Next up was installing the alternator and accessory belt. I am using a 100 Amp alternator from a 94 RX7. Removed the factory pulley and replaced it with the Garage Star Pulley.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/...c6330fc5_b.jpg I mocked up the TSE manifold and also installed the mixing manifold and heater core hard line. Thinking of wrapping the hard line with some DEI reflective gold tape to help with heat from the turbo manifold. Opinions? https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/...b70613f9_b.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/...cc157bf4_b.jpg |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1437125)
Do you plan on running a mocal style oil cooler thermostat plate?
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Early last week while I was still waiting for my parts to be painted, I mocked up the turbo (with zipties since inconel studs hadn't arrived at the yet)
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After a long 4 weeks, I finally got my parts from powder coating. They lagged and I wasn't to happy about it, but at least I have my parts back now. I got the Intake manifold, valve cover, turbo compressor housing, and VVT mechanism powder coated.
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This Sunday I worked on swapping the VVT hardline for a braided -4AN line instead. I cut the line on top of the valve cover and I drilled and tapped it for 1/8" NPT. I did the same the metal line on the side on the block. I didn't have a 45 degree AN fitting for the side of the block, so the 90 will have to do for now.
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