Laur3ns

I'm using that (copper based) and grease on all the flanges, so it's not a friction issue.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

lightly tighten the vband, hit the flange or the clamp with a hammer and tighten again.


Vbands without gaskets will always leak a little bit, but there shouldnt be very much if the flange was decked after welding and clamped while welding.

Laur3ns

Today, the Wilwood 11.75" kit came in. The one with the radial mount calipers and they are HUGE. There is so much more beef in these compared to the lug mount DLs, they should be awesome. I mainly went for the radials because they offer more clearance/wheel choice.

Also, I'm wrapping the oil/water lines and wastegate signal lines with one million degrees heat wrap. I'm using a Pierburg boost solenoid valve, used by many OEMs and Subaru/ProDrive, et al.

Thanks, will try.

Laur3ns

New hubs mounted in the rear, as well as the ASTs.

Also, new front LCAs came in. need to transfer the ES bushes from the current LCAs. Glad the new ones came with no bushings installed.

Laur3ns

Dyno time tomorrow!

ASTs are mounted, base ride height set. New front LCAs and tie rods.Initially the front shocks were very low and it looked like a CR.net car with 5+* degrees of static camber. My NB subframe has slight 'adjustments' for more camber.

Goals for tomorrow are:
- Leak down test
- Rewrite ECU map. Main maps: RPM vs Throttle% and secondary maps: RPM vs MAP. Currently the compensation map is based just on MAP.
- Retune fuel (probably lean compared to previous setup)
- Retune spark, aiming for 250rwhp
- Tune EBC for 0.8, 1.0 and 1.2bar boost (11.5, 14.5 and 17.5psi)
- Tune tip-in/out
- Tune idle

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

Awesomeness inbound. Looking great.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

Add tune hot start to the list. Cranking for minutes at a time gets old real fast every time you stall it

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

And hot post start enrichment. Having the car turn over and start great cold but require you to keep on the gas pedal a touch for the next 2 minutes after a hot start also sucks.

Scrappy Jack

iTrader: (2)

Wow, this build has picked up a lot of momentum lately. When is the start of your next season?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I think that's normal. Also, remember this bearing has a metal cage so it's going to supposedly make more noise. Maybe call Owens and see what they say. Take the flanges apart and check them for soot/leaks. The metal will burn away if you have a leak. The wastegate will be a huge bitch to get seated and you will need to use a deadblow. Connect the dump-tube and then the WG to the manifold. The Turbo should be pretty easy to line-up.

Laur3ns

Dyno results are in, and I'm happy.
at 0.8bar (11psi) I'm making what my GT2560R was doing at 1.1bar (16psi), which is 255rwhp.

This run is at 1.0bar (14.5psi) and I'm making 228lbft wheel torque and 277rwhp.

The 1.2-1.3bar maps show that I make more torque, but not much more hp, so I probably run into TB/intake limits there.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

nice looking curve, just as expected.

Laur3ns

Will post comparison to 2560 later.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

The attached picture looks SO SICK
The curve looks very good, 'grats.

Very interested in overlay of the 2 turbos

Laur3ns

I love that I have only 12-14% driveline loss. That is on a 4WD dyno, so F+R. That is: line bored crank, twin clutch, rebuild Quaife box, rebuild Torsen, rebuild axles, bearings and hubs.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

how did they measure drivetrain loss, did they pull the motor and then engine dyno it alone before/after the chassis dyno then do some basic math?

Laur3ns

Haven't found the best data files for GT2560R@1.1bar (16psi) vs GT2860RS@0.8bar (11.5psi), but:
- at 3000rpm the make the same boost and torque
- from >3100rpm the 28 takes off in terms of torque.

So, the 94BP w/2560 on a BEGI log spools slightly worse than a 99BP w/GT2860RS on AbsurdFlow... so you can have your cake and eat it too!

The funny part is that the 28 at 11psi is sleeping and only comes alive at 15psi+

Laur3ns

Here's 0.8bar/11.5psi, 1.0bar/14.5psi, 1.2bar/17.5psi and 1.3bar/19psi.
You can see at 1.2bar+ I'm making more torque, but not more hp. Must be the throttle body/intake.

Laur3ns

Neither. The first run is that they run the car up to redline (but not under power, just to get up to the rpm) and let it coast till idle. The dyno calculates loss (knowing it's own loss) and uses it in subsequent runs.

Produces this graph:

Laur3ns

Here is 1.0 vs 1.3: