Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i dont see the after plot...

oh it's on imgur... that's blocked at work.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

fixed it for the n00b. uploader hates him

also: why is both the weight and tire size different? or did you make changes to car? wanna keep those consistent to compare plots

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Hm, if the weight and tire size is showing up differently then my saved car on VD didn't take. Car is on NB 16's. I had the weight lower but that seems unrealistic. What's a reasonable weight for an nb1 with a turbo setup and a heavy as ***** big maggie mufflah? I think there's definitely 50-60lbs more of ish in the car right now.

The earlier plot is from last year.

Also, now I see two of the after plot lol.

I'm going to bump timing on some of the cruise cells to see what happens with the knock sensor. If I'm going to attempt to road tune spark, I need to see what noise looks like vs baseline knock.

And thanks Vlad. Setup is definitely fun. I'm still hoping to hit 330 or so and I think that might be pushing it here with the MAP sensor, but I might just go for it at some point just to see how it does.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you wont get knock in cruise; advance like crazy and pull fuel.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Well, I'm not trying to blow it up or damage it, but I just want to see what the knock sensor is doing. I definitely saw knock with my last setup and I think I was actually past MBT in a few cells because lowering timing raised power a bit. Just trying to inspire some confidence in the knock sensor to see if it's in any way sensitive.

Maybe messing with VICS a bit may help things along a bit too. I'll do the test.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

So trying to pick between the mapdaddy 4 bar with baro correction that would go right into the stock MS3X location or the GM style 3 or 4 bar sensor (4 probably) that would be installed to an open input.... Any preferences between which to go with and ease of install? Any recs for what I could use in the engine bay for pwr/gnd if using the GM style sensor? I think there are still some open inputs on MS I could run a wire to.

SpartanSV

GM sensor. Use the current MAP sensor for real time baro. I don't think you have the skill set for the other route and you're not giving anything up. Why put it in the bay instead of under dash with the megasquirt? You already ran the vacuum line.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

what a great idea

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Spartans idea is the easiest to implement

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Your car is probably 2500-2600 wet. Or more.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

doubt it
my msm which is literally the heaviest pig of them all, was 2500 wet on the scale at local track. (though I did have lighter wheels, so probably 2550 on the boat anchors)
Marcello's fully dressed nb2 se with hardtop+softtop was 2350

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Sorry. When I said wet I meant with driver.

Ian's car was 2450 with lighter seats.

Add 180lbs or whatever rush weighs. 2500-2600

18psi

iTrader: (76)

ahh ok that makes sense

codrus

My car is 2450 lbs with no driver. The only way to know is to actually weigh it.

--Ian

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

^
This

Mine weighs 2532 with me, my track tool box, a jug of water and a full tank of fuel. I figured 32 was the water and tools, maybe 150 or 160 for me leaves about 2350, maybe 2330 with 3/4 of a tank. The only things my car is missing are the soft top, and the ac condenser, dryer, compressor.

borka

iTrader: (1)

my car weights 2500lbs on a truck scale, nb2 with allofit, nothing taken out.

codrus

The 2450 on mine included the hardtop. The Recaros are lighter than stock seats, I'm missing the spare and have removed AC, but the turbo adds a bunch of weight, as does the trackspeed radiator (or, rather, the extra gallon or so of coolant in it), and the Optima D51R yellow-top battery.

--Ian

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Great! So it looks like my estimate is pretty reasonable.

I'm still looking for the proper GM MAP sensor since everything I'm finding looks pretty sketchy or doesn't look like it has the voltage curve on it. Not really trying to grab something random on ebay for this if I can avoid it. Also not trying to pay a hundo for the sensor on ballenger.

Anyone have a suggestion? I found 3 bar sensors but not 4 bar ones though the 3 would probably be okay for me ...should just get the 4 though since it's not like I'm losing all that much a little less resolution won't kill anything.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Are you really planning to run over 29psi? I just...don't....see...that ever happening. But if you are, then all the power to ya. I don't think your turbo/setup is even capable of it though

the aem 3.5 bar is popular on the Subaru's/evo's I tune

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

You're right. The 4 bar seems excessive. I honestly can't see myself going even above 25 right now lol. Only reason I want to swap is to have some headroom for overboost. With a sensor capable of 29, I'd likely stop at 27-27.5 (not that I'm planning on doing that).

My goal for my build was to hit 3x stock power. So once I get into the 330-350 range via virtual dyno, I'll likely book some dyno time to get a 'real' dyno. Once I have that in hand, I'll be happy turning the boost down and running it somewhere in the 270-300 range. That's plenty quick. While I have spent a fair amount of money on this ****, I'm still trying to be budget mindful. I'm not interested in blowing through 6 speeds and diffs and axles and and and... so there's little chance of my doing that. Also, I think past a certain point, the K-swap just makes more sense all around.

As for me, my considerations at this point are to maybe get some head work done over the winter depending on how much I end up spending on interview related expenses over the next few months. I might consider buying a different turbo to find something a bit more efficient. Might buy Shamrock's GTX2860 if he starts hunting for something a little bigger. That should be slightly more capable than the 2871R while improving spool.

I'm honestly pretty fortunate that I have a solid daily that I bought off a family member and I'm hoping to fix some rust on it and drive it through residency or till it dies. I'm not too worried about it since it's basically a honda with 120k on it. Just need to fix some rust on it. Point being that this has been a lot of fun and I 'paid to play' for the experience and the learning as and when I have time I'll likely tinker with some other stuff or improve what I have already and/or just help friends with whatever they're working on to keep learning.

TLDR; Vlad's right, likely never going over 29 (or even 25) with this setup. 3 bar should be fine. Rest of the post is musing.