Möbius build 2.0 : now with TrubroBoost (and severe lack of pictures...and progress) - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-24-2016, 01:46 PM   #1
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,894
Total Cats: 487
Default Möbius build 2.0 : now with TrubroBoost (and severe lack of pictures...and progress)

Edit: quoting Mobius to get his post to the top of the build thread. More details below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
Build 1.0 is listed here: Mobius build thread: brotrex and bromex galore. 01 LS, rotrex, xidas, 6uls, etc.

That vehicle was fun, reasonably fast, utterly predictable. Build 2.0 aims to be fun, reasonably faster, and utterly predictable.


What carries over to build 2.0 from build 1.0

engine
cnc head, +1 valves
manley rods
arp head studs
acl race bearings
stock pistons
transmission
TSE brakes, upgraded to v2.0 for no spacer goodness
hardtop
Marrad seat, Schroth enduro harness
Hard dog M2 Hardcore Hardtop w/harness bar
maybe the poly bushings
ABS components
CoT wing & mounts

Build 2.0 will be using the following chassis, conveniently cared for by Curly as his daily driver for a couple of years:



Also an '01 LS. So everything will be quite familiar.
Calling all peoples with a VVT engine and cast iron AC bracket on an engine stand!!

I need the dimension of the red line, oil pan to bottom of threaded boss. My drill is waiting...

Attached Thumbnails
-oildrainlocation_zpsp6pc3glb.jpg  

Last edited by curly; 05-16-2016 at 12:02 AM.
curly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 01:55 PM   #2
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sandia Park, NM
Posts: 367
Total Cats: 32
Default

Not sure if this will help a whole lot, but this is my input...

The npt bung hits dead middle on the oil line; DO NOT drill there with the pan on. The hole that is plugged definitely interfered with the ac compressor itself. Even if you got it low enough, getting a -10 line there will be difficult...

You can probably guestimate the distances in my photo. Really the spot I chose is freaking perfect with a 45* fitting. If the engine is on the stand I would without hesitation remove the pan to do the drilling.



Edit: found more pics; it looks like my fitting actually runs a little over the oil line, so the top of the oil feed is in the middle of my fitting. You can kind of see how I filed the fitting to curve around it.


Attached Thumbnails
-p3080716.jpg   -2015-01-04.jpg  

Last edited by leboeuf; 02-24-2016 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Savington clarified situation
leboeuf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 01:57 PM   #3
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
 
aidandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 16,863
Total Cats: 1,260
Default

You're welding a 1/2 npt bung on there right Josh?

I agree, I would go with leboeuf's location, as long as it doesn't interfere with anything else in the TSE setup.
aidandj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 01:59 PM   #4
Destroyer of Inconel
iTrader: (37)
 
EO2K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In ur driveway, abusin' ur WPA
Posts: 9,259
Total Cats: 868
Default

I'm guessing the pan is off and you don't have an AC bracket handy? My spare engine, pan and bracket are at Gesso's so I'm no help.



This is where I put mine, its straight vertical drop with my ARTech manifold. The TSE manifold setup puts the EFR CHRA and thus oil drain in almost the same position front to back so this image may actually be helpful. If you are putting the drain under the AC bracket I'm guessing it'll end up sloping toward the front of the car?

My bung is pretty much PERFECTLY in line the the PS fittings on the rack, so leboeufs location is probably better. I feel like I'd rather have it slope slightly to the rear than to the front.

Besides, Richard does not need AC, just tell him it does not fit and move on
Attached Thumbnails
-115967d1403125858-nothing-see-here-move-along-20140202_143118.jpg  
EO2K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 02:19 PM   #5
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Savington's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 13,902
Total Cats: 1,075
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by leboeuf View Post
Not sure if this will help a whole lot, and I think I posted this in savington's thread and he took it personal and had my post removed, but this is my input...

The npt bung hits dead middle on the oil line; DO NOT drill there with the pan on. The hole that is plugged definitely interfered with the ac compressor itself. Even if you got it low enough, getting a -10 line there will be difficult...

You can probably guestimate the distances in my photo. Really the spot I chose is freaking perfect with a 45* fitting. If the engine is on the stand I would without hesitation remove the pan to do the drilling.
Didn't take it personally, just didn't want it discussed in my product thread for fear that people would misinterpret that as my preferred location for our kits. Your location is great if you have the pan off, but you want to make sure that you have clearance for the oil line to drop through that area. On our kits, you definitely won't make it down there without contacting the lower coolant hose (hence my desire to not have people follow your instructions and end up pissed off when it doesn't work with the rest of our parts).
Savington is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 02:20 PM
aidandj
This message has been deleted by curly. Reason: thread clean up
Old 02-24-2016, 02:30 PM   #6
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,894
Total Cats: 487
Default

Yes, there's a newborn at the curly residence, the engine is on a stand in the garage with an incredibly well sealed oil pan, the manifold and turbo is at work with no stud kit yet (I think), and the car is at my friend's house, so I'm flying a little blind. The AC and PS lines are what concern me about any location than the red square in my original picture, which is what Savington suggested with his experience in a AC and PS NB2, which is what Richard's new car is.

I love to leave the pan on, since it's only my time to drill and tap. Removing requires professional cleaning, then I might as well weld a bung on, then I'd want new pan seals and pickup gasket, plus half a tube of orange RTV. So now we're talking about ~$200 for Richard.

Edit: mixing manifold will not be flipped.

Edit2: Savington, is this still the best location for engine out?
curly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 02:46 PM
EO2K
This message has been deleted by curly. Reason: thread clean up
Old 02-24-2016, 02:47 PM
aidandj
This message has been deleted by curly. Reason: thread clean up
Old 02-24-2016, 03:22 PM   #7
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sandia Park, NM
Posts: 367
Total Cats: 32
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
On our kits, you definitely won't make it down there without contacting the lower coolant hose
Got it, post edited.
I'm a little interested in the interference? It looks like your manifold puts the turbo a little more towards the rear of the car than mine and would make the motor mount area even more advantageous. You could *probably* aim a little higher and miss the oil feed line...

I did remove the old hard line section and replace it with a "bendy" hose. The oil drain fits neatly between the lower hose and the motor mount and avoids the a/c system all together.

Post a pic of how you got around the a/c compressor?

Edit: Congrats Curly!

Last edited by leboeuf; 02-24-2016 at 03:38 PM.
leboeuf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 03:30 PM   #8
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,894
Total Cats: 487
Default

Anybody else having issues comprehending leboeuf?
curly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 04:12 PM   #9
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sandia Park, NM
Posts: 367
Total Cats: 32
Default

Hahaha is it that bad? I'm just having a relevant conversation with myself and maybe Savington inside Mobius' thread.

Really, I'm trying to get Savington to post his technique to route the oil drain. Whatever he did is probably what you should do.

If you want to put your drain in the location I did you can probably get away with it, but you'll need to drill higher (like near the oil pan lip) in order to not hit the oil sump line inside the pan. Also I should mention that I'm not using the stock lower coolant hose and that my setup is on an NA.

I'll snap some more pictures of the drain tonight if you'd like?
leboeuf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 05:48 PM
curly
This message has been deleted by curly. Reason: thread clean up
Old 02-24-2016, 05:50 PM
aidandj
This message has been deleted by curly. Reason: Dumb
Old 02-25-2016, 12:51 AM
leboeuf
This message has been deleted by curly. Reason: thread clean up
Old 02-28-2016, 07:23 PM   #10
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,843
Total Cats: 228
Default Möbius build 2.0 : now with TruBroBoost

Build 1.0 is listed here: Mobius build thread: brotrex and bromex galore. 01 LS, rotrex, xidas, 6uls, etc.

That vehicle was fun, reasonably fast, utterly predictable. Build 2.0 aims to be fun, reasonably faster, and utterly predictable.


What carries over to build 2.0 from build 1.0

engine
cnc head, +1 valves
manley rods
arp head studs
acl race bearings
stock pistons
transmission
TSE brakes, upgraded to v2.0 for no spacer goodness
hardtop
Marrad seat, Schroth enduro harness
Hard dog M2 Hardcore Hardtop w/harness bar
maybe the poly bushings
ABS components
CoT wing & mounts

Build 2.0 will be using the following chassis, conveniently cared for by Curly as his daily driver for a couple of years:



Also an '01 LS. So everything will be quite familiar.
Attached Thumbnails
-120468d1407908513-help-me-buy-mod-miata-00o0o_bltwbg6fpkq_600x450.jpg  

Last edited by Mobius; 02-28-2016 at 11:52 PM.
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2016, 07:26 PM   #11
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,843
Total Cats: 228
Default

Plan for build 2.0

The plan is moar, and better, than before.

Things have magically happened in Curly's garage:






I sense at least one keg of beer for Curly's kegerator in my future.
Attached Thumbnails
-efr_6258.jpg   -manifold.jpg   -engine2.jpg   -engine1.jpg  

Last edited by Mobius; 02-28-2016 at 11:51 PM.
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2016, 07:27 PM   #12
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Mobius's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,843
Total Cats: 228
Default

Post 3 placeholder
Mobius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2016, 10:21 PM   #13
Hug Life
iTrader: (3)
 
Monk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Huntington, Indiana
Posts: 2,634
Total Cats: 440
Default

A+ thread. Would read again.




(I don't know what's going to happen here, but I'm excited.)
Monk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2016, 10:53 PM   #14
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Onyxyth's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Boyertown, PA
Posts: 667
Total Cats: 51
Default

10/10

I think there's like a 15? minute timeout on editing posts here. You miiiight have to make a new thread.
Onyxyth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2016, 11:06 PM   #15
Cpt. Slow
Thread Starter
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 11,894
Total Cats: 487
Default

He knows people that know people.
curly is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 12:34 AM   #16
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
nigelt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Carmel Valley, CA
Posts: 532
Total Cats: 57
Default

Inb4 anything happens
nigelt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 01:29 AM   #17
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
 
aidandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 16,863
Total Cats: 1,260
Default

Suspension bits for 2.0

Poly bronze conversion and rear sphericals. Also some delrin LCA bushings when we can get our hands on his V8r arms.



Attached Thumbnails
-7p1slsr.jpg   -ytyno70.jpg  
aidandj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 05:24 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
Posts: 948
Total Cats: 41
Default

In for goodness.

Was the harness you are transfering in use when the last car met it's end? I am curious if reusing a harness that has seen that loading is an ok thing? (I assume you know what you are doing, but now I am curious)
x_25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 06:27 PM   #19
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Granbury, TX
Posts: 5,887
Total Cats: 566
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by x_25 View Post
In for goodness.

Was the harness you are transfering in use when the last car met it's end? I am curious if reusing a harness that has seen that loading is an ok thing? (I assume you know what you are doing, but now I am curious)
It is not. Harnesses need to be replaced after an impact like that because of stretch.

Richard, is this going to be a double-duty car? If mainly for track/HPDE, I've been really happy having a cage in the car. The Harddog cage is nice, although it's not for W2W.
hornetball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-29-2016, 07:54 PM   #20
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 173
Total Cats: 9
Default

In for unpredictablity!
oregonmon is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:39 PM.