Machine shop pricing (Did I pay to much?)
 

So I took my bp6d head off the block and turned it in to a machine shop for inspection.

$80

Then I pulled the block out, drained the fluids and turned in the block with stock pistons, rods, oil pan ,and crank installed.

Disassembly - $375
Hot tank block - $95
Measure cylinder walls, mains, and check for cracks - $175.22
Shot peen block and inspect - $235
Clean crank, measure rod and main journals on crank shaft - $75

I just want to know if these prices sound correct, and if there is anything that I should skip on this list?
TLDR - Did I pay to much ?https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6d631ef925.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6e15bb2d9d.jpg

what was the condition of the engine before you took it apart?
what are you trying to achieve? 190hp td04 build doesn't need anything but a healthy stock motor.

I'm really looking to make 275 300 ish. Safest on all stock transmission back drive line. I was looking to make 190 ish in a built bottom end non turbo stage.

I had a cam seize in the journals (probably lack of oil), but the bottom end I'm pretty sure was operational. Had good compression before I had issues with the head. I just rebuilt the bottom end to stock around 500 miles ago. New rings, acl race rod bearings, fresh gasket and seal kit.

How about you take it apart yourself and then use the $1100 to go buy a good head? You have largely diagnosed the outcome of a disassembly already. This group is pretty much a DIY crowd. We will look at the pics of the carnage and pretty much diagnose it all from that and you get 1000+ years of experience for nothing if you play nicely in the sandbox.

Wasn't TSE's blocks around $3500 when he still offered them? And ~$2k in parts? So $1500 for machining and assembly. You've described $1000 in stuff but I can't tell what they're doing besides disassembly and inspection.

Sounds like $1000 worth of measuring and checking stuff. Way over board imo.

My engine block build consisted of me taking everything apart, bringing bare block to machine shop, having them hot tank it, hone and deck the block. $140 later, I assembled all my new bearings/rods/seals and all working great for 2+ years now

Gee.
I got all that done, plus cylinder sleeves, crank machining, line honing, etc. for under $200.

No way I would pay 1100 bucks for disassembly and inspection. Really.

Machine shop costs vary wildly by region. This is about as fruitless as comparing insurance costs.

I can have that list done locally for anywhere from $400 to $4000 depending on where i go.

I think a few items are in line across the nation somewhat (hot tank, inspect heads, POLISH, not just clean the crank). In my region, a full complete head and block inspection, a full measurement of every single component, removing the oil passage ball bearing, installing new NPT plugs in place in my crank, cleaning, disassembling, inspecting and cleaning the oil pump, measuring rings, etc etc. Full recondition and check of block was $400....

So yeah, cost varies dramatically depending on region. And this was one of the larger shops that do ALOT of spec Miata engines and Pro Stock stuff.

However OP, their breakdown cost you listed above..... Damn, I can break down my SR20VET in less than 1.25 hours :(

$375 is pretty high. I did it a lot, but I can take a BP from a dressed longblock to a bare block in about 60 minutes, including bagging+tagging all the hardware to reassemble it later on.

For $1k, dropping off a bare block and my own parts, my machine shop would hot-tank, bore/hone, micropolish, balance, measure clearances, set ring gaps, and put the rotating assembly inside the block. For another $600 they would do the entire head (disassemble hot-tank, 16 valve guides, valve job, reassemble, leak check, set lash).

This is probably the best advice anyone could give on this forum.

I paid $1200 for:

Disassembly.
Cleaning, hot-tanking, measuring all clearances
Polishing up the crank
Full assembly of the bottom end, including measuring bearing clearances, installing forged rods and fitting them to the wrist-pins, etc.
A full oem head rebuild with valve seats re-cut and new valve stem seals. Head was fully re-assembled when I got it back.

This was all from a reputable shop that builds a lot of race motors, lots of SM motors, and lots of other stuff too.

Are you using stock pistons?