FrankB

iTrader: (4)

thats correct. stock is blue, BEGi is brown

If you removed the stock studs to the head and ran bolts you would be able to slip it by the line might require some bending/adjustments though. It's not the TB placement it's more from the clearance to the frame rail. The spot welded lip by the fuel fittings on the frame have to be bent vertically to give clearance for the TPS.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

oh dear

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I'm happy with it. I'm not really too worried about the low end though. I'll never be that low on the track at least I can't think of a reason that I would be.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

Do you guys think it would be worth it to find a Dynojet to redo my max power run?

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Only if you want bragging rights. Honestly, past 300 these cars or really fast, and you're enough over that to not worry about it. Its' not like any of us are doubting how fast your car is.

But if you get a chance, why not

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I'm back! It was definitely a busy deployment.. I'm currently contemplating on either a FM stroker kit or a K-swap... I'll have to see some more into the GTA rules and see what set-up/class I would be most competitive in. I'm thinking of RWD Limited.. I really don't want to put the stock door panals, center console, radio and speakers back in if I don't have to.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I wouldn't spend a penny on an FM stroker kit. A TSE bottom end will be just as strong with far less of a cost.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

Ecotec is a much cheaper and strong option. Can go turn and make a ton of power or stay NA and just get some good track time.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Pretty sure if he's considering FM stroker or Kswap he's not looking for the cheapest way to a reliable ~200whp.

I vote K, but mostly just cuz that's what I wanna do.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

As, I see you aren't aware of the magic of the Ecotec and the build book GM published in the early 2000s. There is a book laying out the entire set of parts for a 325Hp NA Ecotec, a 500 Hp Turbo Drift version, an 850Hp Turbo Drag engine, and 1450Hp Turbo Drag engine. You get more options, you get an upgrade path, you get cheaply available parts, all on a lightweight and highly available platform.

I suggested it because you can make more power on Ecotec vs FM Stroker or Kswap AND it's cheaper to do it. It's also reliable, well proven, etc. Wasn't just suggesting some budget BS.

Also, this is pretty straightforward: https://www.ecotecmiata.ca/ .

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Yeah and the swap sucks every appendage you can possibly think of, and doesn't have an off the shelf option for a transmission that will hold any more power than a turbo BP will generate.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Indeed, I am aware of the Ecotec's potential. But tell me how many people out there are familiar with doing those sorts of builds in a Miata, vs the number of people out there familiar with doing Kswap builds in a Miata.

Magic of the ecotec... gimme a break

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

Last I checked the Honda Trans was weak too. Caddy/Solstice Trans fits and holds more power but not much more. All choices lead to a custom trans setup for serious power.

I think the tide will turn towards Ecotec b/c of reliability, cost/HP, availability, etc. A factory effort that breaks down build levels for a 300HP NA Motor to a 1450HP Drag motor is badass, especially for the mid 2000s. Roll your eyes all you want, they stepped the game forward.

Either way, I'd personally choose an all aluminum motor like the Ecotec or K vs the BP to drop some weight on the nose.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Ah, I see you aren't aware of the magic BMW transmission swap currently available through KMiata....

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Honda trans? What?

I see people talk about 300hp n/a Ecotecs all the time. We see the MT Motorsport guys parade around their awesome dyno charts.

Nobody actually gets there.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

High HP turbo ecotecs are much more common as one might readily intuit.

I had seen that, forgot about it. If it fits the K, it will fit the Ecotec. Functionally we are talking about two I4 engines that have good power potential, are reliable, and work well. My loyalty is to the best cost per HP platform. Currently, the Ecotec wins that equation from a lowly 160HP to 1000+HP. Hence my response. Maybe that will change. I responded because poorly describes the use case for the two swaps and sells the Ecotec short when it's a strong option up to 1000+HP. I think the K engine is great and Kswap a strong option. Just not worth 2x compared to an equally competent platform that has good power potential well past the 200whp range.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

However, you're still assuming the swap parts are of comparable quality, which, based on anecdotal evidence, does not seem to be the case.

I could be wrong about that, but I don't think so.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Ecotec feels and sounds like a truck engine.

I'm pretty sure he's looking for something that's a little bit more upscale.

vtjballeng

iTrader: (1)

I'm not. The Kswap kit is absolutely nicer and higher quality. The ecotec kit is newer and is being tested thoroughly in crapcan endurance racing and has proven robust. It's already had some design iterations and is currently a fairly stable design. A team I've worked with just did this swap fairly quickly and was happy with the kit. The Kswap setup is a beautiful kit and clearly has great results.

LOL. Needs MOAR chrome bro. All that power is too lowbrow. I've heard that logic before and sell to that market group. I respect that position. I don't personally associate it with the Miata crowd. But that's cool. The other options are great if you really want the things the Kswap offers like beauty & sound. Those have value to most but isn't a focus for me.

FrankB

iTrader: (4)

I think you guys forgot I am already putting out 340whp at 26psi and track the car on 18psi somewhere around 300whp. GTA classing is another issue as well for me to take into account i don't want to go high and to the right and end up in an Unlimited Class where I might as well just not show up on race day. I'm wavering between RWD Street and RWD Limited. Perhaps the best option is what I have at the moment, i don't know. I like the idea of keeping the same power I currently have on a less modified platform from a reliability standpoint. I feel that my setup is pushing the limits but maybe I'm wrong.