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He's talking about an air oil separator drain not turbo.
Temp sensor will fit the subframe above the drain hole, just be sure there's no rib or interference behind where you drill for that oem baffle plate
oil separator should be above oil in the sump too. preferably shielded from oil being flung around from the crankshaft. similar to how the 1.6's have it set up in the GTX blocks (and provisions in the 1.6) there is a channel where the breather is above oil (in the block, so obvious) but its totally shielded from the oil being 2" up or so that baffle.
The correct method for running a catch can is one hose from the driver's side port only. The passenger side (PCV) port should be plugged or capped entirely.
I have found that VVT motors are prone to liquid blowby from the driver's side port for some reason. The internal baffling is a little different on the VVT valve covers than it is on the 94-97 or 99-00s. It's manageable at lower power levels with a catch can (<300whp) but at high power levels or under high cornering forces, you need something more substantial. Not sure exactly why this is, but I've seen it on several different cars and engines, and it's a VVT-specific issue. I've successfully dealt with it by using a Radium AOS plumbed back into the oil pan.
Originally Posted by Savington
Nope. Drain it below oil level or you've just created another large orifice for blowby to escape, and no oil will actually drain. The drain needs to be submerged in oil at all times (even under high cornering loads), or you need to run a check valve to prevent blowby flowing up the drain when the oil sloshes in the pan. The MSM does the former, I do the latter on my AOS installs.
The first it what sav suggested, then the second is his reply after i asked for verification on draining above oil level that was his response. I thought i was supposed to drain above oil level too.
"In the AOS applications we have worked with, we are always draining above the oil level and it has worked very well. No check valve because we want oil to drain freely into the engine and we also want the engine to be able to vent through that same line."
So my AOS drain will be a direct mirror of where the turbo drain is and the temp sensor will go above the oil pan drain.
if your engine has so much blow-by that oil cant get down to your oil pan, use both sides of the cam cover to the catch can with the third to the oil pan. beyond that its hose/fitting size or maybe your engine has too much blowby.
I prefer a "closed" system for smell in street cars. so I wouldn't run an open filter element on my catch can (its a scent thing for me, especially with a convertible car) recirc the filter spot on a catch can to the pre-turbo inlet pipe IMHO. when your getting high blow-by (under high engine load) your turbo will suck and burn all of those fumes.
Look at turbo car dyno videos - specifically cars with atmospheric catch cans and you can see the catch can vent spewing a **** ton of vapors - its a visible amount.
Not everyone will agree with me, but I will never run an atmospheric can on a street car like this one again.
if your engine has so much blow-by that oil cant get down to your oil pan, use both sides of the cam cover to the catch can with the third to the oil pan. beyond that its hose/fitting size or maybe your engine has too much blowby.
I prefer a "closed" system for smell in street cars. so I wouldn't run an open filter element on my catch can (its a scent thing for me, especially with a convertible car) recirc the filter spot on a catch can to the pre-turbo inlet pipe IMHO. when your getting high blow-by (under high engine load) your turbo will suck and burn all of those fumes.
Look at turbo car dyno videos - specifically cars with atmospheric catch cans and you can see the catch can vent spewing a **** ton of vapors - its a visible amount.
Not everyone will agree with me, but I will never run an atmospheric can on a street car like this one again.
In theory the motor should have zero blow by since its only half built. (Its for the one you are building the manifold for) Im just welding bungs into the pan so i dont have to revisit it in the future. This is the plumbing schematic for the catch can off their website. Obviously not a bp engine.z
Sorry for the shitty cell phone pics but got the master and prop valve plumed up. Ill probably end up making my own hard lines in the future. Im still not super happy how the lines turned out. Then lastly i got the fan controller temp sensor installed in the water neck. I used a M16x1.5 Parker hex plug then drilled about half way through it and tapped a #6-32 hole for the derale sensor. This one i am happy with how it turned out.
Just a short update. Not much has happened the last couple weeks and not much will happen the next few months due to starting the fire academy this week. Sold the bride replica seats and the racequip harnesses today. Plan to send some money to another member on here for a pair of Schroth Profi II harnesses then order up a OMP TRS-E for the passenger seat in the next couple days as well as a BFW spoiler.
Sorry for the shitty cell phone pics but got the master and prop valve plumed up. Ill probably end up making my own hard lines in the future. Im still not super happy how the lines turned out. Then lastly i got the fan controller temp sensor installed in the water neck. I used a M16x1.5 Parker hex plug then drilled about half way through it and tapped a #6-32 hole for the derale sensor. This one i am happy with how it turned out.
I am planning to run one. But last summer I didn't have one and I added a bigger fan (old fan cooled fine but mount broke) so I am going to run without one for a while to establish a data point. I will still have the reroute ready to go on.
What are your guys general opinions of hardtop brackets. A guy down the street has a pair of garage star ones i can have if I want them. Right now i have zip ties holding the latches shut all the time dont judge.
They are fully adjusted. Might try the locking caps from FM. Also whats everyone's opinion on an OMP TRS-E as a passenger seat to pair with an OMP WRC-R
Last edited by matrussell122; 03-12-2018 at 10:06 AM.
At some point over the winter I must have pulled the wires out of my IAT sensor and need to re wire it. In efforts to make it as clean as possible should I wire it directly to the megasquirt and bypass all oem wiring and use a deutsch connector, or Just push into the afm plug like before?
02-07-2018, 08:43 AM
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