|
Ok so after much review, I think I have figured out my turbo path. please comment on this list if anything is lacking or just stupid. So initially was in love with the idea of a CARB BEGI kit. After some research, BEGI can eat a dick and I'm going to put my own thing together. 1. Borg Warner EFR 6258 /w T25 inlet $1500 2. Flyin Miata turbo exhaust mani or TSE. Need to do a little more research. Leaning towards TSE for fitment ease. 3. Turbo smart 2 port WG actuator 4 Turbo Smart boost solenoid 5 Boost controller:TBD 6. Megasquirt Basic 3 by Rev: Owned 7 Jackson racing radiator or CSF supermiata. Is the integrated oil cooler worth it? 8. Intercooler: TBD might diy it. Work in an HAVC shop that buys coils and has welding capabilities. If not then I need to figure out what kind of discount I can get from my distributor friend. 9 Qmax coolant reroute kit. Owned and in my garage waiting to be installed. 10 Oil and water lines for turbo will be a bent stainless DIY affair. Have access to wholesale discounts on fittings and tubing and hose crimping hydraulic shop. Thinking I'm going with the flying miata port that goes in the oil pressure sensor port for high pressure source. 11 Flowforce injector Volume TBD 12 fuel pressure reg TBD. More research. 13. Fuel pump TBD more research 14. Downpipe and mid pipe with be a custom mandrel bent affair. Leaning toward vband. I will be keeping my cat as I am a fucked up gross dirty hippie. I'm I'm missing a few things but this is where I'm at. Feel free to comment or question my choices Sometime in the far away future 15. Upgraded rods and supertech 9:1 Pistons so I can crank the boost to the moon. 16. BMW transmission so the car won't explode. |
1. Borg Warner EFR 6258 /w T25 inlet $1500 2. Flyin Miata turbo exhaust mani or TSE. Need to do a little more research. Leaning towards TSE for fitment ease. FM manifold + exhaust not compatible with EFR 6258; should also consider MKTurbo and Kraken options. : 7 Jackson racing radiator or CSF supermiata. Is the integrated oil cooler worth it? I'd question how degraded the radiator's performance becomes with an integrated oil cooler, there's less surface area exposed to incoming air that's already being pre-heated by the intercooler. On a N/A car it would probably be OK. : 8. Intercooler: TBD might diy it. Work in an HAVC shop that buys coils and has welding capabilities. If not then I need to figure out what kind of discount I can get from my distributor friend. I've got the Fab9 350hp intercooler - it has mounting tabs already fitted which made installation dead-easy. I also had an IAT bung welded to the coldside tank. : 10 Oil and water lines for turbo will be a bent stainless DIY affair. Have access to wholesale discounts on fittings and tubing and hose crimping hydraulic shop. Thinking I'm going with the flying miata port that goes in the oil pressure : Save yourself the hassle and time, buy the TSE lines if you buy the TSE manifold, or the MKTurbo lines if you buy the MKTurbo kit. : 15. Upgraded rods and supertech 9:1 Pistons so I can crank the boost to the moon. Read more, you want 8.6:1 pistons |
Thank you sir. I will narrow my research parameters and learn some more. |
I would go Kraken with the efr and 3 inch exhaust because you'll get the full kit from him. If you want to go baller and get TSE know that you're going to have to get an exhaust made. Kraken exhaust comes with a race cat as well.
|
Lokiel: Enlighten me. Why is the FM mani not compatible? Fitment in the bay? |
Originally Posted by Michael Chandler
(Post 1467589)
Lokiel: Enlighten me. Why is the FM mani not compatible? Fitment in the bay? |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1467664)
Yes, spatial orientation doesn't play nice.
|
Originally Posted by Michael Chandler
(Post 1467589)
Lokiel: Enlighten me. Why is the FM mani not compatible? Fitment in the bay? |
Hiccup. Requesting Advise
So my engine is burning oil. I had a small leak that I fixed. I kept monitoring the level and while it slowed down it continued. I am pretty sure my PCV valve is gonzo. I'll test it later but I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or experience with replacement. Not just replacing the valve. That's easy. I mean is there anything else I should do inside the head to try and mitigate whatever the stopped valve may have left behind? I'm thinking of pulling the cover and using a brush and some brake cleaner on the valves and springs. Someone tell me if this is just stupid or what. |
Dat don't sound like a bright idea
|
If it is burning oil after replacement of the pcv valve it's either bad rings, valve stem seals (and maybe valve guides).
If it is leaking oil it could be aged seals and gaskets or bad piston rings (excessive blow by). There is no need to reengineer the PCV system on a stock motor. |
So it looks like I am going to have to rebuild my motor. It won't stop burning oil and my compression numbers were not so good. I would love to source all the parts from a single source. I was looking at the FM kit. Am I just setting money on fire here? I was planning on building up the bottom wend while I had it apart with some forged rods, 9:1 or 8.6:1 pistons, and some upgraded valve springs. I am going to search for a guide on matching the correct springs but if anyone has any resources please feel free to toss a comment. Also Changing my turbo kit selection to the FM1 kit for the CARB approval cause im scared of the po po.
|
New Leak Found
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...945eca70c.jpeg So I found a new leak. It is just above what I think is the VDO above the oil filter. I have attached pic. Please comment if you know what I’m looking at. The bolt head with the wet oil on it. I think i need to remove the air intake to get at it properly. Shouldn’t be too bad. |
Upon closer inspection this looks like my knock sensor. I am going to pull it and clean it up and see if I can get the leak to stop. |
Originally Posted by Michael Chandler
(Post 1499925)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...945eca70c.jpeg So I found a new leak. It is just above what I think is the VDO above the oil filter. I have attached pic. Please comment if you know what I’m looking at. The bolt head with the wet oil on it. I think i need to remove the air intake to get at it properly. Shouldn’t be too bad. |
OK. Good to know. There appears to be oil coming from somewhere. If you look at the oil pressure sensor the is some oil along the plastic housing. I guess I will just have to pull the intake mani and snoop around. Thanks to shuiend for saving my the trouble of removing the knock sensor. +:likecat:
|
Since my car is the only one I have ever worked on can someone tell me if this amount of oil in the head is normal?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a29407aa5c.jpgOil pooled on the intake cam side. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba23e57387.jpgexpanded view |
I don't understand what you're asking with that picture. Oil goes into the head via oil pressure when the motor is running. It drains into the oil pump when the motor is off. All that's left is the bit of oil that's coating things and pooled in a few areas.
Did you try a check valve in line with the PCV? |
I was just wondering if this amount of oil sitting in the head was normal. That's all. You confirmed that yes in fact it is. So the great oil leak hunt continues. On to the front crank and cam seals!
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:00 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands